Big news coming from Sound United in 2023!

[wseroyer]

What are you talking about? What test, review can you offer as proof?
Amir measured three marantz AVPs and found worse SINAD then Denon counterparts, but not half of the frequency response chopped!
Worse SINAD is not the same as FR and the audibility of it is questionable. We have no double blind tests of Denon and Marantz AV devices that I know of.
So, please, if you have some information on a test which shows FR audible issues, list it.
Thank you

https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?attachments/marantz-sr6014-avr-home-theater-hdmi-2-in-8-out-frequency-response-audio-measurements-png.72611/

They have a 10k roll off filter on the Marantz sr6014 aka the Denon AVR - x3600h.

 

[wseroyer]

So what does this mean? Did they use a older HDMI controler? If so, Do we know the difference between the old and new? Could it be that HDMi did changes from 2.1 to HDMI 2.1a and thats what they mean?

I still dont understand why they dont write that it has this, even Marantz have not written QMS support.

Highly confusing I must say...

Quick Media Switching just means that you won't get a blank screen for a second when your switching inputs, it's not really a big deal.

 

[wseroyer]

Can someone explan this to me, the Q&A someone is asking about turning off the internal amps and they say no:

AVR-X3800H | Home Theater Receiver

The Denon AVR-X3800H is a 9.4 Ch. 105W AV receiver for home theater enthusiasts with Dolby Atmos, 8K Ultra HD, DTS:X, and HEOS® Built-in streaming.

www.denon.com

But the manual mention something about the individual control?

Connecting an external power amplifier AVR-X3800H

manuals.denon.com

These new 11 channel speaker layouts are very interesting, not sure if, I'd want to give up my surround back channels, but very cool that they allow for this.

Dolby 5.1.6

Auro 11.1

 

[Chromatischism]

FedEx finally delivered my new 3800H, so I immediately unpacked it, installed it and performed the initial setup. Here are my first impressions, after just a few hours of playing with it:

Welcome aboard. Please accept some advice from a long-time Denon and Audyssey user.

- The display is an old style fluorescent instead of LED or LCD, so I am not sure about its durability.

They last a very long time. I have never even heard of a defective screen.

- The Audyssey MultEQ XT32 requires a min. of 3 measurements in different listening positions, which does not make much sense (an HT with just one chair instead of a wider sofa should also be supported with just 1 measurement). The cardboard mic stand does the job, but it is somewhat flimsy and susceptible to be toppled. (I do appreciate the "greenness" of it, though.)

The microphone positions tell Audyssey about the acoustics of the space, which is how it learns what to adjust and what not to adjust. Always use 8 positions. For one sweet spot, keep them all within a foot of your head. Modern room correction technology doesn't work on single measurements. You may attach the mic to a boom mic stand for better positioning.

- Audyssey-determined crossover frequencies are too high. My center channel and surround speakers are THX certified, so they all perform adequately down to exactly 80 Hz. But Audyssey set the center crossover at 120 Hz and, strangely, the surround (speakers much smaller than the 3-way center one) at a lower 110 Hz.

These are arrived at based on the -3 dB point seen in your measurements. If it sets them higher than you expect, there is something about the positioning or acoustics of your space that is causing a loss of output there and it is affecting the detected roll-off of your speakers. You may set it lower, but know that Audyssey is not making correction filters for anything below that point. It is best to find what is causing the problem and address it so you get recommended crossover values closer to where you expect them to be.

- I do not have a subwoofer in my setup because my L/R front speakers easily reproduce low frequencies down to 24 Hz. So far, I have not been able to find an explicit setting (which exists on the A6A) to direct the LFE channel to those speakers, although Audyssey correctly determined them to be "large."

If you want to direct the LFE to the speakers, use "LFE + Main" in the Bass menu. However, I strongly recommend you to buy a capable subwoofer, even if your main speakers are capable of 1 Hz. There are many reasons for that, but the biggest ones are that your surround speakers will have no where to send their bass to and certainly are not capable full-range (and there is full-range content in all channels in modern immersive audio formats), and secondly that you can't place your main speakers optimally for bass. So you live with lower-quality bass from your front speakers and no real bass at all from your surrounds.

