At the moment waiting on the input boards to be manufactured (likely 4wks or so) and then some final testing. So not too far off.Any updates on 9040 monoblock release date?
Hello.Optimizing the 1ET9040BA means keeping the impedance to the speakers as low as possible to maintain its very low output impedance, which means very short speaker cables. My best-use case of a monoblock is one behind each speaker with a (potentially long) line-level interconnect (preferably balanced XLR) to each amp, and very short cable from amp to speaker. A long XLR cable, say <50~100m, will have insignificant effect on the sound (unlike a speaker cable of similar length).
Bi-amping is of benefit when you use an active crossover and the amps feed the drivers directly. Otherwise it is a waste of effort and money for the vast majority of consumers IME/IMO. With very few exceptions, all my best experiences with bi-amping have been in a professional sound reinforcement application. Overview:
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Bi-amping 101
This article provides a quick look at how bi-amplification works. The conventional scheme is to split the signal into two frequency bands before the power amplifiers that drive the speakers. The bass (LF) amp sees only LF signals and drives only the LF driver (woofer). The treble (HF) amp sees...www.audiosciencereview.com
The price of the speakers is indirectly related to their power needs at best. What matters is their sensitivity, placement, and distance to the listener. You can use an online calculator as a rough guide (note 80 dB is very loud to me, so 100 dB peaks would be my goal): http://www.hometheaterengineering.com/splcalculator.html
Dylan @Buckeye Amps is one of the few dealers willing to assess what you need vs. what you want (and vs. what other marketing will tell you).
HTH - Don
Because many pro speaker systems are designed to be bi-amped using active crossovers and an appropriate set of amplifiers; they have no internal passive crossover (or minimal, e.g. just a blocking capacitor). Most consumer speakers with "bi-amp" terminals retain the internal passive crossovers, obviating a big advantage of going active, and AVRs send a full-range signal through both channels so do not include a proper crossover before the amplifier channels.Hello.
Can you explain this a little more as to why you say this " best experience bi-amping have been in a professional sound reinforcement application"
Is it because you are using a speaker processor in the signal chain or something similar?
Thanks
I could put my front channel amp on a amp stand under my screen an use long xlr interconnects to them and do 5-7ft speaker cables or put them next to the speakers and do 3ft speakers but, i would not be able to put my aricom cooler above the amps if they were next to the speakers. Either way I am skeptical i would see an audible improvement over 26ft 10 gauge speaker wire. There shouldn't really be any high frequency roll off at that distance of 10 gauge wire.Optimizing the 1ET9040BA means keeping the impedance to the speakers as low as possible to maintain its very low output impedance, which means very short speaker cables. My best-use case of a monoblock is one behind each speaker with a (potentially long) line-level interconnect (preferably balanced XLR) to each amp, and very short cable from amp to speaker. A long XLR cable, say <50~100m, will have insignificant effect on the sound (unlike a speaker cable of similar length).
Bi-amping is of benefit when you use an active crossover and the amps feed the drivers directly. Otherwise it is a waste of effort and money for the vast majority of consumers IME/IMO. With very few exceptions, all my best experiences with bi-amping have been in a professional sound reinforcement application. Overview:
![]()
Bi-amping 101
This article provides a quick look at how bi-amplification works. The conventional scheme is to split the signal into two frequency bands before the power amplifiers that drive the speakers. The bass (LF) amp sees only LF signals and drives only the LF driver (woofer). The treble (HF) amp sees...www.audiosciencereview.com
The price of the speakers is indirectly related to their power needs at best. What matters is their sensitivity, placement, and distance to the listener. You can use an online calculator as a rough guide (note 80 dB is very loud to me, so 100 dB peaks would be my goal): http://www.hometheaterengineering.com/splcalculator.html
Dylan @Buckeye Amps is one of the few dealers willing to assess what you need vs. what you want (and vs. what other marketing will tell you).
