• WANTED: Happy members who like to discuss audio and other topics related to our interest. Desire to learn and share knowledge of science required. There are many reviews of audio hardware and expert members to help answer your questions. Click here to have your audio equipment measured for free!

Audio-Technica ATH-R70x Review (Headphone)

Rate this headphone:

  • 1. Poor (headless panther)

    Votes: 19 8.6%
  • 2. Not terrible (postman panther)

    Votes: 92 41.6%
  • 3. Fine (happy panther)

    Votes: 66 29.9%
  • 4. Great (golfing panther)

    Votes: 44 19.9%

  • Total voters
    221
I am using a Topping A50s, it is nowhere close to maxing out, even at single ended and low gain setting
Yeah you are in perfect zone here i was just checking
But all in all i have it and it seems pretty good with me i dunno have you checked any EQ profiles?
 
I just got myself a pair from amazon. my initial impresions is that vocals are less forward than I expected by looking at the curve (not a complain) and while instrument separation is pretty good the soundstage is narrower than I hoped. they got lesser resolution than my HD 660s but the sound signature is more balanced in the R70x, making classical and EDM feel fuller sounding (I finally hear some sub-bass, compared to the hd 660s) yet somewhat flat and boring. my main complain with the sound is that in the upper mid range (I Think) or lower treble something make them feel quite a bit shouty and more accute than I like.

the wing system turned out to fit me really well (keep in mind that I have a buzz cut, the clamp preassure is higher than I expected but not to a degree that make them unconfortable.

I am still on the fence about returning them. if I do so I would proabbly get some dt 1990 pro which I am told are very receptive to EQ

btw, I am not sure if my R70x came brand new. they smell new and the pads don't looked worn but I am worried about the box coming without any kind of sealing tape whatsover. is that how all you guys got them too? also some parts of the chasis of the cup "look" degraded by age but I am not sure if that is just the regular finish of that material. any comment regarding this would be highly apreciated

Hello. The vocals on the r70x aren't forward at all i agree with you on that about this headphone. The pads should have a chemical smell to them, that is the foam and that is normal. There are no seals on this box at all but the box does come with a clear plastic bag around it. The plastic near the swiveling cup is supposed to look 'aged' if you want to call it that and not have a flat color, this is normal. The swiveling of the cups should be slightly firm and not super loose. There is no sealing tape on these boxes. I listen to Jazz and Classical and this headphone is very very good for both of these genres.
 
Last edited:
hello guys, i just registered and it's my first post here. thank you amirm for the extensive reviews!
so this ath-r70x is my first nicer headphone, coming from a corsair headphone. so far its night and day better (as expected) and doesn't feel like i'm wearing anything because it's so light!

so i was looking for a dac\amp for this headphone and have read many suggestions and reviews on this topic but i still can't get a definite answer to make my decision. i'm a bit confused at what exactly the measurement i should be looking at when searching for amps. i saw many dac/amp list their spec with mW at 32 and 300ohm, not sure how this translates into 470ohm r70x, i also looked at vrms output.

here i put 1000 ohm into the calculator because amir said it peaked at 1000ohm: r70xcalc
from the data at 110db, i can get away with many cheaper option even portable dongle dacs with balanced 4vrms output like hidizs s9 but is this really enough? would there be any difference between dongle and desktop dac/amp? some said more soundstage idk if it's true. is there any advantages having more power than this? what is the minimum to get the best out of this headphone? i'm not loaded and don't plan to spend more than what i spent on this headphone ($200) my ideal is the cheapest i can get just enough to power my r70x to its full capability so i don't miss anything, is this realistic or should i increase my budget?

my use case would be desktop, sourced from my pc. currently i'm using lineout from motherboard (~1-2vrms?) and listen at 50-80% windows volume. would be nice if its usb powered (less cables) but i don't mind connecting power adapter, though i prefer dac/amp combo instead of stack. i can make cable too, so balanced/not isn't an issue. not too worried with noise as long as its inaudible.

some insight would be very appreciated! what amps do you guys use for this headphone?
 
Fiio K7 is $199 and has ridiculous amounts of power, would have enough power for anything you might get in the future either.

R70X sounds good with a balanced cable (~$25) out of a Qudelix 5K ($109) too, IMO, which is a more portable solution. I can't really put my finger on whether it "needs" the extra power, I suspect not really. I never go over 1V even with quiet source stuff and -6dB EQ, and usually quite a bit below that, and it does up to 4V... so I suspect really it's plenty.
Sensitivity is in the range of 102-104dB/Vrms, this would suggest the Qudelix would do up to 114-116dB at full power balanced (4V). Certainly I never go that far.

One consideration is by the time you get that and the cable, you are almost at desktop amp territory.

A cheaper 4V dongle without the BT or app/EQ function would be the Truthear Shio at $69. It's very good and also seems to drive them fine, but the Qudelix is a really great device for the app/EQ/BT functionality.

