Do USB Audio Cables Make A Difference?

[stefanovesa]

Packet or data error of any kind is exceptionally rare across wide range of cables and DACs I have tested. It is a total non-issue and when it is, as I showed, the audible effects are very clear. It is *never* a fidelity issue.

BTW, if you want wonderful USB cables at bargain price, I highly recommend the AmazonBasic one: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH11KIK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

View attachment 17945​

It costs only $5 in US with shipping. It has a great quality feel with rather flexible cable. It is my favorite and well above the free one you get included in DAC and equipment boxes.

Sadly, the USB-C version is completely different and disappointing in feel. So don't get that one.

I'm sorry if I resume this thread. Anyone kwows which gauge are these cables? I guess AWG 28 for data and AWG 24 for power but I cannot find anywhere.
Thanks

 

[Julf]

I'm sorry if I resume this thread. Anyone kwows which gauge are these cables? I guess AWG 28 for data and AWG 24 for power but I cannot find anywhere.
Thanks

Enough to carry the needed current. Why do you want to know?

 

[stefanovesa]

Enough to carry the needed current. Why do you want to know?

I need a 3 feet cable to connect my laptop to Intona USB Isolator. At the far side there is a RME ADI-2 PRo FS and I'm figuring if this cable can supply enough power to feed the Isolator. According the Intona specs the isolator drains 0.4 A and works with minimum 4.6 V. AWG 24 for the cable power pair seems OK considering voltage drop, so I asked. I saw that many 3 feet USB cables often use much tiny power lines, e.g AWG 26 or 28, which can barely suffice.

 

[Keith_W]

Timely bump. I have found that it's not the cable that matters (apart from the length), but the connectors! I have a few USB cables that no longer charge or connect properly. Eventually the cables develop kinks near the connectors and only make contact when they are jiggled a bit or held in a very specific way. If you move the cable, you lose the connection and you have to start again.

Incredibly frustrating. And this was an expensive Belkin USB-C cable that I selected because of its "build quality".

 

[Roland68]

I'm sorry if I resume this thread. Anyone kwows which gauge are these cables? I guess AWG 28 for data and AWG 24 for power but I cannot find anywhere.
Thanks

Unfortunately, such specifications are usually not worth the paper they're written on. I once converted several cables with different connectors, and the cross-section was thinner than stated.
I recommend the high-quality USB 2.0 cables from the tried-and-tested manufacturers Lindy, Anthra Line, or Cromo Line. Cross-section 27/25 AWG

 

[Sokel]

Timely bump. I have found that it's not the cable that matters (apart from the length), but the connectors! I have a few USB cables that no longer charge or connect properly. Eventually the cables develop kinks near the connectors and only make contact when they are jiggled a bit or held in a very specific way. If you move the cable, you lose the connection and you have to start again.

Incredibly frustrating. And this was an expensive Belkin USB-C cable that I selected because of its "build quality".

All certified USB cables state their useful lifetime (in mating cycles) .

 

[Julf]

I need a 3 feet cable to connect my laptop to Intona USB Isolator. At the far side there is a RME ADI-2 PRo FS and I'm figuring if this cable can supply enough power to feed the Isolator. According the Intona specs the isolator drains 0.4 A and works with minimum 4.6 V. AWG 24 for the cable power pair seems OK considering voltage drop, so I asked. I saw that many 3 feet USB cables often use much tiny power lines, e.g AWG 26 or 28, which can barely suffice.

USB 1.0 and 2.0 is specified for 500 mA, USB 3.0 is 900 mA, so if you want to be sure, go for a USB 3.0 certified cable.

 

[Roland68]

USB 1.0 and 2.0 is specified for 500 mA, USB 3.0 is 900 mA, so if you want to be sure, go for a USB 3.0 certified cable.

This is unfortunately bad advice, as suitable cables for DACs with USB B connectors are only available for USB 2.0.

For DACs with USB C connectors, I strongly advise against using anything other than genuine USB 2.0 cables. I have been unable to get various DACs to work with many higher-spec USB C cables, even expensive ones.

 

[stefanovesa]

This is unfortunately bad advice, as suitable cables for DACs with USB B connectors are only available for USB 2.0.

For DACs with USB C connectors, I strongly advise against using anything other than genuine USB 2.0 cables. I have been unable to get various DACs to work with many higher-spec USB C cables, even expensive ones.

Do you use a USB-B/USB-C adapter at the DAC side or a USB-A <->USB-C cable?

 

[Roland68]

Do you use a USB-B/USB-C adapter at the DAC side or a USB-A <->USB-C cable?

I only use cables. Too often, I have problems with cheap adapters, and there's hardly any way to identify high-quality adapters.
When I do use adapters, they're usually self-soldered.
With these cables, the difference between a high-quality adapter and the cable is usually so small that it's not worth it.

 

[Julf]

This is unfortunately bad advice, as suitable cables for DACs with USB B connectors are only available for USB 2.0.

Fortunately the world seems to be moving to USB C.

 

[Roland68]

Fortunately the world seems to be moving to USB C.

USB-C is just a connector and has nothing to do with USB standards.
99.x% of all DACs have a USB interface that supports up to USB 2.0, regardless of whether the connector is USB-B, Mini-B, Micro-B, or C.