The LFE can be redirected as stated above, but that does NOT redirect bass below the crossover from your other speakers. That requires bass management to be enabled (speakers set to Small) and a subwoofer.

- The corrections Audyssey set for the L/R front speaker are rather unacceptable (bass is largely gone), so I had to immediately switch to "front L/R bypass mode."

Audyssey flattens your bass by correcting peaks and dips. It is up to you to set bass levels where you see fit. Turn on Dynamic EQ as that is the expected mode of operation with the Audyssey Reference curve. You'll lose a lot of bass without it. L/R bypass mode shouldn't even exist.

- The corrections Audyssey set for the L/R front speaker are rather unacceptable (bass is largely gone), so I had to immediately switch to "front L/R bypass mode." However, the setup screen where this can be performed is only accessible when the input is a BD player. When the input is the TV connected via HDMI/eARC (on which the apps to stream Netflix, HBO and Amazon Video run), it is not possible to enter the setup mode on the TV screen. The only option available is to select a "Home Theater" (AVR) source on the TV, which then only shows Audio Inputs (which can be selected), but not any settings. So while streaming Dolby Surround movies from those TV apps, I was only able to access settings on the AVR's display.

This is probably because you are using eARC? The Denon needs to be the source to display the OSD. If you are using the TV as the source, the Denon is not in control of the display.

- The bass leaves a lot to be desired. When listening to CD music from the BD play, it is barely OK. But in action movies, it is quite lacking (e.g. I tried the last episode of The Expanse on Netflix, which has quite a few chest-pounding space explosions; they were kind of there but not really). My L/R front speakers have a sensitivity of 90 dB, nominal impedance of 8 Ohms and lowest impedance of 5 Ohms, so they do not present an overly difficult load on the amps. Even my 23-yo Yamaha receiver appears to have more low-frequency current oomph than this 3800H. Also, at low volumes the bass is quite weak; the volume needs to be cranked up for it to appear, which is a no-go for my nighttime listening (this was also noted in Robinson's review of the 3700H, not that I watch his videos frequently).

Did you turn on Dynamic EQ?

- The 3800H temp seems OK in stereo listening, but once I played multi-channel movies (at low to moderate volume), it got quite hot. It has got a lot of vents on the sides of the enclosure, not just at the top, most likely for that very reason. This model has a clear secondary function as a space heater, which would certainly come handy in colder months, but in the warmer season it is an additional burden on the A/C. Excessive heat also reduces reliability.

They do run hot. I use an NCore amp for my front speakers and engage Eco mode and it drops the temps a lot. Others buy fans, but that hasn't been necessary for me. If you're in a warm climate without much A/C, I would put a fan on the top sucking out. Air will be drawn in from the sides.

- So the lows are lacking, what about the highs? To my ears, they are OK but a bit "unclear." I plan to try some full-range reference recordings from Amazon Music HD and report more on that.

I don't know what speakers you have or how well-setup and symmetrical your system is, but I recommend at least buying the $20 app and experimenting with limiting the corrections to varying frequencies like 500 Hz or 1000 Hz. I have excellent speakers in a symmetrical room with equal walls on both sides and they sound a lot better with EQ up to 400 Hz and not higher. The main reason is that the default Audyssey curve isn't ideal and I'm too lazy to make my own. But you really want the bass corrections, so don't use L/R Bypass mode, which was only put there to give people "options", but it's not a good one.

 

[GXAlan]

I don't know what speakers you have or how well-setup and symmetrical your system is, but I recommend at least buying the $20 app and experimenting with limiting the corrections to varying frequencies like 500 Hz or 1000 Hz.

The other benefit of the $20 app is turning off the mid range dip in Audyssey and seeing what it measures.

