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Class D amp long term reliability

Has anyone, even handy guys, tried a watercooled amp in the style of a watercooled pc?

Surely no need? The power density of a CPU must be a lot higher than power transistors?
Very few not running fans these days.
 
Surely no need? The power density of a CPU must be a lot higher than power transistors?
Very few not running fans these days.
That´s why I asked for DIY-ers. It´s the kind of overkill project someone would do. Plus you can attach RGB to your amp too, everyone knows that gives a +20 SINAD. :cool:
 
As an aside, fewer parts does not always mean more reliable or easier to repair. Bob Pease was fond of debating that with the QA team; removing protection devices reduces parts count, but is the end result really more reliable?

Power density in small high-power ICs can be very high, leading to temperature spikes and such that impair performance and reliability. Most amps run along at fairly low average power, only getting above a few watts for peaks, but other components in the amps still dissipate power, and even for class D a 100 W peak still wastes maybe 10~20 W as heat.

Another factor is rework since many parts are surface-mount requiring special tools and skill to remove and replace. And a durn good magnifier, at least in my case. ;) Add to that parts may lack identification marks (some manufacturers actually cover them to make it harder to clone their devices) and may not be available after a few years. This latter is IMO one of the biggest issues with repairing today's electronics in general; 5 to 10 years is the lifetime of many ICs, so in the future repairing a 30-year-old SMPS or amplifier module (or anything else) is likely not as simple as repairing a 30-yo class AB amplifier today. Not to say that some of us have not struggled trying to find replacement driver and output transistors for some of our dear old class A/AB amps...

FWIWFM - Don
 
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The NS-1000 had the larger timber cabinet and no woofer screen. The NS-1000 Monitor (later to just become NS-1000M) had the woofer screen. In Japan they had the NS-1000M without grilles or grille clip holes. In 1984, they released a 10 year anniversary with special gold badging.

The NS-1000X came along in (IIRC) 1990. The NS-10000 was for Yamaha's centennary.
Lots of praise for the Yamaha NS 1000. Is it worth buying a used pair today around 1200 USD? Would there be any benefit to bi-passing the crossover an tri-amping each individual driver?
 
My experience with class d is that my nad c390dd was very unreliable after the warranty period. My old Marantz sr4600 which was less than 20% the cost of the NAD has kept going for over 15 years, even if it is more complicated.
 
My experience with class d is that my nad c390dd was very unreliable after the warranty period. My old Marantz sr4600 which was less than 20% the cost of the NAD has kept going for over 15 years, even if it is more complicated.
Those kind of experiences with class d seem to be quite common among people that I know personally. I have been involved in this scene since I was a young teen in 1972 (friends where in local rock bands & I started running sound for them). Yes, I know people who blew up good class A/B amplifiers (me included). But (as far as I know, it was always a learning experience of "what not to do" [both me and the others that I knew then].
It seems like with todays class D amplifiers there is a lot of "it just stopped working for no apparent reason". Now, don't get me wrong, I think that there are a lot manufacturers & assemblers that take the time to get it right (particularly in our segment of what we look for in equipment). But it is still something that one must do some research on (and even then it could be an 'iffy' situation for longer term reliability. Many of the former "name brand standard" bearers have not brought the expertise needed to the table. And many of the ones that seem to be doing class D right seem to "here today & gone in 3 or 4 years". That loses the "tribal knowledge of those that do do it right and us (the consumer) is left to finding another company that is doing it right.
Of course, part of it is our (the consumer) own fault for expecting tiny form factors (not enough heat dissipation long term), AND inexpensive (which means (not much research on reliability because research costs money AND CHEAPENING the components used to just barely enough to get make it through the warranty period. That causes those that do it the right way to have to cut corners too, because they can't compete on price. Until us consumers get out of the mindset that we must get something for the cheapest price possible, there will be this issue in all fields (EXAMPLES: refrigerators, washing machines, air conditioners, microwaves, TV's, cars, many things don't last the 10, 15, 20 years that it used to because of competing on price alone). And then some manage to compete on prestige & make great money for a good but not great product.
It's almost like a lottery, a few win the reliability prize but most don't. Be careful & perhaps don't be an early adopter.
MY 5 class A/B NAD 2200s are good enough for me at this point. Longevity proven &:
It is power measurements where the magic of this amplifier comes to life so let's look at that with 4 ohm load first:

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We can see a kink in distortion when we hit 200 watts as the unit sails past that to produce whopping 337 watts per channel, both driven! Per design characteristics, you can have much more during momentary peaks:


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Wow, we have one kilowatt of power coming out of this amp in short duration!
Lab Input Measurements
I was surprised that the frequency response was not flat but was relieved to see later in the thread that this is due to insertion of low and high pass filters. So here is the frequency response with Lab input that doesn't have such a filter:

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Response now (in green) as it should be, ruler flat to below 10 Hz, and well extending past the 40 kHz limit of this measurement.
Zoomed:

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And signal to noise ratio:


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Conclusions
Nice to see innovation like this from equipment that is over 30 years old! Shame on manufacturers that produce amplifiers for much less power, more distortion and higher prices these days. No, you don't get a fancy case here and sheet metal is strictly budget category. But you are not going to sit on the amp. The guts are where it matters and NAD 2200 delivers.

