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Chaconne, swedish Speaker, I will buy tomorrow for 200€.

Hallo everybody and whaoo, my post created all these feedbacks and discussions.
Well, I did not buy the Chaconne because one of the speaker's cone was damaged, broken.
so he gave them to me for free. The problem is that there are no screws ?
I have to tweak out the speaker since it has been glued, and then find something
else, perhaps change both medium speakers. Anyway, I paid nothing so I can play
with it to see.
Congratulations on getting them for free. :)

Congratulations on starting to work with concrete.:)

Sinus replacement woofers do not exist.
What do you want to do? Fullblown and thus basically build/construct a new speaker with those concrete boxes or pop in new woofers and hope for the best?

There is something in between also. It all depends on how much time, desire, interest, money and possibilities (workshop) you have.
 
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And measurement equipment and software to adapt new drivers to the box .

But op should pry off a driver, the old versions ones may use seas drivers ?
 
I would be worried about corroded electronics from storage in a humid environment. Never heard about this brand before. Also 60W power handling is very low.
Yes to humid environment issues. 60 watt power handling may indicate an efficiency that is higher than average.
At one time there were a # of quality amps in the 40-80 watt RMS @ 8 ohm range.
This one from the late 1980's comes to mind (I have a pair):

NAD 2100​

Monitor Series Power Amplifier (1988-89)

add a review (4 reviews)

NAD 2100

nad 2100 front

nad 2100 back

Specifications​

Power output: 50 watts per channel into 8Ω (stereo), 150 watts into 8Ω (mono)

Frequency response: 3Hz to 100kHz

Total harmonic distortion: 0.03%

Damping factor: 100

Gain: 27 dB

Input sensitivity: 0.85V

Signal to noise ratio: 117dB

Speaker load impedance: 2Ω (minimum)

Dimensions: 435 x 108 x 381mm

Weight: 9.52kg
 
And measurement equipment and software to adapt new drivers to the box .

But op should pry off a driver, the old versions ones may use seas drivers ?
If I remember correctly, for example this one:
CA21REX_DD_p1.jpg
Which like Sinus woffers/drivers are no longer produced.

TS will have to think about what he wants to achieve.

The only really good DIY speakers with an 8 inch woofer and a 1 inch tweeter I have seen are these: :)


@RaymondFromThePyrénéés , if you want to do something with them, I think you should start a new thread on this forum section of ASR:


A middle ground DIY. Pop in new woffers. Out with the passive crossover. In with active or digital crossover. Spearata amps for tweeter and woofer, with the ability to set the volume on them separately. Plug the bass reflex hole and make them seald.
Mix and change the crossover frequency until it becomes, under the circumstances, as good as it can be.

A step further new tweeters with WG , for example:
Screenshot_2026-02-22_084044.jpg


Then the last step. Full blown DIY sawing in concrete and putting in a new front baffle in wood. It gives a completely different freedom, the opportunity to create, in principle, completely new speakers with new drivers. Doesn't have to be an 8 inch woofer for example.

But it all depends on what you RaymondFromThePyrénéés want to do.:)
 
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thank you. What is strange is that there is not place on the speaker to get inside, except when I take off a woofer, which is glued.
It migth be that the crossover are in the plinth on it’s underside I remeber that the bottom plinth is also glued to the concrete casting .
This older model could have the crossover on a separate board ( they rationalised it to have the bottom plinth and crossover the be the same piece )
That’s the way they built them glued on the plinth last .
 
Thank you, I will get back here later.
SB Acoustics SB20FRPC30-8 fullrange.

Is probably the easiest thing you can do, IF it physically fits in your speakers that is.
Only SB20FRPC30-8 in that case. Disconnect the tweeters in your Chaconne

Requires some EQ to be ok. Here they are in sealed boxes with measurements and subjective listening impressions:
20230503_101934.jpg20231018_122859.jpg

TLHP selling price
40.21IT/piece
 
Bo Hansson was much more the concrete speaker or his Big @ss horn.
1771754591714.png




He had so much knowledge and was willing to share.
It easy to forget his record player, Opus3 Continuo.
And he was also invovled in master records that was released as "test records"
Some where done in Jazz/blues clubs in Sweden so as live as it can be with very little compression.

1771754316470.png
 
Thank you everyone. These speakers will be my playground, like a child beginning to learn how to walk.
I shall have to go away to work until the 15th of April, but then I will start seriously rebuilding my Swedish speakers.
A full range sound good to me. But why change the tweeters, they seem to be ok.
 
