Don’t forget ‘listening to test signals instead of music’…Of course, we're not fun! We're a bunch of super hardcore science geeks staring at an AP with our lab coats on all day.
Don’t forget ‘listening to test signals instead of music’…Of course, we're not fun! We're a bunch of super hardcore science geeks staring at an AP with our lab coats on all day.
By simply sticking "Silent Coat" 4mm aluminum backed Butyl constrained layer damping sheet strategically inside the case and on susceptible parts of the mechanism he has achieved the following:
Brilliant.First of all, that is not a proper burn in technique for transports. You can't just leave the player playing random music because there could be serious consequences.
Let's just hope your player isn't ruined.
You need to prepare music material in advance and you have to do it in order. Before you even start playing some music, you need to play 10 minutes of pink noise so that you try to negate the damage of random music playing.
You said that the sound is clinical? Then you need to start with mid bass, so play some 50s Jazz and use only Impulse and Bluenote releases. Think Miles, Coltrane... 60hours
After that you need only 30 to 40 hours of 2000s minimal techno for sub bass.
Now the hard part is to open up those kicks and to solidify the bass and for that you need some 80 hours of drum n bass.
All this is good for the bass, but it will close up some mids, and to reopen them, you must play 40 hours of male crooners from 40s to 60s like Sinatra, Dean Martin, Early Bennet... But please, no Michael Buble or you will mess up the imaging.
Now finally for silky smooth upper mids and highs you can play modern jazz female vocals like Nicki Parrott, Emilie-Claire Barlow and similar. 40 hours will do it.
The important note is that you can't just let the player play without you listening or you will develop something which is called the Cold Burn and that will mean that your player would be unburninable anymore.
Also, you should own original CDs of the material, but play only the burned copies because it will burn in the player without wearing out the motor. And please, use only 8x burn speed for CDs, not the 16X or you will cause overburn.
Good luck!
Is there something wrong with that?Don’t forget ‘listening to test signals instead of music’…
Ha ha.Even though a CD transport operates largely in the domain of ones and zeroes it would appear that resonance and vibration can play havoc with the sound quality.
The gentleman who owns this example has found the answer to the horrific and destructive power of these unwanted physical assaults.
View attachment 410236
By simply sticking "Silent Coat" 4mm aluminum backed Butyl constrained layer damping sheet strategically inside the case and on susceptible parts of the mechanism he has achieved the following:
"Immediately sounding better already from power up in terms of solidity, soundstage depth, separation and detail.
The sound is bigger, clearer and projects better. Speaking of detail, the player sounds more relaxed, but more detail is coming through?
It's like it has more time to play music, things sounding more 'right' in terms of timbre and timing."
Link
You can thank me later.
Bumping up this thread as I have the exact same feeling about my 6000CDT as the OP - bright, thin, semi harsh sounding, very fatiguing. I mitigated this with a Hagerman tube buffer and a Schitt EQ and got it to where it now sounds great (through my Pontus II) but now I'm wondering if I'm just masking a turd and should move on? Curious to hear what the OP went with if they're still out there? Or if anyone can suggest what a good significant step up in sound quality would be from the 6000CDT? And please no comments of "they all sound they same..." because they truly do not.
If it sounds good, it is good. It sounds like you used a reasonable approach to adjusting the tone to taste. Don't mess with success, etc.it now sounds great (through my Pontus II) but now I'm wondering if I'm just masking a turd and should move on?
And you have cryogenic treatment available (for a price) for audio cables, though neither burn or deep freeze will affect sound in the slightest.You even have retailers, manufacturers offering burn in service for audio cables!
Bumping up this thread as I have the exact same feeling about my 6000CDT as the OP
As long as you keep thinking like that you're going to continue having bad sound.And please no comments of "they all sound they same..." because they truly do not.
