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Coffee - do you and how do you consume it?

pseudoid

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Letting milk residue sit in the wand is just gross.
This becomes part of the overall procedure but must be done right after frothing and not postponed.
I've gone to a single-hole (instead of 3-hole) wand and my results have inversely improved...
I thought I'd look up the price for replacement burrs for my grinder:
View attachment 233484
Those are some gnarly burrs. :p
EDIT: I just looked up that Mazzer KonyS and it seems like you can use that monster as a wood-chipper!
450Watts?o_O
 
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dfuller

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EDIT: I just looked up that Mazzer KonyS and it seems like you can use that monster as a wood-chipper!
450Watts?o_O
Yeah, the Niche is a dinky little 150W brushed DC motor. On ultra-light roasts you can actually make the thing stall (I've seen it happen!).

Also, I just bought a Eureka Atom 75 - and it has a 900 watt motor! Not entirely unexpected to be frank; big flat burrs require absurd amounts of torque and with a direct drive motor that means lots-o'-power.
 

Count Arthur

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Yeah, the Niche is a dinky little 150W brushed DC motor. On ultra-light roasts you can actually make the thing stall (I've seen it happen!).

Also, I just bought a Eureka Atom 75 - and it has a 900 watt motor! Not entirely unexpected to be frank; big flat burrs require absurd amounts of torque and with a direct drive motor that means lots-o'-power.
An 80W AC motor according to this:

1664273577161.png


I have no idea what his engineering backround is, but overall he seems fairly happy with it:

As he says at the end, the Niche is designed for home use and,unsurprisingly, isn't built to the same standard as some of the commercial grinders that cost 5 or 6 times the price.

I've had mine for about a year now and I'm very pleased with it. It seems conistant and it's reasonably quiet. My previous bean-to-cup machine made a horrible high pitched whining whilst grinding; to the extent I would press the button then leave the room until it had finished. :)
 

Soniclife

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The biggest concern he voiced in our discussion was if there was a small stone or stick that got through QC and could have damaged them
Sooner or later this will happen with coffee, I know of 2 stones that have made it into my grinders over the last 20 years, there could be others that just got ground without me knowing. I've not had burr damage when it's happened.
 

Soniclife

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I will add, regarding the Burr conversation, it had been suggested that more expensive machines will likely have a higher duty cycle on their burrs. My grinder is in the $300 range. Dude suggested when you get to the next level ($600-800) you get longer life. That was the closest to a sales pitch I had. *shrugs
Different types of steel, and any coatings applied to the burrs will affect life, some fancy burrs claim very long life, my hand gridner claims the following.
BURR - your C40 burr is extremely hard. We developed our own very special high-nitrogen alloy to ensure that your burr will last a lifetime.
 

dfuller

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An 80W AC motor according to this:

View attachment 233535

I have no idea what his engineering backround is, but overall he seems fairly happy with it:

As he says at the end, the Niche is designed for home use and,unsurprisingly, isn't built to the same standard as some of the commercial grinders that cost 5 or 6 times the price.

I've had mine for about a year now and I'm very pleased with it. It seems conistant and it's reasonably quiet. My previous bean-to-cup machine made a horrible high pitched whining whilst grinding; to the extent I would press the button then leave the room until it had finished. :)
I've checked mine - it's a DC motor :) And so is this one actually.


Anyway, yeah - the niche is built very well and quite thoughtfully. Shame it doesn't have a burr set available that is a bit more uniform in its particle distribution.
 
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pseudoid

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This
Different types of steel, and any coatings applied to the burrs will affect life,
Coatings? Really? Yum...:facepalm:
202209_50mmBurrs.jpg

I have no idea if these 50mm burrs on my Sonny grinder are high-grade or the proper metal and design.
I also have no idea if Sonny's 230Watt@1300rpm specs are good or bad.
But I do know that Sonny and I have a mutually respectful relations. :)
 

Soniclife

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Coatings? Really? Yum...:facepalm:
Most high end grinders use coatings, the Eureka @dfuller just bought has optional coatings available, burrs made by SSP and many others have a variety of different coatings available, they make them harder, and change the friction for the coffee.
 