HTH - Don
Nothing to do with bandwidth, just maintaining very low driving-point impedance (damping factor) to the speakers, to keep the crossover (input) termination as low as possible. I wouldn't think thermal coolers would be needed but do not own those amps. My old class AB amps (also Emotiva but lower-power), in a console with some space above but no fans, are doing OK and have been for about 10 years or so.I could put my front channel amp on a amp stand under my screen an use long xlr interconnects to them and do 5-7ft speaker cables or put them next to the speakers and do 3ft speakers but, i would not be able to put my aricom cooler above the amps if they were next to the speakers. Either way I am skeptical i would see an audible improvement over 26ft 10 gauge speaker wire. There shouldn't really be any high frequency roll off at that distance of 10 gauge wire.
No what I do have does not run hot, it barely get warm after a movie or two, my monolith 7x gets warmer running my surround heights, not that it gets too warm either. I am not sure how warm a purify amp would get in comparison. As a computer guy that knows that what makes circuit boards susceptible to failure over time is the repeated heating and cooling of the circuits. A pc left running rather than being shut down every time its is not being used should last longer, excluding the cost of running it of course. I always aired(no pun intened) on the side of caution that cooling the amp even though it may not be nessicary might additionally help pronlg its life. Do you think it would make much difference between 3ft and 6ft that I should abandon having on an amp stand with a power conditioner and the aircom cooler?Nothing to do with bandwidth, just maintaining very low driving-point impedance (damping factor) to the speakers, to keep the crossover (input) termination as low as possible. I wouldn't think thermal coolers would be needed but do not own those amps. My old class AB amps (also Emotiva but lower-power), in a console with some space above but no fans, are doing OK and have been for about 10 years or so.
I suspect in a blind test you would find swapping amps to be inaudible, let alone changing cables, just telling you what I would do to optimize connections to high-power amplifiers.
I think it doesn't matter what I think.No what I do have does not run hot, it barely get warm after a movie or two, my monolith 7x gets warmer running my surround heights, not that it gets too warm either. I am not sure how warm a purify amp would get in comparison. As a computer guy that knows that what makes circuit boards susceptible to failure over time is the repeated heating and cooling of the circuits. A pc left running rather than being shut down every time its is not being used should last longer, excluding the cost of running it of course. I always aired(no pun intened) on the side of caution that cooling the amp even though it may not be nessicary might additionally help pronlg its life. Do you think it would make much difference between 3ft and 6ft that I should abandon having on an amp stand with a power conditioner and the aircom cooler?
I am pretty sure no-one could hear a difference in a proper controlled test.When driving high-sensitivity, easy-to-drive speakers, will EIGENTAKT 1ET9040BA amps sound any better than 1ET400A amps?
At 100+dB/2.83V/1m Blumenhofers we couldn't tell 1ET400A from AR 160M monos.When driving high-sensitivity, easy-to-drive speakers, will EIGENTAKT 1ET9040BA amps sound any better than 1ET400A amps?
Not from Amir but we will have measurements from our own AP to provide before taking orders, yes.Will we see measurements posted before preorders open up? I'm expecting to put in an order.
Awesome, can you confirm what the gain options willl be? Looking for a 19 or so as I need more granularity on my preampETA for taking orders will likely be beginning of July.
I have plenty of the 9040BA modules heading to me soon (ordered and in stock from Purifi).
The Hypex SMPS1200A180 is on back order until July.
And the Micro Audio SMPS1300w SMPS optional upgrade is currently in manufacturing, similar ETA of July as Hypex.
Everything else is ready to go (input board is measuring as expected, which is to say it is not imparting a negative effect on the performance expected).
Will have a comparison of both before official listing. But I know there are those who want to pre order regardless as well.It will be interesting to see which PS measures best with the 1ET9040BA, if one offers superior energy efficiency while idle (low listening levels) and if there is a difference in heat generation. Will Buckeye offer these comparisons prior to sale? Thank you!