DIY 2-Way 3D Printed Speakers using Salvaged Mirage AVS-200 Drivers and 3D Printed Passive Radiator

[jbenzaquen]

Hey all, I want to preface this by saying, I have no clue what I am doing, and this has all been fueled by about a week of Adderall fueled research. I am not trying for the absolute best quality, but more to learn. I got a set of 4 AVS-200, and one AVS-100 center for $15, but 2 of the 200s had damage on the chassis, so decided to try and design some from scratch with these components, and make them as small as I could.

I have basing my design of this speaker kit: IWISTAO HIFI 2 Way Bookshelf
I also found this 3d printed passive radiator. This was intriguing as I could in theory make the speaker smaller and keep a lower bass response. I have this printed off already, and excited to see how it performs. 3D Printed Passive Radiator Toolkit

I want to try and reuse the 2kHz crossover from the original speaker to start. Probably going top try and replace this in the future depending on measurements.

What is everyone's thoughts on design? Probably went overboard on bracing. Was going to do a hollow shell, and fill it, but deciding to start with 60% gyroid, as Ive calculated that should be about the density of a medium weight wood give or take.

What about the fill on this? I was thinking polyfill, but not sure with the passive radiator. Should I foam the inner walls as well?

Thinking some veneer on some of the walls could look nice as well. Also planning some feet, but not designed yet. I have a few holes for heat inerts on the bottom to accomidate something in the future.

Ill get some measurements posted from my UMIK once I have everything put together.

 

[Lochstar8@ gmail. Com]

Very cool project and highly interested in how it will sound. funny enough I’m doing about the same thing found a pare of cheap Mirage AVS-200 speakers which I’m gonna use the tweeters out of in combo with Dayton audio ND91-8’s in a ported 2 way 3d printed enclosure. Running on a Dayton audio KABD-430 4 channel amp. So fully active is my plan. Eventually the drivers will be used for a Bluetooth speaker but I wanted to try out a ported inclosure instead of my ND90-PR passive radiators so I thought I’d start with a bookshelf type design first. I do have a question though how did you approach designing those tweeters in CAD. I took a picture and cross referenced that with measurement from my callipers but the results just aren’t as accurate as I’d like?

Very good looking design by the way.

 

[jbenzaquen]

Hey! I actually took the drivers off and took a pic of it on a white background. I then used as a reference image in fusion to trace out the shape. I’d be happy to share some files

 

[jbenzaquen]

Hey all, I want to preface this by saying, I have no clue what I am doing, and this has all been fueled by about a week of Adderall fueled research. I am not trying for the absolute best quality, but more to learn. I got a set of 4 AVS-200, and one AVS-100 center for $15, but 2 of the 200s had damage on the chassis, so decided to try and design some from scratch with these components, and make them as small as I could.

I have basing my design of this speaker kit: IWISTAO HIFI 2 Way Bookshelf
I also found this 3d printed passive radiator. This was intriguing as I could in theory make the speaker smaller and keep a lower bass response. I have this printed off already, and excited to see how it performs. 3D Printed Passive Radiator Toolkit

I want to try and reuse the 2kHz crossover from the original speaker to start. Probably going top try and replace this in the future depending on measurements.

What is everyone's thoughts on design? Probably went overboard on bracing. Was going to do a hollow shell, and fill it, but deciding to start with 60% gyroid, as Ive calculated that should be about the density of a medium weight wood give or take.

What about the fill on this? I was thinking polyfill, but not sure with the passive radiator. Should I foam the inner walls as well?

Thinking some veneer on some of the walls could look nice as well. Also planning some feet, but not designed yet. I have a few holes for heat inerts on the bottom to accomidate something in the future.

Ill get some measurements posted from my UMIK once I have everything put together.

Got it put together now to build! Had a power outage 3 times during this print but its just my prototype, hoping to improve looks next go around. Learned a lot so far.

Now on to measurements! Hopefully not too rough

 

[Lochstar8@ gmail. Com]

Hey! I actually took the drivers off and took a pic of it on a white background. I then used as a reference image in fusion to trace out the shape. I’d be happy to share some files

I ended up doing exactly what you said and just spent a little more time to get the picture as good as I could and that worked far better. Took like 6 test prints to get it where I wanted it but everything fits nicely. Just in time for me to re-design the entire thing because I realized it’s basically impossible to print without a ton of supports so time to make it split into too halves.

By the way the results look great, how do they sound by ear? I’d have to imagine the bass is better with that passive radiator rather than the sealed inclosure.

 

[jbenzaquen]

I have to play it today! I didn’t finish until about 3 am and my neighbors would’ve hated me! What’s best way to test a single receiver with an AVR? Maybe turn off all speakers except center? Not sure if that’s possible