• Welcome to ASR. There are many reviews of audio hardware and expert members to help answer your questions. Click here to have your audio equipment measured for free!

Broad discussion on speaker cabinet materials.

With regard to Acora and the idea that Stone is the best speaker material, no doubt because the claim is it is so dense and less resonant, it seems a lot of audiophiles (at least outside ASR) almost take it for granted that the thicker or stiffer the material means less resonance.

But from what I’ve been able to understand, everything resonates, and in that sense, you’re just sort of pushing resonances around. (I experienced this myself in trying different materials beneath my loudspeaker, including a thick marble base, which still resonated).

You can see in the Stereophile measurements of an Acora speaker cabinet, that in a way they’re just moving resonances around, as there is a major resonance around 900Hz.
It seems were most wooden cabinets have lower frequency resonances, this stone cabinet has simply moved it up in the frequency response:

1756572777585.jpeg



There’s a nice discussion of cabinet resonance and how Magico approach it in the recent Stereophile review of the big Magico S5 speaker. Here:

————————————-

This is a massive loudspeaker, weighing 262lb. People often assume that adding mass minimizes resonant behavior, however, this isn't correct. When mathematically modeled, mass behaves as a reactance, either capacitive or inductive depending on the situation, and as any engineer will tell you, you cannot dissipate energy with a reactance. Only resistance will do that, and the mechanical analog of electrical resistance is frictional loss. By itself, therefore, an undamped massive structure is no less resonant than an undamped lightweight one, and in fact, by acting as a bigger capacitor, can make the situation worse. Mass and damping is what is required, along with strategic placement of bracing.


Aluminum rings. I discussed this subject-vibration and mass—with Alon Wolf, who said that people think that's a bad thing. On the contrary, he explained, it's a good thing it rings because it means it releases energy quickly. He told me that before they actually build anything, the design is completely laid down. Three-dimensional modeling-simulation-is used to optimize the design of the S5 2024's aluminum enclosure, maximizing stiffness while enabling optimal damping. Following the simulation, a cabinet is assembled, and a Polytec laser Doppler vibrometer is used to examine the vibrational behavior at many points on its surface. The resultant data can then be used to calculate the sound-pressure levels generated by the vibrations, and the enclosure's construction is then remodeled by the simulator, addressing the problems found by the laser vibrometer. This iterative strategy enables Magico to ensure that the S5's cabinet doesn't add coloration. The end result, Wolf said, is the perfect enclosure.


——————————————-

Seems Magico know what they are speaking of, here is JA’s measurement of the Magico cabinet vibration. Nothing there:

1756573307659.png

I think the part I bolded above is likely telling with regard to the resonance found in the stone Acora speaker:

“By itself, therefore, an undamped massive structure is no less resonant than an undamped lightweight one, and in fact, by acting as a bigger capacitor, can make the situation worse.”

Because as I remember, one of Acora’s claims is that the density of the stone cabinet allows them to do away with the need for damping material within the cabinet that would reduce sensitivity, and so they’re able to get higher sensitivity by leaving other damping material out of the design.

It looks like they’re not totally successful in that regard.
 
Fink Team, led by german speaker development icon Karl Heinz Fink, seems to be among the industry leaders when it comes to evidence based speaker cabinets.

They employ:
- Constrained layer damping
- Point to point bracing
- Internal Helmholtz resonators

Q Acoustics Concept 500 developed by Fink:
View attachment 473090

View attachment 473093
Source: https://www.stereophile.com/content/q-acoustics-concept-50-loudspeaker-measurements

Fink Team Kim:
View attachment 473091

View attachment 473094

Suggest it is worth noting that is not only about materials used, but technique applied as well. Am specifically noting the additional woofer motor bracing and baffle mounting.
 
Last edited:
Suggest it is worth noting that is not only about materials used, but technique as well. Am specifically noting the additional woofer motor bracing and baffle mounting.
Agreed. All these what's the best material threads have the same answer, the best result requires clearly defining what excellent would be, and getting a talented engineer to deliver it. Don't start with the solution, e.g aluminium, start with the problem.

We have a footstool with an aluminium foot, turned upside down so it's not damped by the carpet it rings like crazy from a small tap, audibly for over a minute, if you then touch it you can feel it still moving and it strongly resists a finger damping it. Anyone using this material needs to know what they are doing.
 
