Roland68
Major Contributor
My conclusion was related to post #374 and other posts.
If I misinterpreted this, misrepresented the context, or offended you, I apologize.
-
WANTED: Happy members who like to discuss audio and other topics related to our interest. Desire to learn and share knowledge of science required. There are many reviews of audio hardware and expert members to help answer your questions. Click here to have your audio equipment measured for free!
Breeze TPA3255 XLR Balanced Amplifier TearDown : DIP8 Op Amps.
- Thread starter daniboun
- Start date
If I misinterpreted this, misrepresented the context, or offended you, I apologize.
How do you get from "that is an extraordinary claim requiring extraordinary evidence" Or "Generally it won't influence. And where it does, it's about noise, not the things you're describing"
To
"it can't have an influence"?
The HRP are enclosed power supplies.
HRP/HRPG Series
HRP series is AC-DC Single output enclosed power supply; ranging from 100~600W fan cooling and the HRPG series is AC-DC Single output enclosed power supply; ranging from 150~1000W; fan cooling; remote on/off + 5Vdc at 0.3A standby
Hi can You send Me full circuit?okay, so update! my amplifier got fully refunded, and i blew the tpa chip when i accidentally shorted pin1 and 2 on the lm2575. currently looking at two options. 1 i order parts and fix the amplifier as it is, with potential upgrades, there are some bridged pads where the tpa3255 gets soldered to the board, but they are all connected either way, so i figgured that wont be an issue.
My option two, and this is the one i am most unsure about - It does sound like the option i will enjoy the most, and learn the most from.
I design a new pcb, Solder wires from the outputs of both opamps or anywhere from the outputs where its feasible to do so, assemble the new pcb with standoffs, bringing the new pcb high enough that i will have a protruding heatsink. Possible making room underneath for the bigger capacitors to fit. all while having a good time.
But i do have a few questions, why did they put 1k resistors between outputs on opamps and the 10uF caps for the inputs on the tpa3255?
is pin 4? on the relays supposed to go to ground?
And does any1 have suggestions as to what the best way of utilizing the fault and clip outputs on the tpa3255 is?
I desoldered quite a bit now, so if any1 wants a picture of the board pretty bare bones i'm more than willing to take a picture
View attachment 271483
I don't fully grasp what popping pills are all about because I don't even do aspirins.
Some may bicker that XLR cables are useless opioids for consumers; others may mod their power supplies chasing noise they can't hear or see.
But I also don't quite understand the intention of popping OpAmps like they were aspirins. Especially those with scant knowledge of complex (yet crucial) differences between Bipolar, JFET and CMOS designtechnologies topologies and not just at their inputs and outputs but also how they interact and REACT (impedance, noise, distortion, byproducts, etc.) with them internally (ckt-in-ckt).
There is malice waiting to happen in any good circuit design, as well as in audio design.
Popping OpAmps and claiming 'Eureka' degrades everything @SIY is trying to bring to your attention/claims (imo) and makes mockery of how complex the testing-end is about, which @amirm has to contend with day-in and day-out.
Some may bicker that XLR cables are useless opioids for consumers; others may mod their power supplies chasing noise they can't hear or see.
But I also don't quite understand the intention of popping OpAmps like they were aspirins. Especially those with scant knowledge of complex (yet crucial) differences between Bipolar, JFET and CMOS design
There is malice waiting to happen in any good circuit design, as well as in audio design.
Popping OpAmps and claiming 'Eureka' degrades everything @SIY is trying to bring to your attention/claims (imo) and makes mockery of how complex the testing-end is about, which @amirm has to contend with day-in and day-out.
Last edited:
OP
daniboun
Major Contributor
- Thread Starter
- #407
I don't fully grasp what popping pills are all about because I don't even do aspirins.
Some may bicker that XLR cables are useless opioids for consumers; others may mod their power supplies chasing noise they can't hear or see.
