My limburger ones did the same, and they smelled bad, too.I tried cheddar capacitors once. I don't know about time smearing, but they start to smell bad in time.
My limburger ones did the same, and they smelled bad, too.I tried cheddar capacitors once. I don't know about time smearing, but they start to smell bad in time.
You know so much about the topic that any mistake is completely forgotten.Thank you for pointing out the mistake!
This is the second time that I have confused
cardioiddipole withdipolecardioid (also in the OB pitfall thread).
I'm probably at the age now where I need a counselor to take away my keyboard when I write such nonsense.
As someone unskilled at soldering and using DIY to learn about circuits, I was just thinking about this yesterday when I finished-ish a project. I briefly considered how I could measure the device to see just how much my bad soldering job degraded the signal, but decided to just move on as I’m not planning on using the project for anything other than education and skill building.As I went to do some soldering recently for another project, I realized that Danny’s mods almost always require soldering (certainly any that adds tube connectors). Soldering is not a skill that many folks (notably younger ones) have. If so, this likely severely limits the market for these upgrades. If you are not skilled at soldering, you may just create a bigger mess than you are fixing. It is even less likely that most folks are equipped to verify a suggested mod was done correctly…
As someone unskilled at soldering and using DIY to learn about circuits, I was just thinking about this yesterday when I finished-ish a project. I briefly considered how I could measure the device to see just how much my bad soldering job degraded the signal, but decided to just move on as I’m not planning on using the project for anything other than education and skill building.
Previously I did build custom crossovers for an old set of speakers. Again mostly for educational reasons. I did before and after measurements and my crossovers did measurably better than the old ones, smoothing the frequency response and gaining me about 5dB in headroom for my PEQ. No change in distortion. But I couldn’t really hear a difference.
So I guess I’m wondering, given your comment, just how bad a soldering job would have to be to have audible degradation without causing the circuit to fail?
No more Danny clickbait for me.
Jim
He’s still using a circa 1998 Clio PCI card based measurement system running on a 486. And a VGA cable connecting to the CRT monitor.
Oh, he knows. The viewers' money is not in Danny's pocket...yet.Danny really cannot tell what sort of ”defect” he may be “fixing”.
Ok, I’ll share as I plugged my nose, muted the sound and used closed captioning…
This latest Jamo video appears to be an rehash of the first one. Danny simply leaves out the ugly output mismatch from the earlier one. Looks to have been done to allow him to post the upgrade kit.
His accent is the best thing about his videos.Ok, I’ll share as I plugged my nose, muted the sound and used closed captioning…
This latest Jamo video appears to be an rehash of the first one. Danny simply leaves out the ugly output mismatch from the earlier one. Looks to have been done to allow him to post the upgrade kit.
His accent is the best thing about his videos.
I did watch the first ten minutes and he does talk some sense until he gets into criticising the brass binding posts, use of steel screws, and that the inductors are only glued to the board and could 'fly off' - and then I started losing interest.
And that...And that he can't tell the difference between metal (magnesium) and plastic cone on the Seas Excel driver..
He can't even do his own research:And that he can't tell the difference between metal (magnesium) and plastic cone on the Seas Excel driver..
He makes a big deal out of the OEM drivers supplied by Seas, just shows he has no idea what he is talking about. The frames look like the cast frames on early Seas Excel drivers, (non-magnetic so he should be happy, right?) The cones are magnesium, just like Seas made them. I watched him flailing the wires around worried about all sorts of things, did he ever address dry ferrofluid in this video?The woofer is a 6 1/2 inch cone driver in a vented enclosure, with the port on the rear of the cabinet. Formed of die-cast magnesium (very light and rigid), the cone is suspended by a natural rubber surround. Instead of the usual dust cap, there is a solid copper phase plug (resembling the front of an artillery shell or missile) extending forward from the center of the woofer's magnet structure. According to the manufacturer, the advantage of this feature is improved efficiency and more effective removal of heat from the magnet system. The woofer frame is also made of die-cast magnesium, which is said to provides superior rigidity and better control of the speaker's magnetic field than other materials.
Really is a broad question as you could use too little solder, too much solder, too little heat, etc. If the solder joints seem mechanically solid and the test for zero resistance, can be pretty sure they are not going to affect the sound. Loose joints can cause distortion and of course open connections are likely to have obvious audible issues with frequency response. Cold solder joints can add resistance and might be more difficult to detect. These problems would be easier to hear with test tones if you do not have a mic. Even better if you have some known baseline to use or compare one speaker with another.