Voltage is usually most relevant at 470Ω as most amps will not clip at that high impedance and so the voltage will define the power. At lower impedances the power in watts is relevant as many amps will clip before they reach their maximum voltage.

waHHmOj.jpg
 
Voltage is usually most relevant at 470Ω as most amps will not clip at that high impedance and so the voltage will define the power. At lower impedances the power in watts is relevant as many amps will clip before they reach their maximum voltage.
thank you very much for your quick reply and suggestion, i haven't heard of this before, that really helps!

i'm not really looking to buy other gear, comfort is #1 priority for me and if i can get a good sound then i'll be happy with that, i will probably use this headphone until it breaks :D so fiio k7 might be a little overkill if portable dac/amp can deliver similar performance for r70x. truthear shio looks like a really good value at that price, since i EQ on my pc that could be an option. i will look around and see if there are other 4v+ dac/amp options, what i really need is reliable plug and play software for windows, and maybe the most power output i can get. thanks again!
 
Hi everybody,
I'm making balanded cable for ATH-R70x. Now in the middle of working, I'm a little concerned, because when I was looking for connection scheme (xlr 4 pin to double trs connectors), I found answer at the bottom of audio technica page in q&a section, that these headphones aren't balanced. So what is the truth? There is a lots of "balanced" cables auctions on the internet, but is it really working in ballanced way? If yes, then how solden the connections between 4pin xlr and double trs? My dac is Aune S6.
Thanks in advance.

https://www.audio-technica.com/en-us/ath-r70x
obraz_2023-08-02_150534020.png


My work till now
IronHrt_20230802_150809_lmc_8.4.jpg
 
@dawid This just means that they don't sell a balanced cable. Or they may be saying you can't adapt the stock cable, which is also true, you can't adapt a single ended cable to balanced.

Any headphone that takes two separate wires to each cup by definition, you can make balanced, balanced is just two distinct wires to each transducer and how can you not have that if the two cups aren't connected to each other across the headphone? The only headphones you have issues wiring balanced are single sided entry headphones, where there are only three wires going in. If the two cups are independently wired, you must have an independent + and - and so you can make them balanced.

The distinct thing that the R70X does, with the stock cable, is it wires the stereo signal through to both sides, all three pins on the TRS are connected both sides, so you can connect the R and L either way around. It's a 6-wire cable rather than the usual 4 with just the grounds joined in the jack, this one, the left and right also go to both sides cups and are joined in the jack (or the Y split, but I suspect, the jack).

You CAN replace with a balanced cable, but you lose this function, as with the balanced cable the grounds are now distinct, you have a L- and R- going to different places. So the balanced cable has an actual left and right side, make sure to mark this, and you need to connect it correctly to the correct side (you'll actually get no sound if you put them the wrong way around, rather than it inverting, due to the TRS pin configuration).

The wiring of the 2.5mm TRS on the headphone side, the ground/negative for both L/R is the (S)leeve. Right+ = (R)ing. Left+ = (T)ip. I.e. it's standard stereo wiring. I have these here, with a 2.5mm balanced cable, I checked this.

DSC04236.JPG
 
@dawid This just means that they don't sell a balanced cable. Or they may be saying you can't adapt the stock cable, which is also true, you can't adapt a single ended cable to balanced.

Any headphone that takes two separate wires to each cup by definition, you can make balanced, balanced is just two distinct wires to each transducer and how can you not have that if the two cups aren't connected to each other across the headphone? The only headphones you have issues wiring balanced are single sided entry headphones, where there are only three wires going in. If the two cups are independently wired, you must have an independent + and - and so you can make them balanced.

The distinct thing that the R70X does, with the stock cable, is it wires the stereo signal through to both sides, all three pins on the TRS are connected both sides, so you can connect the R and L either way around. It's a 6-wire cable rather than the usual 4 with just the grounds joined in the jack, this one, the left and right also go to both sides cups and are joined in the jack (or the Y split, but I suspect, the jack).

You CAN replace with a balanced cable, but you lose this function, as with the balanced cable the grounds are now distinct, you have a L- and R- going to different places. So the balanced cable has an actual left and right side, make sure to mark this, and you need to connect it correctly to the correct side (you'll actually get no sound if you put them the wrong way around, rather than it inverting, due to the TRS pin configuration).

The wiring of the 2.5mm TRS on the headphone side, the ground/negative for both L/R is the (S)leeve. Right+ = (R)ing. Left+ = (T)ip. I.e. it's standard stereo wiring. I have these here, with a 2.5mm balanced cable, I checked this.

View attachment 302886
Thank you so much for your answer and time checking it for me personally, I really appreciate it. The loss of convenience coming with ATH unconventional solution is no big deal to me. Thanks to your post I can finish my little diy cable, sure it will helps others too.
 
I’ve been using these headphones for a couple months and love them, but the other day I was pretty sick and had them plugged in on the stand next to me, and I managed to cough just about right on them, worried I coulda possibly gotten some moisture in them from my cough it has my OCD going nuts. Should I be worried about this? I think they sound the same but these things are so revealing on bad mixing sometimes I can’t tell if it’s the track or the headphone lol.
 
