Buckeye Amps: New US based Hypex multichannel amplifier builder, line-up announcement!

[thegeton]

For sure but with the amp being used for HT, its triggered by the 12v on my preamp to come out of standby. So it would be very inconvenient to manually turn it on each time. Probably worthy of it's own thread but, here is an example looks like was created in house. I've been looking around to see how to implement something similar. Would love to have something like that as part of this unit.

Pop Free Hypex Start

Question: Are you getting 502 power-on noises coming out of standby?

 

[thepiecesfit]

Question: Are you getting 502 power-on noises coming out of standby?

Well yes but a little more than I'm used to. So pre amp in my case AVR turns on, can hear its amps click on > hypex 502 turns on > click on hypex amps, then a thump in my center, then mains > AVR not completely turned on yet, seems like some other component clicks on, then I hear a pop in the tweeters. I'm used to the other stuff depending on the amp but the click in the tweeters is new to me.

 

[Buckeye Amps]

Unfortunately the potential for pop/noise on going in and out of standby seems to vary depending on setup. When I test them sitting about 1ft away, there is no sound at all. In In personal system with an HTP-1 and JBL speakers, I only get a faint pop in one speaker (usually center or right, never both together). I know Hypex addressed how bad it used to be and my understanding is this is the best it will get without a custom solution.

I would absolutely incorporate a solution if someone was willing to help me design/implement it easily. Something I can incorporate without having to build each time (not sure if a pre-made adapter or such exists).

 

[Doodski]

Well yes but a little more than I'm used to. So pre amp in my case AVR turns on, can hear its amps click on > hypex 502 turns on > click on hypex amps, then a thump in my center, then mains > AVR not completely turned on yet, seems like some other component clicks on, then I hear a pop in the tweeters. I'm used to the other stuff depending on the amp but the click in the tweeters is new to me.

Careful with the tweeter click and especially a peep noise. That can and does blow tweeters but you are using crossovers in the speakers so you should have some limits.

 

[Buckeye Amps]

Well yes but a little more than I'm used to. So pre amp in my case AVR turns on, can hear its amps click on > hypex 502 turns on > click on hypex amps, then a thump in my center, then mains > AVR not completely turned on yet, seems like some other component clicks on, then I hear a pop in the tweeters. I'm used to the other stuff depending on the amp but the click in the tweeters is new to me.

What happens if you turn the amps on after the AVR/every other component is already on? It sounds like the second thump is being generated by either the AVR or whatever other component once it is fully on.
(Disconnect the trigger and use the rear enable switch to turn the amp on once everything is on).

 

[thepiecesfit]

What happens if you turn the amps on after the AVR/every other component is already on? It sounds like the second thump is being generated by either the AVR or whatever other component once it is fully on.
(Disconnect the trigger and use the rear enable switch to turn the amp on once everything is on).

I get one thump in that case. So it would appear that the 12v trigger turns on the amps with some sort of delay and it's a second thump comes right after. Center is on the leftmost terminal when looking at the amp from behind. Which I imagine is first in sequence to turn on with the trigger.

 

[Buckeye Amps]

I get one thump in that case. So it would appear that the 12v trigger turns on the amps with some sort of delay and it's a second thump comes right after. Center is on the leftmost terminal when looking at the amp from behind. Which I imagine is first in sequence to turn on with the trigger.

Actually that makes me think the receiver is sending out a signal as it fully turns on. I would suspect you are hearing this issue as your old amps might have taken a little longer to turn on so whatever the receiver may be sending out was never heard.

The time from trigger on to amps on is very quick (less than a second). That initial thump you hear is the modules turning on and normally that's the end of it.

 

[thepiecesfit]

Actually that makes me think the receiver is sending out a signal as it fully turns on. I would suspect you are hearing this issue as your old amps might have taken a little longer to turn on so whatever the receiver may be sending out was never heard.

The time from trigger on to amps on is very quick (less than a second). That initial thump you hear is the modules turning on and normally that's the end of it.

I believe you are right. The amps come on before the receiver is done with it's power on cycle and another relay can be heard from the AVR before it is done. I'm not concerned about the thumps but the tweeter pops are a bit worrisome. It doesn't seem to be impacted by volume levels or even occurs when the AVR is muted. Don't suppose the delay can be increased in any easy way whether on the Hypex module or the 12v trigger?

 

[Buckeye Amps]

The only way would be switching out the trigger module inside the case.

This would be perfect

 

[kokishin]

The only way would be switching out the trigger module inside the case.

