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DIY Icepower 6 channel amp

Joined
Nov 30, 2018
Messages
23
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5
Location
Mexico
#1
I just got my amp case back from my friend who machined my front and rear plates, and installed the amp modules. I am now trying to wire the amp modules up, but I am having some difficulty. I appreciate any assistance anyone can give me, as I am in Mexico and have no outlet for info locally.

I have run the power wires from the PowerCon connectors to the Switch (not hooked up yet though). now for some questions on the power runs.
The amp only uses 2 wires for power and I am using a 3 wire power cord for each pair of amp modules.

1: Do I need to run a 3rd wire...if so where do I run it to from the Powercon connector?
2: Does it just go to ground, and get grounded to the case?
3: I am assuming that it is ok to bundle the power wires all together, but want to make sure.
4: Do I need to ground the amp modules to the case or is the brass standoffs sufficient for this?
Amp pic power 1.jpg
Amp pic power 2.jpg
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Speaker hookups for BTL mode
Does anyone know how you hookup the wires... I am only using 1 channel as the amps are bridged BTL mode.
1: Do I hookup the + from one channel, and the Negative of the other?

Input wires... I am assuming pin numbers are read left to right.
1: Can someone tell me which pins on the amp module go to which pins on the XLRs?
 
OP
E
Joined
Nov 30, 2018
Messages
23
Likes
5
Location
Mexico
Thread Starter #3
did you still need help with this?
Yes, and no. I had it all up and running perfecty and I went to hookup my 12v LEDs with a 25v to 12v converter (using the icepower aux power)... I heard a pop, and then I got a garbled audio out of one of my asx50 BTL modules.I swapped wires and modules and it is def only this one amp module making this noise. In addition my Xilica xp4080 developed mid to high only tone on one channel. I moved the xilica inputs, and outputs over so input one and output 1 and 2 are not used. Now I do not have the tone from the xilica, but the one amp that is garbled is still garbled. I ordered a new one and a spare, but I would like to get the old one working too, but I do not know what to do. In addition I still do not know what to do about the 12v LEDs. I wanted to have a LED come on when the amp module powers up or have it come on when I have 1 watt of output.
 
Joined
Mar 26, 2020
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#4
Yes, and no. I had it all up and running perfecty and I went to hookup my 12v LEDs with a 25v to 12v converter (using the icepower aux power)... I heard a pop, and then I got a garbled audio out of one of my asx50 BTL modules.I swapped wires and modules and it is def only this one amp module making this noise. In addition my Xilica xp4080 developed mid to high only tone on one channel. I moved the xilica inputs, and outputs over so input one and output 1 and 2 are not used. Now I do not have the tone from the xilica, but the one amp that is garbled is still garbled. I ordered a new one and a spare, but I would like to get the old one working too, but I do not know what to do. In addition I still do not know what to do about the 12v LEDs. I wanted to have a LED come on when the amp module powers up or have it come on when I have 1 watt of output.
i can't say i know what converter you used, nor how you wired it (your comment of 1watt of power is concerning), so i'm not sure what happened. remember, the 25v output is dual rail, perhaps you put the +25 and -25 into the converter, i'm sure that wouldnt go well, and it's very likely you popped the module. i've roasted a 250a module by not properly hooking up the secondary power harness, it's not uncommon. i'm afraid hunting down what fried sounds well out of your abilities. perhaps a local electronics shop could

for 12v, i'm not sure i would even bother getting it from the aux power supply, just buy a small 120v to 12v transformer, they are super cheap, and just run the led off the mains power inlet or post-switch if thats what you are using to turn on the modules

also, why the massive case with heatsinks? at no point are you making contact with it, so it's literally doing nothing...plus, these are class d modules, they generally run quite cool

1: Do I need to run a 3rd wire...if so where do I run it to from the Powercon connector?
3rd wire should be grounded to the chasis

2: Does it just go to ground, and get grounded to the case?
yes

3: I am assuming that it is ok to bundle the power wires all together, but want to make sure.
not sure what you mean, they can run next to one another if thats what you are asking

4: Do I need to ground the amp modules to the case or is the brass standoffs sufficient for this?
standoffs are fine, they are class 2 devices: https://www.parts-express.com/pedoc...class-d-amp-with-power-supply-2x50-manual.pdf

Speaker hookups for BTL mode
Does anyone know how you hookup the wires... I am only using 1 channel as the amps are bridged BTL mode.
1: Do I hookup the + from one channel, and the Negative of the other?
you need to have balanced inputs, https://www.parts-express.com/pedoc...-class-d-amp-with-power-supply-data-sheet.pdf, figure 17 shows channel 1 as the 'cold' xlr line

Input wires... I am assuming pin numbers are read left to right.
1: Can someone tell me which pins on the amp module go to which pins on the XLRs?
https://www.parts-express.com/pedoc...-class-d-amp-with-power-supply-data-sheet.pdf figure 2 shows you how to read the pin order
 
OP
E
Joined
Nov 30, 2018
Messages
23
Likes
5
Location
Mexico
Thread Starter #5
i can't say i know what converter you used, nor how you wired it (your comment of 1watt of power is concerning), so i'm not sure what happened. remember, the 25v output is dual rail, perhaps you put the +25 and -25 into the converter, i'm sure that wouldnt go well, and it's very likely you popped the module. i've roasted a 250a module by not properly hooking up the secondary power harness, it's not uncommon. i'm afraid hunting down what fried sounds well out of your abilities. perhaps a local electronics shop could

for 12v, i'm not sure i would even bother getting it from the aux power supply, just buy a small 120v to 12v transformer, they are super cheap, and just run the led off the mains power inlet or post-switch if thats what you are using to turn on the modules

also, why the massive case with heatsinks? at no point are you making contact with it, so it's literally doing nothing...plus, these are class d modules, they generally run quite cool

