DIY while stuck at home

[Rick Sykora]

just a sub for music and I'm not really into having the music punch me in the chest so just something to pick up the lows that the stand speakers don't do at low to moderate volume levels

the prices at speakerhardware.com are really good.

Have you considered some stand subwoofers? Like this Babgy design... https://meniscusaudio.com/product/kairos-woofer-module-full-kit-pair/

If the premise works, I have a couple of comparable designs that are less expensive. It does give the advantage of 2 subwoofers without taking much additional space.

 

[Trdat]

["Winkleswizard, post: 389528, member: 12465"]Given the tuning, not surprised that many would like the Overnight Sensations apparent bass. The only thing is that the are not very sensitive and run against their excursion limit below about 25 watts (also the woofer power limit). If your room is smaller and do not push them much, probably fine. The Bassbox modeling does show a nasty resonance peak around 900 Hz, so if not resolved by internal foam, cutting a couple of inches from the port eliminates.

What am I looking at in box modelling software for resonances? I use Winisd and sometimes Vituixcad

The Amiga's bass has a shallower bass rolloff but slightly worse group delay. Its advantage is power handling as it goes down to 25 Hz at 25 watts. So if you have the power, you can eq it and get comparable bass to the OS without the woofer.

When I modelled the Dayton Rs woofer in Winisd it had a bump towards the low end of the frequency curve. When you say shallower roll off do you mean compared to the OV or it had a shallow roll off?

Btw. with the mods I suggested in the C-note build thread, it splits the difference in bass performance between the Carmody designs and probably has a better directivity than the Carmody designs. Hard to say as they do not post the any off-axis performance for them. I know this is may sound harsh but they are older designs and perhaps not a design priority. [/QUOTE]

Great, C-note is next. Any other kits you can recommend that might be really good at great prices?

Ill check out the thread and look for your suggestions for mods.

 

[Rick Sykora]

What am I looking at in box modelling software for resonances? I use Winisd and sometimes Vituixcad



When I modelled the Dayton Rs woofer in Winisd it had a bump towards the low end of the frequency curve. When you say shallower roll off do you mean compared to the OV or it had a shallow roll off?

Btw. with the mods I suggested in the C-note build thread, it splits the difference in bass performance between the Carmody designs and probably has a better directivity than the Carmody designs. Hard to say as they do not post the any off-axis performance for them. I know this is may sound harsh but they are older designs and perhaps not a design priority.

Great, C-note is next. Any other kits you can recommend that might be really good at great prices?

Ill check out the thread and look for your suggestions for mods.[/QUOTE]

Yes, in Bassbox, the normalized response for the Amiga is a longer and shallower slope Vs the OS.

For the forum, Bagby’s Kairos is my target. But is a lot more cash. For a nice step up from the bargain basement, I like his Mandolin: https://meniscusaudio.com/product/mandolin-loudspeaker-kit/

Given you are in Europe, @Juhazi and some others may have some better values in EU.

 

[dwkdnvr]

Here's one I finished up recently, a simple kitchen table flatpack build:

View attachment 54905

I'll echo the other posters questions for details on this. I actually have a pair of those Infinity drivers (or similar - there are single and dual voice coil versions), but hadn't seen a flat-pack for them. They seem to want about 3 cu ft ported. There is the I-clops build on AVSForum that I've seen, but I believe that was a slot port design.

 

[Trdat]

Given you are in Europe, @Juhazi and some others may have some better values in EU

.

Usually purchase from the US. But yeh, I always keep an eye out in Europe too...

 

[ta240]

Have you considered some stand subwoofers? Like this Babgy design... https://meniscusaudio.com/product/kairos-woofer-module-full-kit-pair/

If the premise works, I have a couple of comparable designs that are less expensive. It does give the advantage of 2 subwoofers without taking much additional space.

Thanks for the suggestion. Those look very interesting. I thought I had been through every page of meniscus audio but I hadn't seen those. I had somehow even overlooked the kairo speakers themselves. There are a lot of his designs that are very tempting. He gave so much to the DIY community and his contributions will outlive all of us.

 

[Prana Ferox]

That one is dynamite! Pictures downplay it's real size "I think"? Mind if I ask it's HxWxD size and weight?

It's the DIYSG Kuda 12 kit.

Here it is in service (low angle makes it look huge):

And here it is with a unfinished sealed Ultimax 10 in front of it (also a DIYSG kit.)

In practice it doesn't seem that big at all, although if I were doing a subwoofer crawl I'd put it on something with casters. It's the 1260w (single voice coil) driver, I got it for a steal ages ago and just haven't had a box to put it in. The Infinity drops in the precut baffle. My original intent was to run it off a BASH 300s plate amp but that went in the Ultimax box, so I just have a Speakon connection to the Crown in the pic. Eventually it will be driven by a Hypex NC500MP fed from a MiniDSP HD, when I get off my butt and finish putting the Hypex together. (Make sure you have DSP when not using a dedicated sub amp on a ported box, to add a high pass for driver protection.)

