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Breeze TPA3255 XLR Balanced Amplifier TearDown : DIP8 Op Amps.

Doodski

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However, it has sometimes happened to me that some OPAMPS with excellent technical characteristics had given less good listening results than others much less good.
The subjectivity produced by our hearing is not the same for everyone: it is based on personal preference and cannot be swept away by even objective measures.

Not everyone has measuring instruments but most of the time, listeners all have one thing in common: hearing but which remains different for each person without talking about reference in terms of 'sound signature'...
... Everyone is free to appreciate or not a sound reproduction device, whatever the criteria ;)
Is this subjective OP amp testing done blind so there is no imaginative trickery stuff occurring in one's mind?
 

Doodski

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I'm sorry buddy, but I have a simple question for you, what are your cheap, pointless insertions for, you want to annoy someone to improve your own hopeless well-being ...?


I'm sorry buddy, but I have a simple question for you, what are your cheap, pointless insertions for, you want to annoy someone to improve your own hopeless well-being ...?


Yes, of course, bipolar parameters are worse than Fet, but we hear it and we like it, it is not "rigid wire with flat characteristics" but distortions usually from 3rd order bipolar ...
Oooo a smarty pants with attitude. I'm thoroughly put in my place by your diatribe. If you are not doing the extensive blind testing then you are not only dreaming up fantastical assumptions but are wasting time, wasting energy and resources chasing a OP amp fantasy. :D
 

Doodski

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@Polkern and this is a objective website not for subjective dreamy ideas and rubbish assumptions.
 

Doodski

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A w jakim języku chcesz to zrozumieć? Przepraszam kolego, ale mam do ciebie proste pytanie, po co ci te twoje tanie, bezsensowne wstawki, chcesz komuś dokuczyć, żeby poprawić sobie własne beznadziejne samopoczucie...?

it's great that you explained to yourself what the substantive website is, so just my private question, what are you still doing here?
At present I am here for you. I complained to the admin(s) that you won't use English. We'll see where that gets you and your arrogance. If I make some fantasy assumptions like you do about OP amps then you have nowhere to go so you came here to ASR. You've been through all the Polish websites for audio and need to be here and you still can't behave like a decent, intelligent and smart individual. Your arrogance is astounding. :D
 

SMen

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This thread has been really interesting up until now. We have had an informative discussion with circuit diagrams with a view to optimizing the BRZ3255 amplifier. It is interesting that there might be technical reasons for certain components to be better, and there surely needs to be some careful A/B listening and an awareness regarding subjectivity.
Could we get back to that?

I am looking forward to reading about the results of the technical preparations, but I fear that some thoroughly decent contributors are simply going to come to the conclusion that it is not worth the effort of contributing here. And that is not what ASR is about either surely.
 

Sixto

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Interesting thread, would someone care to summarize what the most important mods are for this amp board? So many posts are confusing to follow. it seems that the initial recommendations are to swap out the Op Amps, replace the 4 Wima Caps, and possibly replace the Power supply? but it gets confusing after that.
 

SMen

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Interesting thread, would someone care to summarize what the most important mods are for this amp board? So many posts are confusing to follow. it seems that the initial recommendations are to swap out the Op Amps, replace the 4 Wima Caps, and possibly replace the Power supply? but it gets confusing after that.
I think there are three versions, with two pending refinements after much discussion between @ICIETDIYEUR and @v1adpetrov2. I think their upgrades might operate at different voltages but we shall see (maybe). I am happy with the 36v or so for my power without having to handle extra heat.

I swapped in bipolars but found excessive bass (for me). It was so obvious I swapped the originals back.

I then A/B'd the stock 5532 vs OPA1656 which (coincidentally) both @ICIETDIYEUR and @v1adpetrov2 use.

I A/B'd just to be able to say I had :)D) but I liked the greater detail, and extension up and down of the OPA1656 and so I stayed with that. I am waiting to see the practical verdicts (after listening even if subjective) of @ICIETDIYEUR and @v1adpetrov2 of the capacitor and other upgrades. Ideally they could compare with a stock unit (to see) ...

