DSJR
Master Contributor
Do you remember the thread earlier this year about getting a pair of LSXs fixed?
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Audio Smile LBM Monitor Review
- Thread starter amirm
- Start date
DSJR
Master Contributor
I have to politely bite here -
Sure, compared to limited or tight-a**ed domestic equivalents and of course in particular the expensive small speakers out there with 6" or less drivers, the larger Wilson confections will shift a lot of air and give a larger than life presentation. In a suitably large room with highish ceilings with the listener sat 4 - 5m away, the drivers of the largest models may gel a little, smeared up by room reflections, but they're still *only* passive with maybe cruel impedance loads and so on and so on...
I'd suggest that many domestic dealers haven't a clue as to the best of what's out there, staying with high profit-high cachet products with a spell woven around them (my current beef is TonTraega speaker stands in Europe costing a grand or more for some black painted bits of wood stuck together and slivers of veneer to level them on an uneven floor - these blasted things are revered in some quarters and even 'the H word' speaker maker is picturing their speakers sat on them, not that their current market minds spending so much it seems).
Apologies for the rant above.
Everyone uses bookshelf speakers on stands. It takes the same space on the floor as a floorstander. So to me, if you spend 2500, it must do everything. Not just midrange and treble.$ 2500 per unit here in EU....
Really strange to compare a tiny bookshelf vs the Kef R11 by the way.
By comparing like with like and using two filters "Active Bookshelf / less than $1000" we can get a good idea of the competition check out :
A collection of loudspeakers measurements
www.spinorama.org
I don’t: my bookshelf speakers are on a shelf. So, not everyone.
daniboun
Major Contributor
Absolutely not. I use a 2.1 system with Polk R100s mounted on a wall bracket and an SVS 1000 pro subwoofer.
I spent 700€ on this setup and I find it better, with appropriate acoustic correction than most of the floorstanding speakers I have owned (some at more than 6K€)
I’ll reply to a few more questions that have come up:
Amplifier power
The LBM uses four identical amplifier channels, each rated at 50 watts. However, the power supply is rated for 90 watts continuous (I’ve tested it up to 110 watts before protection cuts in). I’ve chosen to specify it this way because, in any active speaker, how that 90 watts is distributed between drivers depends on the program material. Quoting both the amplifier channel ratings and the shared PSU capability seems the most transparent approach - and it’s how most manufacturers present their specs.
In a recent power consumption test with “loud” music (Blink 182, Limp Bizkit, Ice Cube) at full volume, where driver protection was starting to engage, I measured around 4A RMS at 15V total current draw. Without protection, the amps can drive the woofer voice coil into the back plate - which I’d say confirms there’s plenty of headroom, and also why I implemented limiting in the first place.
That said, these are not indestructible. The woofer is very robust, but sustained high SPL can lead to heat build-up in the tweeter and eventual ferrofluid degradation. If it starts to sound distorted, it’s time to turn it down.
Balanced inputs
There simply isn’t enough space on the LBM’s rear panel for a pair of XLRs, nor enough depth for TRS sockets. Without the heatsink it might have been possible, but not in the current layout.
Digital input
Adding a digital input would require an SPDIF receiver IC to convert to I2S, and more complex input switching. The LBM uses a purely analog input path with a satisfyingly clunky switch. To integrate digital input properly would need logic-controlled switching via the DSP and push-buttons - more complexity, less charm. I preferred the tactile analog approach.
Similarity to Mr. Speaker
The woofer is the same, but everything else is different.
Wi-Fi / Pi Zero
This could make a fun DIY mod - even allowing for room correction filters if you’re familiar with SigmaDSP. The programming header is I2C and clearly exposed. As a commercial product, though, I’m against including IT or networking features in speakers. A well-designed speaker should still be great in 10 years. Wi-Fi modules, apps, and OS support rarely last that long, and maintaining compatibility is a huge burden that even big brands struggle with.
Comparisons
Posting as a manufacturer, I’m aware I have an obvious bias, so I’ll try to be clear what is fact and what is opinion here. But some comparisons being drawn are not really within the same product class.
The LBM is about the size of a DVD boxset - not a small bookshelf. For context:
Within that size class, I’d say the strongest competitor is the Adam D3V. It’s only slightly larger, performs very well, and is more affordable. It’s a truly solid design. That said, there are some key differences:
Objective:
Subjective:
The LBM is hand-built in small batches in Kent, England - not mass-produced from injection molds. They’re meant to be something of a luxury you can enjoy having on your desk every day for years, bringing a smile to your face.
