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Buckeye Amps: New US based Hypex multichannel amplifier builder, line-up announcement!

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Buckeye Amps

Buckeye Amps

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It's (officially guaranteed) 50mA per output, not 200mA split anyway you like. Each trigger output is a separate circuit.
I just went back and checked the correspondence I had with MonolithGuy on AVS and its actually 150mA (not 200mA so apologies for that).
 

jhaider

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My HTP-1 is rated at 200mA max between the four trigger outs. I have it triggering two of my amps and at times a third when I test certain configurations and no issues.

Careful there. The HTP-1 manual is ambiguous and I was interested in triggering two ELK relays that draw a total of 60mA (for Crown DCIn amps in our basement) off of a single trigger (as I only have one trigger cable going down to the basement). So I asked. Here was the answer:

"The triggers are spec'ed for 50mA each. The drivers for the four trigger outputs are independent."

So it may work but the current draw is over spec. I ended up using an Emotiva ET-3.
 
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Careful there. The HTP-1 manual is ambiguous and I was interested in triggering two ELK relays that draw a total of 60mA (for Crown DCIn amps in our basement) off of a single trigger (as I only have one trigger cable going down to the basement). So I asked. Here was the answer:

"The triggers are spec'ed for 50mA each. The drivers for the four trigger outputs are independent."

So it may work but the current draw is over spec. I ended up using an Emotiva ET-3.
I actually contacted MonolithGuy (technical representative of the HTP-1 on the AVS Forums) and he confirmed the manual states that to keep it "simple" but one trigger can provide more than that (up to 150mA)
 

jhaider

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I actually contacted MonolithGuy (technical representative of the HTP-1 on the AVS Forums) and he confirmed the manual states that to keep it "simple" but one trigger can provide more than that (up to 150mA)

No offense, but my contact was from engineering at the firm that actually designed the relevant circuitry (Hobie put me in touch with him) so I'm going to go with that answer.

That said, both can be right - they can be spec'ed for 50mA but conservatively so. But based on that information it is clearly incorrect that the 200mA total output is available to any of the 4 triggers, which is how I read your post. They are independent drivers.
 
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My summation of the conversation is definitely not complete (was drawing from memory). For clarification here is exactly what I was told:

"Each trigger output is protected by a PTC. The minimum hold current for the PTC is 50mA, meaning the PTC is guaranteed not to trigger below 50mA. The PTC is guaranteed to trigger at or below 150mA. So, the short story is that 60mA should not be a problem and it certainly won't hurt to try it. The boost regulator can handle up to about 150mA output. We could think about a better way to spec the trigger outputs. It just seemed easiest to say that the maximum guaranteed output was 50mA."
 

Dj7675

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@Buckeye Amps ... the evolution of your products has been really interesting. The ability to pull recomendations/wants of customers into your product. Very cool. Do you (or anyone else) know what is necessary to have a clipping light?
 
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@Buckeye Amps ... the evolution of your products has been really interesting. The ability to pull recomendations/wants of customers into your product. Very cool. Do you (or anyone else) know what is necessary to have a clipping light?
It's rather simple, there are pinouts on the PCB for Clipping Indicator of each channel. Can use that to wire up to an LED.
 

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Dj7675

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But not having one, must certainly mean it can Never clip! Right? If you don’t see the light, maybe it never happens? :rolleyes:
What we don't know doesn't hurt us... but might our speakers!
 

Rick Sykora

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But not having one, must certainly mean it can Never clip! Right? If you don’t see the light, maybe it never happens? :rolleyes:

Lol. You may be more right than you thought...

I put clipping indicators on my NC502MP. Only time have seen them flash is when I power up or down. Might be more useful for lower power amps or if speaker does not seem loud enough though. ;)
 
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rdenney

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What’s the quiescent output of the 502 amp? Anybody measured it?

Rick “wondering if hiss can be heard when on” Denney
 

AdamG

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What’s the quiescent output of the 502 amp? Anybody measured it?

Rick “wondering if hiss can be heard when on” Denney
No measurements on my setup, but absolutely zero hiss when on and music is quiet or paused and power turned up to -18db. I have a 6 channel 502 Hypex. Very satisfied.
 
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Lol. You may be more right than you thought...

I put clipping indicators on my NC502MP. Only time have seen them flash is when I power up or down. Might be more useful for lower power amps or if speaker does not seem loud enough though. ;)
Yea...while clip indicators would be a "cool add on" your results are what I suspect most people would run into. Especially with the 502s. Chances are your ears will be the deciding factor of how loud you turn the volume up well before it clips.

If using them for subwoofer usage with drivers/setups meant to dig into the ULF region than I could see them being more active.
 

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Spring Cleaning 2021 Sale!!
I have a few of my original 19" cases left to use up. $80 off any 6/8ch order using the 19" case while supplies last!


UPDATED 4/5/2021
Current build ETA for new orders: June 21st
*Down payments are allowed due to the long wait times*

Official review by Amir
Official teardown by Amir


Hey all,

Long-time A/V enthusiast with an extensive history on the AVS forums and more recently following this site for all the technical and objective expertise. After months of looking for the best amplifier setup over the summer, I went a DIY route and built a 4-channel NC502MP and 6-channel NC252MP build using Modushop cases. One of the reasons for the DIY route was the lack of sellers in the US, and at the time of my needs the offerings of US sellers was limited.

I found putting my amplifiers together a fun "hobby"/relaxing during the nights after I got home from school (working on a PhD currently). So I got to thinking, could I offer a no frills, low cost option for US buyers without much overhead/need to charge more than necessary to turn a small profit while providing a quality product? After a couple of weeks of spitballing and working on a case prototype that is cost effective, I believe the answer is yes.

Builds are based off the Hypex Main Powered NCORE modules:
NC502MP
- 2x450w @ 2ohm
- 2x500w @ 4ohm
- 2x350w @ 8ohm


NC252MP
- 2x180w @ 2ohm
- 2x250w @ 4ohm
- 2x150w @ 8ohm


PRICING:
In the NEW Large 6/8ch Case (17"x13"x4") w/logo on front:

8 channel NC252MP, XLR inputs (Neutrik), Mogami wiring, 12v trigger, Power LED (Blue) = $1549 shipped
6 channel NC502MP
, XLR inputs (Neutrik), Mogami wiring, 12v trigger, Power LED (Blue) = $1649 shipped
6 channel NC252MP,
XLR inputs (Neutrik), Mogami wiring, 12v trigger, Power LED (Blue) = $1199 shipped

In the NEW Medium 4ch Case (12"x12"x4") w/logo on front:
4 channel NC502MP, XLR inputs (Neutrik), Mogami wiring, 12v trigger, Power LED (Blue) = $1049 shipped
4 channel NC252MP,
XLR inputs (Neutrik), Mogami wiring, 12v trigger, Power LED (Blue) = $779 shipped .....


Can you build some using Purify 1ET400A
 
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