Most likely you are also wrong about your tube amp having a specific sound(I have a Rogue Audio tube integrated amp so my system is set up for semi warmth
www.audiosciencereview.com
Just have a think about your second point ... this is a digital transport, there's nothing analogue and no actual music. The data being transferred contains the instruction that a DAC will use to reconstruct an analogue signal. If the transfer is bit-perfect (no change to the data) then there is no possible impact on e.g. tone.Thanks for the comments everyone, lots to chew on:
- The concept that I'm going into the listening biased has merit, but not in this instance, the sound is indeed sharp and bright - this is in comparison to my analog system (I have a Rogue Audio tube integrated amp so my system is set up for semi warmth but I'd say the Rogue isn't the warmest tube amp going). For reference, my analog rig is sounding ideal (tube phono preamp too). Before doing a deep dive $-wise into acquiring my present analog system, I listened to CDs primarily (though my system then wasn't to the level it is now) so I believe I know what decent tone is from CDs.
- I understand the argument that a CDT is not a complicated unit per se, so there won't be any difference from one unit to the other. But I suggest that it's more than just the laser/reader. There are caps etc that must effect the tone if designed in such way. If not, why would anyone pay more than the cost of the 6000CDT? There are some VERY pricey transports out there, that I'm sure folks on this Forum own... why pay more? I can't be just for the loader/tray differences?
Anyway, I'm not arguing these points, just volleying them out for clarification/discussion. Bottom line is with the right CD, the digital system now with the EQ and tube buffer sounds great - so if I stay pat with the help of comments here I'm happy to save money, time and effort.
One additional note I've found now that I'm spending time with CDs again on a high end / resolving system - the average off-the-shelf CD doesn't sound very good! I've got a number of audiophile CDs and those sound great. I'd say in my informal experience the average LP is way better sounding than the average CD (mastering, source material etc are generally much better on LPs).
You know... one think is talking about what do you or anyone else like the most and another one is talking about fidelityThanks for the comments everyone, lots to chew on:
- The concept that I'm going into the listening biased has merit, but not in this instance, the sound is indeed sharp and bright - this is in comparison to my analog system (I have a Rogue Audio tube integrated amp so my system is set up for semi warmth but I'd say the Rogue isn't the warmest tube amp going). For reference, my analog rig is sounding ideal (tube phono preamp too). Before doing a deep dive $-wise into acquiring my present analog system, I listened to CDs primarily (though my system then wasn't to the level it is now) so I believe I know what decent tone is from CDs.
- I understand the argument that a CDT is not a complicated unit per se, so there won't be any difference from one unit to the other. But I suggest that it's more than just the laser/reader. There are caps etc that must effect the tone if designed in such way. If not, why would anyone pay more than the cost of the 6000CDT? There are some VERY pricey transports out there, that I'm sure folks on this Forum own... why pay more? I can't be just for the loader/tray differences?
Anyway, I'm not arguing these points, just volleying them out for clarification/discussion. Bottom line is with the right CD, the digital system now with the EQ and tube buffer sounds great - so if I stay pat with the help of comments here I'm happy to save money, time and effort.
One additional note I've found now that I'm spending time with CDs again on a high end / resolving system - the average off-the-shelf CD doesn't sound very good! I've got a number of audiophile CDs and those sound great. I'd say in my informal experience the average LP is way better sounding than the average CD (mastering, source material etc are generally much better on LPs).
Just have a think about your second point ... this is a digital transport, there's nothing analogue and no actual music. The data being transferred contains the instruction that a DAC will use to reconstruct an analogue signal. If the transfer is bit-perfect (no change to the data) then there is no possible impact on e.g. tone.
One to get your head around
MOST of the "audiophile community" is nuts!Understood, so why do folks spend the big bucks on say an Audio Note transport?
The salesman in the hi end audio store is an expert at manipulating your mindset and in most cases does not have your best interests at heart - so he persuades you to buy the most expensive item. After a time he starts to believe his own BS . , , and the sincerity then really shines throughUnderstood, so why do folks spend the big bucks on say an Audio Note transport? Or why does the Audiolab 9000CDT (at nearly 3x the price) exist? It can't all be "snake oil" surely?
Because people lie to themselves. They always have and always will.Understood, so why do folks spend the big bucks on say an Audio Note transport? Or why does the Audiolab 9000CDT (at nearly 3x the price) exist? It can't all be "snake oil" surely?