At the moment, I don't see any move to convert DACs to USB 3.x, 4.x, or Thunderbolt.
And what would be the problem with that?
There's no speed issue with DACs, and USB-A and USB-B connectors are many times more durable than USB-C.

 

[Julf]

USB-C is just a connector and has nothing to do with USB standards.

I was responding to your:

This is unfortunately bad advice, as suitable cables for DACs with USB B connectors are only available for USB 2.0.

For DACs with USB C connectors, I strongly advise against using anything other than genuine USB 2.0 cables. I have been unable to get various DACs to work with many higher-spec USB C cables, even expensive ones.

 

[Roland68]

I was responding to your:

Exactly, and that's why I wrote the answer, so you and everyone else have this information.
USB-C is just a connector and not a USB standard, even though it's colloquially used that way. USB standards include 1.x, 2.0, 3.x, 4.x, and I would include Thunderbolt as well.

This misunderstanding has also made it into Wikipedia's description:
"USB-C is a term that is often misunderstood, especially when it comes to the speed and performance provided by this connector. Many users believe that a USB-C connector automatically enables fast data transfers or high charging performance. In reality, however, USB-C only describes the physical form of the connector—how it looks and how it connects—not the actual speed or performance that can be achieved."

So, common DACs = USB 2.0, even if it's a USB-C connector.

 

[Julf]

Exactly, and that's why I wrote the answer, so you and everyone else have this information.
USB-C is just a connector and not a USB standard, even though it's colloquially used that way. USB standards include 1.x, 2.0, 3.x, 4.x, and I would include Thunderbolt as well.

This misunderstanding has also made it into Wikipedia's description:
"USB-C is a term that is often misunderstood, especially when it comes to the speed and performance provided by this connector. Many users believe that a USB-C connector automatically enables fast data transfers or high charging performance. In reality, however, USB-C only describes the physical form of the connector—how it looks and how it connects—not the actual speed or performance that can be achieved."

So, common DACs = USB 2.0, even if it's a USB-C connector.

OK, so what was my "bad advice"?

 

[Roland68]

OK, so what was my "bad advice"?

USB 3.0 cables are not available for DACs with USB B connectors. Not everyone reading this is knowledgeable and might buy the wrong thing.

USB 3.x and 4.x cables with USB C connectors can contain ICs that can cause problems with DACs, even leading to the DAC not being recognized.
I have several perfectly functioning USB 3.x and 4.x cables here that don't recognize a DAC even at 1m in length. With USB 2.0 cables, there was no problem even at 3m in length. The same problem occurred many times among my friends and acquaintances.

This shouldn't be a discussion, just a note. Everyone is free to decide whether to use this information and experience or ignore it.

 

[Julf]

USB 3.0 cables are not available for DACs with USB B connectors. Not everyone reading this is knowledgeable and might buy the wrong thing.

USB 3.x and 4.x cables with USB C connectors can contain ICs that can cause problems with DACs, even leading to the DAC not being recognized.
I have several perfectly functioning USB 3.x and 4.x cables here that don't recognize a DAC even at 1m in length. With USB 2.0 cables, there was no problem even at 3m in length. The same problem occurred many times among my friends and acquaintances.

This shouldn't be a discussion, just a note. Everyone is free to decide whether to use this information and experience or ignore it.

You made it a discussion by claiming what I said was bad advice.

 

[rcstevensonaz]

With these cables, the difference between a high-quality adapter and the cable is usually so small that it's not worth it.

I'm not sure exactly what you meant by that. Are you saying the Lindy Cables (Anthra, Cromo, etc.) use high-quality adapters but are not worth it? Or that Lindy cables are worth it even though they do not have high-quality adapters? Or something else?

One other quick note on the Lindy Electronics cables for USB: from what I've read on their web site, the only difference between the lower cost Anthra (Grey) and the more expensive Chromo line is the bling factor. If the cable will be out of view, get the Anthra. If the cable will be visible in a professional setting, get the Chromo because it looks better.

Based on very positive reviews from the RME crowd, all of my USB cables now are the Lindy Anthra line (since I don't need them to look fancy), purchased via Amazon. Here are links for each line:

• https://lindy.com/en/technology/anthra-line/#anthra-line
• https://lindy.com/en/technology/cromo-line/#cromo-line

 

[watchnerd]

I'm not sure exactly what you meant by that. Are you saying the Lindy Cables (Anthra, Cromo, etc.) use high-quality adapters but are not worth it? Or that Lindy cables are worth it even though they do not have high-quality adapters? Or something else?

One other quick note on the Lindy Electronics cables for USB: from what I've read on their web site, the only difference between the lower cost Anthra (Grey) and the more expensive Chromo line is the bling factor. If the cable will be out of view, get the Anthra. If the cable will be visible in a professional setting, get the Chromo because it looks better.

Based on very positive reviews from the RME crowd, all of my USB cables now are the Lindy Anthra line (since I don't need them to look fancy), purchased via Amazon. Here are links for each line:

• https://lindy.com/en/technology/anthra-line/#anthra-line
• https://lindy.com/en/technology/cromo-line/#cromo-line

What benefit am I supposed to be getting out of a $30 USB cable when it comes to audio?

 

[khaliss]

USB cables carry digital signal (1s & 0s)... it doesn't matter how expensive (or cheap) the cable is, as long as it can transmit digital signal reliably (without errors), then pretty much once a DAC converts digital signal to analog, it's going to be the same exact sound.