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CD Recorder Recommendation

(...) On the removable CF/SD card thing, you have me very interested if it sits in my hifi rack without connecting to my laptop until I remove it to put into my laptop. Can you explain more please? (...)

Basically these are dedicated digital audio recorders, which use flash memory cards rather than CD-R/-RW or DAT cassettes as recording media. And these exist in various formats from very small, portable models (like for example the pretty good Sony PCM-M10 and Roland R-05) up to full-sized models like for example the DSD-capable Tascam DA-3000 and its current successor DA-3000SD and even beyond (like for example the 24-track Tascam Model 24 and Model 2400, which are mixers with integrated digital recorder. And there also are combo models, like for example the Tascam SS-CDR250N, which can record onto USB stick (aka thumb drive), SD(HC/XC) cards and CD-R/-RW.

The basic usage of these thingies is pretty much just the same as with a classic analogue cassette deck or a classic DAT or CD recorder - but of course one can record way longer onto a single medium due to the high capacity of modern flash memory cards and USB sticks. And file transfer is way faster, too.

Greetings from Munich!

Manfred / lini
 
if you can find a HHB CDR-800 or 850. Both great machines I have used for years, with no hassle at all, at work, when cdburners were a thing :-)
Thank you, there seems to be a few of them about on Ebay.
 
... The basic usage of these thingies is pretty much just the same as with a classic analogue cassette deck or a classic DAT or CD recorder - but of course one can record way longer onto a single medium due to the high capacity of modern flash memory cards and USB sticks. And file transfer is way faster, too.
Yes, and the CF/SD cards are cheaper and last a lot longer. They can handle a lot more writes than a CD-RW disc.
 
Step 1: buy a CF/SD flash recorder. Your best bet is to find a high quality used model on eBay, like the Tascam models I mentioned earlier.

Step 2: connect it to your audio system just like any other component. It will have analog inputs and outputs, and digital inputs and outputs.

Step 3: use it to record whatever you want (LPs, radio, etc.). It writes the recorded files to the CF/SD card, typically in WAV format.

Step 4: after recording, remove the CF/SD card from the recorder and read it on your PC using a card reader.

Your PC is never connected to the audio system.
Great info, thanks.

How will I write in the tracks and other info? What program should I use?

For my finalised CDRW's I use Asunder on my Linux laptop. Sometimes it recognises the album and puts all the info in there for me. Other times I have to type it in myself, but that doesn't take long, unless it's a compilation album with multiple artists.
 
For years, I used a Tascam SS-R1 and it was excellent. Great AD and DA converters, analog inputs and outputs both balanced and single-ended, digital inputs and outputs too. Built well and reliable. The only drawback I found was that it maxed out at 48 kHz 16 bit. That isn't a problem if you're capturing LPs. I recorded at least 1,000 LPs with that unit and it was still working when I sold it to replace it with a DA-3000. The SS-R1 model is old enough you can get them on eBay for about $100, and well built enough it will still last a long time.
 
Basically these are dedicated digital audio recorders, which use flash memory cards rather than CD-R/-RW or DAT cassettes as recording media. And these exist in various formats from very small, portable models (like for example the pretty good Sony PCM-M10 and Roland R-05) up to full-sized models like for example the DSD-capable Tascam DA-3000 and its current successor DA-3000SD and even beyond (like for example the 24-track Tascam Model 24 and Model 2400, which are mixers with integrated digital recorder. And there also are combo models, like for example the Tascam SS-CDR250N, which can record onto USB stick (aka thumb drive), SD(HC/XC) cards and CD-R/-RW.

The basic usage of these thingies is pretty much just the same as with a classic analogue cassette deck or a classic DAT or CD recorder - but of course one can record way longer onto a single medium due to the high capacity of modern flash memory cards and USB sticks. And file transfer is way faster, too.

Greetings from Munich!

Manfred / lini
This is excellent info, on top of the good foundation laid by @MRC01, thanks!

This gives me models to explore for starters, which is a brilliant start to my research.
 
Great info, thanks.

How will I write in the tracks and other info? What program should I use?

For my finalised CDRW's I use Asunder on my Linux laptop. Sometimes it recognises the album and puts all the info in there for me. Other times I have to type it in myself, but that doesn't take long, unless it's a compilation album with multiple artists.
Some recorders, like the Tascam SS-R1, will automatically split tracks while recording based on the input level and you can set the level threshold in its setup screens. With the SS-R1, you can even set a threshold and time delay forward or backward - for example, when the input signal drops below -36 dB, the track is split when it rises back above that level, and set back X milliseconds before the level rose. Or push a button while it's recording to instantly start a new track. The tracks are gapless, of course.