But I also don't quite understand the intention of popping OpAmps like they were aspirins. Especially those with scant knowledge of complex (yet crucial) differences between Bipolar, JFET and CMOS designtechnologiestopologies and not just at their inputs and outputs but also how they interact and REACT (impedance, noise, distortion, byproducts, etc.) with them internally (ckt-in-ckt).
There is malice waiting to happen in any good circuit design, as well as in audio design.
Popping OpAmps and claiming 'Eureka' degrades everything @SIY is trying to bring to your attention/claims (imo) and makes mockery of how complex the testing-end is about, which @amirm has to contend with day-in and day-out.
Interpretations relate to auditory subjectivity. on ASR, there is little room for postulates... Amir has already measured the effect of changing op amps on several amps including the TPA325X / Purifi etc...
You just have to be curious and search a little... here is one example among many others!
There is almost no difference... Conclusion: save your money and trust the measurements.
Sonic Imagery 990ENH ($85 / unit) VS Sparkos Pro SS2590 ($60 / unit) VS OPA1612 ($10)
Discrete OpAmp Review: Sonic Imagery vs Sparkos
Recently I reviewed the Nord Three SE 1ET400A Dual Mono Stereo Amplifier. That unit came with the Sonic Imagery's 990ENH discrete operational amplifier ("opamp") in the buffer stage (pre-amplifier). The owner then ordered a set of Sparkos Pro SS2590 discrete opamps. This gave me a chance to...
audiosciencereview.com
Review and Measurements of Purifi 1ET400A Amplifier
This is a review and detailed measurements of the Purifi 1ET400A Class-D amplifier module. Company was kind enough to send me a complete, assembled kit consisting of two modules, power supply and case, ready to go. They have not disclosed the cost of the unit. Modules will be available to DIY...
www.audiosciencereview.com
Hello everybody! If I chose the wrong topic, tell me where I can ask this question.
There is an old silver-colored BRZHIFI TPA3255 amplifier with bluetooth QCC3003, which has been working fine for two years for sure.
A black version of this amplifier with a more recent bluetooth QCC3034 was recently purchased for use in another room.
I turn on a new amplifier, it looks for a Bluetooth connection, works for a second or ten, then constant clicks begin, the sound stops. The same thing happens with the analog RCA input. While the sound is there, the amplifier consumes about 7 watts. After switching to protection, the consumption is reduced to 1.8 watts (smart sockets report). At the same time, the power supply both gave out 36 V DC and continues to give out (the multimeter reports).
a problem video illustration
I disassembled, inspected the board for poor soldering, possible board defects. Questionable points soldered.
I removed the radiator, removed excess thermal paste from the legs (namely the excess). Added a neat layer of thermal paste. All this steps didn't help.
The question is: what could be wrong with this new black amplifier? Does anyone know?
I've got the same amplifier.
There is an old silver-colored BRZHIFI TPA3255 amplifier with bluetooth QCC3003, which has been working fine for two years for sure.
A black version of this amplifier with a more recent bluetooth QCC3034 was recently purchased for use in another room.
I turn on a new amplifier, it looks for a Bluetooth connection, works for a second or ten, then constant clicks begin, the sound stops. The same thing happens with the analog RCA input. While the sound is there, the amplifier consumes about 7 watts. After switching to protection, the consumption is reduced to 1.8 watts (smart sockets report). At the same time, the power supply both gave out 36 V DC and continues to give out (the multimeter reports).
a problem video illustration
I disassembled, inspected the board for poor soldering, possible board defects. Questionable points soldered.
I removed the radiator, removed excess thermal paste from the legs (namely the excess). Added a neat layer of thermal paste. All this steps didn't help.
Last edited:
Some news. 36V comes out of the power supply, comes to the step-down LM2575, from where 12V already comes out.
I noticed that when clicks happen, the 12V disappears. It turns out that the LM2575 goes into defense. So far, this is all I could find to localize the problem area
I noticed that when clicks happen, the 12V disappears. It turns out that the LM2575 goes into defense. So far, this is all I could find to localize the problem area
How do I understand what exactly is not working correctly?
