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Cheap old soundcard vs onboard audio

As to the DAC has USB, why use the sound card or onboard? because i don't know how the sound is send to the Schiit via USB? With my Toslink, now w/o buying the sound card, I just connect the Toslink cable to the back of the Schitt, and the Schiit will do the rest. I don't have struggle w/ USB software / hardware connection
Your onboard audio is also a USB soundcard, just like your DAC would be. Just the USB-audio chip is connected to the USB bus directly on the motherboard. The USB driver is very likely the same.
So with your onboard audio you would have USB transmitter - > USB receiver with PLL'ed clock (because USB adaptive) -> SPDIF transmitter-> SPDIF receiver with another PLL'd clock (because SPDIF is always clock master) -> DAC, with direct connection it would be USB transmitter - > USB receiver with precise crystal clock (because USB async) -> DAC

Just try to hook up your DAC via USB, and most likely no extra driver will be needed.
 
what about signal quality between USB vs. Toslink? Is there 1 better than the other? or they are the exact same?
 
what about signal quality between USB vs. Toslink? Is there 1 better than the other? or they are the exact same?
If things are going well, they should be the same, in practice people often get ground loops and whatnot with USB connected to their PC, so sometimes toslink can be better. USB can also support higher bitrates.
 
thank you. On the subject of bitrates: For people using those off line youtube song download website or software to download a song, I just want to confirm that the bitrate of my USB sound module has nothing to do w/ it? So whether the downloaded song is 1.4Mb/s audio stream, it shouldn't matter what my USB can support higher bitrate or not? or does it?
 
okay, thank you everyone. I'll save the money and use the onboard. w/o the PCIe sound card, It also give me more space to put a portable fan to cool off my PCIe 5.0 NVMe SSD

someone else also said the same thing to me: since I'm piping out the TOslink to the Modi Schiit DAC, the Schiit will be doing the work, so he said the sound card is not needed. Ruediger above, said the same thing.

As to the DAC has USB, why use the sound card or onboard? because i don't know how the sound is send to the Schiit via USB? With my Toslink, now w/o buying the sound card, I just connect the Toslink cable to the back of the Schitt, and the Schiit will do the rest. I don't have struggle w/ USB software / hardware connection
Slightly offtopic, but for NVME cooling I recommend a well built copper cooler. Does the job and one less fan to worry about.

As for the USB to the DAC: just try it out. It should present a new audio output device in your sound settings. Which you can configure to your needs. Basically the same as if you just plugged in a new soundcard. There may or may not be further drivers (don't now that brand), otherwise it's just a standard usb audio device.

With toslink from the mainboard to the DAC you will achieve the same. And also have one audio output device in Win to configure. The optical line is not a bad idea as it creates no electrical link to the DAC. Many newer mainboards don't have that toslink option anymore. Nice that you can just use it.
 
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thank you. On the subject of bitrates: For people using those off line youtube song download website or software to download a song, I just want to confirm that the bitrate of my USB sound module has nothing to do w/ it? So whether the downloaded song is 1.4Mb/s audio stream, it shouldn't matter what my USB can support higher bitrate or not? or does it?
The link speed of basic USB 2.0 is 480mbit/s, far beyond what audio needs. The connection is very capable from a technical standpoint, more capable than toslink.
 
On the subject of bitrates: For people using those off line youtube song download website or software to downlad a song, I just want to confirm that the bitrate of my USB sound module has nothing to do w/ it? So whether the downloaded song is 1.4Mb/s audio stream, it shouldn't matter what my USB can support higher bitrate or not? or does it?
Bitrates most often relate to compressed formats (lossy mp3, lossless flac, ...). The player decodes them to PCM (basically wav without the header) and sends to the audio device. So the bitrate on USB/toslink will be same for 48kHz mp3 with 64k, 128k, 196k, 324k, all that matters is the rate and sample width (which very likely your USB device will accept 32bits only anyway, Toslink is always 24 bit).

But your TOSLINK output device is also USB-audio, so the same principles apply.
 
thank you. On the subject of bitrates: For people using those off line youtube song download website or software to download a song, I just want to confirm that the bitrate of my USB sound module has nothing to do w/ it? So whether the downloaded song is 1.4Mb/s audio stream, it shouldn't matter what my USB can support higher bitrate or not? or does it?
Toslink is quite old optical bit stream protocol that is becose of its bandwidth limited to 2.0 PCM up to 196 KHz and losy compressed multichannel Dolby's it suports up to 48 KHz. As it's both optical and beat stream there is no sync or clock issues and no possibility for a ground loop. USB Audio 2.0 is derivate from USB 2.0 and it's asynchronous, doesn't have such bandwidth limitations, USB Audio 1.0 has up to 96 KHz and sync protocol. More than 95 % (including fake high res masters) of available music is done to Redwod CD quality 44100 Hz 16 bit and movies to 48 KHz. If you are lucky or very young you can possibly hear up to 20 KHz and even so there will be very little to hear there (beyond 12.5 KHz in general) regarding recorded materials and known instruments and their overtones. In other words 192 KHz is plenty and more you will need even to do FIR's (tap based EQ).
1.4 MB/S gets you in 96 KHz 24 bit flac territory regarding bandwidth.
Edit: actual performance and latency will actually depend how good drivers are written and how good MB handle micro ops under pressure (busy bus).
It's not all roses regarding Toslink either. Newer async receiver can experience re sync issues (herd as dropouts) from low quality sources (Korean TV's from both LG and Samsung).
 
