DIY cable and adapter making. Looking for others.

[DonDish]

I put a DIY blog in a separate topic. The blog is 95% done so have a look. Including HD650 cable mod and adapter. Its not only my first real solder project, but also my first blog so opinions appreciated

ADI-2 PRO balanced adapter and HD650 balanced cable mod

I bought the ADI-2 PRO fs r be a couple of months ago, going from an ADI-2 DAC fs. The heftier PRO model gives alot of new functionality over its little brother. One option is to drive your headphones in a balanced fashion via two quarter inch TRS connectors. Im not going to dig into RME...

www.audiosciencereview.com

Done and ready

 

[DonDish]

Does anyone know how to read capacitance and ohm/kilometer specifications for meterware?

 

[HarmonicTHD]

Does anyone know how to read capacitance and ohm/kilometer specifications for meterware?

I think someone here already a while back started to collect that info. I am on my phone and can’t search for it atm.

 

[DonDish]

I think someone here already a while back started to collect that info. I am on my phone and can’t search for it atm.

Thnx Im gonna look around. Absolutely no hurry

 

[Wolf]

For testing cables, I've been using this for the past 12 years. Maybe not so necessary when making up a few cables, but saves a lot of time when having to test tens or hundreds of connections. Most useful thing is the intermittent test. Checks phantom power and also works as a line level and mic level signal generator for testing cables you can only get to one end of. For under £25, I wouldn't be without it.

View attachment 229858

S

I have one of those too.

Just finished this yesterday, a 15' subwoofer Y cable:

Used a nice sheathing, Belden Brilliance AES shielded cable, and Amphenol plugs.

 

[DonDish]

I have one of those too.

Just finished this yesterday, a 15' subwoofer Y cable:
View attachment 231606

Used a nice sheathing, Belden Brilliance AES shielded cable, and Amphenol plugs.

Very nice work! , but why did you use AES cable?

 

[Wolf]

It is really flexible, inexpensive, and I like it a lot. When I use it, it's nice to use in making cables. I used a bunch of it making balanced cables from my Anthem pre.
It is also applicable to TRS, XLR, mic, etc. The twin-axial twisted-core design and shielding reject noise well to boot. Additionally, my friend Matt (RIP) swore by it, and he used a lot of types before settling on it.

 

[DonDish]

It is really flexible, inexpensive, and I like it a lot. When I use it, it's nice to use in making cables. I used a bunch of it making balanced cables from my Anthem pre.
It is also applicable to TRS, XLR, mic, etc. The twin-axial twisted-core design and shielding reject noise well to boot. Additionally, my friend Matt (RIP) swore by it, and he used a lot of types before settling on it.

Ok! I was browsing around yesterday, and I found this french webshop audiophonics. Alot of snakeoil jewelry audiophile stuff, type 4 piece xlr contacts for €250. They have alot of serious stuff too for cablemaking etc. I found some Mogami cable. These are popular so I bought some to see how they are to work with.(Ive been using mostly Sommer and Cordial) One is a Starquad type. Its twisted pair, balanced microphone cable. The other is a thin 2.8mm, made for Lavalier mics. Those mosquito sized mics they put on the collar for TV talkshows. 2.8mm is perfect size for headphones. I use microphone cable for everything audio.
I bought some of that nice cablesleeve you use too. Ill be damned if it isnt the same brand. Im not gonna cover the whole cable, Only to stiffen the ends and use it to discern the channels ie red/blue. If a cable is small for the contacts is nice as filler too.

 

[Chrispy]

Tuning in. I've built some rca to xlr cables and rca to phoenix but nothing fancy, and also followed many recommendations for Neutrik connectors; used some appropriate Belden stock that'll make a few more if needed. Never bought a pre-made speaker cable but not much to that.

 

[DonDish]

@Wolf I was gonna say "dont use AES for line or mic signals" After checking around I found alot of pros actually prefer it. They care more for lower capacitance than worry about impedances. There is alot of opinion though. I think its safe to say: dont use microphone cable for AES signals.

 

[DonDish]

Tuning in. I've built some rca to xlr cables and rca to phoenix but nothing fancy, and also followed many recommendations for Neutrik connectors; used some appropriate Belden stock that'll make a few more if needed. Never bought a pre-made speaker cable but not much to that.

I found some nice coaxial speaker cable Im gonna try out. Magellan 240..

 

[Wolf]

For speaker cable; Mogami, Carol, Belden, or Canare copper wire (not CCA) are all good choices.

 

[DonDish]

For testing cables, I've been using this for the past 12 years. Maybe not so necessary when making up a few cables, but saves a lot of time when having to test tens or hundreds of connections. Most useful thing is the intermittent test. Checks phantom power and also works as a line level and mic level signal generator for testing cables you can only get to one end of. For under £25, I wouldn't be without it.

View attachment 229858

S

These are nice and priceworthy, and come in a thousand fashions. Im gonna get one! Absolutely, but for adapter making or y-splits they arent of much use.

 

[Holmz]

I use Mogami and a Weller iron, and Nuetrik ProFi for RCAs, and their XLRs.
A sleeve can make them look pretty, but mine are brown to hid on/near the wood floor.

Pretty easy.
I have a 6-set of Knipex snippets and needle nose pliers - which is dandy stuff.
A roach clip ended vice is handy, as holding crap requires the arm of Kali to keep stuff where it should be - when working alone.

 

[Chrispy]

I found some nice coaxial speaker cable Im gonna try out. Magellan 240..

Why that stock for speaker cable, tho? Bloody expensive! (assuming that's NOK) Way too expensive for all the speaker wire I use (I buy it in 300 ft reels, just 12g normal speaker wire works fine for me).

 

[DonDish]

I was searching for some polyolefin(shrinktube) glue to stick to the conical end of Neutriks. This is a problem becuse polyolefin is made to be chemically resistant(Maybe a bicycle rapair set would do ). There is some products for this, but it still has to stick at the Neutrik(Whatever plastic) end. I found this instead: Shrink tubing with inside adhesive I just have to find someone willing to sell it to me. Nice chat with the sommer sales guy.

 

[DonDish]

Why that stock for speaker cable, tho? Bloody expensive! (assuming that's NOK) Way too expensive for all the speaker wire I use (I buy it in 300 ft reels, just 12g normal speaker wire works fine for me).

12g would probably work for me too. Yeah its expensive $40 for 10 metres. Im not set on this, but im pondering it. Speaker cables is a later project

 

[Holmz]

12g would probably work for me too. Yeah its expensive $40 for 10 metres. Im not set on this, but im pondering it. Speaker cables is a later project

Maybe use longer ICs and shorter speaker cables?

 

[DonDish]

I use Mogami and a Weller iron, and Nuetrik ProFi for RCAs, and their XLRs.
A sleeve can make them look pretty, but mine are brown to hid on/near the wood floor.

Pretty easy.
I have a 6-set of Knipex snippets and needle nose pliers - which is dandy stuff.
A roach clip ended vice is handy, as holding crap requires the arm of Kali to keep stuff where it should be - when working alone.

Knipex is nice german quality. They are popular for sale here in Norway, and I also worked at a hardware store so got some at discount. These are "creme de la creme" though. There is nothing like swedish steel : Lindstrõm These are $150 pliers used in anything from electronics to goldsmithing. Your tip, tip grandchildren could inherit these and they would be just as good. Very high RC ballbearing type steel.

 

[Holmz]

@DonDish
yeah…I like nice tools.
(And I hate to buy twice.)