This would be perfect

@Srrndhound aka (the always helpful) Roger Dressler at avsforum.com recommends this for the end user:

https://www.avsforum.com/threads/th...-owners-thread.3112176/page-415#post-60358696

 

[Buckeye Amps]

@Srrndhound aka (the always helpful) Roger Dressler at avsforum.com recommends this for the end user:

https://www.avsforum.com/threads/th...-owners-thread.3112176/page-415#post-60358696

I posted the ELK as I used their products before and they are a dedicated "company". Not that the one Roger recommends isn't good or anything. Just always trying to provide products that have a manufacturer based website/company.

 

[Stuj]

I’m liking the new rackmount, It looks quite solid. Is this slightly narrower than your other 19 inch ?

 

[Buckeye Amps]

I’m liking the new rackmount, It looks quite solid. Is this slightly narrower than your other 19 inch ?

It's 19" faceplate but 17" body

 

[dutchboy]

So if a guy has a denon AVR-X6700h in a 7.3.4 set up ad is in the process of upgrading speaker and sub has and have F226 fronts and soon C426 Would he be best served getting the 4 channel getting the 4 channel 502 until and leaving one unused. Or getting a 6channel 2522 by-amping just for the extra power (not the other hard to determine stuff)?

I would like to buy this for personal, But, I would also like to spec it in what would be a popular set up for a resale, if it comes to that.
For me now how recently with things get tuning in nice it is not uncommon for my to look down and see upper eighties db for dialogue and 100-103 peaks and it is not painful at all. really adds to the TR and impact/
Currently my endgame speaker bed layer will be f226be mains, c426 center, f206 surrounds and Paradigm studio reference 60's v5 for rear surroumd , ceiling are RSL634e
Room is 15.5-20.5*8 I sit 12 ft back from main speakers generally my listening levels for movies are 85+ It is just so clean and free of distortions and no echo it sounds great. Tonights movie got into the low 100's during peak volcano activity and it just sounded great I would say I listen to "Loudish" music and movie...no where crazy yet, but I do like that feeling fo one you crossover the threshold of hereing to feeling it and being startled by int

Would a empty channel from Buckeye" amp be able to go toward a crowson for other tactile device, if I ever wanna head that direction?
Is there any downside to running half of a module or should I just try to switch them once a year or so?

I am not certain amp is needed, but 'the friend" I am asking for seems convinced it will make his new speaker even better by taking the load of the others....But, I always wonder if it will be noticeable by me.

These amps seem to reasonably priced and quality, I just can't think that if it shows no particular improvement in my system I should be able to get who to somebody who is a ideal canindate for something like the hypex.

Said all that to ask this simple question:
Which amp would make best for this situation and the easiest to unload if it does not>
6 channel NC252MP, XLR inputs (Neutrik), Mogami wiring, 12v trigger, Power LED (Blue)
4 channel NC502MP, XLR inputs (Neutrik), Mogami wiring, 12v trigger, Power LED (Blue)
or
just go for the Gehnt for the front tow? I really like the ideal of all three being on the same amp though.

Thanks guys,

 

[DonH56]

You probably already knew this, but if you leave your preamp off while powering up the 502 it will eliminate the amp power on noises.

That very much depends upon the preamp. Some preamps I like to power up and let stabilize before turning on the power amps; for others it is less important.

 

[thepiecesfit]

I've decided for now to keep the amp always on and not use the 12v trigger. The AVR still sends the tweeter click after about 10 seconds in the initial boot. Seems to be something that impacts Hypex not my former amp even while using the same 12v trigger cable. Everything else aside the amp sounds fantastic! The noise floor is extremely low when compared to my Outlaw 2200 LCR amps. There is definitely a notable improvement.

 

[Buckeye Amps]

So if a guy has a denon AVR-X6700h in a 7.3.4 set up ad is in the process of upgrading speaker and sub has and have F226 fronts and soon C426 Would he be best served getting the 4 channel getting the 4 channel 502 until and leaving one unused. Or getting a 6channel 2522 by-amping just for the extra power (not the other hard to determine stuff)?

I would like to buy this for personal, But, I would also like to spec it in what would be a popular set up for a resale, if it comes to that.
For me now how recently with things get tuning in nice it is not uncommon for my to look down and see upper eights for dialogue and 100-103 peaks and it is not painful at all. really adds to the TR and impact/
Currently my endgame speaker bed layer will be f226be mains, c426 center, f206 surrounds and Paradigm studio reference 60's v5 for rear surroumd , ceiling are RSL634e
Room is 15.5-20.5*8 I sit 12 ft back from main speakers generally my listening levels for movies are 85+ It is just so clean and free of distortions and no echo it sounds great. Tonights movie got into the low 100's during peak volcano activity and it just sounded great I would say I listen to "Loudish" music and movie...no where crazy yet, but I do like that feeling fo one you crossover the threshold of hereing to feeling it and being startled by int

Would a empty channel from Buckeye" amp be able to go toward a crowson for other tactile device, if I ever wanna head that direction?
Is there any downside to running half of a module or should I just try to switch them once a year or so?