@dwkdnvr this driver also works well in sealed boxes like these, especially if you have more than one.

 

[Rick Sykora]

One more quick note on Amiga and comparable narrow baffle designs, suggest you mount the woofer with (left and right) screw holes as close to the baffle edge as you can. I have found edge resonances around 400 Hz when the longer section of the woofer edge is placed along the baffle sides.

I found this as I was prototyping with the Dayton RS180. It was convenient to center the woofer accurately with a screw hole at the top and bottom, but this leaves the part of the woofer edge (without a screw hole) resting along the sides of the baffle and can resonate.

Hope this helps!

 

[Mocs123]

What about a VBSS? Inexpensive PA460 driver, easy to drive (2 off a Behringer 1000D or up to 8 off a 3000D!), each one only uses 1 sheet of MDF or Baltic Birch.

 

[Bob-23]

On Rod Elliotts 'ESP'- definetely the world's best diy-audio-site - you find some more projects, from very simple to difficult, waiting for coming into material existence...
https://sound-au.com/index.html

 

[Wombat]

Do something with those old LPs:

https://recyclenation.com/2010/07/uses-old-vinyl-records/

 

[ta240]

Have you considered some stand subwoofers? Like this Babgy design... https://meniscusaudio.com/product/kairos-woofer-module-full-kit-pair/

If the premise works, I have a couple of comparable designs that are less expensive. It does give the advantage of 2 subwoofers without taking much additional space.

Those are getting more and more tempting. What are the designs you have?

 

[Rick Sykora]

Those are getting more and more tempting. What are the designs you have?

Mine use Dayton RS-225 in about a 1.3 cu. ft. vented enclosure.

Have Bassbox plans is you are interested...

 

[ta240]

Mine use Dayton RS-225 in about a 1.3 cu. ft. vented enclosure.

Have Bassbox plans is you are interested...

Definitely interested! Thanks.

 

[Rick Sykora]

Definitely interested! Thanks.

ok. Am attaching Bassbox plans and a pic of the bracing (not shown in plans).

I have upgraded the bracing over time. This pic is from woofer cutout looking down. First brace is just below the woofer. It is full size (originally was just across back of front baffle) The second was just above the port (across the back baffle). The plans reflect the original 2 brace approach...

 

[Alexanderc]

I was thinking about DIYing a couple acoustic panels this summer. I would love not to have to do full frames if possible. What are your thoughts on spray-gluing 48x24x4 (inch) pieces of rock wool board to a 48x24 piece of plywood, attaching mounting hardware to the plywood, and wrapping the whole thing with burlap (or something)?

 

[somebodyelse]

I was thinking about DIYing a couple acoustic panels this summer. I would love not to have to do full frames if possible. What are your thoughts on spray-gluing 48x24x4 (inch) pieces of rock wool board to a 48x24 piece of plywood, attaching mounting hardware to the plywood, and wrapping the whole thing with burlap (or something)?

If you would be mounting them without a gap behind anyway then the ply back won't make things any worse. The usual advice is to mount with an air gap between the panel and the wall so that the panel is effective to a lower frequency, in which case you'd want an open backed support.

http://downloads.bbc.co.uk/rd/pubs/reports/1982-08.pdf - has some figures for absorption characteristics of different thicknesses of mineral wool on a rigid backing, among other things.
https://www.bbc.co.uk/rd/search?query=modular+acoustic&submit= - other related research

 

[paddycrow]

If I did a subwoofer box I'd make it with a nice hardwood veneer, maybe an exotic. I would buy the driver and the amplifier. I think my preference would be a sealed enclosure, although I could do ported. I wouldn't make just one, I'd want a pair.

It seems Henry Ford's comment about the Model T applies to commercially available subs, you can get any color you want as long as it's black.

 

[Robh3606]

Cool thread! I have been building a passive M2 system. Had the drivers for a couple of years but could never find the time. I am using 2216Nd and instead of 2430 I am using a 476Mg as my compression driver on the M2 waveguides. Like all things even after you start it always take longer than you think. Started in April just getting veneer on my cabinets now. Always the worst part when you have to break things down to put on the window dressing.

Rob

 

[Sal1950]

Cool thread! I have been building a passive M2 system. Had the drivers for a couple of years but could never find the time.

Just be sure to post pictures and maybe some measurements in the Members area when you get er rollin! Would love to get the details on the complete rig and see what you've put together. I often start to get a woody over any talk of M2's, LOL. Best of luck with your expensive DIY project, it sounds super intriguing !