 

[Karls_speaker_works]

If you're in a warm climate without much A/C, I would put a fan on the top sucking out. Air will be drawn in from the sides.

This unit has fans below the heatsinks, obviously an external fan shouldn't hurt, but I'd like to see some thermal measurements before/after.

 

[HarmonicTHD]

FedEx finally delivered my new 3800H, so I immediately unpacked it, installed it and performed the initial setup. Here are my first impressions, after just a few hours of playing with it:
- It is lighter and not as deep as the Yamaha RX-A6A (which I evaluated back in the spring), so easier to set up and make connections at the back.
- I thought that unlike the A6A plastic front panel, the 3800H's one will be made of aluminum, but that does not appear to be the case. Also, I expected a tilting lower front plate to hide additional controls, but there is none. However, unlike in the A6A there is no plastic panel at the top (prone to scratching, even at the factory), which is a good thing.
- The display is an old style fluorescent instead of LED or LCD, so I am not sure about its durability.
- I followed the setup procedure to the letter. One thing that really surprised me was that it required the user to connect speakers to the AVR when powered on (!).
- The Audyssey MultEQ XT32 requires a min. of 3 measurements in different listening positions, which does not make much sense (an HT with just one chair instead of a wider sofa should also be supported with just 1 measurement). The cardboard mic stand does the job, but it is somewhat flimsy and susceptible to be toppled. (I do appreciate the "greenness" of it, though.)
- Audyssey-determined crossover frequencies are too high. My center channel and surround speakers are THX certified, so they all perform adequately down to exactly 80 Hz. But Audyssey set the center crossover at 120 Hz and, strangely, the surround (speakers much smaller than the 3-way center one) at a lower 110 Hz.
- I do not have a subwoofer in my setup because my L/R front speakers easily reproduce low frequencies down to 24 Hz. So far, I have not been able to find an explicit setting (which exists on the A6A) to direct the LFE channel to those speakers, although Audyssey correctly determined them to be "large."
- The corrections Audyssey set for the L/R front speaker are rather unacceptable (bass is largely gone), so I had to immediately switch to "front L/R bypass mode." However, the setup screen where this can be performed is only accessible when the input is a BD player. When the input is the TV connected via HDMI/eARC (on which the apps to stream Netflix, HBO and Amazon Video run), it is not possible to enter the setup mode on the TV screen. The only option available is to select a "Home Theater" (AVR) source on the TV, which then only shows Audio Inputs (which can be selected), but not any settings. So while streaming Dolby Surround movies from those TV apps, I was only able to access settings on the AVR's display. I was able to set Audyssey to "front L/R bypass mode" for the TV source as well, but I am not sure if I messed up some other settings, since there this one-line navigation is very limiting. (As I recall, there was no such limitation on the A6A, which made it possible to use a full-screen setup even if the source was the TV.)
- The bass leaves a lot to be desired. When listening to CD music from the BD play, it is barely OK. But in action movies, it is quite lacking (e.g. I tried the last episode of The Expanse on Netflix, which has quite a few chest-pounding space explosions; they were kind of there but not really). My L/R front speakers have a sensitivity of 90 dB, nominal impedance of 8 Ohms and lowest impedance of 5 Ohms, so they do not present an overly difficult load on the amps. Even my 23-yo Yamaha receiver appears to have more low-frequency current oomph than this 3800H. Also, at low volumes the bass is quite weak; the volume needs to be cranked up for it to appear, which is a no-go for my nighttime listening (this was also noted in Robinson's review of the 3700H, not that I watch his videos frequently).
- The 3800H temp seems OK in stereo listening, but once I played multi-channel movies (at low to moderate volume), it got quite hot. It has got a lot of vents on the sides of the enclosure, not just at the top, most likely for that very reason. This model has a clear secondary function as a space heater, which would certainly come handy in colder months, but in the warmer season it is an additional burden on the A/C. Excessive heat also reduces reliability.
- So the lows are lacking, what about the highs? To my ears, they are OK but a bit "unclear." I plan to try some full-range reference recordings from Amazon Music HD and report more on that.
Edit:
- The ECO mode defaults to Auto, which causes a switch (with audible relay clicking) of the power amps to higher voltage rails once the volume is increased to roughly 55 dB (on the default scale of 0-98 dB). I observed no difference in bass when ECO is set to Off (which, presumably, causes the higher voltage rails to be used all the time). There is a slider graph which shows relative power consumption, which will come handy to estimate the max. power consumption once I get the power meter.