A full range sound good to me. But why change the tweeters, they seem to be ok.
A tweeter with waveguide makes it easier to get a good integration between an 8 inch bass and a 1 inch tweeter.

But it all depends on what you want to achieve. :)

In any case. Your Chaconne speakers are tuned (the length and width of the bass reflex tube) to fit the woofer that is in them now. So you can't just pop in a radome woofer and hope it works. You can plug the bass reflex and make them sealed. Then you just need to know the volume of the cavity and find a suitable woofer.

Then IF you want to keep the passive crossover, the tweeter and woofer should have the same sensitivity. If you are going to use EQ, you can match it at a later stage, so they sound evenly tweeter and woofer, that is. Ideally, they should have the same sensitivity from the start.

The passive crossover is based on the values of the components, on which Ohm your woofer and tweeter have. IF it's an 8 Ohm woofer and you pop in a 4 Ohm, or vice versa, it won't work well with your crossover.

I'm guessing your Chaconne's are old school crossover point around 3 kHz, with a 12 dB filter. Maybe 6 dB. Note I'm guessing. IF you're going to keep the passive crossover what you really should have is a woofer that rolls off nicely in the higher frequencies.
This is what some paper cone based woofers usually do (check the FR stated by the manufacturer).
In that case, if my guess about your crossover is correct, what you should not choose is some metal cone based woffer, which can have nasty audible breakups higher up in frequency (which a 12/6 dB filter with a high crossover frequency doesn't dampen in a satisfactory manner).
 
You probably have to also re design the crossover ( and figure how its currently wired and its component values ) , there usually more thought into these design then one might think . There could possibly also be an resistor or resistor L-pad in series with the tweeter to match up the sensitivity with its woofer.

Even if find a woofer with very similar TS parameters and cone material it will not be exactly the same

Reverse engineer this old speaker could be fun .

Look loudspeaker design is both easy and very hard , slap drivers in box with rudimentary crossover and it makes sound , have fun :) making a good speakers is a multidisciplinary venture and sometimes life long hobby that takes some effort and actual measurements of the results to get close to right .

If you like the idea to tinker with this as a pastime go ahead, its a hobby :)

If you think you just have to apply some easy fixes and suddenly have good speaker , you might actually have to buy new functioning speakers instead ?

There is good software and some books out there vituix cad ,the "loudspeaker design cookbook " etc . I tend to overthink so i read up on the subject for a couple of moths and decided to buy speakers or pre designed kits :) i eventually just bought speakers .
 
If you have the tools, interest and knowledge, it is possible to rebuild old concrete boxes. I saw this thread:
A person who rebuilt a pair of Rauna Njord.
Which was a 1980s transmission line speaker design that looked like this in the original:
65432 (3).jpg
Into a 2.5 way bass reflex speaker, with new drivers,crossovers and so on..
IMG_19012020_152652_(1800_x_900_pixel).jpgIMG_12012020_215901_(900_x_1080_pixel).jpgIMG_20191016_210031_01 (1).jpg
Of course a lot of extra work vs. just building, carpentry two speaker boxes in wood. At least that's how it would be for me.
 
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You probably have to also re design the crossover ( and figure how its currently wired and its component values ) , there usually more thought into these design then one might think . There could possibly also be an resistor or resistor L-pad in series with the tweeter to match up the sensitivity with its woofer.

Even if find a woofer with very similar TS parameters and cone material it will not be exactly the same

Reverse engineer this old speaker could be fun .

Look loudspeaker design is both easy and very hard , slap drivers in box with rudimentary crossover and it makes sound , have fun :) making a good speakers is a multidisciplinary venture and sometimes life long hobby that takes some effort and actual measurements of the results to get close to right .

If you like the idea to tinker with this as a pastime go ahead, its a hobby :)

If you think you just have to apply some easy fixes and suddenly have good speaker , you might actually have to buy new functioning speakers instead ?

There is good software and some books out there vituix cad ,the "loudspeaker design cookbook " etc . I tend to overthink so i read up on the subject for a couple of moths and decided to buy speakers or pre designed kits :) i eventually just bought speakers .
Sometimes NEWER (maybe newer type of material, too) crossover components with the same specs (if you found another, original, good raw speaker) but tighter tolerances might be the way to go. There are many options that were not available to the original designer at the time they built your speaker that they might have used had t been available to them.
 
If RaymondFromThePyrénéés feels like it, he can check under, bottom of the plinth of the speakers to see if the crossover is there. If he wants, he can take a photograph and write down the values of the components if he wants us to comment on what type of crossover point (which also depends on what Ohm the drivers have) and order it has. I was at least a little curious about it.:)
 
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