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Denon AVR-X3800H Review

Rate this AVR

  • 1. Poor (headless panther)

    Votes: 85 18.1%
  • 2. Not terrible (postman panther)

    Votes: 214 45.5%
  • 3. Fine (happy panther)

    Votes: 135 28.7%
  • 4. Great (golfing panther)

    Votes: 36 7.7%

  • Total voters
    470
Try to find a quality made in Europe or Japan step up converter.
It should be step down converter, right? 220V network to 120v AVR.

I would rather look for autotransformer than electronic converter. I don't know how good are available converters, but they usually aproximate sinus voltage at output, which can lead to noise or additional heat on AVR.
Other thing is network frequency. Switching from 60Hz design to 50Hz network overtaxes transformer. I would try to lower voltage even more, like to 100V.

Or maybe there exist a good converter to 120V/60Hz?
 
Hello everyone,

I’m still a beginner. Currently, I’m using a Denon X3800H AV receiver with an SVS SB3000 subwoofer, and my 5.1.2ch setup consists of SVS Prime Satellite speakers x5 and 2 Monolith THX campact satellites.

Previously, I used Audyssey XT32 for room calibration (with two Speaker Presets saved). However, since Dirac started their Black Friday sale yesterday, I’ve purchased Dirac Live Room Correction + Bass Control. I have a few questions I’d like to ask:

  1. Before running Dirac, do I need to disable Audyssey or reset the two Speaker Presets saved on my receiver to their default settings? If there are any other feature I need to disable or reset, please let me know.
  2. Should I use the advanced subwoofer tuning features in the SVS App (e.g., PEQ) before running Dirac, or should I let Dirac RC + BC handle all speaker and subwoofer configurations?
If you have any related articles, videos, or materials for reference, I’d greatly appreciate it. Thank you!
Also a Denon 3800 owner but I only have Dirac Live Full Bandwidth license (no DLBC). Here are some answers and beginner tips:

1) Audyssey doesn't need to be disabled (it can be left saved in its own preset as Dirac will be saved in the other one!). There's nothing to disable but once you have finished Dirac calibration, certain settings may be locked out when you return to the Denon menu. Note that certain features like DynamicEQ can't be used w/Dirac (but you can always switch back to the Audyssey preset when needed)!

2) Since you have purchased DLBC, leave all your SW tuning EQ settings neutral/off. The only adjustment you should make on your SW is the gain dial (see mehlau link below).

Here are very clear step by step instructions of how to get your Dirac calibration going:

Most important takeaway from that website:
- Need a decent margin above the noise floor (make sure room is silent and any "droning" from equipment is addressed.
- SW gain is only addressed after all other speakers are done

Additional tips:
1) You didn't mention it but I assume you got a hold of a UMIK-1 microphone and the 90° upward calibration file?
2) Don't forget to address Dirac Bass Management before doing Bass Control!
3) Big Dirac thread here: https://www.avsforum.com/posts/59508402/
 
It should be step down converter, right? 220V network to 120v AVR.

I would rather look for autotransformer than electronic converter. I don't know how good are available converters, but they usually aproximate sinus voltage at output, which can lead to noise or additional heat on AVR.
Other thing is network frequency. Switching from 60Hz design to 50Hz network overtaxes transformer. I would try to lower voltage even more, like to 100V.

Or maybe there exist a good converter to 120V/60Hz?
Yes, step down.
 
Also a Denon 3800 owner but I only have Dirac Live Full Bandwidth license (no DLBC). Here are some answers and beginner tips:

1) Audyssey doesn't need to be disabled (it can be left saved in its own preset as Dirac will be saved in the other one!). There's nothing to disable but once you have finished Dirac calibration, certain settings may be locked out when you return to the Denon menu. Note that certain features like DynamicEQ can't be used w/Dirac (but you can always switch back to the Audyssey preset when needed)!

2) Since you have purchased DLBC, leave all your SW tuning EQ settings neutral/off. The only adjustment you should make on your SW is the gain dial (see mehlau link below).

