terryforsythe
Major Contributor
1/2 wavelength corresponding to the hole diameter for a 6.5" woofer.
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1/2 wavelength corresponding to the hole diameter for a 6.5" woofer.
terryforsythe
Major Contributor
I would configure it like RickS suggested.
- Thread Starter
- #103
Thanks to @terryforsythe , @Paweł L, and @RickS for the guidance on this.
One bit of background data: The prototype was chamfered at 22.5 deg around 2/3 of its full 33 mm thickness, as shown below. It showed no evidence of any issues in the 1.0-1.2 KHz area. The full thickness of the baffle is 38 mm. The inside edge of the chamfer comes very close to the enclosure wall.
For the new baffle, I've already cut the 19 mm deep rabbet on the inside. I think I have two options:
1. Chamfer at 22.5 degrees as before, except where the mounting screws come through. More material has been removed than in the prototype, due to the straight portion where the rabbet has been cut, but of course the shape is different and there are the lands where the screws go.. The side wall is now shown for reference. This looks similar to the example that @RickS provided.
2. Chamfer at 45 degrees, except where the mounting screws come through.
Suggestions?
One bit of background data: The prototype was chamfered at 22.5 deg around 2/3 of its full 33 mm thickness, as shown below. It showed no evidence of any issues in the 1.0-1.2 KHz area. The full thickness of the baffle is 38 mm. The inside edge of the chamfer comes very close to the enclosure wall.
For the new baffle, I've already cut the 19 mm deep rabbet on the inside. I think I have two options:
1. Chamfer at 22.5 degrees as before, except where the mounting screws come through. More material has been removed than in the prototype, due to the straight portion where the rabbet has been cut, but of course the shape is different and there are the lands where the screws go.. The side wall is now shown for reference. This looks similar to the example that @RickS provided.
2. Chamfer at 45 degrees, except where the mounting screws come through.
Suggestions?
terryforsythe
Major Contributor
I probably would go 45 degrees, but I don't have any experience with 22.5 degrees to opine on that.
thunderchicken
Active Member
I did 45, but mainly because that’s the router bit I had available. It was available because the kit specified 45 and I bought it to follow directions, not because of any actual data.
- Thread Starter
- #107
Since it's been three weeks, one pic from the process of fitting the baffles to the enclosures. I was not happy with the enclosure finish so I've taken a lot of time to get it right. We want a relatively flat finish. Flat water-based polyurethanes are notorious, I've learned, for showing brush strokes. I don't have a sprayer, so I've reverted to something I've done before: Apply glossy finish then buff down with abrasive pads to 0000 steel wool. I'm close to being finished with repairing remaining flaws.
Meanwhile, the baffle mounting blocks with elongated holes, along with a thin spacer that sits between the enclosure and baffle are in place. The spacer, glued to the enclosure with silicone adhesive, fulfills two purposes: It provides a visual break between the enclosure and baffle, and also a properly dimensioned O-ring groove for the seal.
And yes - I do need to place holes for the terminals!
Meanwhile, the baffle mounting blocks with elongated holes, along with a thin spacer that sits between the enclosure and baffle are in place. The spacer, glued to the enclosure with silicone adhesive, fulfills two purposes: It provides a visual break between the enclosure and baffle, and also a properly dimensioned O-ring groove for the seal.
And yes - I do need to place holes for the terminals!
