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DIY Subwoofer

FrantzM

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#1
Hi People
Frequentation of this ASR has made of me a cheap audiophile ... This is welcomed! I am pleased and am enjoying it... Great sound doesn't have to cost a lot. This needs to be repeated.. a lot... The hobby needs new blood and the mega-dollars nonsense which seems the norm in or hoby is not helping. end of rant

I am about to go multi-subs..

Would like to go with 4 subs

BEHRINGER iNUKE NU4-6000 $350 delivered
4 Dayton Audio UM18-22 18" Ultimax $1200 delivered
4 Sonotube 24 inch X 48 ?? Price $300 Total ?? Delivered
Mini-DSP with Acourate or Dirac to smooth out things DDRC-24 $400
Wire and cables $200 (Ok Yeah!! :D)
How to do these subs ( don't have a clue)

a serious subwoofing system for $3000

Am I on the right path?
How difficult is it to build a sonotube -based sealed subwoofer? Better alternatives ideas? Recomendations?

My woodworking skills are non-existent... Don't care about learning these today ...
need to have a good sounding system put together in he shortest amount of time...

Can you help? guide? Advise?
 
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SIY

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#2
Are you thinking floor firing?

If you haven't read Nelson Pass's article on El Pipe-O, I'd highly recommend it.
 

FrantzM

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#3
Are you thinking floor firing?

If you haven't read Nelson Pass's article on El Pipe-O, I'd highly recommend it.
I will google it ... Looking for the simplest way to accomplish a world-beating sub system

The sonotube -based subs looked like the simplest way .. Worried a bit about untamed vibrations but it seems that stuffing will help...sonotubes are easily available at Home Depots, Lowe and equivalent ..
I need to keep woodworking to minimum in this project ... thus the Sonotube ...
 

jhaider

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#5
A few thoughts.

First, Sonotubes are really hard to make look nice in a room, if that's an issue. I also think the endcaps are hard to cut consistently. Look at the flat packs from DIY Sound Group as an easier alternative.

Second, you probably don't need 4 18s unless your house is completely open. In retrospect, my multisub system (an 18, a 15, a dual-opposed 12, and a Tymphany LAT-700, processed and powered by a Crown DCI4|1250n) is overkill. If it all burned down, I would probably just do dual-opposed 12s or 10s all around.

Third, if 18s, why UM18? Their Reference 18 flies under the radar, but a speaker engineer from a different company once told me that we had measured them on a Klippel and was so impressed he incorporated them into his own system.

Fourth, fan noise. If you can't place the amp outside of the room, go with consumer audio amplifiers.

Fifth, the DDRC-24 is overkill. For subs I don't even see any advantage to the MiniDSP 2x4HD over the original 2x4. Their best product to power pro amps driving 4 or fewer subwoofers, regardless of price, is probably the Balanced 2x4.
 

hvbias

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#7
Second, you probably don't need 4 18s unless your house is completely open. In retrospect, my multisub system (an 18, a 15, a dual-opposed 12, and a Tymphany LAT-700, processed and powered by a Crown DCI4|1250n) is overkill. If it all burned down, I would probably just do dual-opposed 12s or 10s all around.
More drivers will theoretically mean less excursion which will mean less distortion, lets assume all things being equal and the design(s) in question are sound. That's why I'm personally attracted to large tower subs to be used up to ~100 hz on either side of my speaker (not counting the subs used for smoothing bass response).
 

Sal1950

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#8
Frequentation of this ASR has made of me a cheap audiophile ... This is welcomed! I am pleased and am enjoying it... Great sound doesn't have to cost a lot. This needs to be repeated.. a lot... The hobby needs new blood and the mega-dollars nonsense which seems the norm in or hoby is not helping. end of rant
Hip hip, hooray!
First, Sonotubes are really hard to make look nice in a room, if that's an issue. I also think the endcaps are hard to cut consistently
Not necessarily. HSU Research was producing these Sonotube based subs for years. Cover the tube with a stretchy nylon sock and how hard can it be to cut a circular endcap?. I owned a pair of the 7' tall HRSW12's for many years, produced awesome deep bass at a very inexpensive cost.

 

jhaider

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#9
Not necessarily. HSU Research was producing these Sonotube based subs for years. Cover the tube with a stretchy nylon sock and how hard can it be to cut a circular endcap?. I owned a pair of the 7' tall HRSW12's for many years, produced awesome deep bass at a very inexpensive cost.
The old Hsus were really good subs. But cutting smooth, clean circular endcaps is not trivial for a novice woodworker.

The other thing that's not trivial to get right is a smooth, level cut on the Sonotube itself.
 

Blumlein 88

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#10
Well if you are okay with $3000 I might suggest an off the shelve solution.
http://www.rythmikaudio.com/F12-300.html

The F12 300. $750 each or $3000 for 4 (maybe they'll give you a little discount for 4).

These are servo controlled subs and they are about the best such things I have had hands on. The servo control they use really makes them perform.

So depending upon your perspective you either miss out on the DIY experience or avoid it. :eek:
 
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#11

DonH56

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#12
Rythmik subs are also available as kits; you build the box, they provide driver and servo amp. I have four F12's in my media room, and Dr. Brian Ding (the man behind Rythmik) is quite a guy (and we have similar day jobs).
 

