• WANTED: Happy members who like to discuss audio and other topics related to our interest. Desire to learn and share knowledge of science required as is 20 years of participation in forums (not all true). Come here to have fun, be ready to be teased and not take online life too seriously. We now measure and review equipment for free! Click here for details.

Buckeye Hypex NC252MP Amplifier Teardown

Buckeye Amps

Addicted to Fun and Learning
Manufacturer
Forum Donor
Joined
May 28, 2020
Messages
585
Likes
1,742
Newbie question/clarification:

If I am using NL4 speakON jacks but the customer only wants one channel connected, I would connect to +1/-1, correct? This way an NL2 cable would work correctly?
 

Labjr

Addicted to Fun and Learning
Joined
Dec 14, 2018
Messages
793
Likes
707
Newbie question/clarification:

If I am using NL4 speakON jacks but the customer only wants one channel connected, I would connect to +1/-1, correct? This way an NL2 cable would work correctly?
That sounds right.
 

Trdat

Addicted to Fun and Learning
Forum Donor
Joined
Sep 6, 2019
Messages
618
Likes
231
Location
Armenia "Sydney Born"
View attachment 100589

Can someone please tell me a little more about the extra wire that is connnected to the top of the XLR connector, the one that is bolted ? Some type of grounding. Where does it connect from to where(obviously I can see where its connected to) but I mean the purpose and in particular where from?

Also, there is the white and blue wire which is the negative and positive but the third wire which I am presuming is another type of grounding is not connected to the third slot(hole) but to the side with a female terminal connector. Can't that just go into the 3rd ground hole that's made for it? Or is this something different?
 

Labjr

Addicted to Fun and Learning
Joined
Dec 14, 2018
Messages
793
Likes
707
View attachment 100589

Can someone please tell me a little more about the extra wire that is connnected to the top of the XLR connector, the one that is bolted ? Some type of grounding. Where does it connect from to where(obviously I can see where its connected to) but I mean the purpose and in particular where from?

Also, there is the white and blue wire which is the negative and positive but the third wire which I am presuming is another type of grounding is not connected to the third slot(hole) but to the side with a female terminal connector. Can't that just go into the 3rd ground hole that's made for it? Or is this something different?

The black wire is to connect Pin1(shield) of the XLR jack to chassis ground. The wire with the female terminal is the signal ground for one the of the amplifier channels. It has to go to ground also. Not Pin 1 of the XLR jack.
 

Trdat

Addicted to Fun and Learning
Forum Donor
Joined
Sep 6, 2019
Messages
618
Likes
231
Location
Armenia "Sydney Born"
The black wire is to connect Pin1(shield) of the XLR jack to chassis ground. The wire with the female terminal is the signal ground for one the of the amplifier channels. It has to go to ground also. Not Pin 1 of the XLR jack.

Thanks for this. There is a few other threads that also go into detail regarding wrong wiring and you have explained it in simple form. Apprecaite the response I think it's fairly understandable.
 

nstzya

Active Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2021
Messages
142
Likes
107
Location
Indianapolis
I really appreciate it!

If you had access to 502's and 252's and your LCR were 4ohm speakers, would you just use two 502's or three bridged 252's, knowing that the cost difference is actually cheaper using the 252's?

Or is the hair splitting of possible differences you outlined above negligible?

The other small consideration is the rest of my speakers are all run off 252's so if I did a bridged setup for the front I would be able to correctly set input sensitivity on my HTP-1 (whereas right now it's splitting the difference between Vrms of the 252s and 502s I'm using).

So... am I right to conclude that - in the special case where you have only 2Vrms limits on your preamp and/or DAC output section - it would seem that the bridged 252's with their 1.7 Vrms sensitivity might be the better option?? (rather than the 2.7Vrms sensitivity of the 502's)
 

Trdat

Addicted to Fun and Learning
Forum Donor
Joined
Sep 6, 2019
Messages
618
Likes
231
Location
Armenia "Sydney Born"
The black wire is to connect Pin1(shield) of the XLR jack to chassis ground. The wire with the female terminal is the signal ground for one the of the amplifier channels. It has to go to ground also. Not Pin 1 of the XLR jack.

