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Bike Advice

Leporello

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You should move onto 25c tyres and even 28c tyres (if it will fit your bike frame) if you have bad roads where you ride. They make a far, far greater difference (at appropriate tyre pressures) than any other bike component in terms of riding comfort for bad surfaces. And yes, quality latex tubes make a difference in ride comfort too, just that they are a hassle as most don't hold pressure (+/- 10psi) for more than 12 hours.
I moved from Conti 4000 23c to Conti 4000 25c and the improvement was quite noticeable. Too bad my bike frame will not take any wider.
 

dasdoing

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I don't know why the data is unconvincing to you.

they are just not cientific/transparent enough (e.g. what where the exact positions and circumstaces?)...and also I wont study this subject further because it is not realy relevant to me cause I can't use a recumbant


I have seen tests where 28c tires have very slightly lower rolling resistance than thinner tires except on very, very smooth concrete. Rough concrete, asphalt and other common road surfaces the wider tire is actually also lower in rolling resistance. So why not also get the ride comfort at the same time.


We feel the ultimate test is adjusting all tires to the same comfort level. When all tires are adjusted to the same comfort level, rolling resistance is nearly the same (0.2 watts max) for all sizes of the GP 5000. We now feel picking the right size tire is more a matter of looking at what level of comfort (and grip) is required. At some point, a smaller tire isn't able to provide the same comfort level (and grip) as its bigger counterpart because it will start bottoming out. If you want to go as fast as possible, choose your required comfort level and pick the smallest tire that can provide that comfort for you.
 

dasdoing

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I moved from Conti 4000 23c to Conti 4000 25c and the improvement was quite noticeable. Too bad my bike frame will not take any wider.

the conti 25mm 4000 is actualy around 26mm inflated. I have it at the rear. I have the 25mm 5000 on the front and it is close to 25mm.
I also can't fit anything wider, but after seeing the link mentioned above I realized 25mm is perfect for me
 

Sonny1

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I have seen tests where 28c tires have very slightly lower rolling resistance than thinner tires except on very, very smooth concrete. Rough concrete, asphalt and other common road surfaces the wider tire is actually also lower in rolling resistance. So why not also get the ride comfort at the same time.

Any of you guys ride tubeless tires and rims? I have them on one bike and they are very, very nice vs tubed tires of a similar type.

Yep, I agree with you. Also, not all manufacturer’s measurements are the same. Like shoe sizes, some are true to size but some are a bit less. I like Conti in general and plan to switch to larger sizes. My bike should accommodate 28mm+ tires. As stated, they have rolling resistance as good as or better than skinnier tires and you can run lower psi without pinch flats. I’ve read things about increased wind resistance/aerodynamics and the larger tires are a bit heavier but in my experience the trading of well worth it because the larger tires are much more comfortable. Also, if your rims are too narrow, you may experience poor handing (cornering) if you too too big on the tire width because a wider tire will bulge out too much from the narrow rim. This is only a problem if you go too big, have very narrow rims and if you do a lot of high speed cornering. Casual cyclists will probably not notice, but they will notice the improved comfort bigger tires can provide. When I wear out my old stock or 23’s, I’m moving up and not looking back.
 

Willem

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As I said before, most of my riding other than commuting and shopping is on my custom tourer with 55 mm tyres (nominally but as with most tyres they are a bit narrower in real life). I also have a 'fast' bike and for that I switched to a cyclo cross bike with fast 35 mm tyres. This is the practical alternative to full out road bikes and is not only far more comfortable but also more fun as it allows me to include mild trails as well.
 
D

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Been able to ride my swisstrailbell equipped MTB until this Christmas, now too much snow on the trails. Anyone for Bike Transalp 2021?

1612107909781.jpeg
 

MRC01

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... Any of you guys ride tubeless tires and rims? I have them on one bike and they are very, very nice vs tubed tires of a similar type.
My MTB is tubeless, the first and only such bike I own. It's a carbon frame dual suspension with carbon wheels. Tubeless tires are great for trails, I've only gotten 1 flat in 5 years and thousands of miles of riding this bike on adverse terrain across WA, UT, CO and CA. And that flat was with lightweight gravel tires (Schwalbe G-One allround). It's never flatted with the knobby tires I usually have on those wheels.

