OP
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While the name of the Micro Audio suggests 1300w max, it is actually capable of higher peak wattage.
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Buckeye Amps: 2nd Generation Purifi EIGENTAKT 1ET9040BA Amplifier
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OP
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We've been measuring them but I may be switching to the SMPS1200A180. I just want to do some more testing before making final decision since the A180 can theoretically exceed the max voltage of the 9040. Which wouldn't be destructive but if it happens would cause shutdown and obviously don't want that to be a scenario that occurs even if rare.
To be continued
valerianf
Addicted to Fun and Learning
Looking at the 2 datasheets the OPA1612 (1.1 nV/√Hz) has a far better noise floor than the OPA1656 (4.3 nV/√Hz).
May be it is not something that we can hear but the difference is significant.
May be it is not something that we can hear but the difference is significant.
OP
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Yea. This has been discussed elsewhere by others (not saying that in a dismissive tone).
But the impression is that the 1656 is the preferred OP Amp to use with the 9040 per the designer himself, Bruno.
At the very end of the day neither will have any audible impact over the other.
OP
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Also, we will be acquiring an Audio Precision for our business so rest assured there will never be any doubt in measurements again.
555?
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AP555X
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Confirmed we will be using the Hypex SMPS1200A180 for our standard build.
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Will follow up soon. Have to get the A180 stock in hand first
EdW
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Is there merit in slightly increased gain relative to a 1ET400 Amplifier so that the new amplifier can be driven to its full power direct from a 4V XLR DAC output?
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I actually would look for some lower gain values as I'd like some more volume granularity from my pre-amp (it currently has a choice of volume 6 a little too quiet or 7 a little too loud). So with a lower gain I could have more options between those two. May I ask what the gain options will be? (and you have the wonderful option to choose externally by some selector right?)
Any future plans after the mono blocks to offer 1ET9040BA or 1ET7040SA in a 2 channel amp? Thinking of bi-amping Arendal 1723 Towers in my home theater. I considered the PURIFI 1ET400A 2 channel amp but was thinking they would benefit from the more power head room of the 1ET9040BA or 1ET7040SA. I also think the the extra capacitor board offered on these amps my benefit the amp powering the low end on the speakers as have my preamp to send the low end frequencies to both my front and subwoofers.
And the input impedance is now?
EdW
Senior Member
The 1ET7040 offers marginally more power than the 1ET400 and then only when powered with a */-70V SMPS. It can however drive into low impedance speaker loads whereas the 1ET400 is best suited to speaker loads from 3 Ohms upwards if you want voltage clip to be the limit rather than current limit.
So I found this review of the Arendel 1723 tower on Audioholics
Arendal Sound 1723 Tower S THX Speaker Review
Stunned by Arendal Sound’s 1723 THX monitor performance, we wanted to see if the more manageable sized 1723 S series tower could deliver similarly great sound and value. Read our review.
www.audioholics.com
seems like the Arendel is an easy 4 Ohm load so unless you want the increased 2dB or so of power of the 1ET9040 then a 1ET400 solution is very suitable.
You will receive no advantage bi-amping. None whatsoever. Just buy decent speaker cables. If the run is short (say less than 4m) then 12AWG cable is good otherwise go to the thicker 10AWG. This is a very conservative recommendation for a relatively high impedance speaker like the Arendel. Obviously don’t buy from boutique suppliers of cable but look at Blue Jeans Cable etc.
EDIT: also don’t waste money bi-wiring - no advantage either. Just an extra trip hazard!
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So you don't think I would benefit from bi-amping vs a single mono-block amp per speaker? I currently have them to 2 Emotiva mono block amps rated 600rms 4ohms, i though i though about moving the mono blocks to another system and using the 1ET9040BA to power them. I currently using bluejeans cable 10AWG as the run is 26ft to the speakers.
EdW
Senior Member
if you look through the ASR website you will see several contributors saying that bi-amping confers no benefit. But look at what @Buckeye Amps says on the subject
Bi-amp front speakers with receiver (internal) and external integrated amp?
I have the following amps: - Yamaha RX-A4A (receiver) - Yamaha A-S1100 (integrated) Currently, the fronts (KEF R11’s) are powered solely by the integrated. It’s connected to the pre-out from the receiver. The receiver only powers the surrounds and center (KEF R3’s and R2C). Can I bi-amp the...
www.audiosciencereview.com
. . great honest advice
If you had very expensive loudspeakers (think Revel Salon 2 etc. here) then considering a 1ET9040 solution would be justified.
Perhaps consider also whether a stereo 1ET400 solution would work well. It could save money and the crosstalk from the stereo power amp will be better than most AV systems
Optimizing the 1ET9040BA means keeping the impedance to the speakers as low as possible to maintain its very low output impedance, which means very short speaker cables. My best-use case of a monoblock is one behind each speaker with a (potentially long) line-level interconnect (preferably balanced XLR) to each amp, and very short cable from amp to speaker. A long XLR cable, say <50~100m, will have insignificant effect on the sound (unlike a speaker cable of similar length).
Bi-amping is of benefit when you use an active crossover and the amps feed the drivers directly. Otherwise it is a waste of effort and money for the vast majority of consumers IME/IMO. With very few exceptions, all my best experiences with bi-amping have been in a professional sound reinforcement application. Overview:
Bi-amping 101
This article provides a quick look at how bi-amplification works. The conventional scheme is to split the signal into two frequency bands before the power amplifiers that drive the speakers. The bass (LF) amp sees only LF signals and drives only the LF driver (woofer). The treble (HF) amp sees...
www.audiosciencereview.com
The price of the speakers is indirectly related to their power needs at best. What matters is their sensitivity, placement, and distance to the listener. You can use an online calculator as a rough guide (note 80 dB is very loud to me, so 100 dB peaks would be my goal): http://www.hometheaterengineering.com/splcalculator.html
Dylan @Buckeye Amps is one of the few dealers willing to assess what you need vs. what you want (and vs. what other marketing will tell you).
HTH - Don
Does any know if they are any issues with using the Purifi amps in conjunction with a Marantz preamp. I have read some people have had issues with gain with marantz and certain amplifiers and not being able to get the full range of power out of the amp using the volume control on their reciever/preamp. I am currently using a Marantz 8805a and the other amps on the system have 29db Gain. Do you think i would run into any issues with the pre-amp using the Purifi amps or in conjunction with my other amps? I believe quoting marantz " When using the Pre-Out section from your AV model, the RCA pre-outs can output up to 1.2V and the XLRs can output up to 2.4V" I am using XLR wich would be 2.4v would i be able to get max or close to it with it in high gain mode? Marantz pre-out voltage
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Close to it based on testing of one of the prototypes. Sure Dylan will publish exact voltage specs once testing completes.
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