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Building a bookshelf speaker stand with a sub.

Will it work as a subwoofer?

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I would say not really.

What are you proposing to cross to this at 400hz?
 
Ascilab C6B has better LF response than the proposed sub so you won't gain much of anything and crossing so high with a LR2 you are going to have potential cancellation issues or run the sub inverted and in short most likely make things worse, and potentially much worse, that the speaker by itself. If you want a sub get a proper sub and cross it ~80 Hz. See Erin test data https://www.erinsaudiocorner.com/loudspeakers/ascilab_c6b/
 
Two of these subs in a 21l box with +8db 35Hz should do f3 of 32.5 Hz. It can do 97dB at Xmax and would need 78W. 2 of these would mean 103dB. I never play that loud.

But not sure if WinIsd is right
 
Two of these subs in a 21l box with +8db 35Hz should do f3 of 32.5 Hz. It can do 97dB at Xmax and would need 78W. 2 of these would mean 103dB. I never play that loud.

But not sure if WinIsd is right
+8 dB is a lot of boost in an area the driver is rolling off and distortion in increasing rapidly. I am also not sure about the power calculation as an 8 dB boost is going to take 6X the power . It doesn't make sense to me that you can get 97 dB at 32.5 Hz with 78 watts from a 7" driver. I am sure it will "work" in that is will make LF sounds but your main speakers are so good that you may make things worse, especially if you try to cross at 400 Hz with an LR 2. I love the idea of co-located subs and mains and have had success with the concept. I just don't think trying to use a 7" driver is the way to go when you really only need extra LF response. Free random internet advice and worth every penny. Good luck and have fun.
 
Agree with @levimax on this, 4x 7" drivers is not going to get you a huge amount of bass, and crossing at 400hz or even 200hz will tend to make the overall response worse compared to just the mains. The C6B doesn't even start rolling off until 70-80hz, why not cross there like a normal sub?

I don't think using a sub with the C6B is a bad idea in general, but why are you using small drivers with a high proposed crossover?

These drivers are not cheap, either. You can get an SVS SB1000 for around the same money, although it won't give you a stand.
 
Agree with @levimax on this, 4x 7" drivers is not going to get you a huge amount of bass, and crossing at 400hz or even 200hz will tend to make the overall response worse compared to just the mains. The C6B doesn't even start rolling off until 70-80hz, why not cross there like a normal sub?

I don't think using a sub with the C6B is a bad idea in general, but why are you using small drivers with a high proposed crossover?

These drivers are not cheap, either. You can get an SVS SB1000 for around the same money, although it won't give you a stand.
The idea for 400hz was to minimize group delay so it would work with just a passive filter. I have been playing around with Linkwitz Transform and it seems the drivers can do f3 25Hz 91dB, for the pair that is 97dB more than plenty for me. If crossing at 400hz doesn't work out I will have the get a mini dsp. Or I go second dac route with https://www.minidsp.com/products/usb-audio-interface/mchstreamer-lite so I can do dsp in foobar, in that case I will cross at 80Hz.
 
The idea for 400hz was to minimize group delay so it would work with just a passive filter. I have been playing around with Linkwitz Transform and it seems the drivers can do f3 25Hz 91dB, for the pair that is 97dB more than plenty for me. If crossing at 400hz doesn't work out I will have the get a mini dsp. Or I go second dac route with https://www.minidsp.com/products/usb-audio-interface/mchstreamer-lite so I can do dsp in foobar, in that case I will cross at 80Hz.
Makes sense, but I think group delay is probably a much less audible problem than taking the lower midrange out of the mains and into the sub, as it were. Depending on how far the sub drivers are from the mains you're going to be able to localize the drivers, and you might also get some unwanted and audible acoustic cancelation.

The wavelength at 400hz is less than 1m and in theory the distance between the centers of the drivers should be no more than 1/2 the wavelength at the xover and ideally 1/4. Depending on how you build this, that might be challenging.

Since it sounds like you are using a PC as a source, I would say it's probably easier just to cross at 80hz and then use FIR somewhere in your signal chain to correct any GD you want to get rid of.
 
Makes sense, but I think group delay is probably a much less audible problem than taking the lower midrange out of the mains and into the sub, as it were. Depending on how far the sub drivers are from the mains you're going to be able to localize the drivers, and you might also get some unwanted and audible acoustic cancelation.