pseudoid

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I am coatings-averse but only based on my experiences with 'coatings' that may (and do) leach out.
Coatings are a pretty clever 'protective' layer, if you are talking about paints (as coatings) on a vehicle or homes.
But as I would not consume a shot of chromate (neither stirred or shaken), I have always avoided 'coatings' (non-stick/teflon?) on cookware and utensils.
I don't much care if my food sticks to a pan but I do care if a 'coating' is gonna be a sticky issue upon swallowing it.
I have never been certain what these coatings are really protecting: Certainly not my innards, if when they chip off and enter my food-chain.
When I am in doubt, I abstain!
PFAS, anyone? :eek:
....optional coatings...
I made the mistake of purchasing a 4-figure watch that had black DLC (Diamond-Like Coating). Few years of daily use wore-off the DLC all around the edges. The watch shows no abuse, no nicks or scratches << DLC; never again!
I still haven't figured out what "Titanium coating" really does for a drill-bit, other than possibly spinning faster because - as everyone knows- titanium is lighter than steel.
Duh!
Sorry for the rant!:facepalm:
 

Count Arthur

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I am coatings-averse but only based on my experiences with 'coatings' that may (and do) leach out.
Coatings are a pretty clever 'protective' layer, if you are talking about paints (as coatings) on a vehicle or homes.
But as I would not consume a shot of chromate (neither stirred or shaken), I have always avoided 'coatings' (non-stick/teflon?) on cookware and utensils.
I don't much care if my food sticks to a pan but I do care if a 'coating' is gonna be a sticky issue upon swallowing it.
I have never been certain what these coatings are really protecting: Certainly not my innards, if when they chip off and enter my food-chain.
When I am in doubt, I abstain!
PFAS, anyone? :eek:

I made the mistake of purchasing a 4-figure watch that had black DLC (Diamond-Like Coating). Few years of daily use wore-off the DLC all around the edges. The watch shows no abuse, no nicks or scratches << DLC; never again!
I still haven't figured out what "Titanium coating" really does for a drill-bit, other than possibly spinning faster because - as everyone knows- titanium is lighter than steel.
Duh!
Sorry for the rant!:facepalm:
I've always been dubious about those coatings on drill bits etc.; surely that would just wear off the cutting edge pretty quickly.

Do they use is it for engineering stuff, milling machine bits etc., or is it more marketing nonsense for the DIY market?
 
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Soniclife

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I've always been dubious about those coatings in drill bits etc.; surely that would just wear off the cutting edge pretty quickly.
Don't know about drill bits, but platinum coated razor blades last longer than uncoated, in my unscientific testing.
 

pseudoid

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Haven't read the whole thread yet, so I hope I'm not re-posting anything. This may be interesting:
Hey BB,
I dare you to do 2 demi-tasse [=une-tasse?] shots of Turkish coffee, then comeback and tell us your auditory perception changes, that we were discussing before you rudely interrupted us.:facepalm:
 

Doodski

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I've always been dubious about those coatings on drill bits etc.; surely that would just wear off the cutting edge pretty quickly.

Do they use is it for engineering stuff, milling machine bits etc., or is it more marketing nonsense for the DIY market?
Ceramic cutting edges, cobalt and high speed steel are common and have their uses in machine shops. I've used all three extensively when wiring up/manufacturing heavy duty machinery and the cobalt in my opinion is the best all around for general use on stainless steel and T1, T2, T3 and T4 steel. I've been advised that ceramic is as good or better than cobalt but because I have only used ceramic on milling machines and lathes I'm not sure how it is for working in drills and out in the field.
 

dfuller

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Coatings? Really? Yum...:facepalm:
They're not PTFE or similar coatings, think electroplating or vapor deposition instead. Usually some kind of titanium or titanium alloy (e.g. Titanium Aluminum Nitride), or Diamond-Like Carbon coating meant to lengthen burr life with a harder top layer, as well as (with some of them) lowering surface friction - though that's a side benefit that might or might not actually do anything vs bare tool steel.
The "coating" may be an anodization or thermal/plasma spray. Seriously doubt it's an organic material.
It isn't.
 
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ryanosaur

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Didja just pull the victim card from the deck??;)
Ha. No.

But watching you guys carry on about burrs in the wake of my bringing it up is both quite satisfying... and horrifying. :p (In a good way.)

Speaking of which, all my gear got dropped as I was began typing this, so I have the Burrs, Pump, Pressure Gauge and Dezcal.

I'm gonna test pressure first, run dezcal, then test pressure again to see if anything changes. Hopefully this weekend I'll be able to start swapping parts. :D
 

Moravid

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Back then as a student made my coffee with a rebranded La Pavoni manual lever espresso machine called Gaggia Factory G106, took 20 minutes just to reach pressure and many failed tries before I'd get a decent cup. Nowadays I just buy Coles organic freeze dried coffee, a bargain at 4 AUD
 
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