I've been reading more about XLR wiring and curious if I wire the Hypex module the way you have mentioned above does that mean I can use a typical XLR cable that is wired with the shield to pin 1? Why ask is because I see a lot of recommendations regarding XLR cable wiring and although I don't fully understand the amendments that need to be made such as wiring the shield to chassis ground rather than signal ground I am presuming that the above wiring will ensure that the shield wire will end up to the chassis right?
 

arczar

New Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2021
Messages
4
Likes
5
I have a similar question:

According to the document on the hypex website, the signal cable shield from the amplifier board should be connected to the housing (not to PIN 1). PIN 1 should also be connected to the case, but in a different place.
The question is: should these points be common to the L and R channels?
Or:

PIN 1 of L channel and PIN 1 of P channel to one place (in my photo the screw fixing the XLR socket) and the L channel screen and P channel screen to one place (e.g. bottom of the amplifier)

or maybe they should be 4 different points?

IMG_20210422_221204457_2_45.jpg
 

AdamG247

Hearing damage on steroids!!! Shockwave of Bass.
Moderator
Forum Donor
Joined
Jan 3, 2021
Messages
1,950
Likes
4,326
I have a similar question:

According to the document on the hypex website, the signal cable shield from the amplifier board should be connected to the housing (not to PIN 1). PIN 1 should also be connected to the case, but in a different place.
The question is: should these points be common to the L and R channels?
Or:

PIN 1 of L channel and PIN 1 of P channel to one place (in my photo the screw fixing the XLR socket) and the L channel screen and P channel screen to one place (e.g. bottom of the amplifier)

or maybe they should be 4 different points?

View attachment 125679
Welcome Aboard @arczar.
 

babadono

Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2021
Messages
8
Likes
3
Pin 1 to chassis is the correct way to wire XLR connectors. Keep the inter chassis' current on the chassis. Not going into signal ground. Signal ground should only have one point of connection to the chassis and it is usually at the power supply.
Any doubts search the web for "Pin 1 problems".
 

Loron

Member
Forum Donor
Joined
May 17, 2021
Messages
41
Likes
33
Got my Christmas gift on Monday!!
A new Buckeye Amp 6 channels… yeah
This will replace my Sherwood Newcastle A965 that is driving my Atmos height speakers. When Dylan offers Purifi I might replace my Rotel RMB1585 for my main 5 channels.

Amp was packed real well in a heavy duty cardboard box. Very well done.

Lay out of the amp modules in the case have changed compared to when Amir reviewed this model. I won’t be able to switch the amp because I will be traveling to see my family for Christmas.

I am posting pictures of the amp. Can’t wait to audition.
 

Attachments

  • 76003DCB-4079-4D01-ACA6-D56F1F320201.jpeg
    76003DCB-4079-4D01-ACA6-D56F1F320201.jpeg
    345.2 KB · Views: 92
  • 64B44618-E42D-494F-9ED2-9F3A722B4A1A.jpeg
    64B44618-E42D-494F-9ED2-9F3A722B4A1A.jpeg
    335.2 KB · Views: 76
  • 4BAD3933-B3E4-4606-AE98-03153943BC54.jpeg
    4BAD3933-B3E4-4606-AE98-03153943BC54.jpeg
    328.8 KB · Views: 80
  • DDEE6E9D-D7AB-4408-91C1-B7D7627B1BCE.jpeg
    DDEE6E9D-D7AB-4408-91C1-B7D7627B1BCE.jpeg
    259.9 KB · Views: 90
  • FB68FDBD-BFA9-42F1-A192-7373B2FFBE80.jpeg
    FB68FDBD-BFA9-42F1-A192-7373B2FFBE80.jpeg
    367.7 KB · Views: 102
  • 68DC1EC0-AC9A-4342-A6B2-CEF2C0EA2989.jpeg
    68DC1EC0-AC9A-4342-A6B2-CEF2C0EA2989.jpeg
    241.3 KB · Views: 108
  • 46882967-320C-4C81-BDE1-192108DECD60.jpeg
    46882967-320C-4C81-BDE1-192108DECD60.jpeg
    376.6 KB · Views: 107
Last edited:

Buckeye Amps

Addicted to Fun and Learning
Manufacturer
Forum Donor
Joined
May 28, 2020
Messages
585
Likes
1,742
As promised, bare aluminum rolling out in my cases. Large first. Once my existing blanket order is filled on remaining Medium and Small cases those will be bare, too.