Overall, I have to say I am not initially impressed. This is my first hands-on encounter with a D/M product, so I may likely not know all the setup tricks, but still... Any tips on how to overcome the above problems are welcome.

Chromatism is 100% correct.

One additional comment. The crossover frequency are also set correctly. The smaller the speaker the less their low frequency capabilities and therefore the higher the crossover. Eg from roughly 110Hz on, your mains will play bass of the surround channels.

Simply speaking, Audyssey reduces mainly the resonance and therefore distortions caused by your room. If you are used to those you might perceive those as a reduction of bass. But now the bass is cleaner. (Search for Room Modes or Room EQ in this forum for more details).

And yes definitely use as many as possible measuring positions. Ideally 8. It is vital to get the best results. Keep the distance between the positions btw about 20 to 30cm.

I and many others here verified the Audyssey results with REW and it does a good job. In my case also including my two subs.

 

[polmuaddib]

They have a 10k roll off filter on the Marantz sr6014 aka the Denon AVR - x3600h.

It starts rolling off at 10k and gets about 3db down when it gets to 20k. It is a poor filter to use, I agree. Denon has better filters.
But that is not HALF of spectrum down. The audibility of this filter is questionable. It gets only 0.5 db at 15 khz.
If you had Denon and Marantz playing music side by side, I don't believe you could tell them apart, based only on that filter.
If you played white noise, you could, maybe.
The way it's been said makes it like that the attenuation is 60db after 10k.

 

[Masza]

I think without subwoofer the only option for the front L&R size in the settings is large. Then the AVR redirects LFE and bass below crossover of the speakers set to small to the front L&R.

Audyssey MultEQ editor mobile app is okay if you wan't to alter the characteristics of the correction. It's like 20 € or something. If bass is lacking I'd vote for the use of Dynamic EQ as well.

 

[Chromatischism]

Eg from roughly 110Hz on, your mains will play bass of the surround channels.

Am I wrong on that part? I thought it would only send the LFE to the main speakers but not bass manage the other channels to the front L/R.

Simply speaking, Audyssey reduces mainly the resonance and therefore distortions caused by your room. If you are used to those you might perceive those as a reduction of bass. But now the bass is cleaner.

This is so true. You'll find that you can turn up the bass much higher than before and it's not offensive at all. It gets addicting.

 

[HarmonicTHD]

Am I wrong on that part? I thought it would only send the LFE to the main speakers but not bass manage the other channels to the front L/R.


This is so true. You'll find that you can turn up the bass much higher than before and it's not offensive at all. It gets addicting.

Mmhhh. My REW measurements I did some 9 months back. So I am not 100% certain at this point in time. I remember that once Audyssey was applied the other speakers seemed to get high passed and the lower frequency redirected to my subs. As this would make sense as eg the smaller satellites can’t reproduce the low frequencies. (However there is also a menu option to influence this behavior). But again I am quoting from memory.

 

[Chromatischism]

Just to be clear, you use LFE+Main?

