I will be receiving my 4 channel NC252MP soon. I will be powering my LCR which are Revel F36. They are 6ohm speakers. I'm trying to calculate estimated peak SPL at my listening distance. 8ohm spec for this amp is 150wpc and 4ohm is 250wpc. What should I expect for 6ohm? 200wpc? Thanks.
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Buckeye Amps: New US based Hypex multichannel amplifier builder, line-up announcement!
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squared80
Member
200 W is probably close enough. Peaks will actually probably be a bit higher, 225 W+, but you're likely already pushing what your ears can (or should) take.
P = V * I = V^2 / R = I^2 * R so linear with respect to R meaning you can just linearly interpolate as you did to get 200 W. Ideally you'd get 300 W into 4 ohms, doubling as resistance is halved, to yield 225 W into 6 ohms and that's probably what it will do on short peaks.
HTH - Don
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Thanks that helps. I knew it wasn’t completely linear and figured 200w should be ballpark but wasn’t sure. My MLP in the first row is fairly close at ~9ft so I should be able to hit 105db peaks if ever needed although I tend to listen well below reference. Good to have the headroom though.
OP
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The new "full time" committment is going great and I am flying through orders.
Due to this, I am removing the down payment option since wait time on new orders is about 4wks.
Thank you everyone!
Due to this, I am removing the down payment option since wait time on new orders is about 4wks.
Thank you everyone!
OP
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Better late than never:
I had always said I would make a simple guide/visual on how to bridge the NC502MP/NC252MP externally without modifying the internal wiring. Here it is!
1) Acquire a Female to Male Y-Splitter
2) Leave one Y splitter end as-is (do not modify)
3) Unscrew the other Y splitter end and swap the wires for Pin 2 and 3 (will need to solder)...see attached picture for pin orientation when looking directly at the Male end
4) Once modified, attach the unmodified Y splitter end to Channel 1 and the modified Y splitter end to Channel 2
5) Attach the Positive (Red) Channel 1 binding post on the amp to the Positive (Red) terminal on the speaker
6) Attach the Positive (Red) Channel 2 binding post on the amp to the Negative (Black) terminal on the speaker
*Both Negative (Black) binding posts for Channel 1 and 2 on the amp will remain unused
Attached is a simple diagram
If the DIY route above is not doable, an easy route is to order a Female to Male XLR Y-splitter from Blue Jeans Cable and ask for one of the Male ends to be wired out-of-phase (you would need one such Y cable per bridged channel).
I had always said I would make a simple guide/visual on how to bridge the NC502MP/NC252MP externally without modifying the internal wiring. Here it is!
1) Acquire a Female to Male Y-Splitter
2) Leave one Y splitter end as-is (do not modify)
3) Unscrew the other Y splitter end and swap the wires for Pin 2 and 3 (will need to solder)...see attached picture for pin orientation when looking directly at the Male end
4) Once modified, attach the unmodified Y splitter end to Channel 1 and the modified Y splitter end to Channel 2
5) Attach the Positive (Red) Channel 1 binding post on the amp to the Positive (Red) terminal on the speaker
6) Attach the Positive (Red) Channel 2 binding post on the amp to the Negative (Black) terminal on the speaker
*Both Negative (Black) binding posts for Channel 1 and 2 on the amp will remain unused
Attached is a simple diagram
If the DIY route above is not doable, an easy route is to order a Female to Male XLR Y-splitter from Blue Jeans Cable and ask for one of the Male ends to be wired out-of-phase (you would need one such Y cable per bridged channel).
Attachments
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ivo.f.doma
Active Member
Are OEM NcoreX amp boards available for you yet? Do you plan to make your amplifiers with them?
OP
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The NCx500 modules will be "readily available" towards end of Spring for OEM purchase.
I do plan to make amp models with them, however working on shoring up the Purifi offering first.
Just because I am too lazy to dig for it: @Buckeye Amps what is your current backlog, how long to ship an amp I order today?
Tnx - Don
Tnx - Don
read 4 posts up
Duh, four weeks, missed that. Long day... I'd delete my post but then yours would be hanging, so just leaving my inability to read or spend 10 extra seconds looking posted for all to see.read 4 posts up
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freedomgli
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I get why someone might want wall plates for certain loudspeakers in the room (box speakers like towers and bookshelves) to keep things tidy while also offering some flexibility for loudspeaker changes, as not every loudspeaker has the same inputs. But why have a wall plate at all on the AV rack side of things? Why not just have a pass through (rubber grommet or wall brush or simple hole) for all the speaker cables to connect directly to the amplifier? This would alleviate the need for another set of speaker umbilical cords between the wall plate and the amplifier(s).