My experience was that this modification was much more obvious than for example, comparing two dacs, and just trying the FET was informative. @ICIETDIYEUR gave technical reasons why this type might be more suitable. That is my best effort at a summary of where we are.
 

Sixto

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I think there are three versions, with two pending refinements after much discussion between @ICIETDIYEUR [email protected] @v1adpetrov2. I think their upgrades might operate at different voltages but we shall see (maybe). I
Thanks, that helps a lot. I guess we shall see if there are any further updates.
 

v1adpetrov2

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Interesting thread, would someone care to summarize what the most important mods are for this amp board? So many posts are confusing to follow. it seems that the initial recommendations are to swap out the Op Amps, replace the 4 Wima Caps, and possibly replace the Power supply? but it gets confusing after that.
Yes, you have correctly generalized the easiest and most obvious modifications of this amplifier:
1. replace operational amplifiers with better ones (to your taste).
2. replace the 4 original Wima Caps 1µF or 2,2µF with 10µF to reduce phase distortion of the input signal.
Next are non-obvious modifications that can cause controversial opinions about their expediency:
3. if you have large speakers with 10 or 12-inch drivers, then you need to replace four 470µF/50V capacitors with two (three/four) LowESR 2200µF/63V electrolytic capacitors (this will be enough to provide dynamics at low frequencies). To test the dynamics at low frequencies, you can use these two audio-tracks. When listening through a good quality amplifier, the sound of a bass drum from first track resonates in your chest and makes it difficult to breathe.
4. replace the 30 kOhm resistor with 10 kOhm, which raised the frequency of the modulator from 450 kHz to 600 kHz. This will cause increased heating of the TPA3255 chip, so it is necessary to make ventilation holes in the upper cover of the case.
5. shunting a 220uF/63V electrolytic capacitor to power the chip TPA3255 with a 1nF/100V film capacitor to remove some of the high-frequency ripples.
6. we improve the quality of the power supply of operational amplifiers and the modulator in TPA3255 by replacing the parts around the converter voltage from 36-50V to 12V LM2575HV.

I made all six of these modifications on my amplifier and am pleased with their result! :)

1. BRZHIFI_Balanced_(TPA3255)_mod_the_front_side_04.jpg or 2 - Décou. AOP.jpg
2. 9.jpg 14.jpg 3 - Diagram.jpg
3. BRZHIFI_Balanced_(TPA3255)_original_20.jpg BRZHIFI_Balanced_(TPA3255)_original_23.jpg
4. BRZHIFI_Balanced_(TPA3255)_mod_the_front_side_01_(small).jpg BRZHIFI_Balanced_(TPA3255)_original_18.jpg
5. BRZHIFI_Balanced_(TPA3255)_mod_the_reverse_side_01.jpg
6. Régulateur LM2575 et ses composants (VDD 12Volts).jpg LM2575HVS_mod__04b.jpg LM2575HVS_mod__03.jpg LM2575HVS_mod__05.jpg
 
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Sixto

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Yes, you have correctly generalized the easiest and most obvious modifications of this amplifier:

3. if you have large speakers with 10 or 12-inch drivers, then you need to replace four 470µF/50V capacitors with two (three/four) LowESR 2200µF/63V electrolytic capacitors (this will be enough to provide dynamics at low frequencies). To test the dynamics at low frequencies, you can use these two audio-tracks. When listening through a good quality amplifier, the sound of a bass drum from first track resonates in your chest and makes it difficult to breathe.



3. View attachment 246443 View attachment 246442
Thank you for your detailed response! I do have a follow-up about item #3 - while the note indicates replacing these capacitors, the photo appears to show that the new LowESR 2200µF/63V electrolytic capacitors were added to existing? Also it appears you used 4 green .015uf film bypass capacitors... It seems rather crowded on the board, any reason why you did not remove the existing capacitors? Also thanks for the description of how you evaluate LF dynamics, I have similar preferences.
 

v1adpetrov2

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Thank you for your detailed response! I do have a follow-up about item #3 - while the note indicates replacing these capacitors, the photo appears to show that the new LowESR 2200µF/63V electrolytic capacitors were added to existing? Also it appears you used 4 green .015uf film bypass capacitors... It seems rather crowded on the board, any reason why you did not remove the existing capacitors? Also thanks for the description of how you evaluate LF dynamics, I have similar preferences.
This is a photo of the first modification of the power capacitors. In the original, the supply voltage = 36V.
After I increased the supply voltage to 42V, I removed these four 470mkF/50V capacitors to have a standard 25% overvoltage margin using 2200µF/63V capacitors only.
 

