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Bryston 7BST 600 Watt Monoblock Review

MAB

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I recently reviewed a stack of classic Bryston gear, including a 3BST amplifier. I was pleasantly surprised at the good results. I have the big brothers of that 3BST amp, the 7BST monoblocks. I also recently built a resistive load with enough capacity to test such a powerful amp. Here is a test of this classic amp.
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I got the amps used years ago. They have powered a range of speakers. They have been reliable. Mine were manufactured in 1999 according to the date code. I have never opened them. I have no idea what the previous owner did with them, except they appeared well-cared for when I bought them 12 years ago.

It has balanced inputs using TRS or XLR, and unbalanced RCA. It also has 'parallel' and 'series' modes. The amp is actually two modules, which can be operated bridged, or in parallel. It can drive very difficult loads in the parallel mode.
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5 Watt 1 kHz Performance Dashboard
Following usual ASR practices, using the amps' balanced inputs with a QA403.
4 Ohm Parallel Mode
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96dB SINAD lands it at the bottom of the excellent category. This is a pretty good result despite the mains noise. I wonder if that is age-related.

4 Ohm Series Mode
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SINAD degrades to ~90dB in series mode. Much of it is increased noise. Which makes sense since the amp is bridged in this mode.

8 Ohm Parallel
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8 Ohm Series
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Again, excellent performance with degradation in series mode compared to parallel. We will later see how much power is available in each configuration.

Lastly,
2 Ohm Parallel
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2 Ohm Series
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Excellent performance at this moderate power level into 2 Ohms.

Power Output
Here is the THD+N vs. Power for 8, 4, and 2 Ohm loads. Parallel and series modes were measured except for 2 Ohm load which I only measured in parallel. I also didn't quite make it to 1% distortion on each run, call me a chicken!;)
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In any case the amp exceeds the following power figures at 1% distortion:
2Ω Parallel: 775 Watts
4Ω Parallel: 475 Watts
8Ω Parallel: 250 Watts
4Ω Series: 850 Watts
8Ω Series: 610 Watts

I didn't want to redo the runs to 1%, suffice to say they have a ton of power.

The amp has clipping meters incorporated into the faceplate's LED:
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Onset is about 2% THD, the LED start turning amber. By 3% distortion the meters are lit up solid red. I tested a second amp and it has the same clipping threshold for the LED. They provide very useful feedback. They look tasteful, yet appropriately urgent when they turn red.

Here is the THD alone across power for the various loads and mode:
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The amp did get warm doing these high power sweeps, but didn't complain, protect, or blow a fuse.

Distortion and Nose across frequency
Looking at THD+N at 4Ω in serial mode across a range of power from 130mW to 200W, the amp shows little dependence of distortion and noise across frequency.
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4 Ohms in parallel mode, even better performance.
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Here is THD alone into 4 Ohms in parallel mode, the amp is well controlled across frequency:
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IMD / Multitone distortion
Here is the intermodulation distortion at 5 Watts, 19 + 20kHz
First into 4 Ohms in parallel mode:
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And into 4 Ohms in series mode:
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Both are great results. I can see some noise at 35kHz that goes away in series mode. Looking at Bryston's description from the owner's manual:
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Is this out of band noise at 35kHz getting nulled in bridge mode? Or did something get turned off in my house? Not sure, I can't hear it, but interesting.

Here is multitone into 8 Ohms, parallel mode:
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19 bits of distortion margin, 16 bits including the noise.

And serial mode into 8 Ohms:
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18 bits of of distortion margin, and 14 bits of noise margin. The amp is noise limited, still excellent performance.

Frequency Response
Here is the frequency response into the three loads, in parallel and series modes:
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-3dB down at 60kHz or higher depending on load and mode. The parallel mode has the most extended response at a given load resistance, which isn't surprising.

Matching
Here is the performance of the second 7BST compared to the one I just tested.
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Except for some slightly questionable noise the second amp (right channel, red trace) is matched to the first, after 35 years of use.

I'm glad I measured these, and didn't blow anything up.:p I now have a better understanding of the parallel and series mode. I also wondered if the amp was as clean as I thought it was into low impedance loads, which it is. I've driven Infinity Kappa speakers years ago, and even more difficult speakers with the previous version of the 7B, and it worked well never overheating or shutting down, sounding great. This confirms my impressions of it's performance.

I hope this is interesting, and encourage questions and suggestions.
 
Here is the back-panel detail from the owner's manual:
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And the warranty:

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Bryston's spec:
500W into 8 ohms
800W into 4 ohms
It exceeds those values.

There are pro versions of the ST series amps that have variable input level controls.
They are also available with trigger control.

Stereophile has a good writeup with on the 7B series including the 1996 review of the 7BST.
 
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Great review!
About noise, I would try the usual, first the easy ones as rotating the trafos a little, do some cleaning and tidying internal cables, securing ground, etc.
And then maybe inspect caps, diodes, etc.

Other than that, great results, a true power amp.

Edit:
I would also suspect these purple cables beside the trafos or the ones passing over them:


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Nice review, thank you.

I *know* that a neat little class D (3e perhaps) is all I need, but I *want * these!

What an annoying hobby :)
 
About noise, I would try the usual, first the easy ones as rotating the trafos a little, do some cleaning and tidying internal cables, securing ground, etc.
The wiring is even worse than mine ;).
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This is something I have never understood with these highly respectable manufacturers. However, in my honest opinion and my experience the mains residuals and their multiples are mostly a result of the PCB design, namely signal and power ground return tracks on the PCB.
 