A stable 35.6V is supplied from the power supply to the LM2575. Floating 10.9-11.5V output from the LM2575.
These floating 11V come on two AMS1117-3.3, from where stable 3.3V come out.
The instability of 11 V from the LM2575 output is confusing.
Question: is this the LM2575 itself or is it still its binding?
Otherwise, it will turn out that you buy a new LM2575, but it will not be about him, and he is good.
By the way, sometimes the amplifier does not start at all, namely, there is no voltage from the output of the LM2575. Is he protecting himself from problems in the circuit? Or is it just him? Is there any way to test it?
Interestingly, the fifth leg is "on/off" - how does it work? Locking your fifth foot on the ground?
A stable 35.6V is supplied from the power supply to the LM2575. Floating 10.9-11.5V output from the LM2575.
These floating 11V come on two AMS1117-3.3, from where stable 3.3V come out.
The instability of 11 V from the LM2575 output is confusing.
Question: is this the LM2575 itself or is it still its binding?
Otherwise, it will turn out that you buy a new LM2575, but it will not be about him, and he is good.
By the way, sometimes the amplifier does not start at all, namely, there is no voltage from the output of the LM2575. Is he protecting himself from problems in the circuit? Or is it just him? Is there any way to test it?
Interestingly, the fifth leg is "on/off" - how does it work? Locking your fifth foot on the ground?
I don't think anyone can diagnose the problem for you without the amp in front of them, and with a circuit diagram - wich BRZ may or may not be willing to supply. Since it is new I'd suggest returning it to the supplier if it is not too late. Otherwise take to a competent repair person - or just write it off to experience.
My guess would be that the amp is going into protection - whether through an actual fault, or due to a fault in the error detection is impossible to say.
Looking at the pin 5 description it does look like On will be low (ground) and off will be high - without the datasheet I cant tell you what that high voltage will be.
My guess would be that the amp is going into protection - whether through an actual fault, or due to a fault in the error detection is impossible to say.
Looking at the pin 5 description it does look like On will be low (ground) and off will be high - without the datasheet I cant tell you what that high voltage will be.
You're right. I'm sorry you saw the bad soldering. I was trying to make it more reliable, believing that there might be microcracks. Next day I got a magnifying glass I did an inspection.
The places of ugly soldering have now been fixed. These photos are outdated by one day. However, it has no effect.
I checked the resistors, capacitors on the board, everything matches. Everything looks technically good.
Awareness comes with the passage of time. I found out that the 4th leg (feedback) returns a stable 11.8 V. I just measured right on the 2nd leg - OUT, without coils and capacitors - mandatory strapping elements. In general, it seems that it is TPA3255 that is unstable. So far, all the news by this hour
Hey, hi!Does anybody know if earthing on the speaker outlets is fixed given that this is a balanced class D amplifier?
This is in the context of running a subwoofer (REL type) through it's high level inputs. I've been doing this for years with phonos connected and the volume turned down for the low level phono input on other class d amps.
REL talk about it here.
How to Connect a Subwoofer to a Class D Amp | REL Acoustics
The spreading proliferation of Class D amps creates a challenge when connecting a REL subwoofer using our High Level Connection. The proliferations isrel.net
Just wondering if, with this being balanced it might be different, or if there is a way to 'connect to ground' directly with the high level ground wire ... safely that is...
Did you get a response about your Rel and Class-D question? I'm in the same position, wondering.
Thanks!
Hi,
It depends on the manufacturer and model. I am using MJ Acoustics Pro 50 MK2 through the high level speaker inputs (Neutrik Speakon) and not the line level. MJ Acoustics were quite clear on these older models to not connect the line level and speaker level connections at the same time without an add on (expensive at the time) when using class D or BTL.
REL seem to suggest ' earthing' their older units using the RCA connection - which is the exact opposite! I have not had any issues using the high level Speakon only.
Similar threads