The other option is not to split tracks with the recorder, load the WAV files it creates into your PC (one file per LP side) and use Audacity to split the tracks. Audacity can write the tracks as separate files and it does so gapless - when played back it is seamless with no click, tick, etc.

Either way, once you've split the tracks, you can use other apps like Asunder that use CDDB to create the album info. The lookup index to match the album is based on the sequence of tracks (files) and their length in minutes:seconds, so splitting the tracks at the right points (and having your phonograph spinning at exactly the right speed) is important.

I always preferred recording LPs at conservatively low levels to avoid clipping during recording; set the peak level at -3 dB just in case there's a louder part of the record you didn't find. Then load the files into Audacity, shift the volume so the highest recorded peak is -1 dB and split it into tracks. Audacity also enables you to apply a high pass filter to suppress subsonic noise from the LP. And a multitude of other effects, which I never used.
 
For years, I used a Tascam SS-R1 and it was excellent. Great AD and DA converters, analog inputs and outputs both balanced and single-ended, digital inputs and outputs too. Built well and reliable. The only drawback I found was that it maxed out at 48 kHz 16 bit. That isn't a problem if you're capturing LPs. I recorded at least 1,000 LPs with that unit and it was still working when I sold it to replace it with a DA-3000. The SS-R1 model is old enough you can get them on eBay for about $100, and well built enough it will still last a long time.
Fantastic stuff!, thanks. Exactly the sort of info I'm after. I shall start exploring. :)
 
Some recorders, like the Tascam SS-R1, will automatically split tracks while recording based on the input level and you can set the level threshold in its setup screens. With the SS-R1, you can even set a threshold and time delay forward or backward - for example, when the input signal drops below -36 dB, the track is split when it rises back above that level, and set back X milliseconds before the level rose. Or push a button while it's recording to instantly start a new track. The tracks are gapless, of course.

The other option is not to split tracks with the recorder, load the WAV files it creates into your PC (one file per LP side) and use Audacity to split the tracks. Audacity can write the tracks as separate files and it does so gapless - when played back it is seamless with no click, tick, etc.

Either way, once you've split the tracks, you can use other apps like Asunder that use CDDB to create the album info. The lookup index to match the album is based on the sequence of tracks (files) and their length in minutes:seconds, so splitting the tracks at the right points (and having your phonograph spinning at exactly the right speed) is important.

I always preferred recording LPs at conservatively low levels to avoid clipping during recording; set the peak level at -3 dB just in case there's a louder part of the record you didn't find. Then load the files into Audacity, shift the volume so the highest recorded peak is -1 dB and split it into tracks. Audacity also enables you to apply a high pass filter to suppress subsonic noise from the LP. And a multitude of other effects, which I never used.
Thanks, this is similar to what I do on the Pioneer CD Recorder. I go for 'manual' rather than 'auto' for writing in the tracks so that I'm in full control. Left to 'auto', often it won't split tracks correctly due to too much noise in the gaps between tracks, or it will put a gap in a track where there's a very quiet bit in.

This is great info you're giving me, because you're keeping me in the realm I'm used to, and still without the computer attached to the hifi. In essence, it's what I'm already doing, but you're just replacing the CDRW disc with a CF/SD card, which sounds ideal.
 
This is excellent info, on top of the good foundation laid by @MRC01, thanks!

This gives me models to explore for starters, which is a brilliant start to my research.

You're welcome. Well, and I'd think you might actually be best served with the SS-CDR250N.

Greetings from Munich!

Manfred / lini
 
You're welcome. Well, and I'd think you might actually be best served with the SS-CDR250N.

Greetings from Munich!

Manfred / lini
Thanks.
Er, having just seen prices, my wallet doesn't agree, lol.

The SSR-1 on the other hand, that @MRC01 suggested, is available on Ebay at prices much more in keeping with my budget :)
 
Some recorders, like the Tascam SS-R1, will automatically split tracks while recording based on the input level and you can set the level threshold in its setup screens. With the SS-R1, you can even set a threshold and time delay forward or backward - for example, when the input signal drops below -36 dB, the track is split when it rises back above that level, and set back X milliseconds before the level rose. Or push a button while it's recording to instantly start a new track. The tracks are gapless, of course.