FrantzM

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#13
I am on a quest to build the ... Bucket subs .. Just purchased four drivers for about $250 including shipping.
I will use:
A Behringer iNuke-NU4-6000 to power 4 of those about $350
A miniDSP 2 X 4 for $105
REW with a unimik I already have.. Learning should be fun ...

I have four (4) five-gallons paint buckets laying around...

Can <$700 of subwoofing be any good?
We'll see ...err.. hear.
 

FrantzM

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#14
Hi

Finally took the time this week-end to build my bucket subs. I don't know how they will sound, I haven't finished yet but I would advise anyone to try at least a pair for the sheer cheapness and cleverness of the solution. here what I bought

One 50 lb bag of Fast Setting Quickrete (50 Lbs CLick here)
Milwaukee Model # 49-56-0320 Hole Cutting Tool (Click Here)
Leaktites 5-Gallon Bucket (Shiny Black) Pack of 3 Click Here

You set the hole cutter at 7 inch for the 8 inch Peerless driver. You cut one nice clean hole on top actually at the bollom, which will become the top since you will put feet on the top and it will become the boottom in actual use :) You put the QuickRete up to 2 to 3 inches drop a glass of water per bucket, no mixing. Leave the darn thing alone for a few minutes they recommend 40 minutes. It sets and you have a solid non-resonant enclosure.

I wil finish the project this afternoon. So far this is ridiculously simple ... If it measure half as well as they say ....

I will hook each subs to the Behringer amp via a Transparent Audio XL Sub Kit (Click Here) about $1300 per cables ...I will use 3 subs for now so ...close to $5000 for the subwoofer cable loom. The Behringer cost about $400 and it is 2000 wpc... :p

This edit is , because I am waiting for the QuickRete to set. SInce I am your basic audiophile .. it is solid.. rock solid, conrcete solid but I need to know that all moisture is removed .. so I'll give it a few more hours ;)
 
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FrantzM

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#17
Your pulling our legs right Frantz?
Am I so Transparent in Audio? :D

This build is so easy but I can't continue the concrete is completely set, the feet mounted but I have to stop ... I lost my soldering iron and cannot find a place open where i could buy one. I will get one from a friend tomorrow ..:( and I was thinking about measuring tonight ... :{ : { :mad:

Frankly with everything available it shouldn't take 2 hours to build all 3 subs
 
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Sal1950

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#18
Frankly with everything available it shouldn't take 2 hours to build all 3 subs
That quickkete should be all set up in a very short time. I've used it filling buckets like that for a different reason that I can't discuss on a public forum :eek: but be assured it is solid and will sink very fast if dropped into a body of water, =================.
 

Wombat

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#19
Hi

Finally took the time this week-end to build my bucket subs. I don't know how they will sound, I haven't finished yet but I would advise anyone to try at least a pair for the sheer cheapness and cleverness of the solution. here what I bought

One 50 lb bag of Fast Setting Quickrete (50 Lbs CLick here)
Milwaukee Model # 49-56-0320 Hole Cutting Tool (Click Here)
Leaktites 5-Gallon Bucket (Shiny Black) Pack of 3 Click Here

You set the hole cutter at 7 inch for the 8 inch Peerless driver. You cut one nice clean hole on top actually at the bollom, which will become the top since you will put feet on the top and it will become the boottom in actual use :) You put the QuickRete up to 2 to 3 inches drop a glass of water per bucket, no mixing. Leave the darn thing alone for a few minutes they recommend 40 minutes. It sets and you have a solid non-resonant enclosure.

I wil finish the project this afternoon. So far this is ridiculously simple ... If it measure half as well as they say ....

I will hook each subs to the Behringer amp via a Transparent Audio XL Sub Kit (Click Here) about $1300 per cables ...I will use 3 subs for now so ...close to $5000 for the subwoofer cable loom. The Behringer cost about $400 and it is 2000 wpc... :p

This edit is , because I am waiting for the QuickRete to set. SInce I am your basic audiophile .. it is solid.. rock solid, conrcete solid but I need to know that all moisture is removed .. so I'll give it a few more hours ;)

For the DIYer: http://www.multimetoverseas.com/cop...r-type-copper-bus-bars-c11000-price-list.html
 

FrantzM

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#20
Hi

I have been able to complete the subwoofers.. They are properly wired and ....

I , now, can understand why some will not touch DIY with a 10 foot pole. It is a lot of work, especially when you are a neophyte and working alone. For starters, in my wild enthusiasm, I didn't have the tools and when I had them they weren't aligned and quickly available. I should know this: I am an IT contractor... yet when it came to DIY, I forgot everything I have learned.
Other things. Buckets differ in their construction. In some the walls are very solid and in other very flimsy. What I chose for my current project do not walls that are as solid as some paint buckets I have laying around. These are unfortunately white with the logo and brand and warning and writing all over. Those would need to be painted. I thought I was being clever with the all -black, somewhat fancy looking Leaktite black buckets. Better stick to paint bucket: Their walls need to be more resistant for stacking and carrying a very dense and heavy liquid lest they burst... with the result being a colorful mess :)
I also made sure of losing the USB cable for the miniDSP 2x4. it is one of those "old" cables with the mini USB connector. I have a plethora of micro USB cable but no other mini... :( so I played with the plugin but could not play a sound ...

Will get back at you and let you know .. This is fun!!
 

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