Designing a 3D Printable Case for the Khadas Tone Board

[drewfIr]

Where does one pick up all the screws and standoffs?

While considered wyrainer's design, briefly looked into buy the DIY case
and standoffs. But did not find all the needed standoffs in one
assortment kit, that was not too expensive. So decided against that
design and also the top from the DIY case is too open for the amount of
dust here.

Can get the DIY case from Amazon for $5.50:

https://www.amazon.com/Khadas-Transparent-Without-Metal-Plate/dp/B07FZ74V5F/

And try this search on Amazon: m2 standoffs

 

[drewfIr]

Do not know anything about 3D printing. Can you guys let me know if the
following printers: Creality CR-10, Original Prusa i3 MK3 and Ultimaker 2
Extended will provide a good finish? Like what @JohsonChou mentions
in this post, about the Ultimaker 2+ printer:

https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...the-khadas-tone-board.5098/page-5#post-123269

Thank You

 

[Frost]

Do not know anything about 3D printing. Can you guys let me know if the
following printers: Creality CR-10, Original Prusa i3 MK3 and Ultimaker 2
Extended will provide a good finish? Like what @JohsonChou mentions
in this post, about the Ultimaker 2+ printer:

https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...the-khadas-tone-board.5098/page-5#post-123269

Thank You

I don't think you could go wrong with any of those. all three are considered pretty good printers especially when you take some time to dial in the settings(though i suppose this could be considered the major differences between them; how much time you're willing to put in to sit down and calibrate things. The creality will take some work, but once it's dialed in, you'll get some nice prints for a good while(with some fine tuning every now and then, and a chance of a print failing every now and then but it's not too bad), and it's also go the biggest print area. The prusa i3 mk 3 is probably among the best consumer/prosumer printers on the market right now, with all those sensors and a rigid frame, but it does have the smallest print area(though its big enough for almost everything). The Ultimaker 2 Extended is a much more expensive printer and potentially better engineered(and apparently is easiest to tune), but well... based on most reviews I've seen the original i3 is good enough the fff printers beyond it seem to hit the wall of diminishing returns hard... it does have a taller build area though and feels like it looks the most professional in my opinion(and basically like an apple device in the computer world))

 

[Frost]

also, seeing that there some concerns about ventilation

Set the top and bottom layer thicknesses to 0 in your slicer when printing the back plate, wall thickness to something you think will work, choose an infill pattern you like, and choose a density that feels like it'll provide the airflow you want. Top one was a 20% infill full honeycomb, bottom is at 10% full honeycomb(I chose 2.4mm wall thickness/6shells to have the walls connect., but when looking at the gcode after, I feel 1.6mm/4shells and 15% infill will work fine and save time). Think the only current infill patterns that won't work for this is concentric, 3d honeycomb, and gyroid.

I might add some vents to the bottom of the case so convection can cool the board more, but i'm definitely uncertain of if it'll help at all...

 

[drewfIr]

I don't think you could go wrong with any of those. all three are considered pretty good printers especially when you take some time to dial in the settings(though i suppose this could be considered the major differences between them; how much time you're willing to put in to sit down and calibrate things. The creality will take some work, but once it's dialed in, you'll get some nice prints for a good while(with some fine tuning every now and then, and a chance of a print failing every now and then but it's not too bad), and it's also go the biggest print area. The prusa i3 mk 3 is probably among the best consumer/prosumer printers on the market right now, with all those sensors and a rigid frame, but it does have the smallest print area(though its big enough for almost everything). The Ultimaker 2 Extended is a much more expensive printer and potentially better engineered(and apparently is easiest to tune), but well... based on most reviews I've seen the original i3 is good enough the fff printers beyond it seem to hit the wall of diminishing returns hard... it does have a taller build area though and feels like it looks the most professional in my opinion(and basically like an apple device in the computer world))

@Frost,

Thank you for the detailed answer. Was asking because those are the
printers that the 3-D printing services near me are using.

 

[drewfIr]

@Frost,

Like the top honeycomb pattern a bit more than the bottom one. Nice
instructions for those that have a 3-D printer.

Instead of adding some vents at the bottom. Perhaps add them on the
sides, taking up only the back half of each side. So with vents on the
back and both sides, would allow for some good airflow.

