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Bookshelf speaker questions

fbirch

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Feb 21, 2025
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Hello – New member here. I’m building a 2-channel system for music listening and would appreciate opinions/guidance on speaker selection. Source material will be from Tidal via a hi-res streamer and a CD collection ripped to FLAC files. Although the listening room is somewhat large (27 ft X 18 ft = 8.2 m X 5.5 m), I’d really like to make it work with bookshelf speakers. Listening position is only about 10 ft = 3.0 m from the speakers, which will be spaced about 7 ft = 2.1 m apart from each other. The speakers will be driven by a high-quality integrated amp that can supply 200W per channel into any load with good headroom. Low end will be augmented by an active subwoofer. The room is somewhat lively without any treatment, but I could add some if needed. I typically prefer to listen at moderate volumes compared to most hi-fi enthusiasts. Music selection spans the full gamut.

I’ve auditioned several models from Sonus Faber, Martin Logan and KEF. Looked at the online reviews that included measurements for those. I’m leaning toward a choice between the Logan XT B100’s and the KEF R3 Metas. I’m aware the R3s measure flatter than the B100s, which have a somewhat elevated high freq response. I can very clearly hear that in A-B testing. But my 60-something ears have likely lost some high-freq sensitivity, so the B100s didn’t seem excessively bright to me, just a smidge brighter than ideal, whereas the R3s seemed a smidge to the mellow side. But I only auditioned them for maybe 40 min total between the two models, and I’ve learned here that a slightly bright speaker might become tiresome during extended listening. Fortunately, Best Buy and Crutchfield have generous return policies.

One thing I perceived that no reviewer mentioned is a very slight boxiness to vocals from the R3, by which I mean that voices sound as if the performer is singing from inside a box. It was a very subtle effect and only sounded that way for the first minute or so immediately after switching from the B100 to the R3 during song passages that were vocal segments with little music. My questions:
  1. Any ideas on what could account for the boxy-voice effect – psychoacoustic artifact of switching from a bright speaker to one with a flatter response, something wrong with the particular specimens I was demo’ing, bad demo room at Best Buy, old ears, etc.?
  2. Opinions on the B100 vs the R3 Meta for my use case?
  3. Other ideas for speaker selection? Budget is somewhat flexible, But I'd like to keep the size of the speaker to something not much taller than the R3.
 
Hey, welcome to ASR! I'm a KEF fan, so I'm biased, but I think between the two I'd go with the R3. KEF tends to have good vertical as well as horizontal directivity which make them friendlier to untreated rooms.

In this price range for passives you should also check out the ascend Sierra line, they test extremely well.

As for the boxy sound, it's probably a relative thing... The B100 has several dB more in the entire treble region. Often a neutral speaker will sound a little disappointing next to a hyped one.
 
Just choose what YOU like. ;) They will sound different in your room but ANY listening is better than relying on someone else's opinion.

"Brightness" can be tweaked with tone controls/EQ.

The "boxy" sound is probably also frequency response which can be tweaked with EQ but you'd probably need more-precise EQ. But from what you were saying, maybe it was in the recording.

The speakers will be driven by a high-quality integrated amp that can supply 200W per channel into any load with good headroom.

If you're not using an AVR with "bass management", integrating a subwoofer can be tricky. There are various solutions but an AVR is normally the easiest, most-straightforward, way to separate and re-route the bass to the sub.
 
Thanks for the responses, much appreciated.

I don't believe my integrated amp has the ability to apply internal crossover to separate the freq content sent to the mains vs the sub. I'll have to check that aspect of its functionality to be sure. The sub itself has an adjustable low pass feature, so I can at least adjust its own crossover point individually.
 
I brought home the Logans and put them up on the same bookshelf as my original speakers. The bookshelf is an open rack-style shelf, horizontal shelves supported by thin vertical posts on each of the 4 corners, but close to the wall.

In that location, the Logans were VERY boomy on the low end, almost certainly due to placement. The rear of the speakers are about 10 inches from the wall. Unfortunately, I don’t have much flexibility to change the placement, without wholesale rearranging of furniture along one wall in the living room.

I then applied a 70Hz low-cut filter via my AVR and the boominess was gone from most tracks, but still perceptible at a reduced level in music that has a lot of bass content. My original speakers (Quad Lites) also have rear facing ports but have no boominess. They produce much less bass to start with, and because they are physically smaller, their rear ports are farther from the wall, probably another 6 inches farther away. Going back and forth between the two speaker models in the same location, I was surprised how similar they sound from the mid-range through the highs.

