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Can anyone explain the VU Meter renaissance?

Icepower 1200as2,300a2 (modules).
They both have analog outputs showing voltage and current.
Check post #72.
Oh you mean terminals which you can hook up meters. Do you use it to show the values?
 
Oh you mean terminals which you can hook up meters. Do you use it to show the values?
Check post #72.
It has one voltage monitor and one current monitor on each channel (so 8 for 4 channels).
For example 1200as2 represents both values in -12 to 12V range (so you choose an appropriate meter) ,where in voltage is just the output with 0.12 gain applied (so the rated 100V x 0.12=12V) and the current with an equivalent sense resistor of 0.33 Ohm (so 38A x 0.33=12).

For now i only use them periodically hooking up the multimeter just for fun or test.I want to find some really nice ones to put on the case.
 
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I assume it would be allowed that I too may join this thread with sharing my DIY-built IEC 60268-17 compatible 12-VU-Meter Array monitoring whole-sum of source digital signal and actual SP-high-level signals from multiple amplifiers in my DSP-based multichannel multi-SP-Driver multi-amplifier audio project (ref. here for the latest system setup);
- My nostalgia and preference for large glass-face VU meters: DIY of 12-VU-Meter Array in multichannel multi-driver multi-way multi-amplifier stereo audio system: #535 on my project thread:
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I like and have been sticking to ballistic behavior/specification of IEC 60268-17 compatible VU meters;
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As I shared here recently, even though my personal nostalgia and preference are the major motivations for IEC 60268-17 compatible DIY 12-VU-Meter Array, at least in my DSP-based multichannel system (ref. here for the latest setup), it also has practical role and value together with various Peak Meters in digital domain on audio dedicated silent PC screen.

The various multichannel Peak Meters monitoring all the I/O in digital domain on PC screen and the DIY 12-VU-Meter Array monitoring the actual SP-high-level signals of multiple amplifiers all together greatly help me in performing/confirming my proper and safe "ignition/startup sequences" and "shutdown sequences". I assume you may easily understand what I mean here if you would read my post here on such sequences and looking at the below diagram showing the digital Peak Meters on screen and the physical IEC 60268-17 compatible DIY 12-VU-Meter Array;
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Soon wax cylinders will be all the rage.

I actually like the look of VU meters, but I'm not sure they'll work well with my attention disorder. Pretty bouncing needles would distract me from the music :D
 
Pretty bouncing needles would distract me from the music :D

Yes, I agree with you!

This is one of the reasons for my DIY 12-VU-Meter Array building it can be moved various places in my listening room so that it can be placed out of my sight if needed.;)
You can find several actual photos showing various locations of the 12-VU-Meter Array in the latter half of my long post there.
 
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Yes, I agree with you!

This is one of the reasons for my DIY 12-VU-Meter Array building it can be moved various places in my listening room so that it can be placed out of my sight if needed.;)
You can find several actual photos showing various locations of the 12-VU-Meter Array in the latter half of my long post there.
I do enjoy the clarity of your posts, @dualazmak and the effort you put in to signpost what you have done and what you have learned.
 
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It's preparing us for the FM Tuner renaissance.
I'm ready -- bring it on!

On topic ;) -- my beef is with VU meters that don't measure volume units.
Most of them just bounce around.

At least this modest little preamp is relatively honest about what its meters aren't...

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;)
 
I'd be happy to pay extra for some proper VU meters.
Replying to myself: METERS is, in fact, a primary reason: why I just bought a bridgeable PROTON D1200 in the last couple of weeks.
And I am going to be looking for another one after Feb 1. As I intend to use them bridged mono for my pair of homebuilt 4 Ohm subs (FR 20 Hz-80 Hz.
 
Replying to myself: METERS is, in fact, a primary reason: why I just bought a bridgeable PROTON D1200 in the last couple of weeks.
And I am going to be looking for another one after Feb 1. As I intend to use them bridged mono for my pair of homebuilt 4 Ohm subs (FR 20 Hz-80 Hz.
I guess that must be a US vs UK thing. I'll leave it at that.
:)
 
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I guess that must be a US vs UK thing. I'll leave it at that.
:)
Could be: I was concieved in the US, born in Austria & raise in both. I've passed through the UK (South Hampton by Ship and changing airports in London) but never spent more than a day. I've spent 30 days in Australia (Perth/Freemantle). It reminded me a bit of the UK but is different enough that it was noticeable.
But I do know more people in the US that like the meters than anywhere else that I have been.
Many in the US just like things that are moving with the music (lights, meters, disco balls, whatever).
I worked in radio broadcasting from 1974-1986, so I want watt meter's that are reasonably accurate and tell me something (sort of like having a tachometer in a car [yes, I know, for many that is just for looks, too]). Since I still do recording, VU meter's also (could be LED's provided that they were reasonably accurate).
But in the end, I do not have to have them for my primary goal: listening to a very good, more natural sounding than a boombox, stereo.
In my case 2.2. or 2.4.
 
Could be: I was concieved in the US, born in Austria & raise in both. I've passed through the UK (South Hampton by Ship and changing airports in London) but never spent more than a day. I've spent 30 days in Australia (Perth/Freemantle). It reminded me a bit of the UK but is different enough that it was noticeable.
But I do know more people in the US that like the meters than anywhere else that I have been.
Many in the US just like things that are moving with the music (lights, meters, disco balls, whatever).
I worked in radio broadcasting from 1974-1986, so I want watt meter's that are reasonably accurate and tell me something (sort of like having a tachometer in a car [yes, I know, for many that is just for looks, too]). Since I still do recording, VU meter's also (could be LED's provided that they were reasonably accurate).
But in the end, I do not have to have them for my primary goal: listening to a very good, more natural sounding than a boombox, stereo.
In my case 2.2. or 2.4.
I have zero interest in VM even though I can easily turn it on in my streamer. Might as well do disco lights, means little these days. Back when we recorded compact cassettes it did.
 
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I have zero interest in VM even though I can easily turn it on in my streamer. Might as well do disco lights, means little these days. Back when we recorded compact cassettes it did.
I still play with compact cassettes. TOTL decks had reasonably good FR (at 68: I can't hear over 14.5 these days), W&F that was not annoying to me, so they are better than me, now. Particularly after refurbishment (and the latest updates available implemented). But, like most things, if you bought the lesser models to begin with: well, they never sounded even "good" to begin with. So: how could they sound good today?
Can digital beat them? Of course!
A lot of what I have is stuff made by my family (music, singing & fun), so much of I have converted to CD & Digitized it but I still like playing with it.
Just as I enjoy going out in my 15 ft., 15 HP boat: just to ride around. It's not the greatest boat in the world but I enjoy it for what it is.
 
Replying to myself: METERS is, in fact, a primary reason: why I just bought a bridgeable PROTON D1200 in the last couple of weeks.
And I am going to be looking for another one after Feb 1. As I intend to use them bridged mono for my pair of homebuilt 4 Ohm subs (FR 20 Hz-80 Hz.
Why not get external VM's? - then you can pick an amp for its capabilities, and the VM's for their quite seperate values...



(But you do need to pick a good one!)
 
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