I am not certain amp is needed, but 'the friend" I am asking for seems convinced it will make his new speaker even better by taking the load of the others....But, I always wonder if it will be noticeable by me.

These amps seem to reasonably priced and quality, I just can't think that if it shows no particular improvement in my system I should be able to get who to somebody who is a ideal canindate for something like the hypex.

Said all that to ask this simple question:
Which amp would make best for this situation and the easiest to unload if it does not>
6 channel NC252MP, XLR inputs (Neutrik), Mogami wiring, 12v trigger, Power LED (Blue)
4 channel NC502MP, XLR inputs (Neutrik), Mogami wiring, 12v trigger, Power LED (Blue)
or
just go for the Gehnt for the front tow? I really like the ideal of all three being on the same amp though.

Thanks guys,

The 4 channel NC502MP would be plenty of power for the setup, however the Denon AVR6700 only provides 1.5Vrms, meaning you'd not be getting full headroom/power with the 502's. However, reading up it seems the AVR6700 can provide up to 4Vrms if no internal amps are used.

If it was me, I would get the 6 channel NC252. You can externally bridge it at any time for your usage but still resell it as a 6 channel amp. And the NC252's would be better suited for the lower Vrms of the 6700

 

[dutchboy]

Thanks so much for your advice Buckeye Amps.
I suspected I was overlooking things, thank you for for pointing them out in a polite manner and offering reasonable suggestion.

I guess I have a little more learning to do.

 

[Buckeye Amps]

Thanks so much for your advice Buckeye Amps.
I suspected I was overlooking things, thank you for for pointing them out in a polite manner and offering reasonable suggestion.

I guess I have a little more learning to do.

No worries, learning is always ongoing in this hobby.

 

[thepiecesfit]

So if a guy has a denon AVR-X6700h in a 7.3.4 set up ad is in the process of upgrading speaker and sub has and have F226 fronts and soon C426 Would he be best served getting the 4 channel getting the 4 channel 502 until and leaving one unused. Or getting a 6channel 2522 by-amping just for the extra power (not the other hard to determine stuff)?

I would like to buy this for personal, But, I would also like to spec it in what would be a popular set up for a resale, if it comes to that.
For me now how recently with things get tuning in nice it is not uncommon for my to look down and see upper eights for dialogue and 100-103 peaks and it is not painful at all. really adds to the TR and impact/
Currently my endgame speaker bed layer will be f226be mains, c426 center, f206 surrounds and Paradigm studio reference 60's v5 for rear surroumd , ceiling are RSL634e
Room is 15.5-20.5*8 I sit 12 ft back from main speakers generally my listening levels for movies are 85+ It is just so clean and free of distortions and no echo it sounds great. Tonights movie got into the low 100's during peak volcano activity and it just sounded great I would say I listen to "Loudish" music and movie...no where crazy yet, but I do like that feeling fo one you crossover the threshold of hereing to feeling it and being startled by int

Would a empty channel from Buckeye" amp be able to go toward a crowson for other tactile device, if I ever wanna head that direction?
Is there any downside to running half of a module or should I just try to switch them once a year or so?

I am not certain amp is needed, but 'the friend" I am asking for seems convinced it will make his new speaker even better by taking the load of the others....But, I always wonder if it will be noticeable by me.

These amps seem to reasonably priced and quality, I just can't think that if it shows no particular improvement in my system I should be able to get who to somebody who is a ideal canindate for something like the hypex.

Said all that to ask this simple question:
Which amp would make best for this situation and the easiest to unload if it does not>
6 channel NC252MP, XLR inputs (Neutrik), Mogami wiring, 12v trigger, Power LED (Blue)
4 channel NC502MP, XLR inputs (Neutrik), Mogami wiring, 12v trigger, Power LED (Blue)
or
just go for the Gehnt for the front tow? I really like the ideal of all three being on the same amp though.

Thanks guys,

For what it's worth I'm using the 4 channel NC502MP with my Denon X4400H and I can play -10dB from reference, calibrated with an SPL meter and it sounds clean. I only needed to add +1.5dB from my old amp for the LCR trims likely to account the amp gain 27db vs 25.6. I am 12 feet away from my speakers rated at 88dB 1/watt meter at 8ohms. My ears can't tolerate much louder I'm usually at -15dB. This is without LR amp disconnect. YMMV