Here are very clear step by step instructions of how to get your Dirac calibration going:

Most important takeaway from that website:
- Need a decent margin above the noise floor (make sure room is silent and any "droning" from equipment is addressed.
- SW gain is only addressed after all other speakers are done

Additional tips:
1) You didn't mention it but I assume you got a hold of a UMIK-1 microphone and the 90° upward calibration file?
2) Don't forget to address Dirac Bass Management before doing Bass Control!
3) Big Dirac thread here: https://www.avsforum.com/posts/59508402/

1) You didn't mention it but I assume you got a hold of a UMIK-1 microphone and the 90° upward calibration file? Yes, I use UMIK-1 with 90 degree cal file
2) Don't forget to address Dirac Bass Management before doing Bass Control! Got it
3) Big Dirac thread here: https://www.avsforum.com/posts/59508402/ I'll read the thread this weekend.

One thing I’m still unclear about is the correct sequence for running Dirac, especially for my first attempt. From what I understand, the process should be:
Dirac Live Room Correction > Bass Management > Bass Control

However, as far as I know, I need to manually set the crossover points in Speaker Preset 2 before running Dirac Live Room Correction. Since I’m unsure about the optimal crossover points for my speakers, I have two options:

Option A: Set all speaker crossover points to 80Hz and run Dirac Live Room Correction.
Option B: Use the crossover points previously set by Audyssey XT32 and run Dirac Live Room Correction.

Which option do you think would be more reasonable and appropriate?

My 5.1.2ch speaker setup is as follows: (Room size: 4*4*2.5 meter)

  • L/R Main: SVS Prime Satellite *2
  • Center: SVS Prime Satellite *1
  • L/R Surround: SVS Prime Satellite *2
  • Middle Top: Monolith by Monoprice THX Certified Satellite *2
  • LFE: SVS SB 3000 *1
Previously, when I ran Audyssey XT32, it automatically set the crossover points as follows:

  • L/R Main: 80Hz
  • Center: 90Hz
  • L/R Surround: 110Hz
  • Middle Top: 80Hz
Thanks in advance
 
1) You didn't mention it but I assume you got a hold of a UMIK-1 microphone and the 90° upward calibration file? Yes, I use UMIK-1 with 90 degree cal file
2) Don't forget to address Dirac Bass Management before doing Bass Control! Got it
3) Big Dirac thread here: https://www.avsforum.com/posts/59508402/ I'll read the thread this weekend.

One thing I’m still unclear about is the correct sequence for running Dirac, especially for my first attempt. From what I understand, the process should be:
Dirac Live Room Correction > Bass Management > Bass Control

However, as far as I know, I need to manually set the crossover points in Speaker Preset 2 before running Dirac Live Room Correction. Since I’m unsure about the optimal crossover points for my speakers, I have two options:

Option A: Set all speaker crossover points to 80Hz and run Dirac Live Room Correction.
Option B: Use the crossover points previously set by Audyssey XT32 and run Dirac Live Room Correction.

Which option do you think would be more reasonable and appropriate?

My 5.1.2ch speaker setup is as follows: (Room size: 4*4*2.5 meter)

  • L/R Main: SVS Prime Satellite *2
  • Center: SVS Prime Satellite *1
  • L/R Surround: SVS Prime Satellite *2
  • Middle Top: Monolith by Monoprice THX Certified Satellite *2
  • LFE: SVS SB 3000 *1
Previously, when I ran Audyssey XT32, it automatically set the crossover points as follows:

  • L/R Main: 80Hz
  • Center: 90Hz
  • L/R Surround: 110Hz
  • Middle Top: 80Hz
Thanks in advance
Crossovers are set in Dirac Bass Management and you have a choice of a global value or by groups. I don’t have DLBC but I hear you have to hit a “Calculate” button!
 
There appears to be no Dirac bass management or possibly no Dirac correction at all when playing thru Heos. Can anyone confirm this?
Scrub that. Sorry, I messed up, I must've been in pure mode. I can confirm that Dirac does work with HEOS.
 
Hi, I am trying to install my new 3800 but when I started the setup got a little surprise: the manual says to use a TV - which I don't have :)
Does anyone know I way I could do the setup process through an app or through my laptop?
 
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Hi, I am trying to install my new 3800 but when I started the setup got a little surprise: the manual says to use a TV - which I don't have :)
Does anyone know I way I could do the setup process through an app or through my laptop?
If I remember right I use the app without using a TV to run Audyssey when I had the 1800, and just use the unit’s display to do the set up. I have also used my old PC monitor to do subsequent setups and it was much easier to do it that way. Pretty sure the 3800 can be done the same way. So, just use a Computer monitor that has HDMI inputs.
 