NOTE: the output relay on stock 2200 gets corroded and fails over time. There are videos and DIY threads on how to upgrade the relay there to fix the problem. The unit tested here has that fix. Other than that, there are not reports of many other reliability issues even though NAD products are often said to be less reliable than other brands.

Overall, I am happy to recommend the NAD 2200. I almost gave it the highest honors but given the upgraded nature of the test unit, and the fact that used amps may have issues, I avoided that. But you could have easily pushed me to give it the golfing panther.
 
Those kind of experiences with class d seem to be quite common among people that I know personally. I have been involved in this scene since I was a young teen in 1972 (friends where in local rock bands & I started running sound for them). Yes, I know people who blew up good class A/B amplifiers (me included). But (as far as I know, it was always a learning experience of "what not to do" [both me and the others that I knew then].
It seems like with todays class D amplifiers there is a lot of "it just stopped working for no apparent reason". Now, don't get me wrong, I think that there are a lot manufacturers & assemblers that take the time to get it right (particularly in our segment of what we look for in equipment). But it is still something that one must do some research on (and even then it could be an 'iffy' situation for longer term reliability. Many of the former "name brand standard" bearers have not brought the expertise needed to the table. And many of the ones that seem to be doing class D right seem to "here today & gone in 3 or 4 years". That loses the "tribal knowledge of those that do do it right and us (the consumer) is left to finding another company that is doing it right.
Of course, part of it is our (the consumer) own fault for expecting tiny form factors (not enough heat dissipation long term), AND inexpensive (which means (not much research on reliability because research costs money AND CHEAPENING the components used to just barely enough to get make it through the warranty period. That causes those that do it the right way to have to cut corners too, because they can't compete on price. Until us consumers get out of the mindset that we must get something for the cheapest price possible, there will be this issue in all fields (EXAMPLES: refrigerators, washing machines, air conditioners, microwaves, TV's, cars, many things don't last the 10, 15, 20 years that it used to because of competing on price alone). And then some manage to compete on prestige & make great money for a good but not great product.
It's almost like a lottery, a few win the reliability prize but most don't. Be careful & perhaps don't be an early adopter.
MY 5 class A/B NAD 2200s are good enough for me at this point. Longevity proven &:
It is power measurements where the magic of this amplifier comes to life so let's look at that with 4 ohm load first:

index.php



We can see a kink in distortion when we hit 200 watts as the unit sails past that to produce whopping 337 watts per channel, both driven! Per design characteristics, you can have much more during momentary peaks:


index.php



Wow, we have one kilowatt of power coming out of this amp in short duration!
Lab Input Measurements
I was surprised that the frequency response was not flat but was relieved to see later in the thread that this is due to insertion of low and high pass filters. So here is the frequency response with Lab input that doesn't have such a filter:

index.php



Response now (in green) as it should be, ruler flat to below 10 Hz, and well extending past the 40 kHz limit of this measurement.
Zoomed:

index.php



And signal to noise ratio:


index.php



Conclusions
Nice to see innovation like this from equipment that is over 30 years old! Shame on manufacturers that produce amplifiers for much less power, more distortion and higher prices these days. No, you don't get a fancy case here and sheet metal is strictly budget category. But you are not going to sit on the amp. The guts are where it matters and NAD 2200 delivers.

NOTE: the output relay on stock 2200 gets corroded and fails over time. There are videos and DIY threads on how to upgrade the relay there to fix the problem. The unit tested here has that fix. Other than that, there are not reports of many other reliability issues even though NAD products are often said to be less reliable than other brands.

Overall, I am happy to recommend the NAD 2200. I almost gave it the highest honors but given the upgraded nature of the test unit, and the fact that used amps may have issues, I avoided that. But you could have easily pushed me to give it the golfing panther.
I had a similar experience 3 years ago. I bought 2 Class D mono blocks; not a major brand, but well reviewed in the audio press; One stopped working for no apparent reason. Repairs are out of the question, too expensive. Result: I would not buy a class D amp with your money.
 