ICIETDIYEUR

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People hi :)

@ v1adpetrov2 :

Do you have a picture of this new capacitor layout please ?

Kind regards ;)
 

v1adpetrov2

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Do you have a picture of this new capacitor layout please ?
Unfortunately, there are no more recent photos. I didn't see much point in taking a photo after that. The amplifier case is already closed and works successfully in a home hi-fi system.
 

ICIETDIYEUR

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People hi :)

@ v1adpetrov2 :

Very good :D

Can you then say what are the values and models you have retained and more precisely how did you implant the capacitors on the PCB ?

(A small diagram or sketch would suffice ;))

Kind regards.
 

Mak

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I had a read through this forum but have very limited knowledge of Diy amplifiers. I have never done any modification to an amplifier before. I built my first set of floorstanding speakers using the Mark audio alpair 11ms drivers. Just wondering what kind of modifications would be suitable for this Brz amplifier to match my speakers? I am currently using a Laptop>via usb cable>Burson composer 3xp DAC (using the V6 Vivid op amps)>XLR>H&H V500 class A Mosfet power amp>Diy Mark Audio Alpair MS11 floorstanding speakers. I only stream off Spotify and wish to use the XLR outputs. The sound is good from this current setup but the Amplifier puts out a lot of heat so i have had to constantly run a fan to keep it cool. If I don't run my own fan to keep it cool constantly, the amplifier has an internal fan (which is rather loud) that kicks in every 5 mins or so and is rather annoying as it interferes with the music. I am running the fan from outside of my room so that I can't hear it as clearly but the problem is that the hot air escaping the amplifier is heating up the room. This is why i would like to try out class D as they produce less heat and don't have any fan noise. I Have attached a picture of my setup. My room is within a tin shed so i have created a smaller room within the room with the use of moving blankets. Your assistance is much appreciated!
 

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v1adpetrov2

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I had a read through this forum but have very limited knowledge of Diy amplifiers. I have never done any modification to an amplifier before. I built my first set of floorstanding speakers using the Mark audio alpair 11ms drivers. Just wondering what kind of modifications would be suitable for this Brz amplifier to match my speakers?...
In topic #189, all modifications are described in detail.
If you are not sure of your level of technical skills to upgrade BRZHIFI TPA3255XLR, then just buy an SMSL AO200 amplifier or two Sabaj A20A 2022 (one for each channel).
And there will be happiness for you! ;)
 
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Mak

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In topic #189, all modifications are described in detail.
If you are not sure of your level of technical skills to upgrade BRZHIFI TPA3255XLR, then just buy an SMSL AO200 amplifier or two Sabaj A20A 2022 (one for each channel).
And there will be happiness for you! ;)
I'm happy to give upgrading a go, just the most simple upgrade
 

ToniESP

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Thank you for allowing me to join such a great group of enthusiasts. Sorry for my bad English. I joined you impressed with your amplifier modification from China. First I want to thank the author who made me anti super forum - v1adpetrov2 - a class of professionalism of knowledge and willingness to share with others. In conclusion, I confirm that, following the advice of v1adpetrov2, I introduced only modifications that were understandable to me from the photos, but new amplifier noises appeared in the speakers ... Maybe this is due to the lack of information what solutions v1adpetrov2 used when choosing a 0.015uF capacitor at the power supply? I will be very grateful for help v1adpetrov2. In addition, I encourage ICIETDIYEUR to show his amplifier after modifications! Opening the housing of this amplifier is child's play - 4 screws ... so show us what your amplifiers look like after modifications, so that you can make these changes at home? I cordially greet everyone
 
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