Whenever I've had concrete in my listening room, I've heard ringing. I like the Bowers & Wilkins "Matrix" idea where a wooden cabinet is filled with a honeycombed structure that improves rigidity without adding too much weight. I'm not particularly a fan of the voicing on their latest versions, but the "B&W" Nautilus 802 and 805 were special. They still command high prices 25 years later.
 
There's some great engineering going into speaker design these days from a handful of companies. Probably the best we've ever had, though it's all with cone drivers.
 
Seems Magico know what they are speaking of, here is JA’s measurement of the Magico cabinet vibration. Nothing there:

View attachment 473145
Stunning. They use aluminum, of course the geometry of the structure, the internal, strategic bracing, the overall design plays a huge role.

But could they have achieved this with HDF/MDF? I am very doubtful.
 
Last edited:
Agreed. All these what's the best material threads have the same answer, the best result requires clearly defining what excellent would be, and getting a talented engineer to deliver it. Don't start with the solution, e.g aluminium, start with the problem.

We have a footstool with an aluminium foot, turned upside down so it's not damped by the carpet it rings like crazy from a small tap, audibly for over a minute, if you then touch it you can feel it still moving and it strongly resists a finger damping it. Anyone using this material needs to know what they are doing.
In my case, best material means best physical properties that is best suited for a low resonating speaker cabinet.

Yes, of course, of course, engineering is key. But I am only asking about material properties. There is a reason why airplanes uses aluminum, titanium and other composite materials instead of steel for everything.

I know, many here will recoil at talking about these exotic materials because it drives up costs and/or it may diminish the emphasis on engineering. I'm not trying to diminish the emphasis on engineering, I swear.
 
Q: What is the best single (no composites) material, if weight is not an issue?
Thanks.
 
I used to build speakers. Used lumber plywood at first. Birch veneer and almost lumber in middle. Later the 19 core imported “Russian” plywood. Different hardness woods glued together. Doubled up the 3/4” plywood in a few.
What I sorted from this was the cabinet is a radiator. Just like the driver. Output is way down. Ratio of area of cabinet versus area of driver is very high. So the larger radiating area of cabinet offsets the higher output from the drivers. Some.
Listen with your ear touching the speaker cabinet. A good cabinet has the same tonal balance as what you hear in room.
Hardwood plywood can do that. MDF or HDF cannot. Neither can aluminum, stone, plastic, or cardboard.
 
In the real world, yes of course. But "size" is a vague term. I would think that volume is more relevant to sound surely.

As this thread is about optimal cabinet material, surely it is about what are the important physical properties of said material?

I am also curious about whether weight is often a limiting factor due to the (in)practicalities of super heavy speakers.

ie. All else being equal, and allowing for only one cabinet material. What material is best, if weight is not an issue?
 
Last edited:
My assumption is that nothing showing-up in Amir's speaker measurements is related to cabinet material.

...I've mostly used MDF but with at-least one of my (big) speakers I used plywood for the front & back panels because it was getting VERY heavy. (It probably didn't make much difference with just the front & back.)
I would limit this to, say, 90% of what Amir measures. There are a few pretty badly designed speakers, so probably some with such a badly designed cabinet that the resonances show up in measurements.
 
I know, many here will recoil at talking about these exotic materials because it drives up costs and/or it may diminish the emphasis on engineering. I'm not trying to diminish the emphasis on engineering, I swear.
Price and cost are almost always a factor. That means there are compromises. Putting the additional money into the drivers, or maybe into making a larger cabinet might often make more sense. The same goes for exotic driver materials or driver design. For the same price you might be able to get a "traditional speaker" that's better overall.

Any (significant) cabinet resonances will show-up in the frequency response so hopefully the speaker manufacturer has addressed them one way or another..

What I sorted from this was the cabinet is a radiator. Just like the driver. Output is way down. Ratio of area of cabinet versus area of driver is very high. So the larger radiating area of cabinet offsets the higher output from the drivers. Some.
Listen with your ear touching the speaker cabinet. A good cabinet has the same tonal balance as what you hear in room.
Hardwood plywood can do that. MDF or HDF cannot. Neither can aluminum, stone, plastic, or cardboard.
Yes, the output is way-down. I would expect that if you mount a (good) speaker in a wall, sealed with the cabinet in the adjoining room, the sound in the adjoining room would be more than 20dB quieter. i.e. I expect the sound radiation from the cabinet to be insignificant. ...But a lot of the sound will probably coming through the wall, so not a perfect experiment.