 

[hmt]

FedEx finally delivered my new 3800H, so I immediately unpacked it, installed it and performed the initial setup. Here are my first impressions, after just a few hours of playing with it:
- It is lighter and not as deep as the Yamaha RX-A6A (which I evaluated back in the spring), so easier to set up and make connections at the back.
- I thought that unlike the A6A plastic front panel, the 3800H's one will be made of aluminum, but that does not appear to be the case. Also, I expected a tilting lower front plate to hide additional controls, but there is none. However, unlike in the A6A there is no plastic panel at the top (prone to scratching, even at the factory), which is a good thing.
- The display is an old style fluorescent instead of LED or LCD, so I am not sure about its durability.
- I followed the setup procedure to the letter. One thing that really surprised me was that it required the user to connect speakers to the AVR when powered on (!).
- The Audyssey MultEQ XT32 requires a min. of 3 measurements in different listening positions, which does not make much sense (an HT with just one chair instead of a wider sofa should also be supported with just 1 measurement). The cardboard mic stand does the job, but it is somewhat flimsy and susceptible to be toppled. (I do appreciate the "greenness" of it, though.)
- Audyssey-determined crossover frequencies are too high. My center channel and surround speakers are THX certified, so they all perform adequately down to exactly 80 Hz. But Audyssey set the center crossover at 120 Hz and, strangely, the surround (speakers much smaller than the 3-way center one) at a lower 110 Hz.
- I do not have a subwoofer in my setup because my L/R front speakers easily reproduce low frequencies down to 24 Hz. So far, I have not been able to find an explicit setting (which exists on the A6A) to direct the LFE channel to those speakers, although Audyssey correctly determined them to be "large."
- The corrections Audyssey set for the L/R front speaker are rather unacceptable (bass is largely gone), so I had to immediately switch to "front L/R bypass mode." However, the setup screen where this can be performed is only accessible when the input is a BD player. When the input is the TV connected via HDMI/eARC (on which the apps to stream Netflix, HBO and Amazon Video run), it is not possible to enter the setup mode on the TV screen. The only option available is to select a "Home Theater" (AVR) source on the TV, which then only shows Audio Inputs (which can be selected), but not any settings. So while streaming Dolby Surround movies from those TV apps, I was only able to access settings on the AVR's display. I was able to set Audyssey to "front L/R bypass mode" for the TV source as well, but I am not sure if I messed up some other settings, since there this one-line navigation is very limiting. (As I recall, there was no such limitation on the A6A, which made it possible to use a full-screen setup even if the source was the TV.)
- The bass leaves a lot to be desired. When listening to CD music from the BD play, it is barely OK. But in action movies, it is quite lacking (e.g. I tried the last episode of The Expanse on Netflix, which has quite a few chest-pounding space explosions; they were kind of there but not really). My L/R front speakers have a sensitivity of 90 dB, nominal impedance of 8 Ohms and lowest impedance of 5 Ohms, so they do not present an overly difficult load on the amps. Even my 23-yo Yamaha receiver appears to have more low-frequency current oomph than this 3800H. Also, at low volumes the bass is quite weak; the volume needs to be cranked up for it to appear, which is a no-go for my nighttime listening (this was also noted in Robinson's review of the 3700H, not that I watch his videos frequently).
- The 3800H temp seems OK in stereo listening, but once I played multi-channel movies (at low to moderate volume), it got quite hot. It has got a lot of vents on the sides of the enclosure, not just at the top, most likely for that very reason. This model has a clear secondary function as a space heater, which would certainly come handy in colder months, but in the warmer season it is an additional burden on the A/C. Excessive heat also reduces reliability.
- So the lows are lacking, what about the highs? To my ears, they are OK but a bit "unclear." I plan to try some full-range reference recordings from Amazon Music HD and report more on that.
Edit:
- The ECO mode defaults to Auto, which causes a switch (with audible relay clicking) of the power amps to higher voltage rails once the volume is increased to roughly 55 dB (on the default scale of 0-98 dB). I observed no difference in bass when ECO is set to Off (which, presumably, causes the higher voltage rails to be used all the time). There is a slider graph which shows relative power consumption, which will come handy to estimate the max. power consumption once I get the power meter.

Overall, I have to say I am not initially impressed. This is my first hands-on encounter with a D/M product, so I may likely not know all the setup tricks, but still... Any tips on how to overcome the above problems are welcome.

You should download the MultiEq App and setup a proper target curve.

