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Buckeye Amps: New US based Hypex multichannel amplifier builder, line-up announcement!

I can second siber.

My opinion of switching to Hypex modules for my setup has ten years of trying many different other brands and technologies as a hobbyist. Even if I wasn't selling these, my opinion is still that this is the best my system has sounded and performed. For ten years I was always browsing the selling section of AVS Forums or eBay, looking for a new amp to try because I never felt settled with a choice. But now I am satisfied. The sound is perfect, cost is low, almost no heat. And simple setup internally (no need to worry about a small proprietary part breaking, etc).
 
At this time I don't plan on stocking the single channel Hypex modules.

That said, I believe my price for the four channel amp offerings are still less then three channel offerings from other companies so you'd still be saving money. And in terms of performance, there's nothing different about using one channel of the two channel modules.

This might be a stupid question as I'm new to this, but is it possible to run two Hypex modules bridged per channel? So have six modules with three output channels? I understand it would be more expensive with six modules vs four and not using one channel for three channels, but is it possible with the cases you have?
 
This might be a stupid question as I'm new to this, but is it possible to run two Hypex modules bridged per channel? So have six modules with three output channels? I understand it would be more expensive with six modules vs four and not using one channel for three channels, but is it possible with the cases you have?
Yes this is definitely an option
 
Heads up: the NC252s are now on backorder from Hypex until mid December, so if anyone was on the fence of a build and wanted it in the next few weeks, I don't have much stock until the new order arrives. First come first serve :)
 
This thread may be the answer to my prayers. Over the last few months I've been lurking on the board here as well as doing research elsewhere in an attempt to educate myself on how to best upgrade my music system, it being one of the few things that brings me joy since a serious of unfortunate health and personal issues upended my life.

My biggest problem besides ignorance has been budget (disabled, low fixed income yada yada). Little by little I've learned enough to understand that the AVR's I've used in the past are less than ideal for hifi purposes, and that the hypex and/or purifi modules are the way to go for good clean power.

I didin't think I'd find prices that I could afford for hypex based (purifi's are still too rich for me) amp that didn't suffer from build issues etc like those of other bargain builders whose work I've seen examples of posted on this board and others but who shall remain nameless. But based on the photo's of your work (the internals particularly), and your attitude and approach in this thread, and your very reasonable prices, I might just be able to get an amp worthy of pairing with the Topping D70 I recently saved up for after finding ASR and reading the reviews and measurements for it (among others).

Expect a PM from me with a few questions as I try to determine my best path forward and how to figure the the finances.

Thx & Stay safe !
 
This thread may be the answer to my prayers. Over the last few months I've been lurking on the board here as well as doing research elsewhere in an attempt to educate myself on how to best upgrade my music system, it being one of the few things that brings me joy since a serious of unfortunate health and personal issues upended my life.

My biggest problem besides ignorance has been budget (disabled, low fixed income yada yada). Little by little I've learned enough to understand that the AVR's I've used in the past are less than ideal for hifi purposes, and that the hypex and/or purifi modules are the way to go for good clean power.

I didin't think I'd find prices that I could afford for hypex based (purifi's are still too rich for me) amp that didn't suffer from build issues etc like those of other bargain builders whose work I've seen examples of posted on this board and others but who shall remain nameless. But based on the photo's of your work (the internals particularly), and your attitude and approach in this thread, and your very reasonable prices, I might just be able to get an amp worthy of pairing with the Topping D70 I recently saved up for after finding ASR and reading the reviews and measurements for it (among others).

Expect a PM from me with a few questions as I try to determine my best path forward and how to figure the the finances.

Thx & Stay safe !
I appreciate the post and interest. If it helps, since payments are through PayPal, invoices can be paid with PayPal Credit for anyone who has an account.
 
Finished the first 6 channel NC502 build. Shipping out tomorrow.
 

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Someone requested pictures of all three cases side by side, so figured it would be good to add here:

The 19"x14" case, 17"x12" case, and 12"x12" case (all 2U height). Please note there are now top covers being made for the 12x12" cases and will have the smaller cutouts for safety before shipping out.
 

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This thread may be the answer to my prayers. Over the last few months I've been lurking on the board here as well as doing research elsewhere in an attempt to educate myself on how to best upgrade my music system, it being one of the few things that brings me joy since a serious of unfortunate health and personal issues upended my life.

My biggest problem besides ignorance has been budget (disabled, low fixed income yada yada).

I didin't think I'd find prices that I could afford for hypex based amps.

You and I seem to be in similar circumstances based on your description. Life hit me hard not to many years ago leaving me disabled, on a low fixed income, in chronic pain, and unable to participate in the life I once had. HiFi/Home Theater is the only hobby that keeps me sane.

I hate to say it, but it is almost comforting to know other people can comprehend what I'm going through. If you ever need someone to talk to about your situation please don't hesitate to dm me. Take care of yourself, good luck, and hope you and yours are doing well.

