DIY Purifi Amp builds

[JimB]

Anyone looking to buy purifi modules without buffer? Checking if we can organize a GB. PM me if interested..

Do you mean 1ET400A, alone?

 

[cooldude]

Do you mean 1ET400A, alone?

Yes correct..i plan to use neurochrome buffer

 

[eduardw]

Any updates about the eval2 board. Are they more powerful then the eval1? Or only a mono version of the eval1.

 

[kukocz]

Any updates about the eval2 board. Are they more powerful then the eval1? Or only a mono version of the eval1.

Eval2 is the front-end for 1ET400A. Total power will be the same. That means the Eval2 is indeed mono version of Eval1

 

[eduardw]

Eval2 is the front-end for 1ET400A. Total power will be the same. That means the Eval2 is indeed mono version of Eval1

Thanks

 

[AndrewDavis]

Are we hoping for extra performance out if the monoblock version? The only benefit I can see (in my completely inexpert noob opinion) is the flexibility of a stand alone front end/amp combo.

 

[Matias]

So EVAL2 has 1 channel and EVAL1 has 2 channels. Great.

 

[zappa]

This really needs an IEC module with a fuse holder. I checked the Hypex PS datasheet and the soldered on board fuse is 12A slow blow? If running on 240VAC a lot of damage can occur before that blows!

What fuse do you recommend ?
(? 10A or 8A slow blow ?

 

[AndrewDavis]

So EVAL2 has 1 channel and EVAL1 has 2 channels. Great.

The world has gone mad! Eval2 means 1 channel, tall coffee means small... dogs and cats living together...mass hysteria!!!

 

[wineds]

What fuse do you recommend ?
(? 10A or 8A slow blow ?

Depends on your mains voltage. Here its nominally 240VAC and I use a 5A fast blow in the IEC mains input module. For 120VAC mains I would probably use a 10A fast blow. Its imperative a DIY build is fitted with an addition fuse if your mains voltage is in the range 220 to 240VAC.

 

[zappa]

Thanks wineds.
Main main voltage is 220-240VAC.
It's weird that HYPEX, being in Europe (240VAC), use 12A slow blow fuse

 

[wineds]

Thanks wineds.
Main main voltage is 220-240VAC.
It's weird that HYPEX, being in Europe (240VAC), use 12A slow blow fuse

I guess Hypex are building power supplies for the world. The on board soldered 12A fuse is intended as a last ditch fail safe which should never blow if an additional lower rated fuse is fitted to the build.

 

[JimB]

I guess Hypex are building power supplies for the world. The on board soldered 12A fuse is intended as a last ditch fail safe which should never blow if an additional lower rated fuse is fitted to the build.

Right. Worst case board protection. The system assembler should provide appropriate protection for their use case, as necessary. 5A on-board would mean it could not be used in countries with lower mains voltage. Their alternative would be to sell mains specific models.

 

[KarVi71]

I have also added a fuse to the mains supplies of my mono 1ET400's, as I considered 12A to be non functional with my ~230V mains (the fuse in the supply box for the house is 10A and could / would blow before the one in the SMPS).
So I added 2.5 A slow fuses, that have worked fine for now.

The highest inrush current (worst case) of the SMPS, as specified in the specs is a lot higher than that (37A), so I was unsure if 2.5 A fuses would last, but they havent blown (yet). The specs for the fuses is 50A for a few miliseconds, with up to double the rated value (5A) for up to 2 minutes.

 

[phoenixdogfan]

I'm not sure how important this is but as some may be aware on this site, I've been unable to get my Purifi amp built to work.

Thinking I must have made a wiring error on the aux cable, I ordered the new wiring kit from Ghent for the Purifi.

In looking at the aux cable carefully, I have found, I wired my cable exactly the same as Ghent, and both cables exhibit continuity at each any every connection.

Ditto the main power cable.

Looking at the cable leading from the mains voltage plug to J2 is another matter. Note the picture. The original IEC cable set which came with the 300mm Ghent NC 400 case is on the left and the new cable I just received is on the right.

There exists only one way to plug into J2. With the original cable my set up looks like this:

Will this make a difference? Anyone know whether this is the root cause of my problem? Would it be fixable just by substituting the new cable or have I damaged the SMPS? Or am I just barking up the wrong tree?

Would appreciate the input. Ghent has the exact same wiring diagram for the plug for the new Purifi Case as he had for the 300mm NC 400 case, and Hypex did not even indicate which pin was which on J2 in their documentation, so I don;t see how I could have known. The thing only plugs in one way. Would be nice to know if I've maybe stumbled upon something after all these months.

 

[MicroAudio]

I'm not sure how important this is but as some may be aware on this site, I've been unable to get my Purifi amp built to work.

Thinking I must have made a wiring error on the aux cable, I ordered the new wiring kit from Ghent for the Purifi.

In looking at the aux cable carefully, I have found, I wired my cable exactly the same as Ghent, and both cables exhibit continuity at each any every connection.

Ditto the main power cable.

Looking at the cable leading from the mains voltage plug to J2 is another matter. Note the picture. The original IEC cable set which came with the 300mm Ghent NC 400 case is on the left and the new cable I just received is on the right. View attachment 90755


There exists only one way to plug into J2. With the original cable my set up looks like this:


View attachment 90758

Will this make a difference? Anyone know whether this is the root cause of my problem? Would it be fixable just by substituting the new cable or have I damaged the SMPS? Or am I just barking up the wrong tree?

Would appreciate the input. Ghent has the exact same wiring diagram for the plug for the new Purifi Case as he had for the 300mm NC 400 case, and Hypex did not even indicate which pin was which on J2 in their documentation, so I don;t see how I could have known. The thing only plugs in one way. Would be nice to know if I've maybe stumbled upon something after all these months.

The power plug you are showing has nothing to do with the problem you are facing.

Do you have any voltage at (J1)?

For example, any voltage variation?

Thanks

 

[phoenixdogfan]

The power plug you are showing has nothing to do with the problem you are facing.

Do you have any voltage at (J1)?

For example, any voltage variation?

Thanks

My multimeter registered 129V out of the HV+,HV- terminals when I measured, and the voltage was constant. Also I hear a soft click when I turn it on.

 

[MicroAudio]

Sounds good, could you please measure all other voltages as below??

Between pin 1 & pin 4 at (J1), you should get 15VDC

At (J5) between pin 1 & pin 3, you should get +22V or +12 based on the regulators AND between pin 2 & pin 3 you should get -22V or -12 based on the regulators.

The soft click seems OK as far as you have steady voltage.

Thanks

 

[JimB]

Sounds good, could you please measure all other voltages as below??

Between pin 1 & pin 4 at (J1), you should get 15VDC

At (J5) between pin 1 & pin 3, you should get +22V or +12 based on the regulators AND between pin 2 & pin 3 you should get -22V or -12 based on the regulators.

The soft click seems OK as far as you have steady voltage.

Thanks

For the EVAL1, VAUX should be UNregulated.

 

[phoenixdogfan]

For the EVAL1, VAUX should be UNregulated.

I've done that. First thing I did was move the pins on J6 and J7 to positions 2-3 from default positions 1-2. Also put the jumper on J2 to st it to 115v.