I had a similar experience 3 years ago. I bought 2 Class D mono blocks; not a major brand, but well reviewed in the audio press; One stopped working for no apparent reason. Repairs are out of the question, too expensive. Result: I would not buy a class D amp with your money.
Hello,

Would say that IMHO there is better equipment is all classes/design types. Some is built with components over specified for max rating quite a lot and some push the boundaries of the specs to save money. Some has much better cooling as well. Saying any one type of design is good or bad is just saying nothing meaningful. Buy quality and likely you will be happy for a long time regardless of the type.
 
Hello,

Would say that IMHO there is better equipment is all classes/design types. Some is built with components over specified for max rating quite a lot and some push the boundaries of the specs to save money. Some has much better cooling as well. Saying any one type of design is good or bad is just saying nothing meaningful. Buy quality and likely you will be happy for a long time regardless of the type.
Well; the much maligned Carver amps are still doing great 30 years later; that IS saying something.
 
Bear in mind, we only ever rent stuff, when all is said and done...

And when good tech changes come, you can be agile, as the benefits come less painfully if you are not over-invested in the past.

Now, where did I stow that top-of-the-range Betamax? :)
 
Planned obsolescence is another conspiracy theory that tends to consider engineers as better than what they are.
It is already hard to design HW to not fail before some time while staying in the target costs. Do one really think that R&D budget will be spent to have stuff failing on purpose after a specified duration?
1. I have had to replace Internet Radios that worked great for a few years and then the Internet Radio Station Aggregation Server "Reciva", owned/operated by the mega-company Qualcomm, was "discontinued" leaving a dearth of Internet Radios dead. The radio hardware was perfectly good but they can no longer connect to the 10K+ stations on the server, as the server is now gone. Tons of great radios became bricks.

2. I have had to replace several perfectly good Carbon Monoxide Detectors because they operated a clock inside them to make them inoperative at a pre-set number of hours of operation "for my safety". I know for a fact they would detect CO just fine for twice that time period, but had to buy new ones and was without any protection while waiting to obtain the replacements. The internal clock literally starts ticking when you first put a battery in it, and then when it gets to the programmed number of hours it fails with an error code that says to replace it. I have had other CO detector models made by the same manufacturer before the addition of the hour counter planned obsolescence feature was incorporated, and they still work fine at twice the life of the dead ones that timed out - and as validated by my CO sample spray test (the only real test).

3. The expensive telescope maker Celestion had a wonderful product called the "Sky Scout" and every one of them failed at a pre-determined date based on a calendar date on the GPS unit. It was a very cool unit that looked like a spotting scope you could sight at any celestial object, and with its internal GPS, inclinometer, and magnetic flux compass, it would tell you what celestial object you are looking at. It was a very expensive product and then POOF it was suddenly dead. There is no way to input coordinates, so they are all bricks.

4. Many years of Honda CRV Nav/Info-tainment Systems had their clocks go dead the beginning of this year due to some programming issue with the GPS epoch calendar. Now every time you start the car the big display on the dash says January 1st at 4:00 PM. The clock keeps time until you turn it off, and then it starts over at January 1st at 4:00 PM. Ground-Hog Day...

Hardware that includes Software clearly has the ability to stop working whenever the programmer wants, or because the programmer didn't know how to make the calendar work beyond some future date and the company's QC was deficient in protecting the customer of an expensive device from $hitty programming.
 
Planned obsolescence is another conspiracy theory that tends to consider engineers as better than what they are.
It is already hard to design HW to not fail before some time while staying in the target costs. Do one really think that R&D budget will be spent to have stuff failing on purpose after a specified duration?
I wouldn't say that it is necessarily a conspiracy, I would say that some do by omission or ineptness (perhaps not doing real R & D or good R & D) & others look at a bigger picture (more sales by word of mouth from building a great, reliable product). From what I know of your products (from friends that live in Germany, Austria & Italy), you and your products work very well for as long as anyone I know has had them. And I particularly like the auto on circuit that some of your amps have. If I had the need today, there would be one class A/B amp in consideration, your class D and one other class D in the consideration pool. Barring accidents or disease...I may need another set of amps in the future. And no one in contention is one of the large, old school manufacturers (NAD is obviously not a consideration for me for a future amp purchase).
 
But let's get back to the OP's question shall we? I have an 18 month old Hypex NC-252MP sitting here on my bench. Dead. Built 41st week of 2019. Sent to me by an ASR member to investigate why it failed as it had a very easy life in a multichannel amplifier. The brand and the member will stay anonymous as he was very happy with their customer service in rapidly rectifying the situation to his satisfaction.

