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Definitive Technology (Def Tech) BP7006/BP7004/BP7002 - BP8954MOD

Hecdtec

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Just a follow up on the external amp mod. I was having some slapping sounds when there were gunshots in the movie I was watching. Thought I blew a woofer but it was the passive radiators that could not handle the dynamic power of the new amp considering the plate amps are supposed to be 300w and the Crown XLi 1500 at 330w. The Crown seems to have more reserve power for dynamics and had to dial them down to half volume. See the video below about the conservative power ratings of the amp. So I would suggest the Crown XLi 800 instead if attempting a external amplification.

 

Zaaz76

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Hello all, I stumble on this thread looking for ways to fix my 7004. Any thoughts on just making the towers passive? Driving the entire speak with the receiver's amp. I am guessing this would be similar to Hecdtec's solution. I am a noob when it comes to speaker internal wiring and I am guessing there would be an issue with the DT 4 ohm woofer and the 8 ohm output by my receiver.

Following Hecdtec's solution any thoughts on using a Dayton Audio SA230? Its designed to run a sub and has crossovers for tweaking.
 
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datrumole

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Just a follow up on the external amp mod. I was having some slapping sounds when there were gunshots in the movie I was watching. Thought I blew a woofer but it was the passive radiators that could not handle the dynamic power of the new amp considering the plate amps are supposed to be 300w and the Crown XLi 1500 at 330w. The Crown seems to have more reserve power for dynamics and had to dial them down to half volume. See the video below about the conservative power ratings of the amp. So I would suggest the Crown XLi 800 instead if attempting a external amplification.

yeah, even with the little class D, it was SUPER easy to bottom out the passive radiator. can't speak to the actual capabilities of the stock amp, but i highly doubt the ratings they gave

Hello all, I stumble on this thread looking for ways to fix my 7004. Any thoughts on just making the towers passive? Driving the entire speak with the receiver's amp. I am guessing this would be similar to Hecdtec's solution. I am a noob when it comes to speaker internal wiring and I am guessing there would be an issue with the DT 4 ohm woofer and the 8 ohm output by my receiver.

Following Hecdtec's solution any thoughts on using a Dayton Audio SA230? Its designed to run a sub and has crossovers for tweaking.

yes, the only thing we are talking about with all of this, is that we are replacing an amp for an amp. if you put the amp in the tower, cool, if you keep the amp outside, cool too. in the end, we are just replacing amplification

the only thing that changes is if you keep it external to the tower, you just need new binding posts to get the wire internal to the cabinet

other than that, all solutions are doing the exact same thing. you can run the dayton SA230 and just have the LFE from your AVR feed it
 

Rhett151

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Datrumole great write up I’m sure you have helped a ton of people fix there speaker thanks for taking the time.
looking to fix my bp7006s wondering isf this amp from Amazon would fit the build and if the you could also control the volume ?

DollaTek Super Power Digital Power Amplifier Board TDA8954 core Dual 210W+210W Power Supply 12-28V​

 
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datrumole

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Datrumole great write up I’m sure you have helped a ton of people fix there speaker thanks for taking the time.
looking to fix my bp7006s wondering isf this amp from Amazon would fit the build and if the you could also control the volume ?

DollaTek Super Power Digital Power Amplifier Board TDA8954 core Dual 210W+210W Power Supply 12-28V​

hey, that was the hope, glad i could help

so there are a couple of ways to 'control the volume'

at the end of the day, we are looking to reduce the voltage on the signal line that gets to the amplifier. you can do that in the analogue world with pots (potentiometers), which are a series of resistors that lower the voltage (sometimes called attenuators). or you can do that in the digital world prior to creating the analogue voltage/signal, say via the AVR or some sort of DAC with volume control

on my module in the original post, there is no onboard pot/volume control because the volume is handled at the AVR, it handles how much voltage to put on the LFE signal wire. since that get's calibrated with whatever AVR calibration system you have, it should set it properly and wouldnt really be needed

again in my example, you could take and run the input signal through a stand alone pot you mount in the existing hole on the plate, prior to running to the input of the amp module, voila, you now have TWO signal controls. a digital one on the AVR, and an analogue one at the pot. nice for on the fly adjustments i suppose, but doenst add anything to the system in a way as you've always had a way to control it

the amp module you've linked has an onboard pot, the only issue i see here is, if you plan on mounting inside the case, how to you intend on getting to it? unless of course you mounted it so that the pot sticks out of the plate, then go for it! one less step of finding a separate pot in my modules case

however, does it entirely need an additional 'volume control' (attenuator in this case), no. but if you feel you need one, go for it. doesnt really hurt anything. it makes for quick adjustments which i'm sure some people miss. just harder to level match them once you start fiddling with them independently
 

Rhett151

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83CD5B3A-9B40-4C51-BBAB-7F85F97D9FCF.png
Got it one last question the lte input line on the amp I got has 3 leads I see yours only has 2 it has red white and black which ones are going where on the rca input and which one do I not use ?
 