In case you missed, this post:

https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...the-khadas-tone-board.5098/page-6#post-127114


Here is a quote from @Ben1987, that was posted on the "Review and
Measurements of WesionTEK Khadas Tone Board DAC" thread[0]. For those
that might have missed it:

Tone Board's power consumption is relatively small, it is not necessary to heat sink alone. It is better to leave some cooling holes and keep the heat exchange between the inside and outside of the case faster.

[0] https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...iontek-khadas-tone-board-dac.4823/post-128510

Thank You

 

[JohsonChou]

@Frost,

Like the top honeycomb pattern a bit more than the bottom one. Nice
instructions for those that have a 3-D printer.

Instead of adding some vents at the bottom. Perhaps add them on the
sides, taking up only the back half of each side. So with vents on the
back and both sides, would allow for some good airflow.

In case you missed, this post:

https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...the-khadas-tone-board.5098/page-6#post-127114


Here is a quote from @Ben1987, that was posted on the "Review and
Measurements of WesionTEK Khadas Tone Board DAC" thread[0]. For those
that might have missed it:




[0] https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...iontek-khadas-tone-board-dac.4823/post-128510

Thank You

I am EE and I can confidently tell you that this board doesn't need heat sink or vent holes at all. Adding a vent hole to it is like drilling a hole on your calculator so it can "vent better". It is in your mind man.

 

[drewfIr]

I am EE and I can confidently tell you that this board doesn't need heat sink or vent holes at all. Adding a vent hole to it is like drilling a hole on your calculator so it can "vent better". It is in your mind man.

@JohsonChou,

LOL. The only reason brought this up again, was because of @Ben1987's
comments. Actually prefer the closed box design, as it is very dusty
here. But willing to have vents on the side and back if they are needed.

 

[Roen]

While considered wyrainer's design, briefly looked into buy the DIY case
and standoffs. But did not find all the needed standoffs in one
assortment kit, that was not too expensive. So decided against that
design and also the top from the DIY case is too open for the amount of
dust here.

Can get the DIY case from Amazon for $5.50:

https://www.amazon.com/Khadas-Transparent-Without-Metal-Plate/dp/B07FZ74V5F/

And try this search on Amazon: m2 standoffs

What type of head on the screws? buttonhead? countersunk?

 

[drewfIr]

What type of head on the screws? buttonhead? countersunk?

Do not know perhaps @wyrainer, will chime in and let us
know.

 

[WondrousHippo]

Thinking about getting one printed, but not sure if it will work with the VIM version?

 

[Frost]

Thinking about getting one printed, but not sure if it will work with the VIM version?

Vim version has different height measurement from what I know, so I don't think any of the designs for the generic version will work. If you're handy with a soldering iron, you can remove the gpio pins for connecting to their vim board and that should probably work

 

[drewfIr]

Vim version has different height measurement from what I know...

Now that you mention this. Believe this mentioned somewhere in the
review thread.

 

[LiLThuG]

This is the design: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3230306
No plastic finishing, I did file the usb port a little to make a good fit.
I am using like the cheapest PLA to print it, (Inland PLA). I don't think material choice would matter in this design.
The good finish comes from the 3D printer I am using, the Ultimaker 2+, which usually gives a superior finish than other 3D printers.

Will this design work on VIM's edition?

 

[Frost]

That one's designed for the generic edition. The gpio pins will block the board from fitting

Choices are to desolder the pins to use it like the generic mode since they're both the same board or design a case for it, and I'm not sure if anyone has both the vim edition and a printer and is willing to do the prototyping

 

[maxxevv]

On the case for custom enclosuress, was just wondering how much would you guys realistically pay for a CNC'ed aluminium case for the Khadas board?

 

[WoodyLuvr]

Definitely not more than USD 200!

 

[Stein]

On the case for custom enclosuress, was just wondering how much would you guys realistically pay for a CNC'ed aluminium case for the Khadas board?

Without any insight on the production process, I can't tell you what it's objectively worth.
But personally, I'd be willing to pay 50$ for an aluminum case.

 

[maxxevv]

In any case, I have to get myself a Khadas board to toy around and design/build a case around it for starters. And then determine how much it would cost after that.

 

[drewfIr]

On the case for custom enclosuress, was just wondering how much would you guys realistically pay for a CNC'ed aluminium case for the Khadas board?

$50 , sounds about right.