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Curious about passive subwoofers – who’s using them and how?

Kings of passive subs are car-audio stuff.
I got one (horrible to look at, carpeted, plexi on the front) as a gift when got my car.

You can can find them for beer money in general, and judging by this one they seem to handle lots of power.
(I have played with it to its limits fed by an ice1200as2, mostly to see how far around the house is audible)
 
Using this thread to ask: is there any passive & sealed subwoofer that has been tested by ASR, and/or for which an anechoic EQ has been calculated by Maiky or Pierre (spinorama.org)?

I think having a starting EQ setup based on professionally performed measurements is really a value added. Thanks!
 
LF78 said:
Using this thread to ask: is there any passive & sealed subwoofer that has been tested by ASR, and/or for which an anechoic EQ has been calculated by Maiky or Pierre (spinorama.org)?

I think having a starting EQ setup based on professionally performed measurements is really a value added. Thanks!
Click to expand...
I think Amir only tested one or maybe two subwoofers. If I remember correctly. Understandable if you are alone and have to carry the heavy subwoofer lumps. Plus possibly receiving and sending them in packages is cumbersome......and so on.

Better then with several willing hands carrying (who maybe also bring their own subwoofer) and then you gather in an open field and test and measure, like here::)

Nuyes

'I measured 10 subwoofers.'

Hi, it's been a while!
I would like to thank the people who made this project possible on a scale never before imagined in South Korea. I measured a total of 10 subwoofers, including my own DIY subwoofer(L26RO4Y), and measured them to the CEA-2010 standard using a Klippel TBM module. Below are photos and a list of the subwoofers I measured.

1698458084.jpg


(In order from left to right)

- Arendal 1961 1V

- Arendal 1961 1S

- Neumann KH750

- Bowers & Wilkins DB4S

- SVS SB-3000

- SVS SB-2000 pro

- SVS SB-1000 pro

- Polk audio...
  • Like

Subwoofer measurement can be done by anyone who has: A measurement microphone, measurement software, knowledge of how to measure plus access to a large enough open field on a rain-free day. :)
Subwoofer measurement does not need to be done in an anechoic chamber or via Klippel measurement equipment.
 
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I run dual Eminence NSW6021's in my system. Both in sealed cabinet of around 140L each. QSC PL380 (5000wrms) for power. The whole system including the amp cost me around £4.5k. For the level of performance I'm getting, I would need to spend around 10k commercial to match. I've attached the in-room response as well as the distortion in room at 110db. You can see they are still fairly clean even at these levels.
 

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Very impressive subwoofers you have there @montyliam :)

OT:
I take back what I said about sealed vs ported subwoofers in my #9. If you get the FR, SPL you want with low distortion then a sealed should be preferable given the problems or challenges that a ported may have.
But I shouldn't generalize. Besides, there are already quite a few threads about sealed vs ported here on ASR. Maybe it's better to discuss that topic in one of them? :) For example:

Paul McNeil

'Sealed versus Ported Bass, can the difference be measured?'

I recently replaced three ported Klipsch THX 120 subs, stacked in one corner of the room, with a SVS Ultra SB-17. In the other corner are two SVS Ultra 13 cylinders operating not in the sealed mode. Previously these SVS cylinders and the Klipsch operated in the ported mode. Now, with the sealed arrangement, the REW measurement is good (attached), I think, but similar to that of the previous all-ported mode. EQ is by Dirac with Bass control via a Marantz AV10.

But can I get subjective, not only does the bass have more more convincing detail but the detail is better all around, both for...

S

'Sealed smaller subs better for music?'

Is there any science or consensus to this statement to support it?

Larger diameter ported subs seems to be marketed towards home theatre crowd (understandably so) but are hifi music people loosing out on anything assuming with them?

C

'Sealed vs Ported Sub'

I have a DIY sub using a JBL GTO 1014D.

It was well made, with internal bracing, a flat response and well adjusted port.

I was looking some Dynaudio and Revel subs that are sealed and I decided to try mine in that mode.

My sub is playing up to 40 Hz, and above that I have a pair of Revel M105 (since I only hear at low SPL, I preferred to use my sub just to extend the bass response).



First of all I measured my sub with the port open and I made it sealed using two T-Shirts closing the port . I got a sealed speaker with a Qtc = 0,6.



I measured again and adjusted the gain until...
 
