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Thats great will you be offering a 2 channel version by chance. I would like to spank some friends hoity toity buttocks who only think Theta and PS Audio make quality class D amps.Plus, I really think its great your from Ohio.
Thanks
Tom
All amps are available for purchase (the website is just going to be a new way to spread the word). 2 channel amps are available in both the NC502 and NC252 configuration
Thats great will you be offering a 2 channel version by chance. I would like to spank some friends hoity toity buttocks who only think Theta and PS Audio make quality class D amps.Plus, I really think its great your from Ohio.
Thanks
Tom
When calculating input sensitivity, how is Vrms calculated when bridging a module? Say you bridge an NC252 for 8ohm speakers. A non-bridged NC252 for an 8ohm load is about 1.8Vrms. If bridging, would the new calculation be square root of 500w*8ohm or 500w*4ohm, or 250w*4ohm?
What would the max output of a bridged NC502 into a 16 ohm load be? In the manual it states 1000w @ 4ohm BTL and 1200w @ 8ohm BTL. Under normal circumstances doubling impedance usually halves the power available from an amp but in this case going from 4ohm to 8 ohms actually gives 200 extra watts.
When calculating input sensitivity, how is Vrms calculated when bridging a module? Say you bridge an NC252 for 8ohm speakers. A non-bridged NC252 for an 8ohm load is about 1.8Vrms. If bridging, would the new calculation be square root of 500w*8ohm or 500w*4ohm, or 250w*4ohm?
It gets tricky because input is expressed in volts and output in watts (power) so you have to first calculate the output voltage then generate the sensitivity.
Power (W) = V^2 / R = I^2 * R = V * I where R is the nominal impedance in ohms
Thus Vout = sqrt(Pout * R)
Most audio uses RMS so V and I are RMS values while power is watts average (no such thing as Wrms despite marketing spec sheets).
Can you build an 8 channel amp that includes one NC502 and three NC252's in a single case? I'm interested in 250w for my LCR and 180w for surrounds and heights. I'm setting up a 15 channel HT and two amps with these specs would work very nicely. Looking at your posted builds, 16 channels of the requested wattage is probably going to require 3 cases. But I thought I would ask and find out what options you can provide to maximize space. Enjoyed reading this thread!!!
It gets tricky because input is expressed in volts and output in watts (power) so you have to first calculate the output voltage then generate the sensitivity.
Power (W) = V^2 / R = I^2 * R = V * I where R is the nominal impedance in ohms
Thus Vout = sqrt(Pout * R)
Most audio uses RMS so V and I are RMS values while power is watts average (no such thing as Wrms despite marketing spec sheets).
Thanks! I have that part of the equation down. My confusion is when bridging. For a normal 252, Hypex uses the ohms and power of one of the channels to calculate the input sensitivity (so their datasheet example is sqrt(150*8)/10^(25.6/20) = 1.82Vrms
But when bridging, each channel of the amp now see's half impedance. So if I bridge a 252 and use it to power a single 8ohm speaker, technically each amp on the module is seeing 4ohms but combined the overall impedance is 8ohm @ 500w. Do I use 500*8 for the sqrt() now? Or 500*4? Or 250*4 (since each module is outputting max power of 250w)?
Can you build an 8 channel amp that includes one NC502 and three NC252's in a single case? I'm interested in 250w for my LCR and 180w for surrounds and heights. I'm setting up a 15 channel HT and two amps with these specs would work very nicely. Looking at your posted builds, 16 channels of the requested wattage is probably going to require 3 cases. But I thought I would ask and find out what options you can provide to maximize space. Enjoyed reading this thread!!!
Actually I can fit that configuration in my current large sized case. However, I am switching over to slightly smaller sized cases/redesigned cases that would not be able to fit such a configuration. I still have unclaimed large cases that would fit your needs for what you requested though. Feel free to PM or email me.
I have had quite a few 4 and 6 channel 502 builds with no reported issues of overheating. For my own 4 channel I use an AC Infinity Aircom that sits on top and runs on the lowest (nearly inaudible) fan setting and temps never go above 88F
I have a 6 module 502 amp from Buckeye Amps. Been in daily use 10+ hours a day for past 3+ weeks driving very power hungry Electrostatic panel speakers. I am using an Aircom unit on top. The reported temps have been relatively level no matter how hard I drive them. Very rarely have unit temps gone much more than +4 to +10 degrees Fahrenheit above ambient room temperature. For instance today my house is sitting at 77 degrees F. The Buckeye Amp has been on and running for 3 hours with pretty dynamic music and the Aircom is reporting 81 degree F. So in this case +4 degrees F above room temperature.
Hey @Buckeye Amps, I'm wondering why there are two power toggles on the backs of the units. I've read through all the messages on this thread, but don't seem to have found (or I missed) the answer.
Thanks! This is exciting work you're doing, I'm super tempted.
Hey @Buckeye Amps, I'm wondering why there are two power toggles on the backs of the units. I've read through all the messages on this thread, but don't seem to have found (or I missed) the answer.
Thanks! This is exciting work you're doing, I'm super tempted.
It's a trigger bypass switch. There is an insert included in the box when you receive the unit. If using a 12v trigger set it to off, if not using a 12v trigger set it to always on.
I've come to a love/hate relationship of the power on thumps and pops from amps. I noticed that some manufacturers have implemented a micro controller to mute the amps as the power on process finalizes and slows down the various amps from powering on. Is that something that may be added as a future addon? Noticed the Hypex 502 does unfortunately click and thump a bit on power on and off.
I've come to a love/hate relationship of the power on thumps and pops from amps. I noticed that some manufacturers have implemented a micro controller to mute the amps as the power on process finalizes and slows down the various amps from powering on. Is that something that may be added as a future addon? Noticed the Hypex 502 does unfortunately click and thump a bit on power on and off.
For sure but with the amp being used for HT, its triggered by the 12v on my preamp to come out of standby. So it would be very inconvenient to manually turn it on each time. Probably worthy of it's own thread but, here is an example looks like was created in house. I've been looking around to see how to implement something similar. Would love to have something like that as part of this unit.
I've come to a love/hate relationship of the power on thumps and pops from amps. I noticed that some manufacturers have implemented a micro controller to mute the amps as the power on process finalizes and slows down the various amps from powering on. Is that something that may be added as a future addon? Noticed the Hypex 502 does unfortunately click and thump a bit on power on and off.
I always dug the power on of my big tri-amp'd home system. The thump of power, the dimming of lights, the pulsing in-and-out of the woofers as the power supplies charged.
