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Buckeye PURIFI 1ET9040BA Amp Review

Rate this amplifier:

  • 1. Poor (headless panther)

    Votes: 3 0.8%
  • 2. Not terrible (postman panther)

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • 3. Fine (happy panther)

    Votes: 29 8.1%
  • 4. Great (golfing panther)

    Votes: 326 91.1%

  • Total voters
    358
Thanks Amir!
A perfect black box. Shame I am a frick of blue lights and vu meters.. ;)

:D
 
There will always be people in denial about Class D.
I feel sorry for them:)
Yeah. I couldn't be happier with my Hypex NC400 monoblocks from their DIY store and the Buckeye NC250 I bought a few years ago. It's just astounding how well they perform.
 
A previous owner of my house added wiring and a panel box to support a (now removed) whole-house electric furnace.


How much electrical power would the Buckeye PURIFI 1ET9040BA amplifier draw at near maximum power output ?
The amplifier has a 15-amp IEC power inlet, so the maximum power it can safely draw (assuming a 120-volt supply) could not exceed 1,800 volt-amps. It would be best for each monoblock to have its own dedicated 15A or 20A electrical circuit.
 
The amplifier has a 15-amp IEC power inlet, so the maximum power it can safely draw (assuming a 120-volt supply) could not exceed 1,800 volt-amps. It would be best for each monoblock to have its own dedicated 15A or 20A electrical circuit.
In actual usage, you can safely run both monoblocks off of a single 15A circuit.

For reference, when I had a dedicated HT setup I had 3 channels of NCx500, 12 channels of NC502MP, a JVC Laser projector, room lights, and all my components (processor, xbox, etc) all running off a single 15A circuit and routinely watched movies at reference levels and never had a single issue.
 
only supposed to bow the doors off.png
 
View attachment 501899

IIRC, Dylan mentioned that a very small percentage of his customers opted for a color other than Black and that surprised me.

I regard the surcharge and wait time as reasonable and thank Buckeye Amps (and KEF) for bringing more color to high fidelity.

Sadly, the option of an anodized aluminum finish is no longer available.
This looks excellent especially this two tone anodising. Box still industrial but cool industrial :)
 
The amplifier has a 15-amp IEC power inlet, so the maximum power it can safely draw (assuming a 120-volt supply) could not exceed 1,800 volt-amps. It would be best for each monoblock to have its own dedicated 15A or 20A electrical circuit.
In the unlikely event your single speaker ever actually draws this amp's maximum power, it could only be for the briefest of transients. Even with two of them, that's unlikely to trip a breaker. Your typical breaker operates thermally, and briefly exceeding the amperage will not immediately trip it (and is perfectly safe for the wiring).

If you want to get more technical, you can research circuit breaker trip curves:
1767632815117.png


The breakers in your load center are likely of the C curve variety. The X-axis is multiples of the rated capacity (typically 15A or 20A). As you can see (if you squint, sorry for the low res image), at 5 times the rated amperage (so 75A or 100A) it would take at least a full second for the breaker to trip. This is actually a good thing, as otherwise the inrush current from the compressor on your fridge or the motor on your vacuum would be constantly tripping the breakers.

Edit: Since it's not obvious just from looking, I should probably explain the graph a bit more. The area inside the two blue lines is "may trip", so the breaker could potentially trip in the time shown on the Y-axis when the current is the multiple of the rated capacity on the X-axis. Outside that area to the left is "will not trip". Anything outside that area to the right is where the breaker "will trip".

This image shows it more clearly:
1767638725167.png
 
Last edited:
I hope the PURIFI 1ET6525SA is just as good but with 450 watts per channel, so I can get my end game amp for half the price :) and on a 15 amp circuit :) for my entire sound system and TV.
 
In the unlikely event your single speaker ever actually draws this amp's maximum power, it could only be for the briefest of transients. Even with two of them, that's unlikely to trip a breaker. Your typical breaker operates thermally, and briefly (as in for milliseconds) exceeding the amperage will not immediately trip it (and is perfectly safe for the wiring).

If you want to get more technical, you can research circuit breaker trip curves:
View attachment 501917

The breakers in your load center are likely of the C curve variety. The X-axis is multiples of the rated capacity (typically 15A or 20A). As you can see (if you squint, sorry for the low res image), at 5 times the rated amperage (so 75A or 100A) it would take at least a full second for the breaker to trip. This is actually a good thing, as otherwise the inrush current from the compressor on your fridge or the motor on your vacuum would be constantly tripping the breakers.
Thanks for the graphs, absolutely useful information. It definitely helps to remind people just how much peak/transient current a home breaker can handle.
 
In the unlikely event your single speaker ever actually draws this amp's maximum power, it could only be for the briefest of transients. Even with two of them, that's unlikely to trip a breaker. Your typical breaker operates thermally, and briefly exceeding the amperage will not immediately trip it (and is perfectly safe for the wiring).

If you want to get more technical, you can research circuit breaker trip curves:
View attachment 501917

The breakers in your load center are likely of the C curve variety. The X-axis is multiples of the rated capacity (typically 15A or 20A). As you can see (if you squint, sorry for the low res image), at 5 times the rated amperage (so 75A or 100A) it would take at least a full second for the breaker to trip. This is actually a good thing, as otherwise the inrush current from the compressor on your fridge or the motor on your vacuum would be constantly tripping the breakers.
Large toaster-ovens are the enemy. Not amps :)
 
I hope the PURIFI 1ET6525SA is just as good but with 450 watts per channel, so I can get my end game amp for half the price :) and on a 15 amp circuit :) for my entire sound system and TV.

So you can quickly compare, check attached file
 

Attachments

  • THD+N Comparison_1ET6525SA.png
    THD+N Comparison_1ET6525SA.png
    143.5 KB · Views: 302
Thank you !!!!

Finally, just what I needed, no more, no less.
 
Thanks Amir, I've been looking forwards to this review for some time.
The SINAD was a touch disappointing, but the HF linearity and load tolerance were brilliant.
This might go to set the highest ever vote.
 
Incredible work by Buckeye with this. I use the Apollon variants but yes these are robust amplifier topologies and I'm glad to see such incredible and nimble performance
 
Many thanks @amirm for the review and congrats to @Buckeye Amps for building such a great amp and offering it at a price that even every student could afford two of these state-of-the-art devices with the earnings from a single holiday job.

I ultimately ordered my 9040s from Apollon, but honestly only for ‘non-technical’ reasons and not because I believe that they are in any way superior to the Buckeye amps:

  1. I simply prefer the look of the Apollon casing
  2. It's less stressful for me as an EU resident to order devices within the EU rather than from the US
  3. I got an extended 5-year warranty (which I will probably/hopefully never need).
 
That was on their roadmap at the moment they released their first amplifier board. I guess they concluded others could also design a capable SMPS.
That was the "good enough" days though, before they reach this kind of performance.
@Lars Risbo,please reconsider, go over and beyond!
 
So you can quickly compare, check attached file
So about half the power with similar measurements for half the price. Pretty good!
 
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