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Bookshelf Speakers recommendation

Gerarlt94

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Nov 9, 2025
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I need help chosing new speakers, the budget is $1000, they can be active or passive with a dac/amp. They are mainly for movie and video games speakers with good soundstage are preferred.
I've seen on videos that for a 1k budget, powered speakers are the best option, but i dont know if thats true. Thanks for your time
 
I need help chosing new speakers, the budget is $1000, they can be active or passive with a dac/amp. They are mainly for movie and video games speakers with good soundstage are preferred.
I've seen on videos that for a 1k budget, powered speakers are the best option, but i dont know if thats true. Thanks for your time
Are these for nearfield, midfield, are farfield and is the budget including the DAC/Amp?
 
Are these for nearfield, midfield, are farfield and is the budget including the DAC/Amp?
They will be at around 4 feet from me since they will go beside de desktop. The 1k budget for the passive most include amp and dac because i dont have any.
 
The Kali LP8 should give you decent bass and leave you room for a DAC/preamp and stands.

https://www.erinsaudiocorner.com/loudspeakers/kali_lp-8v2/

And a DAC like this.
 
Kalis are always a good choice. Do you have any limitations on how large the speakers can be? Do you need something compact or will something like a standard 2-way speaker with a 5 or 6 inch woofer be okay?
 
Kalis are always a good choice. Do you have any limitations on how large the speakers can be? Do you need something compact or will something like a standard 2-way speaker with a 5 or 6 inch woofer be okay?
I saw those kali measurements and i can get something like those or smaller. Not bigger then those
 
Those LP8s are fairly beefy speakers so you have plenty to choose from if that's your size limit.

Given your stated usage of music and video games, I would normally assume you want some good bass response. Are you averse to a subwoofer in your setup? Are you located in the U.S. or another market?
 
Those LP8s are fairly beefy speakers so you have plenty to choose from if that's your size limit.

Given your stated usage of music and video games, I would normally assume you want some good bass response. Are you averse to a subwoofer in your setup? Are you located in the U.S. or another market?
I buy in the US but not located there. I would be willing to add a subwoofer but i wanted to do it in stages. So the 1k is to te get started with a 2 speaker setup that i will not regret ik the long run and in another year could add the sub or other components to enhanced what i got.
 
Kali LP 6 V2's and a 12" subwoofer for the budget at least.
 
The Kali LP8 should give you decent bass and leave you room for a DAC/preamp and stands.

https://www.erinsaudiocorner.com/loudspeakers/kali_lp-8v2/

And a DAC like this.
Honest question since i have never heard a good speaker. Are the studio monitors speakers better for normal users like me than the typical consumer speakers?
 
I buy in the US but not located there. I would be willing to add a subwoofer but i wanted to do it in stages. So the 1k is to te get started with a 2 speaker setup that i will not regret ik the long run and in another year could add the sub or other components to enhanced what i got.
In such case try to see what you can catch from Genelac's/Neumann's for a good price but it will probably still be more than 1K $.
For example pair of KH 120 II now day's can be obtained under 1.5K. Compared to mentioned Kali's you get lower noise a little bit better tonality and they will probably last you considerably longer. You still of course need a sub or two.
 
Honest question since i have never heard a good speaker. Are the studio monitors speakers better for normal users like me than the typical consumer speakers?
Easier and cheaper not necessarily better, we take speakers as they mesure. If something is specifically designed and properly engineered to be used in near to mid field setup it will excel in doing so to put as easy as possible to understand. That's design goal and for example of such pasive relatively small bookshelf's that aren't advertised as monitors and get you there are now discontinued Revel M106. It's easier to do and even impossible for some things to be done with classic pasive crossovers but studio monitors with good digital one's are still rather expensive (and more so if they incorporate more DSP functionality as room correction, PEQ, FIR...). In the end it all depends on the room and strict placement. For example with speakers close to the wall behind them you won't get a great soundstage no matter how good they are as it's influenced by ratio of back to front refractions but limited accustic treatment also can help there. Just to get your expectations in the right place. There is also difference in life expectations. Cheap switching power supply 7~10 years, iron core good additional regulated 10+ year's (up to 20 or so) and pasive good buffy condensers 20+ year's.
 
Honest question since i have never heard a good speaker. Are the studio monitors speakers better for normal users like me than the typical consumer speakers?
not really, there isn't much that makes a studio monitor worse or better than a GOOD consumer speaker, a good speaker is a good speaker. Studio monitors just try to focus on neutrality as their first priority and everything else is secondary, whereas consumer ones try to go for louder sounds, wider sounds or design. Sometimes they also target different sound signatures like bright with boosted highs or "warm"/dark ones with less highs

The Kali will have a focused, tight imaging but it won't have too wide of a soundstage. Whereas in this budget, or even in general, wide speakers tend to not have precise imaging. Your ability to point out things in the simulated 3d field from the speakers would be less accurate with wider sounding stuff (in general). A game of compromises, really.