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no wonder you guys ask me to move to USB instead of Toslink. I still have 2 new fans coming, and 1 pair of metal to scratch build mount on my fan. Once done, I can finally switch over to the new PC and try out the USB port to the Modi Schitt like you guys suggest. Thank you.
 
Slightly offtopic, but for NVME cooling I recommend a well built copper cooler. Does the job and one less fan to worry about.
so this is just a quick off topic reply: the Sabrent you mention, at Amazon review, a lot of owners said once they connect it to their NVMe drive, they lost the drive. I use active cooling on a brand called JinuShark m.2-3
 
so this is just a quick off topic reply: the Sabrent you mention, at Amazon review, a lot of owners said once they connect it to their NVMe drive, they lost the drive. I use active cooling on a brand called JinuShark m.2-3
No idea how they do that. It's just a heatsink, doesn't connect to the NVME in any way besides via a thermal pad on top and/or on bottom. It's possible to fit this wrong, which can result in a bad connection at the m.2 socket. But this is a problem with all heatsinks needing to be properly fitted to the drive. One has to do it really wrong to achieve that though. There are holes and markers, it's hard to completely miss all that.
 
a lot of owners said once they connect it to their NVMe drive, they lost the drive.
This heatsink looks like a joke. Nearly no cooling surface and a heatpipe, which serves no purpose. Sorry for continuing offtopic, but this is really weird product.
 
It's pretty heavy, works good, can do more than stock heatsink-options on expensive Samsung Pro or Corsair Force f.e., is or was cheap, was even free with Sabrent Rockets... but it's just one of many possibilities.

Actually measured with some prosumer drives under sustained load and in normal tower airflow. But the goal was more like: can it keep the drive under 60deg at any time?
 
So BICS and Psion still. I don't know what are you opsesed with, it does suck a lot under peak load but you won't have that ever in regular use. If it's same SoM same NAND and controller all generic or branded for same will work fine (same offset and hight of chips and controller). With 30+ W max they do need a heatsink but stil ambient temperature insade case will be determining factor. Don't do it to one's (heatsink) it's not ment to go with like Samsung or WD.
 
In any case watch the NVME sensor, put actual workload on and see if the temperature is good.

Desktop work has only small bursts. That temperature still needs to be contained, but it's not i/o heavy load.
 
Apologies for extending the OT, but this is a science website and there is science to be scienced

- I have seen people wrongly tell me a heatsink was DOA from the box. Only to teach him that he assembled it wrongly. So humanity is capable of unimaginable things.

- Heatsink area and airflow affect heat dissipation, but heatsink mass affects heat inertia. The block of metal helps absorb temporary bursts of power, even if does not improve the temperature under sustained load. Like a capacitor vs a power supply.
-- The heatpipe can actually be required in such a case, because a block of metal is still thermal impedance. Instead of the heat traveling through the entire block before reaching top surface, the heatpipe quickens the process.
--- Ultimately, regardless of what we can guess, the end result decides everything. And people have tested it to at least do something. This website is build on testing more than seeing, do not forget that.

- It's actually doing a bit better than the MC1 Pro, which with all the fins and stuff you'd think would be a great performer.

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- That being said, a gaming motherboard already comes with a heatsink of its own, often with heatpipes that lead to more fins. Those are usually sufficient. But yea, if you need the Sabrent heatink, it does its job.
 
I have read a no. of youtube review on M.2 heatsink w/ a little fan in the middle. Their conclusion is, where the fan is located, that portion of the heatsink IS COOL. But the rest of the heatsink is hot.

the idea of the Jiushark m.2-3 is, in essence, a miniature ver. of your CPU block, where there is a heatsink and a fan that blow all the heat of the entire heatsink out of the way.
 
Only time you can get close to full utilisation for prolonged time is if you do synthetic benchmarks, stres test or if you seed CHIA (cripto which no one does anymore). You shouldn't do any of that anyhow. I have older Psion and Kioksia BICS PCI-E gen 4 in Coshair branding with its stock cooler for years. Under regular heavy load of system and to SSD like gaming its delta under ambient temperature of 21~22° C is 36° C and motherboard/case lambda stays at about 26~27. Talking playing for hours and hardly there is a real load that it will ever see that's harder then that. It's gen 4 27W, gen 5 got to 31~32W and OEM's made a little better coolers to go with them, nothing really changed. Absurd is in real loads other then boot up you get zero advantage even compared to old SATA SSD's.
 
Chia plotting is one of those workloads where over hours, days, weeks it gets too hot - or stays in a desired area. Improper cooling solutions, lack of airflow, it will all show.

All of my modern boards come with large alu plates. They work well and don't get in the way.

Then there are Hyper cards and clones. 4 x nvme with 16 lanes in a mid size pcie card. Full alu cover, integrated fan. Good prosumer solution.

If you ever put a fast nvme in a external thunderbolt4 passive cooled brick, it will demonstrate nicely how much heat there can be to transport away.
 
It's actually doing a bit better than the MC1 Pro, which with all the fins and stuff you'd think would be a great performer.
Yes, it works. But compare it to a reasonably designed device, which use heatpipe properly and provide adequate cooling surface:
 
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