Why?
so it is easier for others to find and not in a review thread?
Why?
Will be working with Rick to relocate these side topic discussions. Please stop posting until we relocate the side conversation posts to a different thread. If you continue off topic posting in this review thread. Your posts may be deleted without further warning.Yes, but they are usually helpful. Will request assistance. Thanks!
What are you calling "brick wall" filter? Here is the response of AUX-0040:
That is flat to nearly 100 kHz and then goes down by 500 KHz. The filter requirement is due to front-end of Audio Precision analyzer not being able to handle the high frequency noise. It upsets its auto-scalar among other things. Other analyzers don't need such filters.
What would stop you buying a 4 channel amp from Buckeye with 2 x hypex 502 for the woofers and 2 x hypex 252 for the tweeters? Dylan will mix and match for you with a cost of ~$1,000 and a massive amount of clean power. Still "reasonable" IMO.I don't give a dam' what the shit looks like, just make sure the price reflects it.
What keeps me away from class D (as totally non technical guy) is lack of speaker outputs for bi wiring, that is my guilty pleasure, be it effective or not.
Mix and match would just be me assembling two different amp modules in one case. Absolutely nothing different would need done on your end.Well, exactly 'mix and match' is what keeps me away. I am a non audio technical guy so I stick with Yamaha AS1100 for the moment, I mean a turnkey solution.I run away when I hear about using a screwdriver to change 'gain' or whatever. I am an audio enthusiast, not a DIYer, you know.
I am not kidding, just giving you a lay perspective on class D.
Bespoke/custom/variations has nothing to do with class D.Well, exactly 'mix and match' is what keeps me away. I am a non audio technical guy so I stick with Yamaha AS1100 for the moment, I mean a turnkey solution.I run away when I hear about using a screwdriver to change 'gain' or whatever. I am an audio enthusiast, not a DIYer, you know.
I am not kidding, just giving you a lay perspective on class D.
We manufacture all our enclosures in house from raw aluminum.I wonder who makes the cases for Apollon's pricier offerings?
How does the auto-turn-on work? Is there a low power standby mode on the power supply? Does it add any distortion when it is in auto mode?
Its baffling to me why this amp cannot produce a 20Hz signal (or lower?) at full power, but instead goes into protection mode.This is a review and detailed measurements of the Buckeye NC252MP balanced stereo class D amplifier. It was kindly drop shipped to me by a member and costs US $575.
View attachment 315040
The amp is almost the size of a loaf of bread and literally weighs nearly as much! Amazing how far amplification technology has come. The package is made to be economical and intended to be heard than seen. Back panel is what you expect to see with notable inclusion of trigger input to automatically power the amp from the source:
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If you are not familiar with the tests that are about to follow, please watch my video on understanding amplifier measurements.
Buckeye NC252MP Amplifier Measurements
We start with our 5 watt dashboard into 4 ohm:
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Nice and competent, landing in our top bracket of all amplifiers tested:
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Noise performance is excellent:
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Frequency response is flat in audible band and load independent (not all class D amps are):
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Crosstalk is excellent:
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Intermodulation distortion is very low:
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You buy the amp for power so let's see how much we have:
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Nice to see it meet spec.
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The amp passes reactive loads at 8 and 4 ohms. At 2 ohm, it would go into protection before reaching peak power:
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Non-linearity does increase at higher frequencies, and there is noticeable power drop at 20 Hz:
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EDIT: a later run of this test produced lower distortion at 20 Hz. I meant to post it but made a mistake and post the older one:
There is good bit of power on/off noise:
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Amp is stable on power up:
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Conclusions
The NC252MP delivers the promise of the hypex class D module, producing competent and above average performance in every measured category. It is light and easy to carry. And produces good bit of power without much heat.
I am going to recommend the Buckeye N252MP.
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As always, questions, comments, recommendations, etc. are welcome.
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Both of these points were discussed extensively in the thread and cleared up/better explained by Amir.Its baffling to me why this amp cannot produce a 20Hz signal (or lower?) at full power, but instead goes into protection mode.
Also the tested amp can't handle a 2 ohm load (resistive, inductive or capacitive) , despite what the manufacture states.
What's going on with this amp???
Sweet do you have a CNC machine?We manufacture all our enclosures in house from raw aluminum.
Aren’t KEF speakers hard to drive since they are 4 Ohms and go down to 2 Ohms?Both of these points were discussed extensively in the thread and cleared up/better explained by Amir.
Yes, we have two big CNC machines, laser engravers, 3D printers and UV printers.Sweet do you have a CNC machine?
Too bad you aren’t based in the US
Down to 2ohms would be considered hard to drive, yes. But our amps have no issues doing so.Aren’t KEF speakers hard to drive since they are 4 Ohms and go down to 2 Ohms?
No, you might just need to consider the NC502MP version of this amplifier from Buckeye, which provides twice the power. Twice the power, of course, means only a 3 dB gain in power output and therefore maximum listening level. I judge the 502 to provide 330 Watts into the 6 ohms at which my Revel F12's are nominally rated, reported at the knee of the distortion graph (meaning--better than 1% distortion--more like a hundredth of that).At this price, it seems like a class AB killer.
Except for not having any headroom and its 8ohm power is not stupendous. And most of my speakers are nominally 8 ohms and my living room speakers are small but fantastic stand mount Mirage MRM-1 (not a dipole) and have pretty low sensitivity (84-86db). Seems like headroom would be desirable for such speakers in a largish room, even with a sub crossed at 60-80hz.
Or is it not an issue in practice? I have run the speakers with amps ranging from 120 watts to supposedly 300 watts (though it was a carver sunfire 2x300 and I don’t buy the power claim) but always had amps with lots of headroom and high damping.
For example, the Schiit Vidar doesn’t have appreciably more power at 8ohms—though it does have headroom , measured well but not as well as this, and is almost $200 more.
Or does one really need to go up a pricing tier or two to $1200 to $3000 range for the latest ncore and purifi based units? Such as a pair of Nord classic monoblocks?