In scientific writing the term error does not usually imply a mistake (eg by the designer in this case). Error is the difference (calculated by subtraction) between a measured value and a hypothetical ideal target. Or the difference between a prediction and the actual result. In curve fitting, for example, it is common to calculate the SSE (sum of squared errors) as a measure of GOF (goodness of fit).
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DIYRM / Scott Hinson Multiple Entry Horn build
- Thread starter HiMu
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In scientific writing the term error does not usually imply a mistake (eg by the designer in this case). Error is the difference (calculated by subtraction) between a measured value and a hypothetical ideal target. Or the difference between a prediction and the actual result. In curve fitting, for example, it is common to calculate the SSE (sum of squared errors) as a measure of GOF (goodness of fit).
a4eaudio
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Yes, I know. But that is not how the term " directivity error" is used, or at least I have never seen it used that way on ASR.
To me, that term is more apt for, say, a woofer and tweeter with significantly different directivity near their crossover point.
Fundamentally, the "waistbanding" effect in question is due to diffraction.
- Thread Starter
- #25
Solana v2.0 was released a couple of days ago.
Solana Multiple Entry Waveguide DIY Plans — JW Sound
Instruction package with models for 3d printing and assembling the Solana waveguide module.
www.jwsound.live
I'm building three of Scott's MEH right now and am curious how you finished the horn section? Did you smooth the joint sections or maybe you didn't have to?
- Thread Starter
- #27
Near the throat adapter I applied epoxy repair putty to the corners and tried to follow the oblate spheroid to conical shape as smoothly as possible, and only light filling for small gaps on the horn corners.
Epoxy putty -> sanding block and a piece of L-shaped rounded corner trim molding, wrapped with a piece of sanding mesh to get into the corners -> repeat a few times.
When applying the epoxy putty, attach the throat adapter and put some cling film or other plastic between the horn and adapter. That way you can stuff the epoxy between the seam and protect the adapter part. Regular woodwork filler putty won't be able to hold on to the tight edge between the horn-adapter transition and will most likely chip off, happens sometimes with the epoxy also. (photo 2)
When doing this stage of the build, it's good to have a movable table/work light that you can shine from behind. Be careful no to sand the throat adapter!
The wood filler that I had for smoothing out surface scratches was absolute rubbish quality and was the main reason I had to re-paint these. When using the epoxy putty pay attention to the paint primer being suitable for that material, it's a serious pain the rear to strip paint from these. I'd avoid painting over the t-nuts, because when you install the woofers and tighten the bolts, it will probably crack the paint/lacquer around those.
Re-painted and enclosure lacquered. I'm not happy with that color, it cured to look like "public park trash can green", a lot different than the test pieces I made. And the paint already cracked, but now I can try to fix it with kintsukuroi. Won't be re-painting these ever again without a proper spray booth.
Biblob
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Looks really good! And great guide, well done!Solana v2.0 was released a couple of days ago.
Solana Multiple Entry Waveguide DIY Plans — JW Sound
Instruction package with models for 3d printing and assembling the Solana waveguide module.
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