Just a quick update on my 502 amp. I have the 6 channel version, but for now I'm only using two channels.
This is sort of an experiment to see how I like them in a recording studio control room. This is a very demanding environment. First, it operates in the neighborhood of 8hrs/day, but like all studios there are days that run into 16-18 hrs.
These days, the way studio control rooms work, there is a lot of recording in there as well as mixing/mastering. Most studios do guitars, keyboards and other things that are "direct in" and/or a "mic'd cabinet in another room" from the control room. It's just easier to communicate and operate and most modern control rooms are plenty big enough. But this also puts additional strain on the monitoring environment as some times they are used for very demanding things other than mixing.
And of course with lots of Rock/Metal recordings, the old adage of listening at 85db or less is thrown out the window. So there are many times when it's very LOUD!
The value of these amps in this environment is that they can produce a lot of power and they can run without fans so they are silent. My concerns with them are quality of the audio, which is paramount, and operating cool enough to not destroy them. Even though they produce very little heat when idle, they still produce a fair amount when pushed hard and these get pushed HARD on a regular basis.
From the reviews by Amir, I was pretty sure the quality would be ok. And subjectively comparing the audio to previous traditional amps, as suspected they sound excellent. So very happy with that aspect.
The heat looks to be ok as well. They do get fairly warm to the touch, but I don't believe they are overheating. The other nice feature is the "auto on" feature. That seems to work very well. With that feature we're considering putting the amp "out of sight" and removing the top cover. This will open it up and should improve the air flow and keep it plenty cool.
The verdict so far, after about a month, is very good. If things change or we have longer term problems, I'll come back here and post again.
This is sort of an experiment to see how I like them in a recording studio control room. This is a very demanding environment. First, it operates in the neighborhood of 8hrs/day, but like all studios there are days that run into 16-18 hrs.
These days, the way studio control rooms work, there is a lot of recording in there as well as mixing/mastering. Most studios do guitars, keyboards and other things that are "direct in" and/or a "mic'd cabinet in another room" from the control room. It's just easier to communicate and operate and most modern control rooms are plenty big enough. But this also puts additional strain on the monitoring environment as some times they are used for very demanding things other than mixing.
And of course with lots of Rock/Metal recordings, the old adage of listening at 85db or less is thrown out the window. So there are many times when it's very LOUD!
The value of these amps in this environment is that they can produce a lot of power and they can run without fans so they are silent. My concerns with them are quality of the audio, which is paramount, and operating cool enough to not destroy them. Even though they produce very little heat when idle, they still produce a fair amount when pushed hard and these get pushed HARD on a regular basis.
From the reviews by Amir, I was pretty sure the quality would be ok. And subjectively comparing the audio to previous traditional amps, as suspected they sound excellent. So very happy with that aspect.
The heat looks to be ok as well. They do get fairly warm to the touch, but I don't believe they are overheating. The other nice feature is the "auto on" feature. That seems to work very well. With that feature we're considering putting the amp "out of sight" and removing the top cover. This will open it up and should improve the air flow and keep it plenty cool.
The verdict so far, after about a month, is very good. If things change or we have longer term problems, I'll come back here and post again.
Any estimate of how the new "x" offerings will be priced compared to current Hypex lineup, Dylan? I was planning on waiting until later this year anyway to get a new/more powerful 2-channel amp...
OP
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My prelim estimate is around $649 for a mono and $949 for a 2ch.
VERY prelim estimate but a range I am working with
OP
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Will add to first post:
EAT for new builds are as follows:
2ch and 4ch builds are 1-2wks
6ch and 8ch builds are 3-4wks
EAT for new builds are as follows:
2ch and 4ch builds are 1-2wks
6ch and 8ch builds are 3-4wks
OP
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Still working on it...having an issue with the measurement rig that needs resolved first. May end up renting an AP if it comes to it.
restorer-john
Grand Contributor
Can you replicate the issue with the speaker terminals/rear panel and wiring to those terminals disconnected completely and directly connected to the amp module itself? The rear panel is steel correct? And those terminals are magnetic/brass?
In short, if you put a module, power supply and your buffer on the bench wired together, not in the chassis, is the issue still present?
OP
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Will give this a try, thank you!
The back panel/case is aluminum and the binding post terminals are gold plated (quick connects are brass)
Dylan, I wonder if Purifi will build a power supply that will take full advantage of the 7040sa's current capability (i.e. 950 watts into 2 ohms).
Any thoughts on this? I mean it seems kind of a waste to buy this module, without the power supply to drive it to it's full potential-
pawsman
Any thoughts on this? I mean it seems kind of a waste to buy this module, without the power supply to drive it to it's full potential-
pawsman
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