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Audyssey's Next Generation of Room Correction (MultEQ-X)

Are you a current Denon/Marantz AVR Owner and if so what do you think of Audyssey's MultEQ-X?

  • I'm a current AVR owner. $200 price is acceptable. I've already purchased it.

  • I'm a current AVR owner. $200 price is acceptable. I’m willing to spend the money once I learn more.

  • I'm a current AVR owner. $200 price is too high. Anything lower is better.

  • I'm not a current Denon/Marantz AVR owner. $200 price is acceptable.

  • I'm not a current Denon/Marantz AVR owner. $200 price is too high. Anything lower lower is better.

  • I'm a current AVR owner. $200 price is acceptable, but I don't like the restrictive terms. Wont buy.

  • I'm not an owner. $200 price is acceptable, but I don't like the restrictive terms. Wont buy.

  • Other (please explain).


Results are only viewable after voting.
If EQ and bass management are sorted and you reached max SPL levels that are still not good enough for you, could buy more subs or reposition existing ones closer to MLP. For every meter you will gain some 3-4dB. Near-field subs hit harder and even though your frequency response might suffer, that might be a fair trade off to avoid additional subs.
 
This is my Music Only REW measurement
I see a lack of output in the critical 20-40 Hz range. Shoot for something like a 6 dB slope from 100 Hz on down to the 20-30 Hz range, where it crests and starts to reduce below that. Without that, the impact of LFE in movies and also the weight of music will be muted.

My system peaks between 20-30 Hz and is -6 dB at 11.5 Hz with the vented subs and I think it's perfection for all content. As long as your crossover is 80 Hz or below (I choose 60, would probably prefer 70) your system will retain clarity in the 100-200 Hz area and avoid bloat.

Otherwise it looks nice and it's good to see you have room issues sorted.
 
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I spent a considerable amount of time (a few years) thinking that, all the while trying these different sealed subs, researching, and reading from others who took a similar journey. When I wasn't getting satisfaction, I threw a Hail Mary and got the FV15HP2's.

It's not that I wasn't happy with sound quality or output under normal circumstances. I wanted something that could do 6dB over what I normally needed and therefore with the port assist, hit harder and achieve the LFE moments I was after with much less strain. Woofer excursion and distortion are lower. All the while not giving up much, if any, sound quality. I'm convinced the only difference with sealed subs is the psychoacoustic effect of perceiving less of the really low bass which gives the perception of overall "tight" bass. But the trade-off you get for saving floor space is more strain at the low end as the subs hit their limits. I find getting the balance right for music and movies a lot easier now since the low end is just "there" and all I have to do is get my sub integration right and not think about house curves, at least not in the small rooms I work with that have loads of reinforcement. Now the big LFE scenes hit harder and they do so effortlessly, while my music sounds the same, or slightly better. I would say my music improved by 10% while movies improved 50%.

I am not saying you need to rush to replace your subs. What you have is great. And especially because you should be able to get music and movies sounding amazing with only one set of settings. I always did.
I appreciate you sharing your process. What I showed in REW was my music settings and for my room and room gain and real life perception of what is enough and what is too much bass for music after months of testing and tweaking. Ironically, or not so ironically given the quality of the F226Be, a simply flat - no curve, no target adjustment over the initial MultiEQ-X calculation at all (besides disabling cut off and auto-leveling, and adding headroom). As I mentioned, for movies, I'm now playing with a -0.5 tilt which is getting me there. Other things I will try again are Dynamic EQ and I also realized that my subs have Extension Filters, Damping and Frequency. I realize that I have both subs set for the recommended music setting of High damping and 12 frequency. The Damping settings are High, Mid, Low and the Frequency settings are 12, 14 and 18. I suppose that if I want the biggest LFE response it would be Low Damping and 18 Frequency. Now what that will do to my music I don't know, but can find out. My subs are the 1000-watt Hypex version. Also, I'm crossing at 100. I've tried 60, 80 and 100 and 100 sounds most natural to me in my room.
 
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Short note. I played around with my flat setting but using Dynamic EQ set to 15. I also adjusted the Rythmik subs to Low Damping and 18 frequency. That sounded pretty good for the lobby scene which is a brilliant test scene because so much is going on. You have to hear the high pitches of the shells and guns hitting the floor, plus the explosions and collapsing plaster, all the same time hearing the clearly defined and fantastic bassline pulsing through that entire sequence. I find that I can only take in so much focused listening in a sitting, so will keep experimenting over some time. P.S. I also realized that I was cutting off the subs at 20. I changed that to 10 and it resulted in about a 2db increase across the board.
 