So the Logans are going back and I’ll live with the Quads + a sub for now. My questions for those with firsthand experience:

I think a larger bookshelf speaker might give me a fuller sound in a large room compared to the small Quads. Would a larger bookshelf with a front facing port eliminate this boomy-bass wall effect? I see that ELAC, Focal and JBL all make bookshelf speakers with front facing ports. What about a speaker with a bottom port, such as several Sonus faber offerings? Lastly, if I’m going to be using a sub to cover the low end anyway, is there really any benefit to moving to a slightly larger bookshelf model, compared to my very small Quads? I like the sound quality of the Quads + sub, but if I can do better, then I’d like to do so. Most of my listening is at relatively modest levels, but I do crank it up every once in a while.
 
Would a larger bookshelf with a front facing port eliminate this boomy-bass wall effect? I
Probably not. The boom is a function of bass output and distance from the wall. Putting the port on the front might move the frequency of the boom a little but not enough to fix it. Room correction / EQ, or moving the speakers, is needed to really solve it.
is there really any benefit to moving to a slightly larger bookshelf model, compared to my very small Quads?
Yes if you're going to use DRC/EQ, not really if you're happy with the sound and not planning to EQ.

Multiple sources of bass can help you fill in dips due to room modes, but it's hard to get right without EQ.
 
Quads tend to be slightly lean on bass with maybe a slightly deep but roll off tune. At least from the older ones I've heard.
You could try searching for speakers with this kind of tuning. Maybe a sealed speaker.
Anything that has constant bass to 100Hz and below will likely set off room mode; ideally with notch filter you can reduce the main problem frequency to use any speaker there.
 
I brought home the Logans and put them up on the same bookshelf as my original speakers. The bookshelf is an open rack-style shelf, horizontal shelves supported by thin vertical posts on each of the 4 corners, but close to the wall.

In that location, the Logans were VERY boomy on the low end, almost certainly due to placement. The rear of the speakers are about 10 inches from the wall. Unfortunately, I don’t have much flexibility to change the placement, without wholesale rearranging of furniture along one wall in the living room.

I then applied a 70Hz low-cut filter via my AVR and the boominess was gone from most tracks, but still perceptible at a reduced level in music that has a lot of bass content. My original speakers (Quad Lites) also have rear facing ports but have no boominess. They produce much less bass to start with, and because they are physically smaller, their rear ports are farther from the wall, probably another 6 inches farther away. Going back and forth between the two speaker models in the same location, I was surprised how similar they sound from the mid-range through the highs.

So the Logans are going back and I’ll live with the Quads + a sub for now. My questions for those with firsthand experience:

I think a larger bookshelf speaker might give me a fuller sound in a large room compared to the small Quads. Would a larger bookshelf with a front facing port eliminate this boomy-bass wall effect? I see that ELAC, Focal and JBL all make bookshelf speakers with front facing ports. What about a speaker with a bottom port, such as several Sonus faber offerings? Lastly, if I’m going to be using a sub to cover the low end anyway, is there really any benefit to moving to a slightly larger bookshelf model, compared to my very small Quads? I like the sound quality of the Quads + sub, but if I can do better, then I’d like to do so. Most of my listening is at relatively modest levels, but I do crank it up every once in a while.
Before you take them back, try stuffing a couple towels in the rear ports and see if it makes a difference to the boominess. You'll lose some sensitivity but it could help with the problem, and literally takes five seconds to try.
 
Would a larger bookshelf with a front facing port eliminate this boomy-bass wall effect?
Probably not.

When you put speakers near a wall, it increases the bass output in comparison to having the speakers pulled out away from the wall. The increase is roughly 3dB if near a flat wall and roughly 6dB if near a corner. You can correct this with EQ, Dirac Live, etc.

If you don't want to mess with correcting the bass, some speakers (e.g., KEF R3 Meta) are designed with an extended bass shelf, which has lower bass output below about 100Hz or so. That works better when they are placed next to the wall, and thus should not sound as boomy.

EDIT: Here is a frequency response graph showing the extended bass shelf, provided by Erin's Audio Corner:

CEA2034 -- Kef R3 Meta.png
 
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These have following and thread on ASR as well as front port, better for close to the wall performance. Many comments about pros/cons.

Ditto on Ascend Acoustics
 
In the price range definitely try Linton's. Plug the port when crossing with sub. Use EQ! Froom is only one PEQ and depending of room length.
That is a good suggestion (EDIT: The Super Linton is better for being near the wall; the graphs below are for the Super Linton), assuming the shelf on which it is to be placed is the correct height to put the tweeter around ear level. The Super Linton also uses an extended bass shelf, but the regular Linton does not.

