D10s, piCorePlayer, Qobuz and Genelec interactions

[Sprint]

It's possible to shut down power to USB ports on the Pi using something like uhubctl. The problem will be how to integrate this nicely with piCorePlayer so that it all just works nicely. It's probably worth asking over at the squeezebox forum in case anyone's tried it already. It may be easier to use one of the remote power options like the RemotePi to shut the whole thing down - that one is at least well documented.

Thanks! I will give it a try. Or should I do an upgrade to RPI4 and use this remote to power off the PI. I get a better USB + the remote.

 

[somebodyelse]

That remote is like a wireless keyboard with a small number of keys. It can't do power control, so as far as I know you'd still have to physically power cycle the Pi to boot it again, the same as if you did a shutdown through the web interface. You could put something in the shutdown script to power down the USB for the D10 though - I had been assuming you'd be wanting to power up remotely. The remote might be nice if you plan on using a screen too. I've not tried any of the remotes with piCorePlayer, but I gather it's useful to have one with play and pause buttons.
None of this needs a Pi 4, but don't let that put you off if you want something else to play with

 

[Sprint]

That remote is like a wireless keyboard with a small number of keys. It can't do power control, so as far as I know you'd still have to physically power cycle the Pi to boot it again, the same as if you did a shutdown through the web interface. You could put something in the shutdown script to power down the USB for the D10 though - I had been assuming you'd be wanting to power up remotely. The remote might be nice if you plan on using a screen too. I've not tried any of the remotes with piCorePlayer, but I gather it's useful to have one with play and pause buttons.
None of this needs a Pi 4, but don't let that put you off if you want something else to play with

I saw a power button on the remote and hence I thought may be it is powering up the PI .

Yesterday, I did an extended listening session. The PI3 and Topping D10s amazes me on the clarity and bass compared to my AVR. All looks good just that I am looking for the last bit of perfection. Here are my observations.

1. Still hear a mini second break in the audio signal now and then apart from a crack. Moreover hear a strange crackle when using software volume. but it is just for the moment, when the finger is on the volume bar.

2. The sound is very clear but it is still a bit harsh (5-10% compared to my AVR sound). I saw a you tube video from John Darko and he was referring to the sound also bit harsh and it went away when he used a HAT from Allo..I guess it was Allo signature. So my question is that if a RPI 4/D10 combo or a RPI 3 - AES/EBU hat or SPIDF HAT instead of D10s would make the sound more smoother. What do you think? I do not necessarily need RPI 4 but if it gets me to the last mile of perfection, I do not mind spending another 50 bugs comparing to other investments I already made in my set up (finance minister already approved it ) .

3. do you think a transformer like this will improve the harshness? Since I am running this SPIDF - AES cable

4. in the Squeezebox forums, it was mentioned that I need to do another setting card control apart from "Close output setting - Set idle time before Squeezelite closes output (-C)". I did that but still no luck. I will now raise a post in squeezebox forum.

5. I haven't configured my 2 12" SVS subs in this set up. I wanted to first try without subs. Do you think the audio will get smoother with the use of subs?

Thanks again.

 

[somebodyelse]

1. If it's the USB pop/click issue previously mentioned then a Pi 4 and/or a hat style digital output should get rid of it. I can't give any certainty that it is that issue though.
2, 3 - I'd expect no change to harshness if you did a controlled test. If you do a sighted test you'll probably prefer one or the other, which you might regard as a win, or 50 bucks worth of fun. Worst case you've got a pi to use for another project - a streamer for another room perhaps?
4. What was the other one they suggested? I hope they can help you, and please report back if you find anything.
5. Hard to say - perhaps because of the difficulty describing what we hear. To me when it's right it's the same, but it plays deeper. You've got to set them up sometime, so why not now? Are you planning on using any sort of room EQ?

 

[Sprint]

1. If it's the USB pop/click issue previously mentioned then a Pi 4 and/or a hat style digital output should get rid of it. I can't give any certainty that it is that issue though.
2, 3 - I'd expect no change to harshness if you did a controlled test. If you do a sighted test you'll probably prefer one or the other, which you might regard as a win, or 50 bucks worth of fun. Worst case you've got a pi to use for another project - a streamer for another room perhaps?
4. What was the other one they suggested? I hope they can help you, and please report back if you find anything.
5. Hard to say - perhaps because of the difficulty describing what we hear. To me when it's right it's the same, but it plays deeper. You've got to set them up sometime, so why not now? Are you planning on using any sort of room EQ?

Thanks again for helping. I love ASR for great members like you always helping and being patient with someone like me posting so many questions .

1,2, 3: I was first thinking I will just go for a PI4. Try it with D10s and see how it sounds. I can always add a HAT in the future. On the other hand, I love D10s because it shows the sample rate. When I get a HAT, I will will move the D10 to the listening room to replace Steinberg UR22 usb interface. I assume D10s will be better than stein berg. In addition I can use the DAC fo D10 to use with LD x7s00 PA amps in my listening room which has a DIY open baffle speakers. I will then give away PI3 to my son who can use it for his school projects or as a streamer in his room. He will only be happy.

5. Yes, I currently use miniDSP DDRC24 with DIRAC Live to correct my subwoofers. The Genelecs are corrected via the GLM room correction software. At the moment, for the digital signals into miniDSP I have not switched on DIRAC or even miniDSP. But thats my next weekend project to complete measurements for digital signal into miniDSP. However the miniDSP is already in use for analog signals from AVR for movies.

 

[threni]

Thanks! I will give it a try. Or should I do an upgrade to RPI4 and use this remote to power off the PI. I get a better USB + the remote.

You might decide you never want to power off the Pi. Possibly you might want to get the stuff connected to the Pi to power down, and maybe that's possible by powering down the USB ports. So maybe you could use a remote for that.

 

[somebodyelse]

@threni Instructions on the best way to do that on piCorePlayer would probably be appreciated.

Interesting looking speakers. I've only seen docs for GLM and Dirac - I imagine using them together could get...interesting. There's a reddit thread about adding spdif output to the DDRC24 but it involves some delicate soldering.

 

[threni]

@threni Instructions on the best way to do that on piCorePlayer would probably be appreciated.

I've no experience of piCorePlayer. I did fiddle around a little with remote control on the Pi (using the remote which came with my Topping E30 DAC) but it would be extra experimentation to see if it's possible to control the USB ports via piCorePlayer. I seem to recall people here talking about it, so it might be ok, so assuming one could do so via a command/script, then calling that script when a button on a remote shouldn't be too hard. I've already done this on Raspberry Pi OS; I'm not sure how easy it is to do the same thing on piCorePlayer as it's a pretty minimal OS. My notes on what I did are here: https://poldieblog.blogspot.com/2020/12/remote-control-of-mpd-on-raspberry-pi-i.html