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I see a lack of output in the critical 20-40 Hz range. Shoot for a 3 to 6 dB slope from 100 Hz on down to the 20-30 Hz range, where it crests and starts to reduce below that. Without that, the impact of LFE in movies and also the weight of music will be muted.

My system peaks between 20-30 Hz and is -6 dB at 11.5 Hz with the vented subs and I think it's perfection for all content. As long as your crossover is 80 Hz or below (I choose 60, would probably prefer 70) your system will retain clarity in the 100-200 Hz area and avoid bloat.

Otherwise it looks nice and it's good to see you have room issues sorted.
Ay yai yai. And how are you getting that slope? I think you mean a negative slope up. Do you have the $200 app? How are you using peq to get there?
 
I also realized that my subs have Extension Filters, Damping and Frequency. I realize that I have both subs set for the recommended music setting of High damping and 12 frequency.
Stick with this IMO & IME. It gets me the tightest and most tactile bass with amazing extension. It also helps prevent bloated sounding bass.

Ay yai yai. And how are you getting that slope? I think you mean a negative slope up. Do you have the $200 app? How are you using peq to get there?
Just the $20 app to facilitate the calibration and implement the speaker filter cutoffs. No PEQ, just DEQ, which implements a variable slope with SPL. Combined with my front/back room placement, that is the result. DEQ is controversial for some, but when used properly, I find it indispensable. I don't recommend using it with brighter speakers, though. They need to be pretty neutral/tame unless you have a way to negate the high-frequency effect. It's fine on my speakers.
 
Stick with this IMO & IME. It gets me the tightest and most tactile bass with amazing extension. It also helps prevent bloated sounding bass.


Just the $20 app to facilitate the calibration and implement the speaker filter cutoffs. No PEQ, just DEQ, which implements a variable slope with SPL. Combined with my front/back room placement, that is the result. DEQ is controversial for some, but when used properly, I find it indispensable. I don't recommend using it with brighter speakers, though. They need to be pretty neutral/tame unless you have a way to negate the high-frequency effect. It's fine on my speakers.
I'm sorry I can't decipher the code IMO and IME that you referenced, can you clarify?. I'm just not a fan of DEQ. I think it colors the sound in my experience but I'm not unwilling to try everything.
 
Thank you! I did not know either. Even though I grew up in the USA, all these abbreviations confound people that have not been here in the last 25 years or so.
Been in the USA for a bit over six decades now (my arrival coincided with my first breath). I knew IMHO; but never would have guessed what IMO and IME was supposed to mean either.
 
Been in the USA for a bit over six decades now (my arrival coincided with my first breath). I knew IMHO; but never would have guessed what IMO and IME was supposed to mean either.
I was concieved in the USA, born in Salzburg, Austria, back in the USA before I was 3 months old. About 6.7 decades ago (I did not notice the change at the time, so I wasn't tricked). But I spent 2001-2018 on Islands in the Indian Ocean, the Western Pacific (close to the equator, from 7 degrees South to 15 degrees North and all around the "Sandbox Zone" & the "Ring of Fire Zone".
I, too, knew IMHO and guessed correctly at the other 2. But I could have just as easily been wrong.
 
I was concieved in the USA, born in Salzburg, Austria, back in the USA before I was 3 months old. About 6.7 decades ago (I did not notice the change at the time, so I wasn't tricked). But I spent 2001-2018 on Islands in the Indian Ocean, the Western Pacific (close to the equator, from 7 degrees South to 15 degrees North and all around the "Sandbox Zone" & the "Ring of Fire Zone".
I, too, knew IMHO and guessed correctly at the other 2. But I could have just as easily been wrong.
I suspect it was your equatorial island time that gave the added insight to figure it out... just being USA-based as my case could be too limiting. :cool:
 
I suspect it was your equatorial island time that gave the added insight to figure it out... just being USA-based as my case could be too limiting. :cool:
Could be.
At any rate, it was fun, interesting & that is where I met the women that became my wife (I have seen that move become a constantly on going train wreck, but in my case, it was a good move for my life).
 
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