The wavelength at 400hz is less than 1m and in theory the distance between the centers of the drivers should be no more than 1/2 the wavelength at the xover and ideally 1/4. Depending on how you build this, that might be challenging.

Since it sounds like you are using a PC as a source, I would say it's probably easier just to cross at 80hz and then use FIR somewhere in your signal chain to correct any GD you want to get rid of.
I would build a box say 2 stacked CB6 (bit taller) the drivers would go on top so they would sit just below the C6B woofer. But I am never going to get the passive filter right first time I think and those parts can get expensive. So I am going with plan B.

Same box with 2 https://sbacoustics.com/product/10in-sw26dbac76-8/ on the sides (force canceling). I can keep the sub as wide as the C6B, It will be just a bit deeper but that is no problem. They should do F3 20Hz, And because they get pushed less hard they consume less power too.
 
The idea for 400hz was to minimize group delay so it would work with just a passive filter. I have been playing around with Linkwitz Transform and it seems the drivers can do f3 25Hz 91dB, for the pair that is 97dB more than plenty for me. If crossing at 400hz doesn't work out I will have the get a mini dsp. Or I go second dac route with https://www.minidsp.com/products/usb-audio-interface/mchstreamer-lite so I can do dsp in foobar, in that case I will cross at 80Hz.
Since you are going to co-locate the speakers and subs as long as the centers are ~1/4 wavelength or less apart and lined up you can use complementary Linear Phase crossover filters because the pre-ringing will cancel and you will mostly eliminate group delay. As mentioned a high cross with shallow crossovers are going to result in many problems especially cancellation. If you try it make sure you take measurements before and after adding the sub to make sure you are not making things worse. Those Ascilabs speakers are really good above 50 Hz and you don't want to spoil that.

You need to be careful going from calculations to the real world when you are talking about boosting small drivers, there are physical and mechanical limits. There is no way a 7" driver will even get up to the threshold of hearing which is ~ 78 dB at 20 Hz. They might make some type of noise because of all the higher harmonic distortion and flop around and most likely bottom out but they are not going to help with 20 Hz music playback.
 
Since you are going to co-locate the speakers and subs as long as the centers are ~1/4 wavelength or less apart and lined up you can use complementary Linear Phase crossover filters because the pre-ringing will cancel and you will mostly eliminate group delay. As mentioned a high cross with shallow crossovers are going to result in many problems especially cancellation. If you try it make sure you take measurements before and after adding the sub to make sure you are not making things worse. Those Ascilabs speakers are really good above 50 Hz and you don't want to spoil that.

You need to be careful going from calculations to the real world when you are talking about boosting small drivers, there are physical and mechanical limits. There is no way a 7" driver will even get up to the threshold of hearing which is ~ 78 dB at 20 Hz. They might make some type of noise because of all the higher harmonic distortion and flop around and most likely bottom out but they are not going to help with 20 Hz music playback.
I hear you, I am going with the 10inchers anyway. Only time in my life I will ever build a sub so might as well do it good. Btw those 7 inchers have an incredible Xmax of 14.7mm, that is 29.4mm peak to peak lol, most of us will run out of amp power before they bottom out.

 
I hear you, I am going with the 10inchers anyway. Only time in my life I will ever build a sub so might as well do it good. Btw those 7 inchers have an incredible Xmax of 14.7mm, that is 29.4mm peak to peak lol, most of us will run out of amp power before they bottom out.

Glad you are going with the 10 " drivers, I think it will work out better for you. That Xmax is good for a 7" driver but to keep it in perspective see below :)

Stereo Integrity HS-24 24" High Excursion Carbon Driver​

– 36 mm one-way Xmax (72 mm total linear excursion) with over 120 mm peak-to-peak stroke
 
Same box with 2 https://sbacoustics.com/product/10in-sw26dbac76-8/ on the sides (force canceling). I can keep the sub as wide as the C6B, It will be just a bit deeper but that is no problem. They should do F3 20Hz, And because they get pushed less hard they consume less power too.
This seems a lot more reasonable to me, this is basically what I would do in your situation. Force cancelling is key for a bass stand. Should sound amazing once you get them integrated...
 
Just a heads up 6-8mm is real Xmax on these when you model them. I use 8x of these for my mains. They only need about 1cf box per pair so they were perfect for my 7.25” wide mains. Also you can save some money and buy from tlhp in France after shipping they were $237 each including teriffs.
 
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