If I remember right I use the app without using a TV to run Audyssey when I had the 1800, and just use the unit’s display to do the set up. I have also used my old PC monitor to do subsequent setups and it was much easier to do it that way. Pretty sure the 3800 can be done the same way. So, just use a Computer monitor that has HDMI inputs.
Will do cheers!
 
After having spent a couple hours installing the 3800 and going through the whole measurement and installation process with Audyssey it sounds absolutely horrible (I am using just the upmixing options and by now the setup is 7.0)
Is this normal? Should I ignore Audyssey and try to do the setup manually? If so, how could I do it?
 
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After having spent a couple hours installing the 3800 and going through the whole measurement and installation process with Audyssey it sounds absolutely horrible (I am using just the upmixing options and by now the setup is 7.0)
Is this normal? Should I ignore Audyssey and try to do the setup manually? If so, how could I do it?
Was it the first time you use Audyssey, and did you use the app?

Obviously you don't have to use Audyssey. As to do it manually, I would suggest using Ratbuddyssey and REW (both are freeware at the moment), or as many rave about the results, use the so called Audyssey One, by OCA:


Either way, you only need to buy the $20 MultEQ Editor app.

Does it sound "absolutely horrible" if you simply disable Audyssey, and in that case may as well try direct mode? You can also still enable Audyssey, but use L/R bypass and see if it sounds better to you,
 
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It could be a bad audyssey run or it could be that you don’t like the target curve. The best way to determine which is to run a REW sweep on each and compare. Is the audyssey tune faulty or do you prefer boosted base and/or treble.
 
Thank you so much for your responses, I think I'm just gonna send it back, but I really appreciate you taking the time :)
 
IMG_5161.png


Someone just “liked” this post I made more than two years ago. Seeing this made me chuckle because I broke down and bought the X3800 for my dedicated theatre room. Would better test results give me peace of mind? Sure. But after enjoying the Denon through countless movies and series the mediocre measurements are academic. The thought of upgrading has never entered my mind.
 
^ Ha :) Like everyone here, I was quite disappointed with the DAC replacement after the AKM factory fire. However, once the discounts were available, I bought the set and have been happy with it ever since. 3800H offers tons of features and connections, and whatever the TI DAC misses in specs I can't hear anything wrong with my setup and with my hearing. I would definitely recommend adding it to anyone's shortlist at this price point.

With the Audyssey One process available, it's a remarkable set for the (discounted) price it sells for. And there's the DIRAC option if Audy is not your thing. Just my 2c, obviously
 
^ Ha :) Like everyone here, I was quite disappointed with the DAC replacement after the AKM factory fire. However, once the discounts were available, I bought the set and have been happy with it ever since. 3800H offers tons of features and connections, and whatever the TI DAC misses in specs I can't hear anything wrong with my setup and with my hearing. I would definitely recommend adding it to anyone's shortlist at this price point.

With the Audyssey One process available, it's a remarkable set for the (discounted) price it sells for. And there's the DIRAC option if Audy is not your thing. Just my 2c, obviously
X3800h = Best <$1K AVR on the market, hands down IMNSHO (sans pure SINAD chasers, and those that can't see the forest for the trees, and all that jazz). What will a 4800 or 6800 really get you? Nothing extra in my case, unless you count the extra funds left-over for speakers - the weakest link in any system! :p

($1K = Direct from Denon.com / Refurb)
 
View attachment 414063

Someone just “liked” this post I made more than two years ago. Seeing this made me chuckle because I broke down and bought the X3800 for my dedicated theatre room. Would better test results give me peace of mind? Sure. But after enjoying the Denon through countless movies and series the mediocre measurements are academic. The thought of upgrading has never entered my mind.
Thank you. This is a beautiful post worthy of it’s own thread.
 
My X3800H has been working great. But,the other day when I turned it on it displayed a firmware error and I could not turn it off. I unplugged it and it did do the update which took 45 mins. Now when it comes on it popups a notification for DIRAC every time I turn it on. I tried to turn off notifications via the unit menus but it goes back to on. The web interface is blank when I select it and a couple of other items like audio are blank. I tried other browsers and it's the same. I wonder if anyone else had this issue? I would like to go back to the firmware before since it was working OK. I have not tried to do a reset yet. I hate to lose my settings.


EDIT: I pulled the plug on it for a few mins and it seems to be working now. I guess turning it off by the front button is not the same as power off via unplugging it. When in doubt, reboot. :)
 
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