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Denon AVR-X4800H AVR Review

Rate this AVR

  • 1. Poor (headless panther)

    Votes: 10 2.6%
  • 2. Not terrible (postman panther)

    Votes: 75 19.4%
  • 3. Fine (happy panther)

    Votes: 210 54.4%
  • 4. Great (golfing panther)

    Votes: 91 23.6%

  • Total voters
    386
That doesn't mean it can't drive 4ohm speakers, but it might not be able to drive them to full power.

So for example - if your AVR is at it's maximum current at 90W into 8ohm, then it will still be able to drive 45W into four ohm wihtout clipping.

However, I think it is likely that the 90W into 8ohm is voltage limited rather than current limited, so it is quite possible that it can do better than 45W in four ohm. Somewhere between the 45 and 90. However, without measurements or a manufacturer rating it is not possible to know exactly where it will get to.
It's this exact model.

 
Current fronts are 86 db sensitivity in 6 ohm. The rears will be 86 in 4 ohm . My current AVR is only rated at like 90WPC and is not 4 ohm rated.

most AVR will handle 4Ohm speakers just fine. The tricky one is 2Ohm and variable impedance. You can see in the review it can provide 142 wpc with 2 channel, 4 Ohm, which is plenty
your current AVR is fine, upgrading to x4800h/x3800h will provide you more features, and most importantly, Audyssey XT32 (and if you want, Dirac). The difference in amplification will not be noticed
99% will be fine with x3800h. If you have the money and want to I don't see why x4800h is a bad idea. not as good in term of performance/price as x3800h, but a solid choice regardless (I'd buy one if the price is not so different to x3800h)
 
Would a X3800h and a 700ish dollar amp provide better audio in 2 and 5 channel than the 4800? Or is that all nonsense about amps providing better sound?


Amps will only provide audibly better sound if you need more power than the 3800 can deliver. in most cases this won't be the case. Further, the power difference between 3800 and 4800 isn't really worth worrying about:

168/114 (4/8ohm) vs 175/134 (a maximum of 1.16dB)



It's this exact model.

Well those measurements show it can do about 100W into four ohms. And more than the 90W at 8 ohms you mentioned in the post I replied to.



your current AVR is fine, upgrading to x4800h/x3800h will provide you more features, and most importantly, Audyssey XT32 (and if you want, Dirac)
This is the important bit - if you want to upgrade, do so for features, not for amplification, which won't be significantly better.
 
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I may try just running with it and the 4 ohm speakers. I think the 3800 is an amazing bargain for the money but I like that the 4800 is built in Japan. Hopefully I would have better experiences with the presumably better assembly quality.
 
I may try just running with it and the 4 ohm speakers. I think the 3800 is an amazing bargain for the money but I like that the 4800 is built in Japan. Hopefully I would have better experiences with the presumably better assembly quality.
I like that to but let's be honest, you setup it once and leave it to media rack. Any difference in build quality will soon be forgotten. Reliability is harder to measure but as long as you get 3 years of warranty, not a concern :)

I bought x4800h at good price but the shop is likely NOT shipping it, so I bought x3800h on discount from amazon, on my way home tomorrow. I'd be happier with x4800h if it was actually delivered (perceived value on RRP), but either case, good for me :)
 
I like that to but let's be honest, you setup it once and leave it to media rack. Any difference in build quality will soon be forgotten. Reliability is harder to measure but as long as you get 3 years of warranty, not a concern :)

I bought x4800h at good price but the shop is likely NOT shipping it, so I bought x3800h on discount from amazon, on my way home tomorrow. I'd be happier with x4800h if it was actually delivered (perceived value on RRP), but either case, good for me :)
Both Denons I had previously died multiple times the final time out of warranty. Which is why I was always gun shy on them. Yamaha and Sony by comparison were always rock solid for me.
 
Both Denons I had previously died multiple times the final time out of warranty. Which is why I was always gun shy on them. Yamaha and Sony by comparison were always rock solid for me.
could they be repaired?
check with your retailer if they provide extended warranty. In Germany/Netherlands, x4800h get 5y of warranty which is really a peace of mind
 
could they be repaired?
check with your retailer if they provide extended warranty. In Germany/Netherlands, x4800h get 5y of warranty which is really a peace of mind
They are really old and got tossed. The 1912 I actually had repaired under warranty twice. I got it refurb from Accessories4less. They actually were great. How ever it died a third time right after warranty ended. I replaced it with a cheap Yamaha that was rock solid.

Years later I chalked up the failure to refurbished and getting a dud. I wanted to upgrade my Yamaha and bought a X3400H. It died eventually too and I got so pissed I tossed it in the trash and bought this Sony that also has been rock solid. Not even HDMI handshake issues. Absolutely flawless. I know people here are down on Sony but it's been the most reliable AVR I've ever owned by a huge margin.
 
There is a per channel gain setting. I can set the gain of (for example) the LR to -12, and the gain of the C channel to +12dB independently. If we assume LR are on an external amp, and C internal, then that allows us to set a relative gain difference of up to +/-24dB between the channels. Let's say we need up to +/- 6dB of that to compensate speaker distances and sensitivities, it still allows +/-18dB for amp gain matching.

Unless I've seriously misunderstood what is going on.
Thikk that is generally correct, but as I understand you would not want to push to +12dB boosts as it could potentially clip the pre-amp, especially at higher master volumes. So depending on the setup and gear, it might give you more limited adjustment range.
 
So for example - if your AVR is at it's maximum current at 90W into 8ohm, then it will still be able to drive 45W into four ohm wihtout clipping.
I'm curious why you halved the power when the resistance is also halved. I remember V = IR from physics: if [V]oltage is held constant and you halve the [R]esistance, doesn't the I (current) have to double to compensate?