 

[KMO]

The LFE can be redirected as stated above, but that does NOT redirect bass below the crossover from your other speakers. That requires bass management to be enabled (speakers set to Small) and a subwoofer.

I'm uncertain about the redirection of LFE to mains, but the other point is wrong. If you have no subwoofer, the L+R speakers must be set to Large (there is no crossover for them). Other speakers can still be Small, and then they crossover and send bass to the front L+R.

 

[-Matt-]

If you select subwoofer as none can you still select LFE+main or do those subwoofer options go away?

My understanding was that this option was for when you do have a subwoofer only, and it means that any LFE channel information and any bass managed signal below the crossover for small speakers would be duplicated on the mains and the subwoofer. (Giving double bass and therefore not recommended). If that interpretation is correct then the option makes no sense if there isn't even a subwoofer. If you choose the default LFE only then the LFE signal and the bass managed signal from small speakers only go to the sub (recommended).

If you don't have a sub (could be why bass is lacking) you should just have subwoofer set to none and the LFE and bass managed signals from other small speakers will go to the LR which will be forced to large.

 

[-Matt-]

FedEx finally delivered my new 3800H, so I immediately unpacked it, installed it and performed the initial setup. Here are my first impressions, after just a few hours of playing with it:
- It is lighter and not as deep as the Yamaha RX-A6A (which I evaluated back in the spring), so easier to set up and make connections at the back.
- I thought that unlike the A6A plastic front panel, the 3800H's one will be made of aluminum, but that does not appear to be the case. Also, I expected a tilting lower front plate to hide additional controls, but there is none. However, unlike in the A6A there is no plastic panel at the top (prone to scratching, even at the factory), which is a good thing.
- The display is an old style fluorescent instead of LED or LCD, so I am not sure about its durability.
- I followed the setup procedure to the letter. One thing that really surprised me was that it required the user to connect speakers to the AVR when powered on (!).
- The Audyssey MultEQ XT32 requires a min. of 3 measurements in different listening positions, which does not make much sense (an HT with just one chair instead of a wider sofa should also be supported with just 1 measurement). The cardboard mic stand does the job, but it is somewhat flimsy and susceptible to be toppled. (I do appreciate the "greenness" of it, though.)
- Audyssey-determined crossover frequencies are too high. My center channel and surround speakers are THX certified, so they all perform adequately down to exactly 80 Hz. But Audyssey set the center crossover at 120 Hz and, strangely, the surround (speakers much smaller than the 3-way center one) at a lower 110 Hz.
- I do not have a subwoofer in my setup because my L/R front speakers easily reproduce low frequencies down to 24 Hz. So far, I have not been able to find an explicit setting (which exists on the A6A) to direct the LFE channel to those speakers, although Audyssey correctly determined them to be "large."
- The corrections Audyssey set for the L/R front speaker are rather unacceptable (bass is largely gone), so I had to immediately switch to "front L/R bypass mode." However, the setup screen where this can be performed is only accessible when the input is a BD player. When the input is the TV connected via HDMI/eARC (on which the apps to stream Netflix, HBO and Amazon Video run), it is not possible to enter the setup mode on the TV screen. The only option available is to select a "Home Theater" (AVR) source on the TV, which then only shows Audio Inputs (which can be selected), but not any settings. So while streaming Dolby Surround movies from those TV apps, I was only able to access settings on the AVR's display. I was able to set Audyssey to "front L/R bypass mode" for the TV source as well, but I am not sure if I messed up some other settings, since there this one-line navigation is very limiting. (As I recall, there was no such limitation on the A6A, which made it possible to use a full-screen setup even if the source was the TV.)
- The bass leaves a lot to be desired. When listening to CD music from the BD play, it is barely OK. But in action movies, it is quite lacking (e.g. I tried the last episode of The Expanse on Netflix, which has quite a few chest-pounding space explosions; they were kind of there but not really). My L/R front speakers have a sensitivity of 90 dB, nominal impedance of 8 Ohms and lowest impedance of 5 Ohms, so they do not present an overly difficult load on the amps. Even my 23-yo Yamaha receiver appears to have more low-frequency current oomph than this 3800H. Also, at low volumes the bass is quite weak; the volume needs to be cranked up for it to appear, which is a no-go for my nighttime listening (this was also noted in Robinson's review of the 3700H, not that I watch his videos frequently).
- The 3800H temp seems OK in stereo listening, but once I played multi-channel movies (at low to moderate volume), it got quite hot. It has got a lot of vents on the sides of the enclosure, not just at the top, most likely for that very reason. This model has a clear secondary function as a space heater, which would certainly come handy in colder months, but in the warmer season it is an additional burden on the A/C. Excessive heat also reduces reliability.
- So the lows are lacking, what about the highs? To my ears, they are OK but a bit "unclear." I plan to try some full-range reference recordings from Amazon Music HD and report more on that.
Edit:
- The ECO mode defaults to Auto, which causes a switch (with audible relay clicking) of the power amps to higher voltage rails once the volume is increased to roughly 55 dB (on the default scale of 0-98 dB). I observed no difference in bass when ECO is set to Off (which, presumably, causes the higher voltage rails to be used all the time). There is a slider graph which shows relative power consumption, which will come handy to estimate the max. power consumption once I get the power meter.

