Buckeye Amps: New US based Hypex multichannel amplifier builder, line-up announcement!

[Matias]

4 usd without light ring (best for home theater imo).

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SPST NO Momentary 19mm Stainless Steel Waterproof Raised Push Button Tamper Proof Switch 6A 125VThis anti-vandal pushbutton switch is popular for use in kiosk applications, ticket dispensers and industrial-type applications. The stainless steel body and button stay looking great even with heavy...

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[Buckeye Amps]

4 usd without light ring (best for home theater imo).

Home

SPST NO Momentary 19mm Stainless Steel Waterproof Raised Push Button Tamper Proof Switch 6A 125VThis anti-vandal pushbutton switch is popular for use in kiosk applications, ticket dispensers and industrial-type applications. The stainless steel body and button stay looking great even with heavy...

www.parts-express.com

I was trying to preserve the light ring. It is easier for those who don't want light to block it out or dim it, vs not having an LED at all for those who do want an indicator.

 

[HammerSandwich]

And yes, I would finally flip the XLR inputs for this one (and have the speaker binding posts on the bottom below them)

 

[Buckeye Amps]

Final touch I am working on for the new case are the heatsinks. I will be using bare aluminum L brackets with thermal grease between the modules and the L bracket. The heatsink will then be attached to the L bracket backside.

Would thermal adhesive tape work good or is the only option worth it to use thermal grease on the heatsink and attach to the L bracket with screws?

 

[Buckeye Amps]

Did someone say teaser pics?

 

[Rick Sykora]

Final touch I am working on for the new case are the heatsinks. I will be using bare aluminum L brackets with thermal grease between the modules and the L bracket. The heatsink will then be attached to the L bracket backside.

Would thermal adhesive tape work good or is the only option worth it to use thermal grease on the heatsink and attach to the L bracket with screws?

Not sure here, think you need a pic. Are you proposing the amp modules are mounted vertically?

Generally, more mass and more contact area are better.

 

[Buckeye Amps]

Not sure here, think you need a pic. Are you proposing the amp modules are mounted vertically?

Generally, more mass and more contact area are better.

They will be mounted vertically (on their sides), like the Apollon and upcoming Monolith 8ch amps

 

[Rick Sykora]

They will be mounted vertically (on their sides), like the Apollon and upcoming Monolith 8ch amps

So, your L-bracket would be the heatsink or ?

 

[amper42]

Black electrical tape over 90% of the front blue LED on my new Nc502mp Buckeye amp makes the light much more appealing and less abusive.

The RME ADI-2 DAC FS only uses 6W and the Nc502mp 24W at my listening levels. That Blue LED is probably 1W by itself. lol

 

[Buckeye Amps]

So, your L-bracket would be the heatsink or ?

No, I plan on mounting an actual heatsink to the back of every L bracket.
The brackets will be 230mmx130mm aluminum and the heatsinks will be 220mmx110mm (about 14-18mm height). Waiting for some quotes/designs to come back to me for the heatsinks

 

[Matias]

Not sure here, think you need a pic. Are you proposing the amp modules are mounted vertically?

Generally, more mass and more contact area are better.

Like this but with heatsinks for each module.

 

[Rick Sykora]

No, I plan on mounting an actual heatsink to the back of every L bracket.
The brackets will be 230mmx130mm aluminum and the heatsinks will be 220mmx110mm (about 14-18mm height). Waiting for some quotes/designs to come back to me for the heatsinks

lol, am back to needing a drawing…

If you go vertical, you mount the heatsink to the amp’s aluminum plate. How you get the whole assembly to be vertical is another problem. That is more of a ease of manufacturing consideration.

 

[Rick Sykora]

Like this but with heatsinks for each module.

View attachment 180612

Yes, thanks. That is one approach. Think ATI’s is better, but takes more space.

 

[Buckeye Amps]

lol, am back to needing a drawing…

If you go vertical, you mount the heatsink to the amp’s aluminum plate. How you get the whole assembly to be vertical is another problem. That is more of a ease of manufacture consideration.

Don't have a drawing of the two together.

But essentially the backplate of the amp will he secured to an aluminum L bracket. On the opposite side of the L bracket will be an aluminum heatsink.

 

[DWPress]

I have Buckeye amp serial #2 and have never liked the case much as getting access inside is pretty fiddly. But I listen to my amp more than look at it.

Glad to see you are continuing to improve the physical appearance though and are keeping costs reasonable doing so. I plan to have an 1/4" anodized face made for my old inclosure and will add a power button to the front as well.

There might be enough of us now who desire such a thing (nicer front plate) for a group buy but I'd hate to organize it because, inevitably, there will be people wanting all sorts of changes, meters, other bling and also have different levels of fabrication skills or lack thereof.

 

[AdamG]

I have Buckeye amp serial #2 and have never liked the case much as getting access inside is pretty fiddly. But I listen to my amp more than look at it.

Glad to see you are continuing to improve the physical appearance though and are keeping costs reasonable doing so. I plan to have an 1/4" anodized face made for my old inclosure and will add a power button to the front as well.

There might be enough of us now who desire such a thing (nicer front plate) for a group buy but I'd hate to organize it because, inevitably, there will be people wanting all sorts of changes, meters, other bling and also have different levels of fabrication skills or lack thereof.

I hereby Officially Nominate you to take Lead Design and Purchase for this new fancy faceplate. I desire to have mine done in Blue and Gold with U.S. NAVY engraved vertically on the left side. Thank you for volunteering! Place your orders with @DWPress directly for the ASR Group Buy now…

 

[Buckeye Amps]

For the old cases with the screws on the front, new faceplates can be easily swapped. The key would be ordering a good amount at once.

If someone wanted to make a group buy order, it is something I can do relatively easy

 

[Madjalapeno]

I'm designing a case at the moment with NC500 modules. Will be something like this

The vertical risers are under $8 each, qty 3. Laser cut aluminum, 3.2mm thick.

 

[DWPress]

Thank you for volunteering!

 

[Rick Sykora]

Don't have a drawing of the two together.

But essentially the backplate of the amp will he secured to an aluminum L bracket. On the opposite side of the L bracket will be an aluminum heatsink.

Sounds like what @Matias described earlier. It is more mating surfaces than I would suggest, but given the weight of the modules, can see why you might go that way...

I would put a nice heatsink directly to the amp plate and then attach the heatsink to the bottom of the case (using bracket(s) that attached to the end fins of the heatsink). Should not require any custom parts except a pre-drilled heatsink to match the amp's screw holes (and the fin mount points).

EDIT: Unfortunately, Hypex does not seem to have designed these amps for vertical mounting.