However, I'm less keen on tubeless for road bikes. From what I've read, the standards for rims & tires aren't as consistent across manufacturers as they are for MTB. So you must be careful to match the tires to the rim. And once you add the sealant fluid, how much better performance do they really have?
 

MRC01

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... You should move onto 25c tyres and even 28c tyres (if it will fit your bike frame) if you have bad roads where you ride. ...
The prior tires I had on it were 700x25, Vittoria Corsa G+ 2.0 graphene. Those were nice tires, but these 700x23 Conti GP5000 roll faster, corner better, and smoother. And they are more durable, fewer flats. Of course, the improved speed and handling that's not necessarily because they're a little thinner, it could be because of the construction or tread.

The quotation above about tire size & rolling resistance has a critical proviso: "When all tires are adjusted to the same comfort level...". That means they're running the skinnier tires below recommended pressures, making it an unfair comparison. A fatter tire at the same pressure as a skinny one withstands more overall force (PSI * area), which means less deflection, which means less rolling resistance (and the reverse - the skinny one has more deflection, higher resistance). And it also means a harder/firmer ride for the same reason. A more fair test is to run each tire at its recommended pressure, in which case the thinner tires are slightly more efficient. That report also shows that if you run the tires at the same "comfort level", they're about the same, though the skinny tires are slightly more efficient. Anyway, when I wear out these 700x23 I will try the 25 or 28 width, if they really do have the same rolling resistance, wider rubber means they'll probably corner better.

The final conclusion at the end of that article makes sense: If you want to go as fast as possible, choose your required comfort level and pick the smallest tire that can provide that comfort for you.

On the tandem I run 700x28, but that's because it just tears up anything smaller due to its higher weight and increased tire forces.

Regarding the latex tubes, the pressure loss is not a factor because pressure is so important, I check & pump the tires for every ride, every day. In 24 hours they lose about 10% of their pressure.
 
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Sonny1

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I wonder that too. Shimano gear may be technically better but is has no soul. And what is cycling without soul?

I really admire the beauty of Campy and it kills me to see so many super cool Colnago, vintage Bianchi and Willier bikes with Shimano group set. That said, Shimano works well and is cheaper for comparable performance. For me, someday I will own a classic Italian race bike and it will be equipped with Campy. Not because I think it’s better, but because it just seems wrong to put SRAM or Shimano on a classic Italian beauty. I recently tested an American made steel bike with full Record fr a decade ago and I loved the look and feel of the shifters and brakes. The frame was a bit small and way too aggressive for me and I had to pass. Someday!

I’ve put more miles on my SRAM Red set and have to say, i love the mechanical precision and the single lever shifting mechanism. It’s so intuitive and quick shifting but I could live with any of the big three. If I bought a bike with any top group set, I would not swap it out. They all seem to work well enough but I’m more comfortable adjusting my SRAM stuff because I’ve owned it for so long.
 

Sonny1

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I had a recumbent. I could never build whatever muscle it is you need to climb hills as well on one. Too many hills where I live for that. On flat terrain they were faster, more comfortable and good. People kept saying I'd manage to climb hills, but after a couple years I gave up. The other factor is while I try to ride where there are no cars, you can't always do that and the higher position of a diamond frame felt more safe to me around traffic on the road. In flatter terrain that also may have been less of a problem. Finally, at least the one I had being longer was more difficult for me to transport to various places to ride.

It scares me when I see recumbent riders in the city. I was in Paris one time and saw a rider on a strange looking recumbent cycle riding around town in traffic. He had a cool shell around the bike and it was low to the ground. The rider seemed fearless as he navigated traffic and was going very fast. Years later, I still recall how shocked I was to see it. In my riding groups, I’ve only seen traditional bikes. Unless I come down with a medical problem, I’m sticking with a traditional bike. I love the looks, feel and better visibility of a traditional bike. Even with the higher rising position, I’ve had way too many close calls with cars...too many distracted drivers.
 