(Just don't ask for white, I swore never again).
Reliability and serviceability
I’m classing this under “subjective,” as it’s based on my experience rather than statistics. I’ve seen quite a few small Class-D amps fail, often due to underrated output filter components (especially SMD capacitors that take the brunt of the PWM switching transients). When these fail, the amp can go into full-power oscillation, risking driver damage and overheating - particularly in compact systems relying on PCB copper for heatsinking. Class A/B designs don’t stress external components the same way. As long as they’re adequately cooled and the electrolytics stay healthy, they tend to run indefinitely.
In keeping with my belief in the right to repair, the LBM DIY manual includes a full circuit schematic, voltage reference points, and troubleshooting notes. I like the idea that someone could pick up a used pair in 30 years’ time, pull the schematics from a corner of the internet, and give them a whole new life.
Amplifier power
The LBM uses four identical amplifier channels, each rated at 50 watts. However, the power supply is rated for 90 watts continuous (I’ve tested it up to 110 watts before protection cuts in). I’ve chosen to specify it this way because, in any active speaker, how that 90 watts is distributed between drivers depends on the program material. Quoting both the amplifier channel ratings and the shared PSU capability seems the most transparent approach - and it’s how most manufacturers present their specs.
In a recent power consumption test with “loud” music (Blink 182, Limp Bizkit, Ice Cube) at full volume, where driver protection was starting to engage, I measured around 4A RMS at 15V total current draw. Without protection, the amps can drive the woofer voice coil into the back plate - which I’d say confirms there’s plenty of headroom, and also why I implemented limiting in the first place.
That said, these are not indestructible. The woofer is very robust, but sustained high SPL can lead to heat build-up in the tweeter and eventual ferrofluid degradation. If it starts to sound distorted, it’s time to turn it down.
Balanced inputs
There simply isn’t enough space on the LBM’s rear panel for a pair of XLRs, nor enough depth for TRS sockets. Without the heatsink it might have been possible, but not in the current layout.
Digital input
Adding a digital input would require an SPDIF receiver IC to convert to I2S, and more complex input switching. The LBM uses a purely analog input path with a satisfyingly clunky switch. To integrate digital input properly would need logic-controlled switching via the DSP and push-buttons - more complexity, less charm. I preferred the tactile analog approach.
Similarity to Mr. Speaker
The woofer is the same, but everything else is different.
Wi-Fi / Pi Zero
This could make a fun DIY mod - even allowing for room correction filters if you’re familiar with SigmaDSP. The programming header is I2C and clearly exposed. As a commercial product, though, I’m against including IT or networking features in speakers. A well-designed speaker should still be great in 10 years. Wi-Fi modules, apps, and OS support rarely last that long, and maintaining compatibility is a huge burden that even big brands struggle with.
Comparisons
Posting as a manufacturer, I’m aware I have an obvious bias, so I’ll try to be clear what is fact and what is opinion here. But some comparisons being drawn are not really within the same product class.
The LBM is about the size of a DVD boxset - not a small bookshelf. For context:
- KEF LSX - 6.7 L
- Neumann KH80 - 6.9 L
- KH120 - 11 L
- Vanatoo Transparent One - 8.5 L
- LBM - 3.3 L
Within that size class, I’d say the strongest competitor is the Adam D3V. It’s only slightly larger, performs very well, and is more affordable. It’s a truly solid design. That said, there are some key differences:
Objective:
- LBM’s distortion above 1 kHz is about 10 dB lower than the D3V’s at 86 dB/1m. (Comparing Erin's and Amir's data).
- LBM does not show the vertical directivity null around crossover that the D3V exhibits.
- D3V includes USB input; LBM does not.
- LBM includes Bluetooth; D3V does not.
Subjective:
The LBM is hand-built in small batches in Kent, England - not mass-produced from injection molds. They’re meant to be something of a luxury you can enjoy having on your desk every day for years, bringing a smile to your face.
(Just don't ask for white, I swore never again).
Reliability and serviceability
I’m classing this under “subjective,” as it’s based on my experience rather than statistics. I’ve seen quite a few small Class-D amps fail, often due to underrated output filter components (especially SMD capacitors that take the brunt of the PWM switching transients). When these fail, the amp can go into full-power oscillation, risking driver damage and overheating - particularly in compact systems relying on PCB copper for heatsinking. Class A/B designs don’t stress external components the same way. As long as they’re adequately cooled and the electrolytics stay healthy, they tend to run indefinitely.