1: Do I need to run a 3rd wire...if so where do I run it to from the Powercon connector?
3rd wire should be grounded to the chasis

2: Does it just go to ground, and get grounded to the case?
yes

3: I am assuming that it is ok to bundle the power wires all together, but want to make sure.
not sure what you mean, they can run next to one another if thats what you are asking

4: Do I need to ground the amp modules to the case or is the brass standoffs sufficient for this?
standoffs are fine, they are class 2 devices: https://www.parts-express.com/pedoc...class-d-amp-with-power-supply-2x50-manual.pdf

Speaker hookups for BTL mode
Does anyone know how you hookup the wires... I am only using 1 channel as the amps are bridged BTL mode.
1: Do I hookup the + from one channel, and the Negative of the other?
you need to have balanced inputs, https://www.parts-express.com/pedoc...-class-d-amp-with-power-supply-data-sheet.pdf, figure 17 shows channel 1 as the 'cold' xlr line

Input wires... I am assuming pin numbers are read left to right.
1: Can someone tell me which pins on the amp module go to which pins on the XLRs?
https://www.parts-express.com/pedoc...-class-d-amp-with-power-supply-data-sheet.pdf figure 2 shows you how to read the pin order
You nailed it... I ran the plus to plus and the neg to neg.

What I meant by 1 watt was to have the led come on when I have approx 1 watt going into or out of the amp like my yamaha p2500s does.
If I use a 120vto 12 v transformer...do I need to shield it? Would this work? https://www.ebay.com/itm/182198672055
The heat sinks are purely cosmetic... I just like the look of amps with heatsinks. I am waiting for my second case to arrive to build another one, but this one will be 6 asx125 modules in stereo.
 
Last edited:

levimax

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2018
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Location
San Diego
#7
You nailed it... I ran the plus to plus and the neg to neg.

What I meant by 1 watt was to have the led come on when I have approx 1 watt going into or out of the amp like my yamaha p2500s does.
If I use a 120vto 12 v transformer...do I need to shield it? Would this work? https://www.ebay.com/itm/182198672055
The heat sinks are purely cosmetic... I just like the look of amps with heatsinks. I am waiting for my second case to arrive to build another one, but this one will be 6 asx125 modules in stereo.
I just finished an amp build with what looks like the same LED power switches (I assume they came from China with the case?). They look cool but when wired with 12 volts they were way too bright for me. I tried 5 volts and while a little dim it is what I like. Of course you can use resistors to drop the voltage but if you haven't bought the 12 volt transformer yet I would consider getting a 6 volt one instead. Looks like you are having some fun.
 
OP
E
Joined
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Messages
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Location
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Thread Starter #8
I just finished an amp build with what looks like the same LED power switches (I assume they came from China with the case?). They look cool but when wired with 12 volts they were way too bright for me. I tried 5 volts and while a little dim it is what I like. Of course you can use resistors to drop the voltage but if you haven't bought the 12 volt transformer yet I would consider getting a 6 volt one instead. Looks like you are having some fun.
I ordered a 12v transformer already. Ifthis works out I will e ordering 11 more...as I have a 2nd 6 module amp I am building too. My switches were bought from Amazon, but the seller said 120v/12v and when I hooked them up the per the sellers instructions the LEDs blew. I have 2 per switch in the faceplate that will be used for some LEDs. I have some LED dimmer decales I will try, and I will also look for 6v transformers.
 

levimax

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2018
Messages
353
Likes
336
Location
San Diego
#9
I ordered a 12v transformer already. Ifthis works out I will e ordering 11 more...as I have a 2nd 6 module amp I am building too. My switches were bought from Amazon, but the seller said 120v/12v and when I hooked them up the per the sellers instructions the LEDs blew. I have 2 per switch in the faceplate that will be used for some LEDs. I have some LED dimmer decales I will try, and I will also look for 6v transformers.
I would just try the 12 volt transformer first.... we can't really be sure the switches are the same.... it might be easier just to use resistors to drop the voltage to where you like the brightness and since you are hooking up multiple LED's from the same transformer that will make a difference as well. When you say you "blew" the LED's did you hook them up to AC or hook them up backwards? LED's need DC and have a + and - that needs to be hooked up correctly just like any diode.
 
OP
E
Joined
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Messages
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Location
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Thread Starter #10
I would just try the 12 volt transformer first.... we can't really be sure the switches are the same.... it might be easier just to use resistors to drop the voltage to where you like the brightness and since you are hooking up multiple LED's from the same transformer that will make a difference as well. When you say you "blew" the LED's did you hook them up to AC or hook them up backwards? LED's need DC and have a + and - that needs to be hooked up correctly just like any diode.
I hooked it up just like the seller said to, and the LEDs were hooked up with 120v... I was assuming there was something in the switch that converted the LED hookup properly for their own LEDs. After this happened I checked Amazon reviews and saw that I was not the only one who thought this. I have 12V LEDs I wanted to use to display as an indicator of signal going through the amps just like my Yamaha p2500s does, but I have been unable to find someone that has such a product...so I will just have them turn on when the amp modules turn on.
 
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