Sonny1

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Here is my newest ride, from 2003. Reynolds 853 steel. I swapped out the stem and bars for more modern, better fitting options and swapped out the old Octalink BB and crankset for a more modern external BB with Shimano crankset. It’s lighter and stiffer but I could have lived with the old stuff. Was happy to see the old BB was like new when I took it out and the old bearings were smooth and perfect. Almost 20 years old and probably never serviced! I’ve got a NOS Fizik Aerion saddle that I’m going to put on the bike but the existing Selle Italia fits me well and looks old school on the bike. It’s on the trainer as I fiddle with the fit. Can’t wait to ride this one outside!

Tried to load more pix but they are too large. The original bars were old school shape, small diameter and the old stem was way too long. Looked cool like an old pro but I don’t have that kind of flexibility these days.
 

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Willem

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Nice bike. I love my 853 steel bike as well. You may well regret the new cranks with external bearings. The bearings are quite badly exposed and the balls are much smaller and hence not nearly as durable. And is they go and you are slow to replace the bearings you will have destroyed the cranks. Yes, the construction is lighter and stiffer but not very durable.
 

Sonny1

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Nice bike. I love my 853 steel bike as well. You may well regret the new cranks with external bearings. The bearings are quite badly exposed and the balls are much smaller and hence not nearly as durable. And is they go and you are slow to replace the bearings you will have destroyed the cranks. Yes, the construction is lighter and stiffer but not very durable.

All of my other bikes have external BB’s and I have never had a problem. I’m keeping the old crankset and BB and will swap it out if anything happens. My MTB had external BB and I ride through mud and crap all the time without any issues. Plus they are cheap and easy to replace. My ‘08 bike still has SRAM external BB from ‘09 and I have thousands of miles on the original BB. Thanks for the suggestion, I’ll keep an eye on things.
 

Judas

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Nordictract Commercial R35 $1,799
nov20-R35-NTEX14921_gallery_2_lg-2x-21537.jpg
 

Willem

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I have never had a problem
Sample size is the inevitable problem with such issues. I have seen quite a few with my cycle touring friends, so they have now largely abondoned external bottom brackets and returned to the traditional square taper. But maybe that is a more demanding use case. I hope you will not be disappointed - enjoy this lovely bike.
 

Willem

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I don't remember if I have posted a picture of my own bike. I just tried but the file was too large, so I will have to reduce that later. The frame is custom made (made to measure) fillet brazed from mostly Reynolds 853 double butted extra oversized 0.5 mm. Wheel size 26 inch with clearance for 55 mm tyres. The other specifications are:
14 speed Rohloff hub
Schmidt hub generator and headlight
TA Zephyr cranks
Magura hydraulic rim brakes for drop bar
Nitto rear rack and B136 handle bar (I also have a front rack for the now very rare occasion that I have more luggage)
 

Count Arthur

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I have seen tests where 28c tires have very slightly lower rolling resistance than thinner tires except on very, very smooth concrete. Rough concrete, asphalt and other common road surfaces the wider tire is actually also lower in rolling resistance. So why not also get the ride comfort at the same time.

Any of you guys ride tubeless tires and rims? I have them on one bike and they are very, very nice vs tubed tires of a similar type.

I've gone tubeless on my gravel bike, Schwalbe G-ONE Allround 700x40c which I run at about 40psi, which is pretty comfortable on the rough country lanes where I live. As an added bonus, I haven't had to fix a puncture in about 700 miles and counting.

I really don't like having to fix puncture, so on my old MTB that I use as my "shopping bike", I have some Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres. They're totally bomb proof; I reckon I've done somewhere around 2,000 miles on those and have yet to get a puncture. The only downside is that each 26x1.75" tyre weighs just shy of a kilo. :oops:

Regarding indoor training, I have an inexpensive "turbo trainer", but I didn't really get on with it, but you might want to look into smart trainers that work with Zwift: https://www.zwift.com/uk

Also, GCN has a series of training videos on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/c/GCNTraining/videos
 

Tks

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If you want to sit low with your legs forward consider a rowing machine as it gives a full body workout.


Been thinking about this, got any quality ones? I heard long ago there are two main types, or was it three?
 
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