I’ve been using these headphones for a couple months and love them, but the other day I was pretty sick and had them plugged in on the stand next to me, and I managed to cough just about right on them, worried I coulda possibly gotten some moisture in them from my cough it has my OCD going nuts. Should I be worried about this? I think they sound the same but these things are so revealing on bad mixing sometimes I can’t tell if it’s the track or the headphone lol.
Even if you did get some moisture in them, just let them dry out. If it was days ago should be dry anyway.

Unless you coughed something more substantial (sorry for the image, but you'd still see it) on it I really wouldn't worry. Any artifacts on music are almost certainly on the track.
 
I’ve been using these headphones for a couple months and love them, but the other day I was pretty sick and had them plugged in on the stand next to me, and I managed to cough just about right on them, worried I coulda possibly gotten some moisture in them from my cough it has my OCD going nuts. Should I be worried about this? I think they sound the same but these things are so revealing on bad mixing sometimes I can’t tell if it’s the track or the headphone lol.
Unless you threw up on them and purposefully drove it into every crevice, then I suppose you'll be alright!
 
Even if you did get some moisture in them, just let them dry out. If it was days ago should be dry anyway.

Unless you coughed something more substantial (sorry for the image, but you'd still see it) on it I really wouldn't worry. Any artifacts on music are almost certainly on the track.
Yeah I bought these things for gaming mostly cause of how well the imaging is, once I started using them for music it’s like I can hear flaws in the track and it triggers my OCD thinking it is something wrong with the cans, like wondering why I’m hearing vibrato with certain vocals, and distortion on certain tracks all of a sudden lol. Coming from other gear that is not this analytical plays tricks on you lol.
 
I have thicker pads on mine, use them for mixing and they are very comfortable and my mixes translate really well. Great headphones for this purpose.
 
I have had a pair of these for many years. They replaced Sennheiser HD600. Recently I thought I would upgrade with Hifiman Sundaras. Well, these have the Sundaras totally beat as far as I am concerned.
These are fun, dynamic with a nice bass. They also fit my ears perfectly so they are great in terms of comfort. I guess I will use these till they disintegrate.
 
How do these compare against the HD 650?
They are quite similar tonally, perhaps as my HD6XX has worn pads which brings back the upper mids on that. In fact subjectively they sound like they have less "veil" and more detail than the HD6XX does.

The soundstage and imaging is much better on the R70X, the HD6XX is very closed in and left/right.

Fit is quite different, the R70X is very light but has small round cups that sort of sit on top of the ears, while the HD650 has oval cups and clamps more. R70X is quite a bit more comfortable for me, but others don't get on with the "on ear" system or the sprung flap headband system.

I think the R70X is better, but the HD6XX is usually cheaper. Tonally they are very similar, but the R70X does it better. It's supposedly inspired/based on the HD600/HD650, it's very different from most of Audio-Technica's other headphones.

Anytime neutral sound and a sub-$400 price figure in the same discussion, headphone enthusiasts will instinctively point you toward Sennheiser’s long-tenured and universally respected HD 600. It’s no overstatement to say that the R70x are basically Audio-Technica endeavoring to build its own version of the 600s. When I spoke with engineers inside the Japanese company, one of them cited the Sennheiser HD 650 — a close sibling of the 600 — as his all-time favorite headphones, and it was apparent that Audio-Technica measures itself against its bigger German rival.
 
I can not understand two things, first why people vote on something they did not own or experienced themselves, and second why anyone votes on how comfortable they are, this is extremely subjective. On Gearsnobs it is expected, but here...

I understand that the frequency response is not everything, but this is one of the best performing open back headphones measured here, with so many others being much more expensive with some clear problems with their frequency graph.

What would be your best option when it comes to frequency response and distortion only, let's say up to 1000?
 
I'm not sure that comfort is totally subjective. After decades owning HD580s and putting up with their clamping, one of the things that tempted me to try the r70 was the consensus that they were lighter and less squeezy.

Which was the case in practice.

I agree that the R70 'measure' better than far more expensive headphones, but I find even less agreement over FR than comfort so I'm not sure how much that matters. IMHO, EQ is so simple these days that raw response is less important than in the past, but I also think this risks becoming a cop out for headphone designers who seem to expect consumers to do the hard work for them.

I've owned r70s for a couple of years now. I find them more comfortable than the HDxxx, more accurate out of the box and more open. Not vastly, but enough.

I either prefer either to anything I heard from other more expensive phones or don't think the differences are worth the cost. Switching EQ presets on Roon, for example, makes a far more obvious difference.

For me, the R70s (and the HDxxx before them) hit the sweet spot above which diminishing returns really kick in. Given I think diminishing returns kick in faster and earlier with headphones I feel no urge to shell out big bucks the way I have with my speakers.
 
Back
Top Bottom