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In addition to what has been mentioned one reason I switched from active subs (SVS SB 3000) to DIY passive subs is because the DSP on most active subs causes huge integration problems and for the most part can not be disabled. First off most small sealed DSP subs boost LF to advertise unrealistic numbers and then are forced to use a steep high pass filter to prevent self destruction which causes large group delay. Then the DSP adds a large amount of latency which must be compensated for by delaying the mains. The combination of the boost and high pass and the latency really mess up the impulse response which makes trying to time align the subs either automatically with DIRAC or manually with waveletts or impulse response VERY difficult and unreliable. I now have control of all the DSP with no latency and integration is a breeze.
 
levimax said:
In addition to what has been mentioned one reason I switched from active subs (SVS SB 3000) to DIY passive subs is because the DSP on most active subs causes huge integration problems and for the most part can not be disabled. First off most small sealed DSP subs boost LF to advertise unrealistic numbers and then are forced to use a steep high pass filter to prevent self destruction which causes large group delay. Then the DSP adds a large amount of latency which must be compensated for by delaying the mains. The combination of the boost and high pass and the latency really mess up the impulse response which makes trying to time align the subs either automatically with DIRAC or manually with waveletts or impulse response VERY difficult and unreliable. I now have control of all the DSP with no latency and integration is a breeze.
Click to expand...
Then the DSP adds a large amount of latency...
Check here, why this difference in latency? In the same price range, these two subwoofers:SVS SB 3000 ( 5.5-6 ms delay) and KEF KC62 (0.5 ms delay).

Also, considering that SVS is a well-known and well-reputed manufacturer, why haven't they solved this latency problem?

AI summaries, but they are largely based on threads from ASR:
Screenshot_2025-09-12_003231.jpgScreenshot_2025-09-12_003214.jpg
 
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Why passive? Mainly the cost. I wanted more power and though a great and capable sub, my svs 1000 pro was lacking power for the moments i played some track really loud and wanted that chest punch. Commercially an upgrade would end up being several thousand euro.

Setup: i upgraded the single svs to two Dayton Ultimax 15" sealed box 85 liters. That was louder but lacked control. Now I upgraded those to 2 Skram ported horns with 2 B&C 21 inch DS115 and driven by a Behringer inuke 6000 on stereo. Minidsp handles the xo.

Usercase: strictly music. I like movies but i dont feel any need for big explosion rumble. I play Jazz, funk, 80s club, sometimes techno or house, new wave, alt rock, prog rick, classic rock, blues, 50s bebop, 60s rock n roll, reggea, classic (bach, mahler) and so i use 2 or 3 spec configs on the minidsp. Usually LR but BW occasionally.

Amp: see above.

Good n bad: good: i now have exactly the type of sub i wanted. Its PA grade (well, it is PA) and the Skram design lets you change the cab tuning by closing one or more ports. 3 ports closed is 17hz which ill never need. All ports open is still 28hz. Its chest punch much more defined. The bad: i dont know. Is there a bad? They are big and some people have (waf) problems but they are in my mancave/studio/office. They are heavy. They are so heavy you need to take out the speakers to get them up n down stairs. That said, the Skram design is the smallest, the least height ocvupying PA cab I could find. The other bad: this design was so complicated i needed a cnc shop. Then i needed the original drawings. It took 2 or 3 months of planning to make it happen. And, in the end, it costed nearly 3000 euros ex amp. But, I now have a system that commercial subwoofers you either need 4 of them, or Martin Audio or Function One, or maybe Danley (above 10000). GSG makes flat pack devastators but none is lower than 100cm where the Skram is 81cm high. And NONE of them have 4 configurations to choose from. Mine is made of the very best birch plywood where most former, are all mdf. I think gsg offers birch plywood option.

If you want ease of use and just plug n play: buy active svs or Harbottle, or anything in between. If you are a true basshead: go passive and do extensive research what it is you want exactly.
 
troye said:
Hey everyone,

I’ve been seeing that while most people go with active subs these days, there are still quite a few who stick with passive subwoofers. I’m really curious to learn from those of you who use them.

A few things I’d love to hear about:
  • Why passive? What made you choose a passive sub over an active one? (flexibility with amps/DSP, reliability, DIY, cost, etc.)
  • Your setup – Which passive subwoofer(s) are you running, and what amp do you pair them with?
  • Use cases – Do you mainly use it for home theater, music, gaming, or a mix?
  • Amps – For using dedicated subwoofer amps, which features do you find essential (power output, filters, phase, DSP, auto on/off, trigger, etc.) and which ones are just nice-to-have?
  • Good and bad – what’s been great (or frustrating) about today’s subwoofer amps?
I’m not looking for measurements or lab-style analysis (though always welcome on ASR!), but more your personal experiences and what you’ve learned from using passive subs in the real world.

Looking forward to hearing your setups and lessons learned — I feel like this is an area where shared experiences can really help others considering the same path.
Click to expand...
I am new to this forum and would appreciate any help in finding a passive subwoofer (and especially instructions on how to convert a powered sub to passive) for my 1982 vintage stereo system that has been recently restored. In 1982 I purchased a Yamaha A-1 amp, NS-10M speakers, turntable and a Visonik HiFi passive subwoofer for listening to vinyl records. Around 2000 I packed it away (young kids) and during a later move, the subwoofer was lost. The system is now restored and operational, with a 12" powered sub using speaker level inputs/outputs to the NS-10s. I've tried Klipsch and Polk powered subs, but find that I cannot control the bass level (it's either booming or not there depending on the record being played) and would like to go back to a passive sub, which always sounded great to my ears. I'm an advanced woodworker but novice with audio gear. (I built the cabinets in the attached photos and did all the wiring, etc. Left side contains my current home theater gear. Right side is my vintage Yamaha system. Subs for each system are inside the cabinets) I can follow directions and solder. I would be grateful for any help! Thanks!
 

