Basic question!

[Zek]

would the following specs work?

No.
The amplifier has no "ohms". This mark on the amplifier represents the minimum speaker impedance the amplifier can receive.
You cannot connect a 3 ohm speaker to an amplifier capable of receiving speakers at least 8 ohms. You'll burn the amp.

 

[Zek]

Connect negative to left chennel and positive to right!

No way, you'll fry the amp.

 

[Finn_<77]

No.
The amplifier has no "ohms". This mark on the amplifier represents the minimum speaker impedance the amplifier can receive.
You cannot connect a 3 ohm speaker to an amplifier capable of receiving speakers at least 8 ohms. You'll burn the amp.

But Normally if you Bridge a speaker to amp with 8 Ohms, you would have 4 Ohms going to the Speaker/Woofer?!

 

[Finn_<77]

No way, you'll fry the amp.

really. oh dear I thought that was the way to do it!
so does the amp need to be compatible with Bridging?
feel stupid now!, I did read that that is possible though!
Thanks for telling me!!!

 

[Zek]

But Normally if you Bridge a speaker to amp with 8 Ohms, you would have 4 Ohms going to the Speaker/Woofer?!

No, that won't work like this. You cannot bridge NAD 302, because there are not bridge circuit in it.

 

[Finn_<77]

Ok

 

[sergeauckland]

You can bridge any stereo amplifier that doesn't already use a BTL by using a transformer, or the balanced output of a suitable preamp, or the balanced inputs of the power amp. I accept however, that without some electronics knowledge it's not just a case of flipping a switch.

S

 

[Zek]

I accept however, that without some electronics knowledge it's not just a case of flipping a switch.

That's the point.

 

[Finn_<77]

Ok, Sorry for all these questions!
I build my own Speakers last year but at that time I did not now very much about Hi-Fi and rest!
that's how I managed to to Buy a pair of low end Drivers that had a lot more Power than the Amp I owned!
This has improved a little bit, because of the Sony STR-GX25 that I Bought recently.
But still not what I need! (Sony Amp: 50W/ch into 8Ohm. My Speakers: 200W/ch into 8Ohm!)
so I had a look and I found this:

https://www.behringer.com/Categorie...fiers/Portable/KM750/p/P0BRI#googtrans(en|en)

Would that do the Trick?!

My Speakers:

Two Way.
Tweeter: 25W/ch into 8Ohm
Woffer: 200W/ch into 8Ohm

 

[Zek]

You are on totally wrong way.
How big is your listening room?
Speakers don't have a power, this watts are max input they can handle.
What for will be Behringer profi power amp?

 

[Finn_<77]

My room is:
18 square meters

 

[Finn_<77]

This is a link with Speks of the woofer in my Speaker:

http://lautsprecher-technik.com/Spe...B-10-inch-Ohm-Replacement-Woofer-Speaker.html

 

[Zek]

Your Sony has enough power for the size of your room and the sensitivity of your speaker.

 

[watchnerd]

I would ask the august membership of this forum, if they would agree with the following proposition.

"Putting tubes on digital equipment, is one of the stupidest things, I can think of"

I think this applies to the OP link but I also think it applies to very high priced things that do the same thing.
Like ModWright tube conversions for Oppo especially in light of how well the Oppo (200 series) did in Amir's testing.
Or Lampizator and his gear.
I started out with tube gear in the sixties. I was glad to be rid of them. Even my MacIntosh MC75 s.

It seems doubly stupid with wireless protocols and bluetooth....I would think the chance of RFI with exposed tubes and a Bluetooth receiver crammed in the same box next to each other would be high.

Unless the tubes aren't actually doing anything important, which seems fairly likely given the power supply / size / cost of the Nobsound.

 

[watchnerd]

This is a link with Speks of the woofer in my Speaker:

http://lautsprecher-technik.com/Spe...B-10-inch-Ohm-Replacement-Woofer-Speaker.html

My Speakers:

Two Way.
Tweeter: 25W/ch into 8Ohm
Woffer: 200W/ch into 8Ohm

Are you saying you built a 2-way with a 10" woofer + a tweeter?

That's not usually a recipe for a good design, because the 10" woofer will start beaming right in the middle of the midrange (~800-900hz).

At what frequency did you set the crossover between the woofer and the tweeter?

 

[Finn_<77]

Are you saying you built a 2-way with a 10" woofer + a tweeter?

That's not usually a recipe for a good design, because the 10" woofer will start beaming right in the middle of the midrange (~800-900hz).

At what frequency did you set the crossover between the woofer and the tweeter?

The crossover is set at 3khz. (Link: https://www.avsl.com/product/900.591UK-2-way-crossovers Model: 900.591UK.)
But the Woofer can go up to 9khz!

yes it is a Woofer + Tweeter!

 

[Finn_<77]

But I agree, The Woofer does not sound that good wenn doing something else than Bass!
was pretty cheep to!

So do you mean it could be a Idea to add a Mid range Driver!?

 

[watchnerd]

The crossover is set at 3khz. (Link: https://www.avsl.com/product/900.591UK-2-way-crossovers Model: 900.591UK.)
But the Woofer can go up to 9khz!

yes it is a Woofer + Tweeter!

It's not really usable to 9khz.

Because of it's large diameter relative to the higher frequencies, the woofer will start beaming at around 800-900 Hz, which means you will have a big hole in the in-room response curve for about 1.5 octaves (e.g. 1 khz - 3 khz).

 

[watchnerd]

But I agree, The Woofer does not sound that good wenn doing something else than Bass!
was pretty cheep to!

So do you mean it could be a Idea to add a Mid range Driver!?

Yes, a mid range would be a good idea. Or get a smaller woofer.

10" 2-ways speakers are rare for very good reasons.

 

[Finn_<77]

Ok!

Mid range Driver:
https://www.daytonaudio.com/index.p...100p-8-4-reference-paper-midwoofer-8-ohm.html

Or a mid range with lese low range?