Thanks for the kind words.
The cost was high, 2-3x an equivalent Adcom for example.
My memory was fuzzy on the list prices back in ~1995, I recall:
BP-25: ~$2000 (the phono and DAC modules added large cost, mine is the basic version)
3B-ST: ~$1600
10B-Sub: ~$1500
Bryston was seldom sold at any discount.
I got mine when I worked at a store that sold them, so did get a discount. The crossover was used, still not cheap.
You can make an argument that $50 per year per piece isn't too bad. It's a weak argument, but sounds good in hindsight.![]()
There are those of us that neither stream (either don't want to and/or live in places where you have to drive 30 or more minutes to get a decent cell phone signal [I'm in both catagories]).Bryston, at this point, has nothing that made their products attractive in the past.
You can get a much better-performing Class D amplifier from Buckeye and others.
Their DAC/Streamer is stupidly priced, dual AKM AK4490, better or equivalent DACs are dime a dozen, and you can get streamers for nothing.
Bryston will either reinvent itself ot go out of business.
Well designed Class D is not landfill, but superior to AB in every way. It's 2025, not 1996.There are those of us that neither stream (either don't want to and/or live in places where you have to drive 30 or more minutes to get a decent cell phone signal [I'm in both catagories]).
And are not enamored by Class D, and believe in helping the environment a bit by having repairable gear that doesn't end up in the land fill.( I'm in that category, too).
I tend to deal with places that have a similar philosophy, such as:
Audio Proz from Watertown, MA (USA):
Audio Proz has been in the Hi-Fi and Pro Audio business for over 50 years.
The owner, Vince Naeve has worked for companies such as Apt, H.H. Scott, and KLH.
And says:
We assist our customers by helping them choose the correct equipment for their application, with special attention to the
serviceability, longevity and manufacturer support.
We try to be competitive on prices for new products and all of our used items are fully serviced, calibrated and Warranteed.
We do not stock cheap throw away electronics that are actually more expensive to own and needlessly pollute the environment.
A man of my philosophical ideas.
It is rare for me to buy something that will not be able to be repaired in the future. And will end up in the landfill in my lifetime.
EJ3
While I may agree with you on that point, what if we already have decent, over engineered reputable class AB amps? Is it worth upgrading? I'm tempted by a modern class D amp but how will it stack up against a big Bryston or Threshold, both of which I already own? It should be better but can I hear the difference?Well designed Class D is not landfill, but superior to AB in every way. It's 2025, not 1996.
I’m in the same boat as you. I have McIntosh MC7270 x 2 and have been looking at various Class D options. I have a Yamaha MXD1 and use that on my Salon2 and very happy with it. Upgradeitis has me looking , not need.While I may agree with you on that point, what if we already have decent, over engineered reputable class AB amps? Is it worth upgrading? I'm tempted by a modern class D amp but how will it stack up against a big Bryston or Threshold, both of which I already own? It should be better but can I hear the difference?
Sure it is (but I seriously doubt that you will be able to hear the difference in my 1987 NAD 2200 and your whatever Class D, not to mention a tad bit of power):Well designed Class D is not landfill, but superior to AB in every way. It's 2025, not 1996.
Define "well designed". The very nature of modern economics / electronics dictates repair by replacement. Good luck finding a manufacturer who will do component level repair down to individual smd. The entire board will almost certainly replaced, swapped in and out in minutes. Depending on the complexity of the device there may only be one board...Where do you think that defective pcb is going to end up?Well designed Class D is not landfill, but superior to AB in every way. It's 2025, not 1996.
Can you please tell which caps you replaced? The electrolytics I can imagine but which other components did you replace? About the elco's axial 100 uF capacitors are harder to get these days (especially bipolar). Which did you use? I attached the schematic (maybe you can tell which components you replaced)?I could never afford Bryston's ... until I learned how to fix broken ones, or refurbish their electronics.
I've bought three 2B amps, two 2B-LP, and a BP-25 pre ....from e bay.... some working, some not, some didn't say.
I replaced all electrolytic caps, tired-looking resistors, tantalum caps, and the main output transistors only if needed. There are modern replacements for the older obsolete output transistors.
There is no DC offset adjustment. Their DC offset spec relies on the good "matching" of the transistors done at the factory. Bias is not difficult to adjust with a little patience.
There are threads on DIYAudio and elsewhere with detailed instructions.
I use both the 2B-LP's at my art studio and office, and the BP-25 lives in my main system at home.
I replaced the axial bi-polars with radials. I neatly spread (bent) their leads to accommodate the holes and left them standing. For smaller caps this is acceptable for me........ the elco's axial 100 uF capacitors are harder to get these days (especially bipolar). Which did you use?
The real design challenge for a preamp is to tolerate a wide variety of incoming and outgoing impedance, quiet circuitry routing, ample power supply, faithful switching and level pots, plus whatever extra conveniences you are willing to pay for."According to Douglas Self, "there is probably no music on the planet that has not passed through a hundred or more 5532s on its way to the consumer" (wikipedia and LINK)
In the first post of this thread an original and unmodified BP-25 preamp is tested. It shows stellar performance, no evidence of deteriorating capacitors. Also no aged relays, which quite frankly are often more responsible for deterioration than capacitors, unless the capacitors were under stress or flat out poor quality.Can you please tell which caps you replaced? The electrolytics I can imagine but which other components did you replace? About the elco's axial 100 uF capacitors are harder to get these days (especially bipolar). Which did you use? I attached the schematic (maybe you can tell which components you replaced)?
I agree the caps very often do not need replacing unless there is a problem. I do it on 30+ year old gear where I do not know it's history. Maybe it has been powered for 20 years continuously ??In the first post of this thread an original and unmodified BP-25 preamp is tested. It shows stellar performance, no evidence of deteriorating capacitors.