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gpan218 said:
I am new to this forum and would appreciate any help in finding a passive subwoofer (and especially instructions on how to convert a powered sub to passive) for my 1982 vintage stereo system that has been recently restored. In 1982 I purchased a Yamaha A-1 amp, NS-10M speakers, turntable and a Visonik HiFi passive subwoofer for listening to vinyl records. Around 2000 I packed it away (young kids) and during a later move, the subwoofer was lost. The system is now restored and operational, with a 12" powered sub using speaker level inputs/outputs to the NS-10s. I've tried Klipsch and Polk powered subs, but find that I cannot control the bass level (it's either booming or not there depending on the record being played) and would like to go back to a passive sub, which always sounded great to my ears. I'm an advanced woodworker but novice with audio gear. (I built the cabinets in the attached photos and did all the wiring, etc. Left side contains my current home theater gear. Right side is my vintage Yamaha system. Subs for each system are inside the cabinets) I can follow directions and solder. I would be grateful for any help! Thanks!
Click to expand...
I have built some subs from GSG "flat packs" and have been very happy. They are precision CNC cut with good designs and lots of bracing. Worth a look https://shop.gsgad.com/
 
anotherhobby said:
I run 4 passive 8" Dayton Ultimax subs for my office stereo paired with some Revel M105s. I went with passive subs strictly because of DIY, where I needed very compact subs of unique shapes to fit into my small 10'x10' space. This is what I ended up building:

View attachment 475299

They are powered by a pair of Crown XL1500 amps, with each sub getting it's own ~500w channel. The amps were bought used off ebay for $250 each, so amplification was only $125 per sub. DSP is handled by a miniDSP Flex with Dirac Live, with 2 outputs going to a t.racks DSP 4x4 Mini, which feeds the 4 subs. The subs are paired up as front/rear L and front/rear R, with the t.racks only being used to set delay between front and rear.

Post calibration measurements for both channels are pretty good for a 10x10' room. Since they are only 8" subs, this curve holds to about 100 dB and then starts compressing, which is more than enough for nearfield in my office.

View attachment 475302
Click to expand...
How did you make them so damn pretty?
 
gpan218 said:
I am new to this forum and would appreciate any help in finding a passive subwoofer (and especially instructions on how to convert a powered sub to passive) for my 1982 vintage stereo system that has been recently restored. In 1982 I purchased a Yamaha A-1 amp, NS-10M speakers, turntable and a Visonik HiFi passive subwoofer for listening to vinyl records. Around 2000 I packed it away (young kids) and during a later move, the subwoofer was lost. The system is now restored and operational, with a 12" powered sub using speaker level inputs/outputs to the NS-10s. I've tried Klipsch and Polk powered subs, but find that I cannot control the bass level (it's either booming or not there depending on the record being played) and would like to go back to a passive sub, which always sounded great to my ears. I'm an advanced woodworker but novice with audio gear. (I built the cabinets in the attached photos and did all the wiring, etc. Left side contains my current home theater gear. Right side is my vintage Yamaha system. Subs for each system are inside the cabinets) I can follow directions and solder. I would be grateful for any help! Thanks!
Click to expand...
If I were you I would sell the active subs and build my own passive subs. Part Express has a variety of good subwoofer drivers, and they tell you what volume of cabinet would be appropriate for each model. Build your own cabinet or buy one of their flat packs.
 
Probably the biggest space on the commercial market for passive subs, besides automotive, is in-wall. Reason is obvious: more practical to just run a speaker wire through the walls than power and signal. Plus you probably don't want an amp stuck inside a wall cavity.

Klipsch also sells a passive sub as part of their THX Ultra 2 package.

For most people with normal setups, active subs just make sense.
 
  • Why passive? What made you choose a passive sub over an active one? (flexibility with amps/DSP, reliability, DIY, cost, etc.)
  • Your setup – Which passive subwoofer(s) are you running, and what amp do you pair them with?
  • Use cases – Do you mainly use it for home theater, music, gaming, or a mix?
  • Amps – For using dedicated subwoofer amps, which features do you find essential (power output, filters, phase, DSP, auto on/off, trigger, etc.) and which ones are just nice-to-have?
  • Good and bad – what’s been great (or frustrating) about today’s subwoofer amps?
DIY subs with external amps I have several of.

I didn't want to build plate amps into the boxes. Much preferred idea of amps to be placed where it was more convenient as well as easier build of box as an inexperienced woodworker. Also had limited power outlets in my main room.

I have built several 18s and 12s using Stereo Integrity and Infinity drivers respectively.

All uses, actually the only system I have that doesn't have video and multich, only 2ch, has no sub at this time....lazy mostly and its a room I don't use much.

I'm good mostly with good capable simple amps, prefer dsp elsewhere. I use Crown XLS 1500s

No real issues with amps, could have more powerful ones but don't need 'em, and there are those with good built in dsp, too. Depends what you want.
 
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