The other option is not to split tracks with the recorder, load the WAV files it creates into your PC (one file per LP side) and use Audacity to split the tracks. Audacity can write the tracks as separate files and it does so gapless - when played back it is seamless with no click, tick, etc.

Either way, once you've split the tracks, you can use other apps like Asunder that use CDDB to create the album info. The lookup index to match the album is based on the sequence of tracks (files) and their length in minutes:seconds, so splitting the tracks at the right points (and having your phonograph spinning at exactly the right speed) is important.

I always preferred recording LPs at conservatively low levels to avoid clipping during recording; set the peak level at -3 dB just in case there's a louder part of the record you didn't find. Then load the files into Audacity, shift the volume so the highest recorded peak is -1 dB and split it into tracks. Audacity also enables you to apply a high pass filter to suppress subsonic noise from the LP. And a multitude of other effects, which I never used.
The SS-R1 is looking ideal from everything I've seen so far. There's a new one on Ebay at the mo at a reasonable price.

One question please, if I may?

I can't seem to see where you adjust input levels. I thought the pitch control knob doubled up as a input level, since it can be pushed in, but appears not from the user manual

Any ideas please?
 
The SS-R1 does let you set the recording level and the L-R channel balance. In my copy of the manual it's explained on page 37.
1762465380182.png
 
The SS-R1 does let you set the recording level and the L-R channel balance. In my copy of the manual it's explained on page 37.
View attachment 488480
Ah, the multi jog dial, doh, why didn't I think of that! Thanks, I hadn't taken the time to read all 88 pages yet, lol.

Thanks again for all this. I think I'm going to pull the trigger on one of these as I like the idea of finally doing away with my now and again 'check disc' errors.

I've already dug out an old multi card reader that has a CF slot, so I should be good to go :)
 
I've got a Samsung disc burner with a date of December 2013 on it. I create files, importing the CD via I-Tunes. It retains the metadata, so I've got the artist's name, name of the CD and the song titles along with the timings for each track burned into the CD. Still works perfectly after all these years, also enables me to watch DVDs on my laptop. I think it set me back all of $27.

Note: I also have burned a lot of LPs to CDs, using Audacity to import files I recorded via a handheld Tascam digital recorder, importing the results into Audacity and then importing the results, track by track, into I-Tunes in order to burn the CD.
 
For everyone on this thread trying to move me away from using a cd recorder (and it's appreciated, btw), maybe I should phrase a question in a different way.

Can anyone show me a way to rip vinyl to flac files without using a cd recorder that DOESN'T require me to connect a computer to my hifi set up, please?

I've yet to find a YouTube example for starters that doesn't require me to hook up a computer directly to the hifi.
I mentioned this in the previous post, but using a handheld digital recorder enabled me to copy LPs without directly hooking up my Hi-Fi to the computer.
 
I mentioned this in the previous post, but using a handheld digital recorder enabled me to copy LPs without directly hooking up my Hi-Fi to the computer.
How did you hook up the hand held recorder? , or is it just a microphone and you stood there the whole time holding it?, which conjures up all sorts of images, lol.

I'm going to give the Tascam SS -R1 a try, as kindly recommended to me here, but I'm always interested to hear of different methods people use to rip their vinyl.
 
How did you hook up the hand held recorder? , or is it just a microphone and you stood there the whole time holding it?, which conjures up all sorts of images, lol.

I'm going to give the Tascam SS -R1 a try, as kindly recommended to me here, but I'm always interested to hear of different methods people use to rip their vinyl.
One recorder (the Tascam DR-05) has a line-level 1/8" input. I used that recorder the most. I have an interconnect with 1/8" stereo plug and a pair of RCA plugs on the other. I would use the tape output of my receiver and connect that to the recorder. I used that more than the Tascam DR-40 recorder, which has external microphone/line level inputs that can use XLRs or 1/4" plugs. The DR-40 also has phantom power. FWIW, I've made recordings directly off a mixing board using the DR-40.

One more thing—when I was making LP transfers to digital formats, I used software called "Click Repair", fairly effective in reducing surface noise. I suspect there are more sophisticated ways of reducing surface noise from LPs these days. I also had access to an ultrasonic cleaning service at a record store. That helped to reduce surface noise a little but not really all that much. Most of the records I was working with weren't in particularly good shape. I made a lot of what I called "Needledrops" for people who wanted to hear their old records, sometimes very old records on some very weird formats, like home recordings on 78s that ran from the inner groove to the outer groove. Had to be pretty alert with those to avoid having the needle fly out of the groove.
 
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