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Ascilab C8C Active Speaker Review

Rate this speaker:

  • 1. Poor (headless panther)

    Votes: 1 0.3%
  • 2. Not terrible (postman panther)

    Votes: 7 2.3%
  • 3. Fine (happy panther)

    Votes: 53 17.6%
  • 4. Great (golfing panther)

    Votes: 240 79.7%

  • Total voters
    301
The C8C is awesome!

Hypex Fusion plate amps use NCore MP amps inside. And Hypex recently released the refreshed NCoreX MP amps, which are slightly better at higher power. I wish the C8C was using the new amps already. Though it would be possible to DIY swap if someone really wants to.


The C8C is using the Hypex FusionAMP FA253 ( 2x250W + 100W DSP ADAU1452 DCC AK4454 192kHz). Based on the old Ncore architecture.
BTW the FusionAMP modules do not have exactly the same frequency response as the NC252mp module :

FusionAMPs frequency response 20Hz - 20kHz
NC252mp frequency response 10Hz - 20Khz

Check here :

Post in thread 'Ascilab C8C Active Speaker Review' https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...-c8c-active-speaker-review.69938/post-2538286
 
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These are Class-D. They will not get hot.
Not to be alarmist in anyway but some D amps like in Audioengine A5 tend to fail because of inadequate cooling. In that case they fixed it for the A5+ model with Amir tested.
 
Not to be alarmist in anyway but some D amps like in Audioengine A5 tend to fail because of inadequate cooling. In that case they fixed it for the A5+ model with Amir tested.
not to be alarmist ;) yes, it's been beaten to death in another thread (with highly anecdotal and partial evidence at best), but let's re-start that discussion for sh*ts and giggles
 
not to be alarmist ;) yes, it's been beaten to death in another thread (with highly anecdotal and partial evidence at best), but let's re-start that discussion for sh*ts and giggles
As made clear, they aren't exactly common. I'd more concerned about possibly hiss from the electronics, that is far more common. I tend to avoid any active speakers for this reason
 
This is a review, listening tests and detailed measurements of the Ascilab active 3-way monitor with DSP and cardioid response. A member was kind enough to let me review his preorder. US Cost is $3,125 each (inclusive of tariff). Pricing varies in different regions.
View attachment 516050
Before, this companies' products had me just sort of glancing at them in the periphery of things in the "powered speaker realm".
Now, I'm actually paying attention to them because they have lived up to my thoughts on what the minimum would be to get me to be interested in changing from passives.
I still find the color options intolerable. The price, while high, seems reasonable for what one gets.
Additional colors, proven longevity, a touch of better 96 DB distortion measurements (perhaps fixed by some amp tweaks or/and their bass module) would put it there for me.
Then there would be the pull of "I feel that I have 'good nuff' & no NEED to change but just WANT better".
It's the first time that has occurred in many, many years.
 
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How warm do those amps get inside this speaker? Will it impact longevity?
After half an hour of playing at very elevated levels, the outside plate was just a bit warm in some area.
 
Not to be alarmist in anyway but some D amps like in Audioengine A5 tend to fail because of inadequate cooling. In that case they fixed it for the A5+ model with Amir tested.

Hypex provides specific recommendations for installing FusionAmps, whether installed vertically or horizontally: the base must have ventilation holes
 
I’ve had C8Cs installed since Wednesday, first on little <1’ step stools and then on 20” stands. I have a few comments.

The tweeter axis in the first position is slightly low, and in the second it is just below ear height (32” vs. ~35”). I am using RCA cables, WiiM Ultra, and Spotify lossless over WiFi.

I used P1 (minimum latency) presets due to using the speakers for TV sound also. P2 is said to be better hifi sound but I didn’t hear much difference.

First of all, this is a truly outstanding speaker, by far the best I’ve ever heard. It does everything well in mid field (7’ish, 4’ from the front wall, toed in) and I mean it sounds perfect. The bass is so clean, loud, and deep I had to check if room correction or the subwoofer was engaged (neither). In a more typical listening situation (about 1’ from the front wall, 10’ equilateral, no toe) the cardioid pattern cannot fix the room modes miraculously on its own. In my smallish living room, without room correction the bass is prominent when it’s closer to the wall. With WiiM auto correction engaged it is great again and I will be diving into Hypex filters and speaker positioning as the next steps. But based on my experience I recommend if possible keep them a few feet away from the wall and toed in.

I didn’t measure the dB or distortion, but when the speaker is as loud as I can stand I didn’t hear any problem at all. It wasn’t even breathing hard. I have never heard a speaker so well behaved at high volume.

There is zero hiss or audible noise of any kind.

The amp does get warm but it is by no means hot. The warmth is partly because the Hypex algorithm is very sensitive and even inaudible noise will keep it from going into standby. I am still figuring this out in the software and it is a chore. I imagine over time it could affect amp life.

Hypex Filter Designer software is unfortunately a requirement. Amir alludes to it above, but it is not optimal. It’s really only acceptable for audio geeks - think REW. It uses a DOS-like interface, is PC-only, and uses only a (supplied) USB-mini cable. For an amp of this reputation and cost I expected much better, like the terrific WiiM interface. After some initial head-scratching it is working and functional.

Overall I am ecstatic to have these wonderful speakers and to be an early adopter. The C8C sound when placed and tuned to the room is unbelievable.
 
I’ve had C8Cs installed since Wednesday, first on little <1’ step stools and then on 20” stands. I have a few comments.

The tweeter axis in the first position is slightly low, and in the second it is just below ear height (32” vs. ~35”). I am using RCA cables, WiiM Ultra, and Spotify lossless over WiFi.