If you want a wider sounding pair of speakers which do NOT have as precise imaging then the ELAC DBR-62 or Wharfedale 12.1 come to mind but they are passive.

4 feet isn't too far so you can get adequate loudness from most speakers. So these will be fine. If you go down the passive speaker route, then you'd need to buy an amp as well. The Fosi ZA3, Topping PA5 II or Topping Mini 300 would be enough to power your stuff at this range I think. For the DAC the DX5 II is a good one. Then you'd use the rest of the budget on cables and stuff. But if you don't need headphones I think the SMSL SU-1 ought to be good enough as a DAC.

Whatever you do, make sure to factor in the budget for a sub. The one that I personally looked at was the RSL Speedwoofer 10e, 300 USD. Nothing much truly beats it and it's just a safe choice. Main issue is it could be a bit too big but that's it. For movies a sub is a must, in general a sub is a must i'd say, subwoofers help speakers get rid of lower frequency issues. If you're on PC, it's easy to just get a minidsp UMIK-1 later on and then EQ everything perfectly, as otherwise things might sound too boomy and stuff in your room. That's it really. Get a sub now or later on but make sure to factor in the UMIK-1 so that you can fix sounds in your room with EQ.
 
Easier and cheaper not necessarily better, we take speakers as they mesure. If something is specifically designed and properly engineered to be used in near to mid field setup it will excel in doing so to put as easy as possible to understand. That's design goal and for example of such pasive relatively small bookshelf's that aren't advertised as monitors and get you there are now discontinued Revel M106. It's easier to do and even impossible for some things to be done with classic pasive crossovers but studio monitors with good digital one's are still rather expensive (and more so if they incorporate more DSP functionality as room correction, PEQ, FIR...). In the end it all depends on the room and strict placement. For example with speakers close to the wall behind them you won't get a great soundstage no matter how good they are as it's influenced by ratio of back to front refractions but limited accustic treatment also can help there. Just to get your expectations in the right place. There is also difference in life expectations. Cheap switching power supply 7~10 years, iron core good additional regulated 10+ year's (up to 20 or so) and pasive good buffy condensers 20+ year's.
Thank you so much, this is very helpful
 
not really, there isn't much that makes a studio monitor worse or better than a GOOD consumer speaker, a good speaker is a good speaker. Studio monitors just try to focus on neutrality as their first priority and everything else is secondary, whereas consumer ones try to go for louder sounds, wider sounds or design. Sometimes they also target different sound signatures like bright with boosted highs or "warm"/dark ones with less highs

The Kali will have a focused, tight imaging but it won't have too wide of a soundstage. Whereas in this budget, or even in general, wide speakers tend to not have precise imaging. Your ability to point out things in the simulated 3d field from the speakers would be less accurate with wider sounding stuff (in general). A game of compromises, really.

If you want a wider sounding pair of speakers which do NOT have as precise imaging then the ELAC DBR-62 or Wharfedale 12.1 come to mind but they are passive.

4 feet isn't too far so you can get adequate loudness from most speakers. So these will be fine. If you go down the passive speaker route, then you'd need to buy an amp as well. The Fosi ZA3, Topping PA5 II or Topping Mini 300 would be enough to power your stuff at this range I think. For the DAC the DX5 II is a good one. Then you'd use the rest of the budget on cables and stuff. But if you don't need headphones I think the SMSL SU-1 ought to be good enough as a DAC.

Whatever you do, make sure to factor in the budget for a sub. The one that I personally looked at was the RSL Speedwoofer 10e, 300 USD. Nothing much truly beats it and it's just a safe choice. Main issue is it could be a bit too big but that's it. For movies a sub is a must, in general a sub is a must i'd say, subwoofers help speakers get rid of lower frequency issues. If you're on PC, it's easy to just get a minidsp UMIK-1 later on and then EQ everything perfectly, as otherwise things might sound too boomy and stuff in your room. That's it really. Get a sub now or later on but make sure to factor in the UMIK-1 so that you can fix sounds in your room with EQ.
I appreciate the information, i like the possibility of a wider speakers (i didn't know it before) over imagining because i am not very knowledgeable with this subject so i will take a look a your suggestions. Thank you. Also i been seeing else where that for a system like this, an AV receiver is a good option, whats is your opinion on this?
 