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datrumole

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hmm, it may appear you purchased the 2ch version, not a mono version, so it's expecting a R and L input

you can ????likely???? put the same input to both the L and R input wire, and then bi-amp the module + on L or - on R on the output side, but i'd need to look up which is which
 

Rhett151

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hopefully not it says mono ?
 

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datrumole

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Got it one last question the lte input line on the amp I got has 3 leads I see yours only has 2 it has red white and black which ones are going where on the rca input and which one do I not use ?
you may want to cancel that order, looks a little trickier than just running the outputs opposite one another

the original post had the mono modules which have this all done already for you

you CAN keep these stereo modules and just use one output as well

1645739444585.png
 

Rhett151

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4211D990-5BED-451A-AFB4-6095DCBCB04C.png
I don’t see the original board available for some time, I’m new to this so forgive if I have dumb questions the board I got is not in fact a mono board ? Like the item description says and I only see one output ?
 
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datrumole

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View attachment 188930I don’t see the original board available for some time, I’m new to this so forgive if I have dumb questions the board I got is not in fact a mono board ? Like the item description says and I only see one outpu
sorry, I didn't see the second pic

def a confusing board

it does list mono, it does have a single output

but on the underside of the board, one of the pics does show inputL gnd inputR

so perhaps it's a board the reuse for mono and stereo versions, I can't say

try only powering R and L independently, and then run it to both and see if there is any difference in output

use a multi meter or something
 

6th0

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Hey man! Loved the write-up, went ahead and tried this myself with a BP7004. To my surprise I didn't break everything lol. However I am getting a ton of ground noise (i think) when the amp is on with nothing connected. If i connect to a source, the hum gets lower but is still quite noticeable. Any tips?

Thanks!
Did you replace the 6800uf, 100V caps? If so, what part number did you use?
 

6th0

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we all start somewhere!

not gonna lie, that shit was a hard ass repair. i'm a fairly seasoned solder-er, but never had i done any surface mount soldering, just through hole. managed to overhead the SMD caps and the pads pulled off (stuff i didnt even know existed when i went into it). it was a nightmare and frustrating, ended up having to find the nearest through hole that corresponded to the pad i knocked out. i'm more surprised it turned on after i was done more so than anything

OK, so I tried this fix and like you, knocked off a ton of copper pads. How did you "find the nearest hole that corresponded to the pad" and stick an SMD in it? What a mess!
 
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datrumole

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OK, so I tried this fix and like you, knocked off a ton of copper pads. How did you "find the nearest hole that corresponded to the pad" and stick an SMD in it? What a mess!
in some cases thats not feasible, i just followed the line that lead to the pad, some times that originated at a throughole mount, in other cases, it did not, got lucky for the few pads i f'd up had that so i was able to use it
 

6th0

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I haven't soldered since high school, so I made quite the damned mess. It looks like a took out a couple of traces, too, so even if I were to scrape away the silkscreen I wouldn't have a trace to connect to.

Instead, I'm just going to disconnect the amps from the subs, replace the quick connector on the black and white sub wires with a spade connector, and screw it to the binding post, making the whole thing passive.

If I decided to stick a crossover into it, any particular one from Parts Express or similar vendor anybody would recommend? EDIT: Actually, since this is going into a home theatre with a sub I can assign the crossover at the receiver level.
 
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datrumole

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I haven't soldered since high school, so I made quite the damned mess. It looks like a took out a couple of traces, too, so even if I were to scrape away the silkscreen I wouldn't have a trace to connect to.

Instead, I'm just going to disconnect the amps from the subs, replace the quick connector on the black and white sub wires with a spade connector, and screw it to the binding post, making the whole thing passive.

If I decided to stick a crossover into it, any particular one from Parts Express or similar vendor anybody would recommend? EDIT: Actually, since this is going into a home theatre with a sub I can assign the crossover at the receiver level.
correct, just run the LFE from your receiver off a Y cable. feed that into an external amp and run the subs on the LFE. trying to get the sub driver to integrate with the upper array would be a nightmare with passive components as you'd likely need to modify the existing crossover as well
 
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