CEA2034 -- Wharfedale Super Linton.png


EDIT: You want the ears to be between the range of about -10 to +15 degrees of the tweeter height:

Wharfedale Super Linton_360_Vertical_Polar.png


Once again, the data is courtesy of Erin's Audio Corner.
 
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Here is a video from Erin covering the R3 Meta, the Super Linton, as well as some other speakers. It is well worth watching for anyone considering them:

 
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Fairly large for bookshelf speakers: Revival Atalante 3. Full and accurate sound.
 
Lots of good info in these replies, all of it appreciated. When I’m ready to change and rearrange the furniture, I’ll adopt stands or full-size floorstanders, but for now I’d like to take an intermediate step with some bookshelf speakers that I can place on the shelves I already have. That’s probably a 1-2 year deal, and then I’ll be in a better position to know what I really want when I take the next step and rearrange everything.

The shelves where I place these speakers are about 16 inches deep and have vertical posts on each corner. So I need to place the speakers far enough forward so the front baffle is even with the front of the shelf, which means the rear of most decently-sized bookshelf speakers will fall within a foot of the wall, but not right up against it. When I auditioned the R3s and Logans at BestBuy they were both right up against the wall and sounded good there, but my home arrangement doesn’t allow that.

I did try the suggestion of stuffing the ports on the Logans and it improved things further, but cutting out the lows via crossover and then cutting them some more with stuffed ports just brings me closer to sound of the quads I already have – clear and realistic mids, slightly "energetic” highs (which I like, up to a point), and little to no bass from the bookshelf speaker itself.

I’m waiting for my local hi-fi dealer to get some stock of the Gen 2 Eversolo A6, which I believe now has an EQ function. I’ll certainly play around with that once I have it. I might even bring in a consultant who can get me dialed in more quickly.
 
Thanks for the responses, much appreciated.

I don't believe my integrated amp has the ability to apply internal crossover to separate the freq content sent to the mains vs the sub. I'll have to check that aspect of its functionality to be sure. The sub itself has an adjustable low pass feature, so I can at least adjust its own crossover point individually.
Always best just to provide all the makes/models of gear involved....
 
The shelves where I place these speakers are about 16 inches deep and have vertical posts on each corner. So I need to place the speakers far enough forward so the front baffle is even with the front of the shelf, which means the rear of most decently-sized bookshelf speakers will fall within a foot of the wall, but not right up against it. When I auditioned the R3s and Logans at BestBuy they were both right up against the wall and sounded good there, but my home arrangement doesn’t allow that.
I'm not clear on this. The depth on the R3 Meta is 13.2" and on the Super Linton's is 13.0" That puts both of them within 3" of the wall, which is very good for them - you need a little room for the ports to breathe. You don't want to push the ports right up against the wall - they won't work properly.

That being said, if you like the speakers you have, except for the boominess, room correction and/or EQ probably is the way to go. That is what I would do.


I’m waiting for my local hi-fi dealer to get some stock of the Gen 2 Eversolo A6

The Eversolo is an excellent unit. The review below is for the original, not Gen 2:


If you are using RCA cables into your amplifier, another excellent streamer option is the WiiM Ultra ($329). It has room correction and EQ, a lot of input options, and a lot of output options. It is a fantastic unit, especially for the price. But, it does not have balanced XLR outputs, which the Eversolo has.

 
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Always best just to provide all the makes/models of gear involved....
Thanks, I did find the crossover function as mentioned in post #5. The amp is currently an older HT AVR, a Sony STR-DA2400ES. It was decent back in the day, but digital formats, sample rates and bit depth have advanced since then. I will be replacing it with a 2-channel integrated amp.
 
I'm not clear on this. The depth on the R3 Meta is 13.2" and on the Super Linton's is 13.0" That puts both of them within 3" of the wall, which is very good for them - you need a little room for the ports to breathe. You don't want to push the ports right up against the wall - they won't work properly.

That being said, if you like the speakers you have, except for the boominess, room correction and/or EQ probably is the way to go. That is what I would do.

The Eversolo is an excellent unit. The review below is for the original, not Gen 2:


If you are using RCA cables into your amplifier, another excellent streamer option is the WiiM Ultra ($329). It has room correction and EQ, a lot of input options, and a lot of output options. It is a fantastic unit, especially for the price. But, it does not have balanced XLR outputs, which the Eversolo has.

Thanks for the suggestions. The bookshelves are actually more like equipment stands and they are not placed right against the wall. There is a gap of a few inches. Plus, the Logans are not as deep as the R3's (my second choice). It's possible they may have fared better because their ports would have been a bit closer to the wall and because of their low-freq shoulder/roll off. The salesman told me the R3's do fine close to the wall, but they need to be closer than the 8-9 gap I probably would have had with them.
 
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