In such case try to see what you can catch from Genelac's/Neumann's for a good price but it will probably still be more than 1K $.
For example pair of KH 120 II now day's can be obtained under 1.5K. Compared to mentioned Kali's you get lower noise a little bit better tonality and they will probably last you considerably longer. You still of course need a sub or two.
They look very good, but unfortunately they go to much over my budget. I still appreciate your help, thanks
 
They look very good, but unfortunately they go to much over my budget. I still appreciate your help, thanks
That whose just example I found them for 610 € each lowest so far (new) and that's considerably when you take in the account they went for 1K. Dig in use index and compare prices as you have to hunt to get there. Sweat starting point is 6.5" woffer's that can take mid bass very good on their own and offloading rest anyway to sub's.
 
I appreciate the information, i like the possibility of a wider speakers (i didn't know it before) over imagining because i am not very knowledgeable with this subject so i will take a look a your suggestions. Thank you. Also i been seeing else where that for a system like this, an AV receiver is a good option, whats is your opinion on this?
an AVR is good if you want a multichannel setup. But not necessary for a 2.1 setup.

Also, I forgot. You better forget the DAC/Amps I mentioned and go with the Wiim Amp Pro or Wiim Amp Ultra (if you want a screen). That's because they have built-in EQ but most importantly bass management. This is crucial if you want a subwoofer and since you want stuff for movie watching, it's vital you get a Wiim Amp Pro/Ultra OR you get a Wiim Ultra separately if you want some other box for an amp. The Wiim Amp Pro will be your DAC+Amp in one box. You'll connect to pc using the Toslink port.

The main reason to get an AVR is for bass management but since the Wiim is here, there's no reason for an AVR i think. Make sure to factor in the budget for a sub my friend, without a sub movies aint gonna hit hard at all.

Erin's audio corner has a nice vid on stereo imaging and stuff check it out.

Don't think too much about much else. All you need is a decent bit of speakers with a tonality that'll suit your preferences (or you can eq it later on if you're willing to put in some time for that which is the best way to go imo), a good DAC/Amp to be the source for your speakers and provide them with enough power (since you're listening close you won't need too much) and a subwoofer for the lowest frequencies so you can feel the deep rumbly parts of the movie/music. A subwoofer also helps in reducing load off of the speakers so they usually perform better as well. You just need to make sure to also get a UMIK-1 and fix any problems in the sound that will arise from the room. Below ~500 hz, your room will be responsible for the sound and the size/objects in it would shape the sound. With the UMIK-1 you can measure the sound and fix any deficiencies.
 
an AVR is good if you want a multichannel setup. But not necessary for a 2.1 setup.

Also, I forgot. You better forget the DAC/Amps I mentioned and go with the Wiim Amp Pro or Wiim Amp Ultra (if you want a screen). That's because they have built-in EQ but most importantly bass management. This is crucial if you want a subwoofer and since you want stuff for movie watching, it's vital you get a Wiim Amp Pro/Ultra OR you get a Wiim Ultra separately if you want some other box for an amp. The Wiim Amp Pro will be your DAC+Amp in one box. You'll connect to pc using the Toslink port.

The main reason to get an AVR is for bass management but since the Wiim is here, there's no reason for an AVR i think. Make sure to factor in the budget for a sub my friend, without a sub movies aint gonna hit hard at all.

Erin's audio corner has a nice vid on stereo imaging and stuff check it out.

Don't think too much about much else. All you need is a decent bit of speakers with a tonality that'll suit your preferences (or you can eq it later on if you're willing to put in some time for that which is the best way to go imo), a good DAC/Amp to be the source for your speakers and provide them with enough power (since you're listening close you won't need too much) and a subwoofer for the lowest frequencies so you can feel the deep rumbly parts of the movie/music. A subwoofer also helps in reducing load off of the speakers so they usually perform better as well. You just need to make sure to also get a UMIK-1 and fix any problems in the sound that will arise from the room. Below ~500 hz, your room will be responsible for the sound and the size/objects in it would shape the sound. With the UMIK-1 you can measure the sound and fix any deficiencies.
What do think of a klipsch rp 600m, klipsch r 120 sw and a wiim amp pro?
 
What do think of a klipsch rp 600m, klipsch r 120 sw and a wiim amp pro?
the rp600m first gen sucks. Mark 2 is better tonally but its only good point imo is its dynamic/loudness capability, it can get loud and the thing still needs eq to sound good unless you like bright presentations.

The RP600M II is double the price of the speakers i mentioned, at least where I live. And that's not good at all imo.

The R 120 SW i cant find anything on but the more expensive R 121 SW is good enough but it's far too expensive for your budget and I don't think any of these would be good for nearfield-ish listening you're doing. Dunno what you see in these. Unless you really like the design and are willing to pay double the price for features you dont want (dynamic range/loudness), the ones i mentioned are all you need. If you're talking about the first gen Klipsch then forget it.
 
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