Overall, I have to say I am not initially impressed. This is my first hands-on encounter with a D/M product, so I may likely not know all the setup tricks, but still... Any tips on how to overcome the above problems are welcome.

By the way, this is the first subjective "review" I have seen for the new Denon 800 series.

Hopefully it isn't the intention of the poster to damn the entire series as being "lacking in bass" compared to a Yamaha, when there is no subwoofer and almost certainly sub-optimal configuration.

 

[delta76]

By the way, this is the first subjective "review" I have seen for the new Denon 800 series.

Hopefully it isn't the intention of the poster to damn the entire series as being "lacking in bass" compared to a Yamaha, when there is no subwoofer and almost certainly sub-optimal configuration.

I have no experience with both but the consensus is MultEQ XT32 >> YPAO, and most people would prefer Dirac to both.
It seems the poster was familiar with YPAO and unhappy with learning curve of Audyssey, especially out of the box.

 

[voodooless]

I have no experience with both but the consensus is MultEQ XT32 >> YPAO, and most people would prefer Dirac to both.
It seems the poster was familiar with YPAO and unhappy with learning curve of Audyssey, especially out of the box.

What version of YPAO though? The YPAO R.S.C should be miles better and should do compared to what Dirac does, or even better. It even computes the angles and heights of the speaker positions. Sadly, little real information on what the actual results are te be found.

 

[delta76]

What version of YPAO though? The YPAO R.S.C should be miles better and should do compared to what Dirac does, or even better. It even computes the angles and heights of the speaker positions. Sadly, little real information on what the actual results are te be found.

I have no idea, that was from a few polls I have seen. I'm still using a very old version of Audyssey- playing the waiting game, would be interested to try YPAO R.S.C if it is as good as you said

 

[KMO]

If you select subwoofer as none can you still select LFE+main or do those subwoofer options go away?

My understanding was that this option was for when you do have a subwoofer only, and it means that any LFE channel information and any bass managed signal below the crossover for small speakers would be duplicated on the mains and the subwoofer.

That was also my understanding.

I've just double-checked on my old Denon AVR-4308 using REW test signals, to make sure I'm not just another person talking bollocks on the Internet.

And I can confirm:

* Yes, the "Subwoofer" option vanishes if you have no subwoofer, so you can't set "LFE+Main".
* With no subwoofer, L+R are forced to large.
* The LFE is sent to L+R.
* Bass from other Small channels is sent to L+R.

(And in the service manuals for it you can see there's a radical gain structure rework to allow for all these extra high-level signals going to L+R - there's a clear distinction between "subwoofer no" and "subwoofer yes" modes for L+R, including an extra 6dB gain circuit switched in after the DAC).