In keeping with my belief in the right to repair, the LBM DIY manual includes a full circuit schematic, voltage reference points, and troubleshooting notes. I like the idea that someone could pick up a used pair in 30 years’ time, pull the schematics from a corner of the internet, and give them a whole new life.
Steven Holt
Addicted to Fun and Learning
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This little speaker warms my heart, to know that there is true craftsmanship and product-passion in the 21st century. I can't buy them this year, but I'm putting them on my short list for next year.
I read through the DIY manual last night. It seems well written and a fun project, not too simple, but not requiring a workshop either. And highlighting in red the steps where people have gone sideways in their assembly...that's a nice touch, and I think better than putting a caution sign over on the side: red is just harder to skip over. Even if not doing the DIY it's fun to see the internals and how the manufacturer assembles it.
I was really stoked to see the schematics and board photos with many test points labeled. Cool stuff!
I was really stoked to see the schematics and board photos with many test points labeled. Cool stuff!
Hello @amirm thank you for the review! Likewise I really appreciate @Maiky76 chiming in with his additions. I wonder if you'd be willing to test his EQ settings and compare with yours. Considering @AudioSmile_UK will be using it in the next shipments, I'd be curious how much of a difference they make. Also, is there any reason to pick the score EQ vs the LW EQ?
somebodyelse
Master Contributor
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Agreed - it's best left to the DIYers who are willing to shoulder the maintenance burden. I saw the header, and was pleasantly surprised to find the schematics in the manual.
Follow the ad money.
OP
- Thread Starter
- #92
My pleasure. What is being incorporated is not either mine or Maiky's. I would test it but I am under so much stress to review other products so not sure I will have time.
I am surprised by how well received these speakers are here in this forum, given their continued downward Horizontal Directivity. I have sworn off speakers that have such result because the tone changes so much with any angle away from being directly pointed to you. I also feel the base extension is not as great of other DSP speakers. These two things are both better served by other speakers that already exist, (i can think of 3 off the top of my head) although they don't have as much personality. I think the speakers are so cool for their size, look, and great feedback in communications with the manufacturer! Just sad to say I won't buy one, even though I would like to.
I also find the Boundary knob moves too high into the frequency range, although maybe I'm not reading that graph correctly. The blue line on page 2 shows a proper sub filter. But the red lines corresponding to the know positions show dB loss well into 500 Hz. I think back to a speaker set that ran the sub up to 250 Hz and I could easily tell where it was placed in the room and I did not like that.
I also find the Boundary knob moves too high into the frequency range, although maybe I'm not reading that graph correctly. The blue line on page 2 shows a proper sub filter. But the red lines corresponding to the know positions show dB loss well into 500 Hz. I think back to a speaker set that ran the sub up to 250 Hz and I could easily tell where it was placed in the room and I did not like that.
So I take your points - to the extent of my limited knowledge. But surely for the intended use as desk top speakers this isn't a problem - when in the use case envisaged? Assuming, that is, you bought the matching adjustable stands, which you obviously would, then possible directivity issues would not be a problem?
I am seriously looking at these plus a sub (another) for when I want to turn it up a little or am listening to anything that wants a bit more bass. Bluetooth aptX and sub out with LF cut out should suit me down to the ground for Quobuz lossless. Rather than, where I was, buying more headphones (with the sound stage issues those bring) plus an amp/streamer.
Could you provide just the name (s) of the three you are thinking about so I can have a look? If they are more than £750/ $1000 then they will not be for me. I have looked at the others that have been mentioned previously but for one reason or another I come back to these. Thanks.
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I think this is just the right product for it's intended use case, i would not try to over extend this . I'll consider sitting 70cm in front of them at my desk as the use case ,pionting at me on their stands .
Subwaffler
Member
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- Nov 27, 2024
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I’ve not heard the LBM but Audiosmile used to make a bookshelf hifi speaker called the Kensai which is one of the best small speakers I have ever heard.
Wonder how VAT and customs are handled now when the UK is not an EU member anymore ?
I'm about to find out
I'm about to find out
daniboun
Major Contributor
Depends on you country but I just ordered another kit from UK to France
VAT : +20 %
Clearance UPS DHL : +10 %
...and ditto the other way. Although handling/clearance is normally a flat £15 or so
Just wonder how , maybe i get a letter from customs or the shipping company for payment of the VAT ?
Was a similar process self importing a Rhythmic subwoofer , probably the only FV15HP in the Nordic .
Was a similar process self importing a Rhythmic subwoofer , probably the only FV15HP in the Nordic .
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