Great review and many thanks.

I own 2 bit smaller 4B SSTs 2010 vintage and great to know that 1999 vintage is still running strong. Would love to get 10+ years more out of them.
 
The wiring is even worse than mine ;).
View attachment 480249

This is something I have never understood with these highly respectable manufacturers. However, in my honest opinion and my experience the mains residuals and their multiples are mostly a result of the PCB design, namely signal and power ground return tracks on the PCB.
Mains noise can be strange, yes.
The strangest I have measured was at a pre that noise (mains and multiples, at very low level of course) were going up and down depending the pot position!
The best was at about 2 o' clock (a little before unity gain) where they were completely disappear.
 
The strangest I have measured was at a pre that noise (mains and multiples, at very low level of course) were going up and down depending the pot position!
This is not so unusual. It is a compensation between two sub-optimal parts of the overall design that are separated by the pot. I have seen it many times.
 
Considering there 20 year transferable warranty, built like tanks, and the above measurements of a 35 year old unit you can save a lot of money buying used.
I was just about to write the same thing. I got these amps used, Bryston encourages that with the transferable warranty and the fact they still support all of their gear.
Also, the 7B is fairly unique in that it can legitimately drive ultra-low impedance speakers. Infinity Kappa and IRS, Apogee, etc. The only competition at the time that could do that were well over twice the price of the Bryston. And likely not close to the reliability and serviceability. And all of those competing brands are gone or sold to aggregated companies that don't support the original products.

I also personally don't like unreliability and unserviceability, so am willing to pay more up front.
Three of my four Adcom pieces are gone due to reliability, the GDA-600 DAC being the only remaining unit that still works.
I am pretty sure I have wasted enough money on Topping's unreliability to buy a used 7B off of eBay. :facepalm:
So putting aside my dislike of unreliability, I probably saved money compared to any other 600-800 Watt.

This hobby isn't really about saving money though...:) If so, I would probably stick to Miles commercial amps. Dirt cheap, unbreakable, and able to drive absurdly low impedances and still sound good.
 
The strangest I have measured was at a pre that noise (mains and multiples, at very low level of course) were going up and down depending the pot position!
The best was at about 2 o' clock (a little before unity gain) where they were completely disappear.
That sort of stuff can happen when the grounding scheme is, let's say, less than perfectly starry.

The little Yamaha Pianocraft receiver I gave to my parents for their PC has a buzz behaving the opposite way, so I presume the wiring coming from the pot may be picking up interference electrostatically from the adjacent display unit.

Side note, the noise we're seeing in the Bryston is really suggesting some sort of inductive pickup. There must be a loop that's coupling to the transformer wiring.
 
I was just about to write the same thing. I got these amps used, Bryston encourages that with the transferable warranty and the fact they still support all of their gear.
Also, the 7B is fairly unique in that it can legitimately drive ultra-low impedance speakers. Infinity Kappa and IRS, Apogee, etc. The only competition at the time that could do that were well over twice the price of the Bryston. And likely not close to the reliability and serviceability. And all of those competing brands are gone or sold to aggregated companies that don't support the original products.

I also personally don't like unreliability and unserviceability, so am willing to pay more up front.
Three of my four Adcom pieces are gone due to reliability, the GDA-600 DAC being the only remaining unit that still works.
I am pretty sure I have wasted enough money on Topping's unreliability to buy a used 7B off of eBay. :facepalm:
So putting aside my dislike of unreliability, I probably saved money compared to any other 600-800 Watt.

This hobby isn't really about saving money though...:) If so, I would probably stick to Miles commercial amps. Dirt cheap, unbreakable, and able to drive absurdly low impedances and still sound good.
I agree with everything you said here.

The only thing is, some Bryston, new is $20k+USD. For $20k+, getting a 20 year warranty, isn't necessarily considered generous, I think it's par for the course. And reliability is what I would expect for this amount of money.

Now on the other hand, if you can find a good deal on the used market, then I say that is the sweet spot.

If Bryston can sell direct and cut the distributor and dealer margin out, I think that would be a very nice winning formula for them. One can only hope.
 
Quality is remembered after price is forgotten. I had an b100sst for a couple decades and latest series 4B3 for a couple years. Super impressed with the understated quality on both. Great thing about bryston if you are price conscious, is you can buy a decade or so old unit with a clear conscious that they will support it. SST SST2 series are actually pretty reasonable used.


only thing that I scratch my head on is their power strategy on amps. They have smaller amps but the 4b series at 300/500wpc is the basic size. Who are the bigger amps for? 28b is at the limits of 110VAC into 4 ohms, I cant see the need in a home environment.
 
Bryston always made great amps. Alas, they are very expensive, I would even use the word overpriced.
price divided over years of ownership + price per year which keeps going down.
At the rate of $40 an hour (what I have been offered 2 years ago for the expertise in my head [and the ability to get it done or also to supervise others to get it done]).
How much time that I DO NOT use pulling things in & out of my stereo, researching new gear (because the old gear broke), obtaining the new gear AND the inability to listen to music over speakers during this process: is very important to me. Spend a few bucks now for long term reliable gear is more important (to me) than inexpensive new gear that is likely to be replaced in a few years. I am not part of the 'got to have the latest & greatest' group.
I want it set up & to be able to come home, turn it on & relax (for many years) without fuss.
Which is also a reason that I have duplicates (or at least a substitute) for everything in my system.
Swap out & keep on playing. Repair or replace the offending problem at my leisure.
 
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