Class A/AB amplifier recommendations

[LD644]

I'm looking for a class A/AB power amplifier (No integrated) for my ls50 metas that's under 1000$ new or used, ideally under 800. Right now all I can think of is the Vidar 2. I'm looking for linear that's maybe slightly warm with rca and balanced inputs. It also needs enough power to power the Ls50 metas. I'm probably in the wrong area to post this but I can't figure out what to get. The only reason I'm not going class D is I'm looking for slightly warm and sometimes class D doesn't like the swing from 8 ohms to 3.5.

 

[threni]

Under 1000 what? You're not going to get a very good amp for 1000 South Korean won.

 

[ZolaIII]

Yamaha A-S 70x, 80x line, push it to R-N1000A (for better YPAO and Automatic Loudness) if you can. Second hand not worn out if you can find A-S/R-S 700 or possibly for A-S 700 old stock. Happy hunting.

 

[DVDdoug]

I wouldn't worry about the class, except class-A just dumb and energy inefficient!

Class-A isn't the best, it was just first. And then for a long time it was standard because class A/B requires one more tube, transistor, or MOSFET.

Now that electronics are cheap there is no cost advantage. And no other advantage. In fact, as you go-up in power it becomes more cost-effective per-watt to use a more complex design, with class-D being the most economical way to get high power.

 

[LD644]

Yamaha A-S 70x, 80x line, push it to R-N1000A (for better YPAO and Automatic Loudness) if you can. Second hand not worn out if you can find A-S/R-S 700 or possibly for A-S 700 old stock. Happy hunting.

Thank you. I already own a dac and want a stand alone amplifier. If i didn't one of the Yamaha amps would do.

 

[LD644]

I wouldn't worry about the class, except class-A just dumb and energy inefficient!

Class-A isn't the best, it was just first. And then for a long time it was standard because class A/B requires one more tube, transistor, or MOSFET.

Now that electronics are cheap there is no cost advantage. And no other advantage. In fact, as you go-up in power it becomes more cost-effective per-watt to use a more complex design, with class-D being the most economical way to get high power.

Any slightly warm class D amplifiers. I like the Hypex502mp specs but I'm not sure if I will like it. I've listened to the LS50 metas and I like it on a slightly warm amp. The Vidar is more or less what I want just struggling to find it used in the USA. Plus the ohm drop messes with a lot of class D stuff.

 

[Chrispy]

You want the amp to have a warm case? Just use eq and roll the high end off more. Amp listening isn't really a thing.

 

[ZolaIII]

Thank you. I already own a dac and want a stand alone amplifier. If i didn't one of the Yamaha amps would do.

It really, really is not about DAC. Not even about ADC or that you will lose part of the performance on it. It's about amount of useful DSP processing and preferably for dummies edition regarding how hard it's to use it. Besides old A-S and R-N 700 are old mechanical regarding lines and filters (no DAC) and do DSP-ing somewhere else and on something else. Take your time, search and read about equal loudness compensation and how we perceive loudness. LS50 Metas are relatively small speakers and port does lose function (can't follow on higher SPL which correspond to most compression in their case) and there is no "warmer" amplifier which will change their physical limitations.

 

[LD644]

Warm case is fine I use a tube amp for headphones all the time. Also if you go to Best Buy which I know isn't the best place in the world they have speaker rooms. The room I went to had ls50 metas and the warmer amps I preferred more. I'm also going to get a nc502mp based amp at some point and maybe I will be wrong. Is it not true that a class AB will have more lower order harmonics vs a class d having more higher order harmonics.

 

[Taiga]

Model 2220

You've been looking for a rugged monoblock, at home with both music and movies. Maybe you've been looking for an amp that can be stacked and runs as cool as the other side of your pillow; look no further. 200W into an 8Ω load / 300W into a 4Ω load Choose the right number of amps for...

outlawaudio.com

https://www.monoprice.com/category/audio-video/amplifiers-&-receivers/audio-amplifiers

 

[LD644]

It really, really is not about DAC. Not even about ADC or that you will lose part of the performance on it. It's about amount of useful DSP processing and preferably for dummies edition regarding how hard it's to use it. Besides old A-S and R-N 700 are old mechanical regarding lines and filters (no DAC) and do DSP-ing somewhere else and on something else. Take your time, search and read about equal loudness compensation and how we perceive loudness. LS50 Metas are relatively small speakers and port does lose function (can't follow on higher SPL which correspond to most compression in their case) and there is no "warmer" amplifier which will change their physical limitations.

Thank you. The only reason I brought up the dac is I already paid for it but I think you may be right and I should look at Yamaha. If a Vidar 2 does come across is their any reason I shouldn't get it. I do own a nice dac and the home theater is run on my pc with eq. Obviously I lose room correction. I'm more asking for knowledge at this point.

 

[pjug]

The Outlaw monos are in line with what you are asking for. With 85dB speakers you won't hear any noise from the amps. Unfortunately they run pretty cool so you will need to wrap yourself in a blanket when you listen.

 

[F1Fan72]

What about the Topping B200?

 

[Chrispy]

What amps do you consider warm? Somehow your test was level matched?

 

[JustJones]

Crown XLi 2500

 

[kemmler3D]

The room I went to had ls50 metas and the warmer amps I preferred more.

Just going to throw it out there that some Class-D amps have load dependence that creates a rise in HF that could be audible depending on the amp and speaker combination, but aside from avoiding that, there's not really any such thing as a "warm" amp unless it's distorting a lot.

Amps should (and mostly do) put out the frequency response you put in, neither warm, dark, bright, or otherwise.

As far as really nice amps that aren't Class D I would agree with @F1Fan72 that you should look at the Topping B200. A little outside your price range for 2x, but lots of power, insanely clean, no frequency or load dependency. So, as far as warm meaning "not bright due to load dependency" or "manages to keep up with bass perfectly" it's a good bet.

 

[F1Fan72]

The 200’s are going to be my next purchase..

 

[LD644]

What amps do you consider warm? Somehow your test was level matched?

Yes they have a way to AB test the integrated amps. One brand noticeably sounded warmer. I don't know why or how or if it was some kind of room correction I wasn't aware of but there was a difference. I'd say I have decent hearing because I'm young "maybe dumb" but I've had a friend use random volumes and use Bluetooth then lossless and I could always tell if it was Bluetooth or not. Maybe they messed with the tone knob. I'll see if I can go back and test it. I'll have a friend mess with the volumes and at a random volume tell which amp is which. No need to level match because I will test at a random volume and a random amp and keep score. I think the brands in question were Marantz Yamaha and Denon.

 

[LD644]

What about the Topping B200?

Just going to throw it out there that some Class-D amps have load dependence that creates a rise in HF that could be audible depending on the amp and speaker combination, but aside from avoiding that, there's not really any such thing as a "warm" amp unless it's distorting a lot.

Amps should (and mostly do) put out the frequency response you put in, neither warm, dark, bright, or otherwise.

As far as really nice amps that aren't Class D I would agree with @F1Fan72 that you should look at the Topping B200. A little outside your price range for 2x, but lots of power, insanely clean, no frequency or load dependency. So, as far as warm meaning "not bright due to load dependency" or "manages to keep up with bass perfectly" it's a good bet.

This might explain it. In a few months I will get a class D nc502mp based amp. I will ab them and maybe I will be wrong but I just want to be 1000% sure as this will be my only amp for a while. The b200 looks interesting and that will go on the list.

 

[Svend P]

No need to level match because I will test at a random volume