Let's have a quick visual inspection to see if anything stands out.
View attachment 147422

I can immediately see some very dodgy hand soldering on the SMPS primary side switching transistors and some of the output MOSFETS, because these are the parts done by humans. Regardless, it should have never left the factory with soldering this poor. I think I am onto something:
View attachment 147423

Also, the board is clearly under a lot of strain (it bends) due to the screwing down of the PCB to the heat-spreader near the heat producing SMPS switchers:
View attachment 147425

The board bends enough to be 0.76mm out of alignment and the devices are no longer firmly pressed against the heat spreader:
View attachment 147426
The screws are also too far away from the devices and the impregnated heat transfer pad is too thick. (approx device package positions marked in red). They should not be using distantly mounted fixing/screw points and relying on the flexible PCB to maintain adequate device to heatsink contact. This is bad design 101.
View attachment 147424

First of all, let's dismantle the sucker and remove the heat-spreading aluminium plate and have a look-see:
View attachment 147427
Yes, you guessed it! It's gone fully Chernobyl!

Vaporised SMD components hanging off the primary side SMPS switching transistors. Basically, The board flexes under pressure (from the squishy "thermal" pad), so the transistors (FETs) are not adequately thermally coupled any longer to the aluminium spreader. They eventually fail from over heating (these particular devices are both internally shorted) and they take out some associated components around them:
View attachment 147428

View attachment 147429

A real mess. There's even a poor SMD transistor with its package cover blown right off. You can see the junction components! And a nice vaporized resistor or two, along with those poor MOSFETs that gave up due to their inability to get rid of heat.

All due to inadequately or properly mounting (you know, with screws, nuts and washers) and heatsinking the transistors. Hypex are simply squashing the devices against the aluminium plate, using plenty of PCBs screws and a foam heat pad, but not considering PCB material deforms under heat and pressure over a (short) period of time.

In my opinion, all the NC-252MPs will likely suffer the same fate in years to come, if this key section is not revised. Not remotely good engineering at all and certainly not likely to last the length of time customers deserve.

Apart from this glaring design fault, the rest of the board is of good quality. The components are adequate and very nicely laid out. I do not like TO220 heat producing devices squashed under pressure from PCBs. It doesn't work. It creates more problems than it saves money. And all the secondary rectifiers and output stage FETs are the same unfortunately.

Hypex can do a whole lot better if they are selling supposedly state of the art equipment. 18 months lifetime for an entire 250WPC module including PSU is just not remotely good enough.
Sorry dumb question, why is there a plastic film between the thermal pad and the aluminum base plate? Isn't the MOSFET already isolated from the aluminum base by the thermal pad?
 
I've seen it mandated by UL for shock hazard reasons if a transistor which has a metal backing happens to short to the heatsink.
 
Sorry dumb question, why is there a plastic film between the thermal pad and the aluminum base plate? Isn't the MOSFET already isolated from the aluminum base by the thermal pad?

It's the primary side, mains voltages and there are plenty of through hole solder pigtails which in a PCB flexing situation could contact the alu plate. Part of the double insulation requirement most likely as the distances are only a few mm. The 'plastic film' actually has device sized cutouts to ensure 'better' thermal contact for the devices.
 
It's the primary side, mains voltages and there are plenty of through hole solder pigtails which in a PCB flexing situation could contact the alu plate. Part of the double insulation requirement most likely as the distances are only a few mm. The 'plastic film' actually has device sized cutouts to ensure 'better' thermal contact for the devices.
Thanks for your reply!
But why double inslulate one side only? Is it because the smps side is "high voltage" zone and the amplifier side is low voltage (below 60v I assume)?
I just built a nc252mp amp with the Ghent audio kit and I noticed that the transformer that sits right on top of the smps MOSFET (very close to the explosion site in your pictures) gets incredible hot ( > 190 f ) while playing at moderate volume.
I understand that some components are designed to work at certain temperature, but given the high density of this board (capacitors close to the FETs and transformers), wouldn't it help if the overall temperature can be kept at a lower level?
Do you have any suggestions on improving the heat dissipation and longevity of the mc2522mp board?
I did sanded off the anodization coating on the chassis and pasted the board to the metal. I'm also considering replacing the factory thermal pads with some high end pads or even AIN (aluminum nitride ceramic). But any suggestions are appreciated!
 
Do you have any suggestions on improving the heat dissipation and longevity of the mc2522mp board?
Use a proper heatsink. The data sheet for the modules basically says as much.
 
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