I know most mass market amps can't double power at 4 ohms but at least the direction is upwards!
 
Are you sure? I would think with Dirac it’s measuring the actual in room response which includes the net result of speakers, amps, room effects, DACs… So then when you set a target curve, all this taken into account to calculate the necessary in inverse filter to achieve the target

True to a point. In terms of the frequency response from approx 20-20 kHz, yes, but Dirac's target curve would only try to do its magic to restore the response in the audio band, it wouldn't undo the other effects of the C40's slow roll off dac reconstruction filter. I believe the effects are not audible to people with normal hearing, including those who think they hear a "warmer" sound but I (no one) can tell them what they heard was imagined, as the only way to prove it (even then...) is for them to do enough DBT and we all know that's not going to happen lol.
 
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I'm curious why you halved the power when the resistance is also halved. I remember V = IR from physics: if [V]oltage is held constant and you halve the [R]esistance, doesn't the I (current) have to double to compensate?

I know most mass market amps can't double power at 4 ohms but at least the direction is upwards!
Yes, but if you already get the maximum current available, then it can't double.

Your are correct that V = IR, but also important is power: P = VI = R I^2 = V^2 / R

So if you are already at the maximum possible current (limited by the powersupply), halving the resistance means halving the available power.
 
I'm curious why you halved the power when the resistance is also halved. I remember V = IR from physics: if [V]oltage is held constant and you halve the [R]esistance, doesn't the I (current) have to double to compensate?

I know most mass market amps can't double power at 4 ohms but at least the direction is upwards!
He did it as I would do it too, because he assumed, as stated that the maximum current was based on 8 ohms. So using the same current, as you know, power = I^2*R, so half the resistance would end up with half the power/wattage. If you held the voltage constant, then yes, you get double the power (only if the amp can output double the current). It is highly unlikely that AVR amps can double the current from 8 to 4 ohms, except it is obvious that the mid range D+M AVR amps can approach that for short duration (seconds, or a minute, we don't know..).
 
I may try just running with it and the 4 ohm speakers. I think the 3800 is an amazing bargain for the money but I like that the 4800 is built in Japan. Hopefully I would have better experiences with the presumably better assembly quality.
No harm trying, but be careful with the volume dial, after running auto setup/Audyssey (assuming you are in fact getting the Denon), check that the trim settings are within a couple dB to 0. If so, then I would say you can safely run your 4 ohm speakers with volume dial well below 0, up to -12 should be safe enough but I would keep it below -15 at all times. For longevity reason, I would definitely use a quiet fan to blow from back to front (to minimize dust depositing inside the enclosure).
 
Both Denons I had previously died multiple times the final time out of warranty. Which is why I was always gun shy on them. Yamaha and Sony by comparison were always rock solid for me.
What speakers did your Denon avr die from?
 
It definitely wasn't from driving it hard. I didn't really listen loud. 1912 was Mirage Nano Sats and the 3400 was Klipsch Reference Premieres.
That's weird then, I have had quite a few Denon AVRs over the years, the oldest one is the 3805. also had the little 1410, 1912, then the 4308, 4400 and no issues with any of them. May be it was just tough luck? I hope that won't discourage you from getting the 3800, 4800 or 6800, or even the Cinema 50, 40, if in EU countries.
 
That's weird then, I have had quite a few Denon AVRs over the years, the oldest one is the 3805. also had the little 1410, 1912, then the 4308, 4400 and no issues with any of them. May be it was just tough luck? I hope that won't discourage you from getting the 3800, 4800 or 6800, or even the Cinema 50, 40, if in EU countries.
Same experience here. You are obviously free to choose other brands, and some of the recently announced AVRs with Dirac ART might be the opportunity. But then none of them really come with the same record of being reliable as D&M does.

Another thing that comes to mind is electrical installation. Are you sure all is fine up there? Have there ever been fuse issues that would put the Denon circuit out?
 
Same experience here. You are obviously free to choose other brands, and some of the recently announced AVRs with Dirac ART might be the opportunity. But then none of them really come with the same record of being reliable as D&M does.

Another thing that comes to mind is electrical installation. Are you sure all is fine up there? Have there ever been fuse issues that would put the Denon circuit out?
This was in several different houses and the Yamaha and Sony I replaced them with have been absolutely rock solid. So I don't think that's it. I guess I just got extremely unlucky. Because no one else seems to have a similar experience. It's hard to ignore though when other brands have all been much better as far as reliability. Though it's obvious Denon offers the best value proposition, which for me is very frustrating haha.
 
That's weird then, I have had quite a few Denon AVRs over the years, the oldest one is the 3805. also had the little 1410, 1912, then the 4308, 4400 and no issues with any of them. May be it was just tough luck? I hope that won't discourage you from getting the 3800, 4800 or 6800, or even the Cinema 50, 40, if in EU countries.

My Denon 4500 which was purchased as a refurb from Accessories4less crapped out within 9 months of purchase in much the same way. The amp section for the ATMOS speakers simply started to crackle and then went dead. I sent it in for repairs to Denon and the repair folks returned it even more damaged than when I shipped it to them. This time there was physical damage to the front and the front cover would no longer close. Plus, new scratches all over the case.

The 3rd party repair company (PANURGY OEM) Denon recommended claimed after returning it that it wasn't fixable. I had to push Denon to make it right. After several months they sent me a used 4700. Wasn't my best customer service experience. I learned NEVER buy Denon refurb gear from Accessories4less and don't expect great results from PANURGY OEM. It took over 5 months to resolve the issue. Crazy bad service. :cool:
 
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