JJ
 
Someone requested pictures of all three cases side by side, so figured it would be good to add here:

The 19"x14" case, 17"x12" case, and 12"x12" case (all 2U height). Please note there are now top covers being made for the 12x12" cases and will have the smaller cutouts for safety before shipping out.
Thank you very much for taking the pics.

I noticed you mentioned a discount for multiple amps. If someone ordered one amp for evaluation, would it be possible to get a discount on the second amp in the future?
 
Thank you very much for taking the pics.

I noticed you mentioned a discount for multiple amps. If someone ordered one amp for evaluation, would it be possible to get a discount on the second amp in the future?
Of course. I'm keeping track of all orders so I can discount the second amp appropriately.
 
Question to make sure I am understanding the BTL mode for these modules correctly as a few people are interested: the impedance of the speaker being driven should be 4ohm or higher, as a 4ohm speaker would mean each amplifier channel is "seeing" a 2ohm load (so an 8ohm speaker would mean the amplifier channels would be "seeing" 4ohms each), correct?
 
Question to make sure I am understanding the BTL mode for these modules correctly as a few people are interested: the impedance of the speaker being driven should be 4ohm or higher, as a 4ohm speaker would mean each amplifier channel is "seeing" a 2ohm load (so an 8ohm speaker would mean the amplifier channels would be "seeing" 4ohms each), correct?

Yes, the above is correct, with Bridged Tied Load each amp see's half the impedance
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bridged_and_paralleled_amplifiers
 
Question to make sure I am understanding the BTL mode for these modules correctly as a few people are interested: the impedance of the speaker being driven should be 4ohm or higher, as a 4ohm speaker would mean each amplifier channel is "seeing" a 2ohm load (so an 8ohm speaker would mean the amplifier channels would be "seeing" 4ohms each), correct?
My understanding is instead of making a modification to the amp, one can use an adapter cable to put the amp in btl mode. March Audio has noted that:
"In fact I can do the BTL mod with the xlr input cables (swap phase on one input) so no need to mod the amp at all, just use an adaptor input cable. This means you can always revert to using it as a stereo amp. "
Offering such a cable to purchase might be nice to make it a simple task for customers to switch between stereo and bridge mode.
 
My understanding is instead of making a modification to the amp, one can use an adapter cable to put the amp in btl mode. March Audio has noted that:
"In fact I can do the BTL mod with the xlr input cables (swap phase on one input) so no need to mod the amp at all, just use an adaptor input cable. This means you can always revert to using it as a stereo amp. "
Offering such a cable to purchase might be nice to make it a simple task for customers to switch between stereo and bridge mode.
Here is the section from the Hypex data sheet on how to connect for bridging. Note that Hypex recommends only using 8 Ω speakers when bridging.
Hypex BTL.JPG
 
At this time I don't plan on stocking the single channel Hypex modules
Don't forget that another use for these multi-channel configurations is in conjunction with active crossovers; a three channel unit is perfect for three unit active speakers (possibly a high powered single channel unit for the LF and a dual channel unit for the mid and top).

On the other hand, a six channel configuration would be good for a stereo pair of three-unit active crossovers.

On the other hand, a seven channel configuration would be good for a stereo pair of three-unit active crossovers plus a hot spare, just in case.

It never ends.
 
Thanks, I looked that over and the wiring makes sense and is easy to implement. On the users side, would they just use a splitter to occupy the two XLR inputs?
 
Thanks, I looked that over and the wiring makes sense and is easy to implement. On the users side, would they just use a splitter to occupy the two XLR inputs?

Close, one side needs pin 2 and 3 swapped.
 
Close, one side needs pin 2 and 3 swapped.
Example: a user wants to run one subwoofer off BTL on an NC502. For their connection, they would use an XLR splitter to connect the subwoofer to the two XLR inputs for one module. On the inside for my wiring one of these inputs would be normal (Pin 2 = +, Pin = - ) and the other would be inverted (Pin 2 = -, Pin 3 = +). Then the binding posts would be wired as pictured by Hypex (Channel 1 + = Red, Channel 2 + = Black, both negatives connected together).

Is that correct?
 
Example: a user wants to run one subwoofer off BTL on an NC502. For their connection, they would use an XLR splitter to connect the subwoofer to the two XLR inputs for one module. On the inside for my wiring one of these inputs would be normal (Pin 2 = +, Pin = - ) and the other would be inverted (Pin 2 = -, Pin 3 = +). Then the binding posts would be wired as pictured by Hypex (Channel 1 + = Red, Channel 2 + = Black, both negatives connected together).

Is that correct?

Yes, I avoid internal amp wiring by just swapping pins 2 and 3 within the splitter cable.

Not sure why they show the speaker negatives connected (they already are for MP modules).
 
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