Doing my best to always improve for you all! Big thanks to this community.
 

Buckeye Amps

Addicted to Fun and Learning
Manufacturer
Forum Donor
Joined
May 28, 2020
Messages
585
Likes
1,742
Bare aluminum? Is this in reference to the grounding point? Or something else?
The inside bottom panel and inside back panel are no longer being powder coated, so it is the bare aluminum showing, which results in better grounding and heat transfer.
 

amper42

Addicted to Fun and Learning
Joined
Dec 21, 2020
Messages
853
Likes
1,022
Got my Christmas gift on Monday!!
A new Buckeye Amp 6 channels… yeah
This will replace my Sherwood Newcastle A965 that is driving my Atmos height speakers. When Dylan offers Purifi I might replace my Rotel RMB1585 for my main 5 channels.

Amp was packed real well in a heavy duty cardboard box. Very well done.

Lay out of the amp modules in the case have changed compared to when Amir reviewed this model. I won’t be able to switch the amp because I will be traveling to see my family for Christmas.

I am posting pictures of the amp. Can’t wait to audition.

Nice pictures.
 
Last edited:

Buckeye Amps

Addicted to Fun and Learning
Manufacturer
Forum Donor
Joined
May 28, 2020
Messages
585
Likes
1,742
Nice pictures. For your security I would suggest removing the first box picture that displays your name and address. With this data posted online anyone can see exactly where you live and that you have a nice audio system. You also disclose you will be traveling for Christmas. If you are not planning to be home with a shot gun during this time, I would remove the bread crumbs you are dropping. :D:p:oops::cool:
 

Attachments

  • harry-and-marv.jpg
    harry-and-marv.jpg
    137.9 KB · Views: 7

Jdunk54nl

Addicted to Fun and Learning
Joined
Aug 5, 2020
Messages
791
Likes
806
Location
Arizona
Nice pictures. For your security I would suggest removing the first box picture that displays your name and address. With this data posted online anyone can see exactly where you live and that you have a nice audio system. You also disclose you will be traveling for Christmas. If you are not planning to be home with a shot gun during this time, I would remove the bread crumbs you are dropping. :D:p:oops::cool:

Really that is going to be Buckeye’s future career. Audiophile thief. He is just building his list of people that have his amps to keep him “in business” for the foreseeable future.

Really, what more can you expect from someone that lives in Ohio and has an amp brand of buckeye (I know he says he is really a Michigan fan….but a real Michigan fan could never do that ;) )
 

DonH56

Master Contributor
Technical Expert
Forum Donor
Joined
Mar 15, 2016
Messages
5,804
Likes
10,504
Location
Monument, CO
Really that is going to be Buckeye’s future career. Audiophile thief. He is just building his list of people that have his amps to keep him “in business” for the foreseeable future.

Really, what more can you expect from someone that lives in Ohio and has an amp brand of buckeye (I know he says he is really a Michigan fan….but a real Michigan fan could never do that ;) )
If that were true, I suggest he find better role models than he posted above... :)
 

Srrndhound

Member
Technical Expert
Industry Insider
Joined
Feb 12, 2020
Messages
15
Likes
8
The way I have them wired now is that Pin 3 (Vout Standby) from the first module is connected to the 12v relay then split coming off the relay going to each modules PS Enable. This way of wiring I confirmed with Hypex was OK (essentially one modules Vout Standby can be used to control the PS Enable of multiple modules).
I'm curious about the need for the relay. Why not just connect the DC trigger input jack directly to the PS Enable pin of each module? It will use less current (0.5 mA per module) than the relay coil, and saves the cost of the relay.
 
Top Bottom