I used P1 (minimum latency) presets due to using the speakers for TV sound also. P2 is said to be better hifi sound but I didn’t hear much difference.

First of all, this is a truly outstanding speaker, by far the best I’ve ever heard. It does everything well in mid field (7’ish, 4’ from the front wall, toed in) and I mean it sounds perfect. The bass is so clean, loud, and deep I had to check if room correction or the subwoofer was engaged (neither). In a more typical listening situation (about 1’ from the front wall, 10’ equilateral, no toe) the cardioid pattern cannot fix the room modes miraculously on its own. In my smallish living room, without room correction the bass is prominent when it’s closer to the wall. With WiiM auto correction engaged it is great again and I will be diving into Hypex filters and speaker positioning as the next steps. But based on my experience I recommend if possible keep them a few feet away from the wall and toed in.

I didn’t measure the dB or distortion, but when the speaker is as loud as I can stand I didn’t hear any problem at all. It wasn’t even breathing hard. I have never heard a speaker so well behaved at high volume.

There is zero hiss or audible noise of any kind.

The amp does get warm but it is by no means hot. The warmth is partly because the Hypex algorithm is very sensitive and even inaudible noise will keep it from going into standby. I am still figuring this out in the software and it is a chore. I imagine over time it could affect amp life.

Hypex Filter Designer software is unfortunately a requirement. Amir alludes to it above, but it is not optimal. It’s really only acceptable for audio geeks - think REW. It uses a DOS-like interface, is PC-only, and uses only a (supplied) USB-mini cable. For an amp of this reputation and cost I expected much better, like the terrific WiiM interface. After some initial head-scratching it is working and functional.

Overall I am ecstatic to have these wonderful speakers and to be an early adopter. The C8C sound when placed and tuned to the room is unbelievable.
this is a really useful feedback - thanks for sharing and congrats! You commented that they often come out of standby, have you been able to identify why or a fix? I agree over time it could impact the amp if not resolved...
 
@pat355 It only goes into standby for about 2 seconds, then the relay clicks and it wakes up again. I believe it can be fixed by setting the sensitivity in the auto sense parameter in HFD. I did about 90m of messing with the software but did not get to that parameter when I had to go do something else. I will be able to work on it again this week and can report back f that's useful.

Other forums like DIYAudio also have a number of posts identifying this as an issue for Hypex amps.

@amirm states that AsciLab has a quick start program underway and it will definitely be welcomed by new owners. Amir has been extremely helpful through the ordering and setup process and I would happily buy more stuff through Tested Audio. So has @AsciLab. I am very confident between them they will fix any startup teething pains.
 
Been listening to music at 80dB at the listening position for over 3 hours.

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Wow, I had never heard of this company before but they sure seem to know how to make some great speakers.

I really like the new low frequency sweep graph. Gives you an idea of how loud a speaker can go before it starts to strain.
 
Probably a really stupid question, but I've always used passive speakers and am not that familiar with active speakers: What input was used to test these active speakers? I assumed the XLR analog input. Are the crossovers digital? If so, then I guess there must be an AD conversion going on if the balanced analog input was used. How would it be best to run these speakers, using their analog or digital inputs?

BTW, great review and great speakers! Great competition to the Genelec 8361A, and far more affordable.
 
Probably a really stupid question, but I've always used passive speakers and am not that familiar with active speakers: What input was used to test these active speakers? I assumed the XLR analog input. Are the crossovers digital? If so, then I guess there must be an AD conversion going on if the balanced analog input was used. How would it be best to run these speakers, using their analog or digital inputs?

BTW, great review and great speakers! Great competition to the Genelec 8361A, and far more affordable.
CleanShot 2026-03-08 at 19.06.30@2x.pngfrom the Hypex FA253 manual, you see how it works

Re using digital vs analog inputs, based on the answer from both AsciLab and @Purité Audio I believe they both said it won't make any difference (I asked the same question back in Dec or January in the long Ascilab speakers thread, you can search there for more info)
 
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Default (measured) on-axis and power average slopes are not very compatible with directivity spectrum. Frequency range with close to constant directivity index should have negative on-axis slope to get suitable slope for PIR and SP. Suitable slope targets for conventional multi-ways are mentioned in 'Multiple Regression Model for Predicting Loudspeaker Preference...' by S. Olive. PIR slope of -1.0 i.e. -0.69 dB/oct. is good 'factory default' target also for concepts closing to constant directivity. Ideal CD has the same slope for on-axis and power averages such as PIR and SP. Slope of 0 dB/oct. would produce too thin sound as CD with low overall directivity such as DI=5...10 dB. Stronger overall directivity with much larger LF radiators are able to challenge this rule of thumb, but probably doesn't enable 0 dB/oct. Has not enabled in practice so far ime.

This EQ produces more suitable slopes with C8C. General tilt of ca. -0.37 dB/oct. and reducing LF power due to omni bass should help overall balance to far field. Near field is different case.
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Result as spinorama.

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Another problem is that directivity changes from omni (DI=0) to cardioid (DI=4.8) from 68 Hz to 200 Hz. That is kinda unavoidable with tiny cardioid speakers, but it happens too rapid and too high. Cardioid covering also mid and upper bass (40...160 Hz) is helpful in practice (without multi-sub or flush-mounted half space system).
 
With WiiM auto correction engaged it is great again and I will be diving into Hypex filters and speaker positioning as the next steps. But based on my experience I recommend if possible keep them a few feet away from the wall and toed in.

Can you share the Room fit result for the Final evaluation in your listening room please ?
 
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