A good cabinet has the same tonal balance as what you hear in room.
Hopefully, it's so low-level that we don't hear it in normal listening so we don't care what it sounds like. And of course you're not going to hear the tweeter.



Here's a quote from Amir that "resonates" with me:
I don't know why people are so fascinated with how some speaker/headphone is made. What matters are the results.
 
... the properties of stone, presumably the inert nature of it. ...
Chemically inert? It is not about the material. It is the 3D-design of the structures made of it. And righty right, it is blinking towards 3D print, maybe. Everyone who would tell that his/her material is better than other without mentioning, discussing the overall construction may be deemed a seller of snakeoil. This is set in stone.

A single brace between two panels may stiffen the construction by a factor of 100 (one hundred).

... speaker development icon Karl Heinz Fink, seems to be among the industry leaders when it comes to evidence based speaker cabinets.
I never knew that. What he does is summarizing methods he didn't invent in the first place. They were not used since, maybe because of their ineffectiveness, money wise. But of course, you could make a big fuzz of a problem, and then after sell a solution. Say, selective evidence?
 
I would limit this to, say, 90% of what Amir measures. There are a few pretty badly designed speakers, so probably some with such a badly designed cabinet that the resonances show up in measurements.
I would not even dare to guess a number. Perhaps many woofers have a behaviour of lower distortion around 100-200 Hz vs 200-1000 Hz, but that goes against my logics. My expectation is a gradual increase in distortion as frequency is lowered.
Eg
 
Looking at the world of machining, where mills and lathes need to cut through exotic materials while exhibiting minimal strucutral resinance - I'd say the best material, not considering cost or weight is cast iron or epoxy-granite. The latter needs to be made to special recipe with graded size granite and epoxy content (you won't mix this at home).

That said, bracing and geometry play a huge factor. Also the stiffer the material, the more you may struggle to control internal cabinet standing waves.
 
Advocatus diaboli:
Use whatever you like, as far as it's resonance frequency is far (at least 2 or 3 harmonics) off the frequency you play ...

(Of course there are some solutions of workaround).
 
I posted some tests on DIYaudio forum where I was exploring the idea of using composite materials to make CLD panels. My idea was to do a "proper" CLD panel, which is to join 2 resonant materials with a soft urethane glue to cancel out the resonances.

My test method was to attach an "exciter" to a test panel, and then clamp the panel in a jig. I run a sweep with the exciter and measure the frequency response on the opposite side of the panel.

I was trying to figure out if I could make thinner panels that could perform as well as MDF. I used multiple combinations of materials, different thicknesses of plywood, different types of MDF, facing the plywood and MDF with carbon fiber, fiberglass, and flax. Also making fully composite panels from carbon fiber and other materials.

The quick summary is that a high quality MDF (I tested a 3/4" MR50 panel) performs the best up to 1khz. It had the lowest average SPL, with fewest resonant peaks. Above 1khz the CLD panels were significantly better.

The MDF worked well below 1khz because of it's combination of mass, rigidity, and internal damping qualities. But above 1khz the rigidity allowed more resonance.

My composite CLD panels were a lot less stiff than the MDF, despite being made from carbon fiber, which is why they were not as good at low frequencies. But they performed better at the high frequencies, The higher the frequency the less resonant they were..

I hope that one takeaway from my testing is to help people correctly apply CLD and driver isolation. The CLD is like a low pass filter, so it should be used to target high frequencies. One idea is to use it to decouple the tweeter and midranges in a speaker?

A am also interested in bonding MDF panels with a urethane adhesive. The thought is that this would damp high frequencies while maintaining the rigidity of the MDF, which is non-resonant at lower frequencies.

(I can post measurements from my testing if you guys are interested.)
 
What you want from a cabinet is stiffness as well as damping if you can get it. To me this says that an ideal cabinet probably isn't made from a single material, but a composite of layers... stiffness, absorption, and damping are all desirable, but you have to trade those off for different materials. Traditionally builders going balls-out use concrete, sand layers, aluminum, and elastic damping layers of various kinds. If you were truly sparing no expense and going completely crazy (crazier than machining from stone) you might use multiple layers of tungsten with damping layers in between.
I remember fondly a DIY speaker project I built right after I got out of College. Two 4 cubic ft approximately drainpipes with 1" plywood caps on each end. The 12" dual cone speaker and the 4" port mounted on one end and I had a relatively decent sounding speaker for not much money. Best I recall this was based on a project published in Popular Electronics back in the early 70s.
 
Back
Top Bottom